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1、ABRIEFHISTORYOFTHEFASHIONSHOWFashionscholarshavepennedhistoriesofthehighheel,thecorset,andthelittleblackdress,butnoonehasyetwrittenadefinitivehistoryofthefashionshow.Theomissioniscurious:Thefashionshowisnotonlythepromotionallinchpinofamultibillion-dollarindustry,itwasalsocentraltothede
2、velopmentoftheAmericandepartmentstore—andthustotheriseofAmericanconsumerculture.Theproblemmaybethatthefashionshow,likeanyperformativeenterprise,isbynatureephemeral.Orperhapsit'sthatthefashioncrowd,alwaysinpursuitofthenextthing,lacksthearchivalimpulse:Whyhashoveryesterday'sclothes?Whate
3、verthereason,asValerieSteele,chiefcuratoranddirectoroftheMuseumattheFashionInstituteofTechnology,toldme:"Thetopicoffashionshowsremainstofinditshistorian."Itis,however,possibletostitchtogetherthetaleofNewYork'ssemiannualFashionWeek,whichcommencedonceagainlastFridayinthetentsatManhattan'
4、sBryantPark.FashionWeekinitsearliestincarnationwas,insomesense,abidtooverthrowthesartorialtyrannyoftheFrench.AccordingtoSteele,theeventgotitsstartin1943,whenawell-knownfashionpublicistnamedEleanorLambertorganizedsomethingcalled"PressWeek."LambertwasacannyPRmavenwhorecognizedthatitwasap
5、ropitiousmomentforAmericanfashion.BeforeWorldWarII,AmericandesignerswerethoughttobereliantonFrenchcoutureforinspiration.WhentheGermansoccupiedFrancein1940,oneoftheensuingcalamitieswasthatbuyers,editors,anddesignerswereunabletotraveltoParistoseethefewremainingshows,andthefashionworldfre
6、tted—wouldAmericanfashionfounderwithouttheinfluenceofFrenchcouture?WithPressWeek,Lamberthopedtogiveeditorsachancetosee—andmoreimportant,writeabout—theworkofAmericandesigners,who,freeduptocreatewithouttheanxietyofFrenchinfluence,werequietlymakinginnovativestrideswithindigenousmaterialsa
7、ndtechniques,writesCarolineRennoldsMilbankinNewYorkFashion:TheEvolutionofAmericanStyle.RuthFinley,publisheroftheFashionCalendar(apink-and-redschedulethattheindustryfindsindispensable)waspresentatthoseearlyshows.Asshetellsit,PressWeekwasheldalternatelyatthePierreandPlazaHotels.Journal
