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1、CHINESELOOKSThispageintentionallyleftblankCHINESELOOKSFASHION,PERFORMANCE,RACESeanMetzgerINDIANAUNIVERSITYPRESSBloomingtonandIndianapolisThisbookisapublicationofInformationSciences—PermanenceofPaperforPrintedLibraryMaterials,IndianaUniversityPressANSIZ39.48–1992.OfficeofSch
2、olarlyPublishingHermanBWellsLibrary350Manufacturedinthe1320East10thStreetUnitedStatesofAmericaBloomington,Indiana47405USALibraryofCongressiupress.indiana.eduCataloging-in-PublicationDataTelephone800-842-6796Metzger,Sean,[date]Fax812-855-7931Chineselooks:fashion,performance,
3、race/SeanMetzger.©2014bySeanMetzgerpagescmAllrightsreservedIncludesbibliographicalreferencesandindex.NopartofthisbookmaybereproducedISBN978-0-253-01247-0(cloth)—ISBNorutilizedinanyformorbyanymeans,978-0-253-01256-2(pbk.)1.Fashion—electronicormechanical,includingChina.2.Fash
4、iondesign—China.photocopyingandrecording,orby3.Popularculture—China.4.Chineseanyinformationstorageandretrievalinmotionpictures.5.China—Racesystem,withoutpermissioninwritingrelations.6.China—Sociallifeandfromthepublisher.TheAssociationofcustoms.I.Title.AmericanUniversityPres
5、ses’Resolu-TT504.6.C5M472014tiononPermissionsconstitutestheonly746.9’20951—dc23exceptiontothisprohibition.2013042016ThepaperusedinthispublicationmeetstheminimumrequirementsoftheAmericanNationalStandardfor12345191817161514Tomymother,RuthMetzger,andhermother,LucyJungThispagei
6、ntentionallyleftblankCONTENTSAcknowledgmentsixIntroduction1PART1•THEQUEUE271CharlesParsloe’sChineseFetish312ScreeningTails60PART2•THEQIPAO1013AnnaMayWongandtheQipao’sAmericanDebut1094ExoticusEroticus,ortheSilhouetteofSuzie’sSlitsduringtheColdWar1255CutfromMemory:WongKar-Wai
7、’sFashionableHomage144PART3•THEMAOSUIT1616AnUnsightlyVision1697UniformBeliefs?1938MaoFunSuits220Epilogue234Notes249Index287viiThispageintentionallyleftblankACKNOWLEDGMENTSFirst,IthanktheeditorialstaffatIndianaUniversityPress,particularlyRe-beccaTolenandSarahJacobi.Theyhavem
8、adethepublicationprocesseffi-cientandtransparent,andourcollaborationhasbeenadeligh
