攀岩中不同“侧拉”动作的生物力学对比分析

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1、griptokeepthebodybalanced．Fromthebeginningoftheactiontothemiddle．action，thesupportinglegmovesfromflexiontoextension，thehumanbodycenterofgravitymovesfromdown’righttotheup-left，thebodycenterofgravitymOVeStotheupperleftandbecomes衍awayfromtherockdump．thepullofthearmincreasesandthearmmustusebiggerpo

2、wertothetargetpoint，thusitiseasiertofalloff．2．Atthebeginningofside-pullactionthree，thebodyoftheplayerfacestherocksideways，SOtheoutsideofthesupportinglegshouldbeasclosely嬲possibletotherock，andthefocusshouldbeplacedontherock；whenthebodycenterofgravityshouldbeclosertotherock，thedumpingtorqueissmal

3、l，andthearmwouldberelaxedthearmstrengthtosavestrength．Intheprocessofthesupportinglegbenttotheextension，thebodycenterofgravityisjlastmovingup，itwillnotbetoppedofffromtherock,andthedumpingtorquedoesnotincrease．Withmebodycenterofgravity’smovingup，therightarmCallpulldownsidewhenthebodyissidewaystot

4、herock,theresistingdumpingtorquewillnotbereduced,andthebalanceiseasiertomaintain,whiletheheightofthebodycanbeusedtothetopofthefulcrum．3．Thereasonabilityofthebio—mechanicsoftheside-pulltechnologymanifeststhatwhenthebodyfacestherocksideways，thebodycenterofgravityisclosertotherock,andthedumpingtor

5、queproducedbythegravityissmall；theknee“flexionandextensionwouldnottopoffthebodyawayfromtherockandwillnotincreasethedumpingoftorqueofthegravity；thebodycenterofgravityis11e111"totheconnectionlineofthetwoside-pullkeypoints，andthatalmostdoesnotproducethetorquetoflip，whilethebodycanmaketheothera锄orl

6、egtodomo肥freemovement；thesupportinglegCallaffordalargerbodyweightinthisprocess,thusto姗thestrengthofupperlimbs，anditisadvantageousfortheathletetoclimbandachievegoodresults．KeyWords：rockclimbingtrainingtechnicalanalysisEMGside-pullactionⅥ学位论文原创性声明本人所提交的学位论文《攀岩中不同“侧拉”动作的生物力学对比分析》，是在导师的指导下，独立进行研究工作

7、所取得的原创性成果。除文中已经注明引用的内容外，本论文不包含任何其他个人或集体已经发表或撰写过的研究成果。对本文的研究做出重要贡献的个人和集体，均己在文中标明。本声明的法律后果由本人承担。论文作者(签名)：璞谤辱指导教师确认(签名)：纱，7年，2，月∥日年月日学位论文版权使用授权书本学位论文作者完全了解河北师范大学有权保留并向国家有关部门或机构送交学位论文的复印件和磁盘，允许论文被查阅和借阅。本人授权河北师范大学可以将学位论文的全部或部分内容编入有关数据库