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1、CoutureSewingTechniqueClaireB.ShaefferPrintedintheUnitedStatesofAmerica,2001Thebookwasoriginallypublishedinhardcoverin1993byTheTauntonPress,Inc.Chapter4.EdgeFinishesHems,FacingsandBindingsUnlessfinishedinsomeway,theedgesofagarmentravelandlookincomplete.Theseedges—theneckl
2、ine;theverticalfrontedgesofjackets,coatsandmanyblouses;jacketsandcoats—canbefinishedinconspicuouslyortheycanbecomedistinctive,decorativeelementsofthedesign.Threefinishesareusedextensivelyincouture:hems,facingsandbindings.Thechoiceofedgefinishdependsonmanythings—theshapeof
3、theedgebeingfinished;itspositiononthegarment;thetype,designandfabricofthegarment;currentfashiontrends;andthepreferencesoftheindividualwearerandthedesigner.Forexample,ifthebottomedgeofadressisstraight,itmightbecompletedwithahem,afacingorabinding.Butifthisedgesisasymmetrica
4、l,curved,scallopedorotherwiseunusuallyshaped,itwillneedtobefinishedwithafacing.Evenwhentheedgeisvisuallythesameonthenecklineandhem,thetwodifferentedgesarelikelytorequireslightlydifferentfinishestoaccommodatethecurveatthenecklineandtheweightofthefabricatthehem.Andalthoughi
5、t’sobviousthatatailoredgarmentwouldrequireverydifferentfinishingfromaneveninggown,evensimilardesignsvorkedindissimilarfabricswoulddictatefinishessuitableforeachfabric.Althoughhems,facingsandbindingsarealledgefinishes,eachhasaslightlydifferentfunction.Hemsaregenerallyusedo
6、ntheloweredgesofagarmentorgarmentsection(forexample,asleeve)andmanyhelpthegarmenthangattractivelybyaddingweighttotheedge.Facings,ontheotherhand,areappliedtotheupperandverticaledgesofagarments.Bindingscanbeusedonupper,lowerorverticaledges,butthey’reusedmostoftentoreplacefa
7、cingsratherthanhems.Facingscanbecutasseparatesectionsandsewntothegarmenttofinishcurvedorshapededges.Or,whenusedonedgesthatarestraightoronlyslightlycurved,theycanbenothingmorethanawidehemallowance,inwhichcasethey’recalledextendedfacings.Bothhemsandfacingsarevisibleononlyon
8、eside—usuallytheunderside—ofthegarment.Bindings,bycontrast,areseparatestripsoffabricthatencaseth
