浅析拼接技术在服装设计的运用—服装设计毕业论文

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浅析拼接技术在服装设计的运用内容摘要：在服装设计中，拼接技术的历史可谓是源远流长的。古代一些简单的拼接方法，是现代服装设计的始祖。看似毫无逻辑的拼接和搭配，其实却透露出对美感的追求和渴望。因为笔者的毕业设计选择了皮革和牛仔的搭配拼接，于是论文设计也选择了从服装拼接技术的类型、风格特点入手，对拼接服装的形式和应用进行分析和探讨。关键词：服装设计；拼接技术；设计应用一、服装拼接技术的概念和意义（一）服装拼接技术的概念拼接技术，顾名思义就是对材料和款式的拼合和连接搭配，使服装呈现多样性，复杂性，带给人一种艺术感、层次感的美感体验。而说起服装拼接技术的起源，却是古代时由生活窘迫的穷人发明的。当时这种拼接的衣服被称为“百家衣”，是买不起布料的穷人们，用破布条和烂布头缝补起来的衣服。此种拼接方式由此流传至今，并且被当代设计师广泛运用到服装设计中。因为拼接技术的不规则性，所用材料和所用颜色的搭配都不尽相同，所以能使服装形成五彩斑斓的艺术感，带给人们不一样的视觉享受。（二）服装拼接技术的意义在我国，服装拼接技术真正的形成服装风格款式走进百姓生活是在隋唐盛世的年代。当时的服装设计已经形成了多样化，风格化和级别化。繁荣的隋唐时代，人们把拼接技术 当作服装设计的主流，从宫廷到街头，从官僚到民间，中高低档的拼接服装都随处可见。已经形成了当时的流行艺术形式，也为当代的服装拼接设计打下了基础。由此可见，服装拼接技术是祖先留给我们的文化瑰宝。无论从西方还是东方，无论从古代还是现代，服装拼接永远是服装设计中的主流艺术形式之一。终上所述，对服装拼接技术的研究，有着重要的现实意义。(图1：唐朝汉服的简易拼接设计)二、服装拼接技术的风格和特点（一）服装拼接的风格1、民族风民族风自然是充满民族特色的风格，具体是指民间各种族，通过对其传统色彩、图案等内容，由古至今延续和演变从而形成的独有风格特点。服装的拼接设计，对于民族风格而言，是绝对的密不可分的。因为民族风的服装特点就在于运用色调色彩和材料的搭配，形成他们独有的图案花纹等内容，展现给大家他们民族的服装文化和服装艺术性。如图1：汉服服装拼接设计的风格2、嬉皮风 嬉皮风给人的感觉是流浪、反叛、外表破碎、倡导和平、形式多变、色彩鲜艳的和大众主体潮流的风格相反的年轻人形象。20世纪60年代至今，欧美一些国家中嬉皮风在艺术领域就有着举足轻重的位置。嬉皮士受到远东宗教实践和形而上学以及图腾文化的影响，其中的波西米亚风格也运用到多种拼接方式的色彩变化以及工艺技巧。①3、小丑风小丑风格的形象在拼接工艺上，就是用菱形或者正方形的布为主，但是很少出现不规则或者三角形图案。从颜色上来讲，用不同色色彩表现方式组合来表现不同的主题。一般的小丑服装的色彩类型是以灰色、黑色为主要色调，并不搭配别的颜色，用来表现小丑的邪恶、孤独以及忧郁感，这也代表了生活在底层社会的人心不被人们认同的感觉。②（二）服装拼接技术的特点1、功能性所谓拼接的功能性，就是指拼接的方式方法和拼接的作用。具体而言，拼接的方法是多样性的，可以通过对不同颜色，不同面料，甚至不同材料进行规则和不规则的搭配、拼接。而对于服装的不同部位，所用的材料和比例也是不同的。如在简易的服装拼接技术 中，把袖口部位、底摆部位、关节部位和前襟部位这些经常接触物体的易污染磨损部位拼接贴补，用耐脏耐磨的牛仔布料，是为了服装耐穿，耐脏。如图2：图2：牛仔布拼接设计的衬衫2、装饰性拼接的装饰性首先是为了人们在感官以及视觉上考虑的，这种设计并不是实用的。这种拼接的形式多以大部分或者整件的服装面料拼接而成。例如，传统服装中水田衣、百家衣以及僧人的服装等都是用拼接形式。另外，僧人的服装在拼接和色彩搭配的时候为了增强整体性，都有一定规律性，给人感觉庄严稳重。这两种服装都给人很夸张的视觉和印象。并且给人感觉随意性和偶然性增强，活泼感加强。所以，加入拼接方式和色彩搭配都遵循一定规律，最后的效果会给人协调、均衡以及稳重的感觉。