服装设计论文-译文

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1、Heat-TreatingandDryingTherough-cutblocksofhornbeamofEuropeanbeechareplacedinacylindricalchamberandhear-treatedatapressureoftwotothreeatmospheresandatemperatureof250°F[120°C]todestroyunbondedfluids,acids,andfungiandrenderthewoodinsensitivetomoistureandt

2、emperaturedifferences.Some7ounces[200g]ofwaterisevaporatedfroman18-ounce[500g]blockofwood.Thefibersofthewoodbecomedenserandatthesametimemoreresilient.Whenanailisdrivenintoapieceofwoodthathasbeenheat-treated,thefibersareforcedapart;whenthenailisremoved,

3、theyreturntotheiroriginalpositions.Afterheat-treating,bothendsoftheblocksarecoatedwithwaxsothatinsubsequentdryingthefluidinthewoodwillevaporateatthelateralsurfacesandtheendswillnotcrack.Nowtheperiodofnaturaldryingbegins;thislastssometwoyears.Althoughth

4、emoisturecontentofthewoodfallsto16-18%overthisperiod,itmustbefurtherreducedto10-12%beforeitcanundergofurtherprocessing.Forceddryingchamberlastsaboutthreeweeks.Theblocksofwoodareexposedtoanairflowinitiallyatatemperatureof68°F[20°C],whichisgraduallyraise

5、dto85-100°F[30-40°C]andfinallyto120°F[50°C]Themoisturecontentofthewoodischeckedcontinually.Neitherforcednornaturaldrying(storageinashed)canbehurried.Iftheblocksofwoodareputintothedryertosoon,forexamplemostofthemwillcrackorbecomedeformed,losingtheveryqu

6、alityforwhichtheywereselectedforlastmaking:theirresilience.Aftermanyyearsofpreparationtheblockofwoodisreadyfordeliverytothelastmaker’sworkshoptobemadeintoalast.Inthefollowingpagesweshallfindoutsomeofthesecretsofthelastmaker’sartandhowagood-qualitylasti

7、smade-thebasisofagood-qualityshoe.PreparingtheCustom-madeLastbyHandManylastmakers’workshopstillcontaintoolsthathavebeeninuseforoverahundredyears.TwoofthemfromKalmanBerta’sworkshopwouldnotbeoutofplaceinamuseum.Oneoftheseisalong-bladedguillotineusedforth

8、einitialshapingofthelastblock:it’shookedontooneendoftheworkbenchandcanbemovedfreely,inbothverticalandhorizontaldirections.Onetheblockhasbeenshapedwiththeguillotine,theliningsole,shapedwiththeassistanceofthedraft,isdrawnononesideofit.The