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1、ABRIEFHISTORYOFTHEFASHIONSHOWFashionscholarshavepennedhistoriesofthehighheel,thecorset,andthelittleblackdress,butnoonehasyetwrittenadefinitivehistoryofthefashionshow.Theomissioniscurious:Thefashionshowisnotonlythepromotionallinchpinofamultibillion-dollarindustry,itwasalsocentraltothedevelopmentofthe
2、Americandepartmentstore—andthustotheriseofAmericanconsumerculture.Theproblemmaybethatthefashionshow,likeanyperformativeenterprise,isbynatureephemeral.Orperhapsit'sthatthefashioncrowd,alwaysinpursuitofthenextthing,lacksthearchivalimpulse:Whyhashoveryesterday'sclothes?Whateverthereason,asValerieSteele
3、,chiefcuratoranddirectoroftheMuseumattheFashionInstituteofTechnology,toldme:"Thetopicoffashionshowsremainstofinditshistorian."Itis,however,possibletostitchtogetherthetaleofNewYork'ssemiannualFashionWeek,whichcommencedonceagainlastFridayinthetentsatManhattan'sBryantPark.FashionWeekinitsearliestincarn
4、ationwas,insomesense,abidtooverthrowthesartorialtyrannyoftheFrench.AccordingtoSteele,theeventgotitsstartin1943,whenawell-knownfashionpublicistnamedEleanorLambertorganizedsomethingcalled"PressWeek."LambertwasacannyPRmavenwhorecognizedthatitwasapropitiousmomentforAmericanfashion.BeforeWorldWarII,Ameri
5、candesignerswerethoughttobereliantonFrenchcoutureforinspiration.WhentheGermansoccupiedFrancein1940,oneoftheensuingcalamitieswasthatbuyers,editors,anddesignerswereunabletotraveltoParistoseethefewremainingshows,andthefashionworldfretted—wouldAmericanfashionfounderwithouttheinfluenceofFrenchcouture?Wit
6、hPressWeek,Lamberthopedtogiveeditorsachancetosee—andmoreimportant,writeabout—theworkofAmericandesigners,who,freeduptocreatewithouttheanxietyofFrenchinfluence,werequietlymakinginnovativestrideswithindigenousmaterialsandtechniques,writesCarolineRennoldsMilbankinNewYorkFashion:TheEvolutionofAmericanSty
7、le.RuthFinley,publisheroftheFashionCalendar(apink-and-redschedulethattheindustryfindsindispensable)waspresentatthoseearlyshows.Asshetellsit,PressWeekwasheldalternatelyatthePierreandPlazaHotels.Journal