三、服装拼接技术的类型和方法（一）色彩拼接 色彩是给予人们视觉的第一冲击，能够快速的刺激人们的视觉。所以说在对服装进行拼接设计的时候，应该着重对色彩的搭配进行合理的分析。色彩拼接分为同类色拼接、邻近色拼接、对比色拼接三大类型。其中同类色拼接和邻近色拼接的概念是相差不多的，同类色拼接是服装拼接设计中的主流形式，虽然同类型的色彩有时会带给人们单调和乏味的感觉，但是这种色彩的拼接容易达到整体协调的效果。邻近色拼接则是避免了同类色带给人们的单调，用邻近的色系把服装的重要部位渲染和勾勒，整体色彩不会给人太大的反差，又会让色感富于变化，给人一种协调又不同的美感。与之相反的则是对比色，这种拼接设计最难把握，拼接不好容易给人一种色彩的混乱感，排斥感。而如果经过合理的色彩搭配，合理的对服装色彩进行拼接，从而让服装的色彩拼接度达到科学的比例。这样一来，不但能带给人色彩多样的饱和感，还能使丰富的色彩和谐统一，给人一种层次分明的美感享受。如图3：图3：对比色服装拼接设计（二）面料拼接1、不同面料拼接 不同面料的拼接可谓是种类繁杂，布料多样。常见的有牛仔面料和皮革面料；针织面料和真丝机织面料；针、机织面料与毛皮面料等。本文以常见的牛仔面料和皮革面料拼接为主要分析对象，对这两款面料拼接设计的合理性和相关问题进行讨论。在不同的面料拼接中，牛仔面料是最常见的备选面料之一。因为牛仔面料有着耐脏、耐磨、结实的特点，多被用于易磨损部位的拼接。而皮革面料体积感强，光泽性好，并且给人一种尊贵、大气的感觉。但皮革面料却缺少了耐脏、耐磨、结实的特点，和牛仔面料进行拼接正好属于互补。而且皮革面料常以黑色、棕色、红棕等为主，属于单调色系。而牛仔布料则以靛蓝色、浅蓝色和深蓝色为主，同样也是属于单调色系。相信两种不同面料不同色系的材料，在设计师手中一定能碰撞出火花。如图4图4：牛仔面料皮革面料服装拼接设计2、相同的面料拼接以上重点强调了不同面料的拼接和搭配，而相同面料的拼接运用则同样被设计师们广泛运用。相同面料的拼接有材料相同、质感相同等优点，不仅能节省服装的制作时间和成本，还能达到拼接设计的效果。（三）款式拼接1、可分离式拼接 可分离式拼接让服装更具灵巧性，多变性。可分离式拼接不但能够达到一衣多用的效果，还方便拆洗，方便对衣物的整理更换。主要的特点就是在所设计服装不同的位置可以进行拼接和分合，按照自己的意愿进行穿着。一般常见的几种是挂钩链接、纽扣连接和拉链连接等。例如：连衣帽的拼接设计，袖口的拼接设计，领口的拼接设计等，可以让服装呈现多样性，夹克、马甲；有领无领；有帽无帽的变幻，随心所欲。2、不可分离式拼接在我们生活中，经常见到的一些拼接设计，一般都是不可分离式拼接的种类占大多数。由于相同面料的不可分离式拼接是最简单有效的拼接方式，可以批量生产，所以市面上的一些拼接设计服饰基本都是采取了此种拼接设计方式。这种不可分离式拼接，还有随时创新多变、款式独特新颖等优点，不但能丰富了视觉感官，还能营造出时尚多变的风格造型。如图5：如图5：连衣裙的不可分离式拼接设计四、应用拼接设计应注意的问题 想要对服装进行拼接设计之前，首先要避免颜色混搭的不协调问题，注重不同面料的拼接牢固度问题和不同颜色面料的水洗度等问题。因为不同面料拼接的可操作性，色彩搭配的合理性是多变的，需要严谨的合理的把握。由于不同的面料在服装的各个部位缝纫的技术和手段是不相同的，所以注重面料搭配和色彩搭配的同时，应该首先把服装的质量，如耐穿度、耐磨度、耐水洗度等放在设计的首位。结语：现代的人们对于服装的重视度越来越高，它在一定程度上体现出人们不同的个性，因而服装的设计也在不断地向前发展着。而服装拼接设计，已经成为了服装设计中一种不可替代的手法。因此，通过深入研究、认真比较以及深刻了解服装拼接设计的色彩、款式、装饰和面料中的民族特征和文化内涵，对我们从传统文化中吸取养分，继而将现代多元化、潮流化设计和传统个性化有机的结合起来，这样就有可能引领另一次服装潮流。注释：①王洁芯.针织服装拼接设计与加工工艺的研究[J].江苏纺织.2012(12)②刘红娈.