炸鱼薯条的前世今生

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1、炸鱼薯条的前世今生　　作为英国最具代表性的食物，炸鱼薯条是每个到访英国的人必尝的小吃，就连不久前访问英国的习大大也点名要吃炸鱼薯条。然而，无论从起源还是发展来看，炸鱼薯条其实都不是那么“英国”。这种异乡人首创的美食究竟何以成为英国的“国菜”呢？　　Eachafternoonat1.45lastweek，Radio4gavetipsforanyonethinkingofopeningachippie1）.Thismightseemastrangeambitiontoencourageonourmostmiddle-classradiostation，butaswelearnfroma

2、booktobepublishedlaterthismonth，FishandChips：AHistorybyPanikosPanayi，supplyingfishsuppers2）totheBritishpeoplehasalwaysbeenameansofupwardsocialmobility.AlthoughtheFrenchallegedlystillcalltheBritishlesrosbifs3），forcenturiestheemblematic4）dishoftheUnitedKingdomhasbeenthenutritionallyunbalanced，de

3、ep-friedmealoffishandchips.Yetthere’ssomethinghistoricallyweirdaboutthelinkbetweenourchieftakeawaydelicacyandBritishness.　　Asfortheclassthing，eversinceDickensfirstmentioned“chips”inprint（inATaleofTwoCitiesin1859）andHenryMayhew5）citeditasthefoodofthepoorin1861，fishandchipshasbeenseenasafeatureo

4、fworking-classlife.10　　Isthisstilltrue？NotonlydidtheIvy6）inLondonfeaturefishandchipsonitsmade-overmenuwhenChrisCorbinandJeremyKingrelaunchedtheplaceandmadeitchicin1990，butsodiditssmartersister，theCaprice；andhaddock7）andmushypeascannowbefoundevenonthepriceymenuatScott’s.Nolongertheworkingman’sn

5、ourishment，afishsupperisnowclassless，whichsomewhatincreasesitscredibilityasournationaldish.　　Why，though，isfishandchipsconsideredBritishinthefirstplace？ClaudiaRoden’s1996TheBookofJewishFood，theultimateauthority，saysbattered8）friedfish“wasalegacyofthePortugueseMarranos9）（crypto-Jews）whocametoEng

6、landinthe16thcentury，manyofthemviaHolland.”NominalChristians，theyweresecretlypractising10）Jews，whofriedtheirfishonFriday（theChristianworld’sfishday）andateitcoldontheirSabbath11）laterthatnightorthenextday，whentheywereforbiddentocookorevenlightafire.　　Thereisawealthofreferencestobackthisup，inclu

7、dingManuelBrudowritingin1544“thatthefavouritedietofMarranorefugees”wasfriedfish，sprinkledwithflour，dippedineggandbreadcrumbs；LadyMontefiore，whoanonymouslywrotethefirstJewishcookerybookinEnglish（in1846）andrecommendedfryingfishin“Florence