资源描述：
《闻香识人-香水广告经久不衰的诉求.doc》由会员上传分享，免费在线阅读，更多相关内容在行业资料-天天文库。
1、闻香识人香水广告经久不衰的诉求There'salong-runningtropeinperfumeadvertisingthatperfumespeaks,andwhatitbroadcastsisamessageaboutitswearer.香水广告一个经久不衰的诉求点就是香水能说话，能传递有关香水使用者的信息。Inthe1950s,manyperfumesspokethemessageoffemininesexuality,asubversivemessagethatwasonlysociallyacceptabletobespokensubliminallyandi
2、nvisibly,inperfume.Inthe1950sperfumeadforPrimitif,undertheimageofasultrysuper-vixenwithhalf-partedlipswholookslikeshejustjumpedfromthecoverofapulpnovel,ataglineasks,'Whynotletyourperfumesaythethingsyouwouldnotdareto?'上世纪50年代，许多香水传递的是女性的性感；在当时的社会，这种大胆、具有颠覆性的信息只允许通过香水隐晦地透露一二。当时的Primitif香水广告
3、中就是一个超级惹火的娇艳女郎，樱唇微启，活生生从低俗小说封面中跳出来一样，下面的广告语是："为何不让你的香水把你不敢说的说出来呢？"InGuerlain'sChantd'Aromesadfrom1965,we'retoldthatagreatperfumemustdotwothings:'Itmustexpresssomethingforawomanthatshewouldliketoexpressherself,anditmustbesaidinawaythatcanbeunderstoodbymen.'AndinaNuanceadfrom1978,afewyearsb
4、eforethebig-shouldered1980sfragrancessuchasGiorgioandChristianDior'sPoisonshoutedtheirmessages,womenweretoldtheirperfumeshouldn'tbetoostrongorloud.'Ifyouwanttocapturesomeone'sattention,'itadvised,'whisper.'娇兰(Guerlain)在1965年的"喜悦之歌"(Chantd'Aromes)香水广告告诉我们，一瓶伟大的香水应做到以下两点：必须能表达女人想表达的自己，同时必须能
5、从某种意义上被男人理解。在宽肩盛行的80年代，Giorgio和迪奥(ChristianDior)的"毒药"(Poison)等香水用浓郁的香氛大声地表达，而就在那之前几年，1978年的Nuance广告则告诉女人，香水不应该太强烈或者太夸张。该广告建议称："如果你想要吸引别人的注意力，低语倾诉就好。"Perfumesstill'say'things,ofcourse,butinapost-signaturescentera,whenwomen(andmen)areofferedupwardsof1,000newfragrancesayeartochoosefrom,mostp
6、eopleexpressdifferentthingswiththeirperfumes,dependingontheirmoods,theeventthey'regoingto,whatthey'rewearing,orwhatevertheyhappentograbontheirdressers.Aretheseeternal,'essential'truthsabouttheirwearers?Notsomuch,sinceperfumecanbeappliedandtakenoffaseasilyasaRobertoCavallileopardprintmaxi-
7、dressoranL.L.Beandownvest-jacket.当然，如今香水依然能"表达"很多东西，但是在后标志性香味时代，当女人（以及男人）每年有多至1,000种新香水可供选择时，多数人会根据心情、要参加的活动、穿戴或者在梳妆台上随手抓来的香水表达不同的信息。这些信息能反映出香水使用者永恒的、最本质的自我吗？不见得，因为香水可以和罗伯特・卡沃利(RobertoCavalli)的豹纹长裙或是L.L.Bean的羽绒背心一样穿脱自如。Herearesomeofthemostpopularperfumefamilies--and
