给榴莲的情书

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1、给榴莲的情书　　WhenmyfriendBobHallidaythinksabout1）durians，thetropicalfruitthatsomesaysmellslikegarbage，henotonly2）salivateswithdelightedanticipation，buthealso“foamslikea3）geyser.”ThosewerethewordsheusedontheeveofourvisittoanorchardnorthofBangkokthatwasfilledwiththesegreenspikyfruitsd

2、anglingdangerouslyfromtoweringtrees.　　Iconfesstothesamepassionwithwhatmustbetheworld’ssmelliestfruit.　　Whatisitaboutthedurian？Shapedlikearugbyballwithlargethornsthatcanpierceeventhemostcallusedhands，durianstinkssobadlythatit’sbannedfromairplanes，hotelsandmasstransitinmostSouthe

3、astAsiancities.　　Yet4）aficionadoslikeBobandIwilltravelterribledistances，cancelimportantappointments―doanything―toscarfdownglobsof5）custardyfleshfromadurian.WhilemanyThaisliketheirduriansharvestedearlysotheinteriorisstillhardandcanbeneatlyhandled，Ilikeanover-ripeneddurian，whichh

4、asthe6）consistencyofcottagecheese.It’saverymessyaffair.　　Itgoeswithoutsayingthatdurianisa7）polarizingand9controversialfruit.Thereisalongtraditionofdurianhaterswhocannotgetpastthesmellandgooey-nessofdurian，especiallyamongWesternvisitorstoSoutheastAsia.SimondeLaLoubère，aFrenchdip

5、lomatwhocamehereinthe17thcenturyandwrotewithunusualempathyabouttheKingdomof8）Siam，drewthelineatdurian，describingitas“unbearable”becauseofitssmell.　　Butasaforeigncorrespondentfornearlytwodecades，whohasalwayssoughttowritefairlyanddispassionately，I9）dispensewithobjectivityforamome

6、ntandattemptanodetowhattheMalaysiansrightlycallthekingoffruits.　　Yes，Ifreelyadmitthatwhenripeitcansmelllikeadeadanimal.Yes，thefruitisdifficulttohandle，bearinglikenesstoa10）medievalweapon.Butgetdowntothepaleyellow，creamyflesh，andyou’llexperienceovertonesofhazelnut，apricot，11）car

7、amelizedbananaandeggcustard.That’smyattemptatdescribingdurian.Butwordsfail；thereisnootherfruitlikeit.BobcomparesittotheworksofOlivierMessiaen，the20th-centuryFrenchcomposer：complex，12）dissonant，butwithanoverallimpressionofsweetness.　　ThefirsttimeItasteddurianwaswhenIwaspostedin1

8、3）KualaLumpur15yearsago.Truckspiledhighwiththefruitwou