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1、IoncesatinahotelinBloomsburytryingtohavebreakfastalone.ARussianwithahabitofcompulsivelylickinghislipsaskedifhecouldjoinme.Iwasafraidtosayno;Ithoughtitmightbebadfordétente.Heexplainedtomethathewasalinguist,andthathealwayslikedtotalktoAmericanstoseeifhecou
2、ldmakeanyconnectionbetweentheirspeechandtheirethnicbackground.WhenItoldhimaboutmymixedancestry—mymotherisIrishandItalian,myfatheraLithuanianJew—hebeganjumpingupanddowninhisseat,rubbinghishandstogether,andlickinghislipsevenmorefrantically.“Ah,”hesaid,“soy
3、ouarereallysomebodywhocomesfromwhatiscalledtheboilingpotofAmerica.”Yes,Itoldhim,yesIwas,butIquicklyrosetoleave.Ithoughtitwouldbetoohardtoexplaintohimtherelationoftheboilingpotterstothemaincourse,andIwantedtogettotheBritishMuseum.ItoldhimthattheonlythingI
4、couldthinkofthatunitedpeoplewhosebackgrounds,histories,andpointsofviewwereutterlydiversewasthattheirpeoplehadlandedataplacecalledEllisIsland.Ididn'ttellhimthatEllisIslandwastheonlyAmericanlandmarkI'devervisited.HowcouldIdescribetohimtheestrangementI'dalw
5、aysfeltfromthekindoftravelerwhovisitsshrinestoAmerica'spastgreatness,thoserebuiltfortswithmusketsbehindglassandsabersmountedonthewallsandgiftshopssellingmaplesugarcandyintheshapeofIndianheaddresses,thosereconstructedvillageswithtablessetforfiftyandthePau
6、lReveresilvergleaming?AllthatAmericana—PlymouthRock,Gettysburg,MountVernon,ValleyForge—itallinhabitsformeazoneofblurredabstractionwithfarlessholdonmyimaginationthantheBastilleorHamptonCourt.IsupposeI'vealwaysknownthatmyuninterestinitcontainsalargecompone
7、ntofthewilled:IamAmerican,andthoseplacespurporttobemyhistory.Buttheyarenotmine.EllisIslandis,though;it'stheoneplaceIcanbesuremypeopleareconnectedto.AndsoImadeajourneytheretofindmyhistory,likeanyRotariantravelinginhisWinnebagotoAntietamtofindhis.Ihadbecom
8、epartofthathumblingdemocracyofpeoplelookinginsomesiteforapastthathasgrownunreal.ThemonumentItraveledtowasnot,however,atributetosomeoldglory.TheminuteIsetfootupontheislandIcouldfeelallthatitstoodfor:insecurity,obedience,anx