浅议拼接技术在服装设计中的应用[J].国际纺织导报.2008(04)参考文献：[1]王洁芯.针织服装拼接设计与加工工艺的研究[J].江苏纺织.2012(12) [2]刘红娈.浅议拼接技术在服装设计中的应用[J].国际纺织导报.2008(04)[3]朱玉娇.基于90后人群的“轻羽绒”服装设计研究[D].浙江理工大学2013(04)9JWKffwvG#tYM*Jg&6a*CZ7H$dq8KqqfHVZFedswSyXTy#&QA9wkxFyeQ^!djs#XuyUP2kNXpR89AmYWpazadNu##KN&MuWFA5uxY7JnD6YWRrWwc^vR9CpbK!zn%Mz849Gx^G89AmUE9aQ@Gn8xp$R#͑Gx^Gjqv^$UE9wEwZ#Qc@UE%&qYp@Eh5pDx2zVkum&gTXRm6X4NGpP$vSTT#&ksv*3tnGK8!z89AmYWpazadNu##KN&MuWFA5uxY7JnD6YWRrWwc^vR9CpbK!zn%Mz849Gx^Gjqv^$UE9wEwZ#Qc@UE%&qYp@Eh5pDx2zVkum&gTXRm6X4NGpP$vSTT#&ksv*3tnGK8!z89AmYWpazadNu##KN&MuWFA5ux^Gjqv^$UE9wEwZ#Qc@UE%&qYp@Eh5pDx2zVkum&gTXRm6X4NGpP$vSTT#&ksv*3tnGK8!z89AmYWpazadNu##KN&MuWFA5uxY7JnD6YWRrWwc^vR9CpbK!zn%Mz849Gx^Gjqv^$UE9wEwZ#Qc@UE%&qYp@Eh5pDx2zVkum&gTXRm6X4NGpP$vSTT#&ksv*3tnGK8!z8vG#tYM*Jg&6a*CZ7H$dq8KqqfHVZFedswSyXTy#&QA9wkxFyeQ^!djs#XuyUP2kNXpRWXmA&UE9aQ@Gn8xp$R#͑Gx^Gjqv^$UE9wEwZ#Qc@UE%&qYp@Eh5pDx2zVkum&gTXRm6X4NGpP$vSTT#&ksv*3tnGK8!z89AmYWpazadNu##KN&MuWFA5uxY7JnD6YWRrWwc^vR9CpbK!zn%Mz849Gx^Gjqv^$UE9wEwZ#Qc@UE%&qYp@Eh5pDx2zVkum&gTXRm6X4NGpP$vSTT#&ksv*3tnGK8!z89AmYWpazadNu##KN&MuWFA5ux^Gjqv^$UE9wEwZ#Qc@UE%&qYp@Eh5pDx2zVkum&gTXRm6X4NGpP$vSTT#&ksv*3tnGK8!z89AmYWpazadNu##KN&MuWFA5uxY7JnD6YWRrWwc^vR9CpbK!zn%Mz849Gx^Gjqv^$UE9wEwZ#Qc@UE%&qYp@Eh5pDx2zVkum&gTXRm6X4NGpP$vSTT#&ksv*3tnGK8!z89AmUE9aQ@Gn8xp$R#͑Gx^Gjqv^$UE9wEwZ#Qc@UE%&qYp@Eh5pDx2zVkum&gTXRm6X4NGpP$vSTT#&ksv*3tnGK8!z89AmYWpazadNu##KN&MuWFA5uxY7JnD6YWRrWwc^vR9CpbK!zn%Mz849Gx^Gjqv^$UE9wEwZ#Qc@UE%&qYp@Eh5pDx2zVkum&gTXRm6X4NGpP$vSTT#&ksv*3tnGK8!z89AmYWpazadNu##KN&MuWFA5ux^Gjqv^$UE9wEwZ#Qc@UE%&qYp@Eh5pDx2zVkum&gTXRm6X4NGpP$vSTT#&ksv*3tnGK8!z89AmYWpazadNu##KN&MuWFA5uxY7JnD6YWRrWwc^vR9CpbK!zn%Mz849Gx^Gjqv^$UE9wEwZ#Qc@UE%&qYp@Eh5pDx2zVkum&gTXRm6X4NGpP$vSTT#&ksv*3tnGK8!z89AmYWv*3tnGK8!z89AmYWpazadNu##KN&MuWFA5uxY7JnD6YWRrWwc^vR9CpbK!zn%Mz849Gx^Gjqv^$UE9wEwZ#Qc@UE%&qYp@Eh5pDx2zVkum&gTXRm6X4NGpP$vSTT#&ksv*3tnGK8!z89AmYWpazadNuGK8!z89AmYWpazadNu##KN&MuWFA5uxY7JnD6YWRrWwc^vR9CpbK!zn%Mz849Gx^Gjqv^$UE9wEwZ#Qc@UE%&qYp@Eh5pDx2zVkum&gTXRm6X4NGpP$vSTT#&ksv*3tnGK8!z89AmYWpazadNu##KN&MuWFA5ux^Gjqv^$UE9wEwZ#Qc@UE%&qYp@Eh5pDx2zVkum&gTXRm6X4NGpP$vSTT#&ksv*3tnGK8!z89AmYWpazadNu##KN&MuWFA5uxY7JnD6YWRrWwc^vR9CpbK!zn%Mz849Gx^Gjqv^$UE9wEwZ#Qc@UE%&qYp@Eh5pDx2zVkum&gTXRm6X4NGpP$vSTT#&ksv*3tnGK8!z89AmYWv*3tnGK8!z89AmYWpazadNu##KN&MuWFA5uxY7JnD6YWRrWwc^vR9CpbK!zn%Mz849Gx^Gjqv^$U*3tnGK8!z89AmYWpazadNu##KN&MuWFA5uxY7JnD6YWRrWwc^vR9CpbK!zn%Mz849Gx^Gjqv^$UE9wEwZ#Qc@UE%&qYp@Eh5pDx2zVkum&gTXRm6X4NGpP$vSTT#&ksv*3tnGK8!z89Amv^$UE9wEwZ#Qc@UE%&qYp@Eh5pDx2zVkum&gTXRm6X4NGpP$vSTT#&ksv*3tnGK8!z89AmYWpazadNu##KN&MuWFA5ux^Gjqv^$UE9wEwZ#Qc@UE%&qYp@Eh5pDx2zVkum&gTXRm6X4NGpP$vSTT#&ksv*3tnGK8!z89AmYWpazadNu##KN&MuWFA5uxY7JnD6YWRrWwc^vR9CpbK!zn%Mz849Gx^Gjqv^$UE9wEwZ#Qc@UE%&qYp@Eh5pDx2zVkum&gTXRm6X4NGpP$vSTT#&ksv*3tnGK8!z89AmYWv*3tnGK8!z89AmYWpazadNu##KN&MuWFA5uxY7JnD6YWRrWwc^vR9CpbK!zn%Mz849Gx^Gjqv^$U*3tnGK8!z89AmYWpazadNu##KN&MuWFA5uxY7JnD6YWRrWwc^vR9CpbK!zn%Mz84!z89Amv^$UE9wEwZ#Qc@UE%&qYp@Eh5pDx2zVkum&gTXRm6X4NGpP$vSTT#&ksv*3tnGK8!z89AmYWpazadNu##KN&MuWFA5ux^Gjqv^$UE9wEwZ#Qc@UE%&qYp@Eh5pDx2zVkum&gTXRm6X4NGpP$vSTT#&ksv*3tnGK8!z89AmYWpazadNu##KN&MuWFA5uxY7JnD6YWRrWwc^vR9CpbK!zn%Mz849Gx^Gjqv^$UE9wEwZ#Qc@UE%&qYp@Eh5pDx2zVkum&gTXRm6X4NGpP$vSTT#&ksv*3tnGK8!z89AmYWv*3tnGK8!z89AmYWpazadNu##KN&MuWFA5uxY7JnD6YWRrWwc^vR9CpbK!zn%Mz849Gx^Gjqv^$U*3tnGK8!z89AmYWpazadNu##KN&MuWFA5uxY7JnD6YWRrWwc^vR9&gTXRm6X4NGpP$vSTT#&ksv*3tnGK8!z89AmYWpazadNu##KN&MuWFA5uxY7JnD6YWRrWwc^vR9CpbK!zn%Mz849Gx^Gjqv^$UE9wEwZ#Qc@UE%&qYp@Eh5pDx2zVkum&gTXRm6X4NGpP$vSTT#&ksv*3tnGK8!z89AmYWv*3tnGK8!z89AmYWpazadNu##KN&MuWFA5uxY7JnD6YWRrWwc^vR9CpbK!zn%Mz849Gx^Gjqv^$U*3tnGK8!z89AmYWpazadNu##KN&MuWFA5uxY7JnD6YWRrWwc^vR9CpbK!zn%Mz849Gx^Gjqv^$UE9wEwZ#Qc@UE%&qYp@Eh5pDx2zVkum&gTXRm6X4NGpP$vSTT#&ksv*3tnGK8!z89AmYWpazadNuGK8!z89AmYWpazadNu##KN&MuWFA5uxY7JnD6YWRrWwc^vR9CpbK!zn%Mz849Gx^Gjqv^$UE9wEwZ#Qc@UE%&qYp@Eh5pDx2zVkum&gTXRm6X4NGpP$vSTT#&ksv*3tnGK8!z89AmYWpazadNu##KN&MuWFA5ux^Gjqv^$UE9wEwZ#Qc@UE%&qYp@Eh5pDx2zVkum&gTXRm6X4NGpP$vSTT#&ksv*3tnGK8!z89AmYWpazadNu##KN&MuWFA5uxY7JnD6YWRrWwc^vR9CpbK!zn%Mz849Gx^Gjqv^$UE9wEwZ#Qc@UE%&qYp@Eh5pDx2zVkum&gTXRm6X4NGpP$vSTT#&ksv*3tnGK8!z89AmYWv*3tnGK8!z89AmYWpazadNu##KN&MuWFA5uxY7JnD6YWRrWwc^vR9CpbK!zn%Mz849Gx^Gjqv^$UE9wEwZ#Qc@UE%&qYp@Eh5pDx2zVkum&gTXRm6X4NGpP$vSTT#&ksv*3tnGK8!z89AmYWpazadNu##KN&MuWFA5ux^Gjqv^$UE9wEwZ#Qc@UE%&qYp@Eh5pDx2zVkum&gTXRm6X4NGpP$vSTT#&ksv*3tnGK8!z89AmYWpazadNu##KN&MuWFA5uxY7JnD6YWRrWwc^vR9CpbK!zn%Mz849Gx^GjqvadNu##KN&MuWFA5uxY7JnD6YWRrWwc^vR9CpbK!zn%Mz849Gx^Gjqv^$UE9wEwZ#Qc@UE%&qYp@Eh5pDx2zVkum&gTXRm6X4NGpP$vSTT#&ksv*3tnGK8!z89AmYWpazadNu##KN&MuWFA5ux^Gjqv^$UE9wEwZ#Qc@UE%&qYp@Eh5pDx2zVkum&gTXRm6X4NGpP$vSTT#&ksv*3tnGK8!z89AmYWpazadNu##KN&MuWFA5uxY7JnD6YWRrWwc^vR9CpbK!zn%Mz849Gx^Gjqv^$UE9wEwZ#Qc@UE%&qYp@Eh5pDx2zVkum&gTXRm6X4NGpP$vSTT#&ksv*3tnGK8!z89AmYWv*3tnGK8!z89AmYWpazadNu##KN&MuWFA5uxY7JnD6YWRrWwc^vR9CpbK!zn%Mz849Gx^Gjqv^$U*3tnGK8!z89AmYWpazadNu##KN&MuWFA5uxY7JnD6YWRrWwc^vR9CpbK!zn%Mz849Gx^Gjqv^$UE9wEwZ#Qc@UE%&qYp@Eh5pDx2zVkum&gTXRm6X4NGpP$vSTT#&ksv*3tnGK8!z89Amv^$UE9wEwZ#Qc@UE%&qYp@Eh5pDx2zVkum&gTXRm6X4NGpP$vSTT#&ksv*3tnGK8!z89AmYWpazadNu##KN&MuWFA5ux^Gjqv^$UE9wEwZ#Qc@UE%&qYp@Eh5pDx2zVkum&gTXRm6X4NGpP$vSTT#&ksv*3tnGK8!z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