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1、BASICCOASTALENGINEERINGBASICCOASTALENGINEERINGThirdEditionRROBERTM.SORENSENOBERTM.SORENSENDepartmentofCivilandEnvironmentalEngineeringLehighUniversity,Bethlehem,PennsylvaniaLibraryofCongressCataloging-in-PublicationDataAC.I.P.CataloguerecordforthisbookisavailablefromtheLibraryofCongressISBN-10:0-
2、387-23332-6ISBN-10:0-387-23333-4(e-book)ISBN-13:9780387233321ISBN-13:978038723338Printedonacid-freepaper.ß2006SpringerScienceþBusinessMedia,Inc.Allrightsreserved.Thisworkmaynotbetranslatedorcopiedinwholeorinpartwithoutthewrittenpermissionofthepublisher(SpringerScienceþBusinessMedia,Inc.233SpringS
3、treet,NewYork,NY10013,USA),exceptforbriefexcerptsinconnectionwithreviewsorscholarlyanalysis.Useinconnectionwithanyformofinformationstorageandretrieval,electronicadaptation,computersoftware,orbysimilarordissimilarmethodologynowknownorhereafterdevelopedisforbidden.Theuseinthispublicationoftradename
4、s,trademarks,servicemarksandsimilarterms,eveniftheyarenotidentiWedassuch,isnottobetakenasanexpressionofopinionastowhetherornottheyaresubjecttoproprietaryrights.PrintedintheUnitedStatesofAmerica10987654321(SPI/SBA)springeronline.comToRita,Jon,Jenny,Mark,andJohnWithLoveContentsPrefacexi1.CoastalEng
5、ineering11.1TheCoastalEnvironment11.2CoastalEngineering31.3RecentTrends51.4CoastalEngineeringLiterature61.5Summary81.6References82.Two-DimensionalWaveEquationsandWaveCharacteristics92.1SurfaceGravityWaves92.2Small-AmplitudeWaveTheory102.3WaveClassification152.4WaveKinematicsandPressure182.5Energy
6、,Power,andGroupCelerity222.6RadiationStressandWaveSetup302.7StandingWaves,WaveReflection352.8WaveProfileAsymmetryandBreaking382.9WaveRunup442.10Summary472.11References482.12Problems493.Finite-AmplitudeWaves533.1Finite-AmplitudeWaveTheoryFormulation533.2StokesWaves543.3CnoidalWaves613.4SolitaryWav
7、es643.5StreamFunctionNumericalWaves683.6WaveTheoryApplication703.7Summary743.8References743.9Problems764.WaveRefraction,Diffraction,andReflection794.1Three-DimensionalWaveTransformation794.2WaveRefraction80viii/Content
