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时间:2019-01-10
《炸鱼薯条的前世今生》由会员上传分享,免费在线阅读,更多相关内容在学术论文-天天文库。
1、炸鱼薯条的前世今生 作为英国最具代表性的食物,炸鱼薯条是每个到访英国的人必尝的小吃,就连不久前访问英国的习大大也点名要吃炸鱼薯条。然而,无论从起源还是发展来看,炸鱼薯条其实都不是那么“英国”。这种异乡人首创的美食究竟何以成为英国的“国菜”呢? Eachafternoonat1.45lastweek,Radio4gavetipsforanyonethinkingofopeningachippie1).Thismightseemastrangeambitiontoencourageonourmostmiddle-classradiostation,butaswelearnfroma
2、booktobepublishedlaterthismonth,FishandChips:AHistorybyPanikosPanayi,supplyingfishsuppers2)totheBritishpeoplehasalwaysbeenameansofupwardsocialmobility.AlthoughtheFrenchallegedlystillcalltheBritishlesrosbifs3),forcenturiestheemblematic4)dishoftheUnitedKingdomhasbeenthenutritionallyunbalanced,de
3、ep-friedmealoffishandchips.Yetthere’ssomethinghistoricallyweirdaboutthelinkbetweenourchieftakeawaydelicacyandBritishness. Asfortheclassthing,eversinceDickensfirstmentioned“chips”inprint(inATaleofTwoCitiesin1859)andHenryMayhew5)citeditasthefoodofthepoorin1861,fishandchipshasbeenseenasafeatureo
4、fworking-classlife.10 Isthisstilltrue?NotonlydidtheIvy6)inLondonfeaturefishandchipsonitsmade-overmenuwhenChrisCorbinandJeremyKingrelaunchedtheplaceandmadeitchicin1990,butsodiditssmartersister,theCaprice;andhaddock7)andmushypeascannowbefoundevenonthepriceymenuatScott’s.Nolongertheworkingman’sn
5、ourishment,afishsupperisnowclassless,whichsomewhatincreasesitscredibilityasournationaldish. Why,though,isfishandchipsconsideredBritishinthefirstplace?ClaudiaRoden’s1996TheBookofJewishFood,theultimateauthority,saysbattered8)friedfish“wasalegacyofthePortugueseMarranos9)(crypto-Jews)whocametoEng
6、landinthe16thcentury,manyofthemviaHolland.”NominalChristians,theyweresecretlypractising10)Jews,whofriedtheirfishonFriday(theChristianworld’sfishday)andateitcoldontheirSabbath11)laterthatnightorthenextday,whentheywereforbiddentocookorevenlightafire. Thereisawealthofreferencestobackthisup,inclu
7、dingManuelBrudowritingin1544“thatthefavouritedietofMarranorefugees”wasfriedfish,sprinkledwithflour,dippedineggandbreadcrumbs;LadyMontefiore,whoanonymouslywrotethefirstJewishcookerybookinEnglish(in1846)andrecommendedfryingfishin“Florence
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