备受争议的“便当史”.doc

备受争议的“便当史”.doc

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1、备受争议的“便当史”  It’snotanothermiddleclassDIYproject.ThebentoboxisastapleofJapaneseculinaryhistory.2  ThehistoryofbentoisfardeeperthanPokémoncafésandPinspiration.3TheJapaneselunchcontainerevolvedfromutilitytostatussymboltokawaiioverthepast15centuries.4Infact,duringtimesofeconomicuncertaintyowningabe

2、ntoboxwasdownright5controversial.  Inthe5thcentury,Japan’sfarmers,hunters,andwarriorspackedtheirlunchesinsacksorboxesandbroughtthemtothefields.6Thedesignisderivedfromafarmer’sseedbox,andusuallyfeaturesmultiplecompartments7fordifferentdishes,suchasrice,vegetables,andfish.  Fromthere,bentospreada

3、crosscountries―China,SouthKorea,thePhilippines,andmore.Theword“bento”wasactuallyderivedfromtheSouthernSongDynastyslang8termbiàndāng,whichmeans“convenient.”Eachcultureadopteditsowndishesforthebox,buttheideaofavaried,balancedlunchremainedconstant.9Bentobecameafavoriteforculturalgatheringsandsocia

4、levents,suchasfestivals,theater,andreligiousholidays.Boxesthemselvescouldbemadeoflacquered10woodorbasketmaterial.WhenthealuminumbentobecamepopularduringJapan’sTaishōperiodbeginningin1912,11bentosuddenlywentfromlunchtoluxury.  AfterWorldWarI,Japangrappledwith12economicinequality.Whileitsnewfound

5、hegemonyinAsiagrewJapan’sindustry,farmersandmoretraditionallaborerscontendedwithunstablecrops.13Thewealthgaptrickleddown14toJapan’schildren.Wealthyparentssenttheirkidstoschoolwithshinybentolunches,neatlypackedwithnutritiousfare15;poorfamiliescouldnolongeraffordtheonce-simplebento.  “Mymotherwas

6、olderthantheotherkids’mothersandshefilledmylunchboxwithtiny,traditionalporcelain16dishesandcups.Theotherkidshadmodernlunchboxeswithjellysandwichesandwienerscuttolooklikebunnies,”17writesGakuHommainTheFolkArtofJapaneseCountryCooking.Hismotherwasrelievedwhentheschoollunchprogrambegan.  Initiatedi

7、nthelate19thCentury,theMinistryofEducationrecommendednutritiousmealsforallschoolchildren.Theschoollunchlaterbecamestandard18in1954,duringWorldWarIIreconstruction.Hommaremembersthoselunchestypicallycontainedacupofmilk,koppepan,apat

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