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1、CHAPTERFIFTEENGenderandInternalOrientalisminChinaLouisaScheinOnavisittothenearestcity—Kaili—duringmy1988fieldyearinsouth-eastGuizhou,Iencounteredanunexpectedritual.1Orwasitreallysoun-expected?In1986,anewsix-storybuildinghadbeenconstructedtosupplementthemildewedolderstru
2、cturethatusedtohousethecity’sNo.1GuestHouse.Kailiwas,afterall,thecapitaloftheMiaoandDongAutonomousPrefectureofSoutheastGuizhouprovinceinChina’ssouthwest,anditsmountainousandscenicbutbarelyarableterraininhabitedbyseveralmi-noritygroupsmeantthatitsbesthopeforeconomicdeve
3、lopmentwasthepromotionoftourism.2ThenewhotelcomplexwasdubbedtheNationali-tiesGuestHouse.3Teenagedgirlswererecruitedfromthecountrysidetoworkasreceptionists,waitresses,andchambermaids—andtostageculture.Arepresentativesamplingofdifferentminorities,subgroups,andcostumestyl
4、eshadbeenchosenandeachemployeewastowearherdistinctivehead-dressatalltimes.Regulardutiesincludednotonlytheusualhoteldrudg-erybutalsoanoccasionalposeinfullcostumeforforeigntravelers’cam-eras,andperformancesofsonganddanceforvisitingtourgroups.TheritualIwitnessedonthispart
5、icularday,however,wasanothervari-antofpackagedethnicperformance.Kailihasalsobeenpromotedasasitefordomesticmeetings,andthatdayitwasdelegatestoaregionalconfer-enceofmayorsthatconvenedatthehotel.Thisgroupoflargelymale,ur-banconfereesassembledintheopenparkingareatobegreete
6、dwithaspe-cialformoflocalwelcome.Aglamoroussetofexoticmaidens,adornedincolorfulgarb,serenadedthemwithethnicsong.Inanenactmentofalocalcustomusedtowelcomeguestsfromafarattheentrancetoavillage,dele-gateswentthroughalineinwhichtheyoungwomenpoppedlocaldelica-385386LOUISASCH
7、EINciesstraightintotheirmouthsandinsistedtheydrinkritualwelcomespir-itsoutofthehornsofbulls.4Atfirstglancethisritualseemedanomalousbecauseitwasneitheralo-calvillagepracticenorpropelledbythesimplecommodificationlogicofinternationaltourism.5Yetitwaspartofawidespreadphenome
8、noninthe1980sinvolvingvoraciousdomesticconsumptionofminoritycultures.IchallengeherethecommonassumptionthatChina’spack