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1、SocialIdentitiesVol.17,No.2,March2011,185200RenovatingethnicidentityonRestaurantMakeoverabSeanBrayton*andBradMillingtonabKinesiologyandPhysicalEducation,UniversityofLethbridge,Lethbridge,Canada;HumanKinetics,UniversityofBritishColumbia,Vancouver,Cana
2、da(Received14October2009;finalversionreceived7May2010)Foodcanbeanovelwayofunderstandingandexplainingsomeofthepointedparadoxesofmulticulturalismandthe‘management’ofethnicity.Manystudiesofculinarycultureareattentivetotheexoticizationofethnicityinandthrou
3、ghfoodmedia,whichnowincludesavertiginousarrayofcookbooks,travelliterature,magazinesand,mostimportantforourpurposeshere,televisionseries.AmongvariousprogramsisRestaurantMakeover,apopularCanadianrealityseriesbroadcastonHomeandGardenTelevision(HGTV)aswel
4、lastheFoodNetworkCanada.Ineachepisode,diningexpertsarehiredbystrugglingrestaurateurs(oftenethnic)to‘spiceup’theexistingmenu,‘modernize’thede´corand,byextension,ensurethewelfareofthe(immigrant’s)family.Whiletheseriesisnotexplicitlydirectedatethnicresta
5、urants,itseemstobeincreasinglyinterestedin‘non-white’establishments(i.e.,Mexican,Chinese,Thai,etc.).Thisparticipationinculinarymulticulturalismmaybesymptomaticofwiderpoliticalchangesinimmigrationand‘diversity’inCanada.Basedontheauthorsanalysesofspecif
6、icepisodesthispaperargues,firstly,thegrowinginterestinethniccuisineonRestaurantMakeovercanbereadasa(neo)liberalresponsetoanemergingconservative‘multicultural’agendathatrecognizesmigrantspredominantlyaslaborers(asopposedtocitizens)and,secondly,thatbehi
7、nditsrehearsalofliberalbenevolenceisaskewedsetofpowerrelationsthatauthorizetheexperts’(re)construction,cultivationandcontainmentofethnicity.Keywords:liberalbenevolence;multiculturalism;ethnicauthenticity;foodtelevisionInthethirdseasonofthehittelevisio
8、nprogramSeinfeld,audienceswereintroducedtothecharacterofBabuBhatt,aPakistaniimmigrantandstrugglingrestaurantproprietorplayedbyBrianGeorge.Obsessedwiththequotidian,JerrypartakesintheunderstatedopeningofBabu’sDreamCafe´,amulti-ethnicrestaurantwi