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1、EnglishRenaissanceDressEnglishRenaissancedressstylewasquiteheavilyinfluencedbytheFrench,andtoalesser(较少的)degreetheSpanish.IndeedsomescholarsdebatewhethertherewasanactualEnglishRenaissance,buttheydoadmittoan“artisticflowering”duringthereignsoftheTudormonarchs.TheEnglishRenaissanceperiodwas
2、characterizedbyachievementsinliteratureandmusic,ratherthanthevisualartsofpaintingandarchitecturethatwasdevelopinginItalyandFrance.EventhoughsomeelementsofEnglishRenaissancedresswereborrowedfromothercountries,theydidmakevariationsandimprovementsuponthem.Oneexampleistheruff(环状领),thissmallru
3、fflearoundtheneckandsleevesofaman'slinen(亚麻布)shirt,whichcouldvarygreatlyinitsornateness(华丽),becameafavoriteofEnglishgentlemen.TheruffhadoriginallybeenintroducedinSpainbyanoblewomanwishingtohideablemishonherneck.DuringtheEnglishRenaissance,manygarments(衣服)ofthesamestylewerewornbyboththeupp
4、erandthelowerclasses.However,thetype,qualityandespeciallycolor,ofthefabric(织物)usedfortheseclothesvariedgreatlybetweentheclasses.Totherich,fashionwasveryimportantasasymboloftheirwealthandinfluence;tothepoor,however,theirconcernswerethatagarmentbepractical,andabovealldurable(持久耐用的).Allclass
5、esusedwoolorlinen(亚麻布)forshirtsandunderwear,butofvastlydifferentquality.Onlytheextremelywealthycouldaffordcottonorsilkundergarments.Thesewereoftenembroidered(绣花的)withgold,silverorsilkthread(线).FabricsusedinEnglishRenaissanceclothingwerecoloredalmostexclusivelywithvegetablesdyes(染料).Themos
6、tcommonbeingmadderforred,woad(靛蓝)forblue,andwalnut(茶色)forbrown.Inordertocreateothercolorsandshades,achemical,knownasamordant,wasneeded.Forinstance,alum(明矾)usedwiththeweld(焊接)plantwouldproduceyellow,whereasironortinusedwithweldwouldresultinshadesofgreen.Themostexpensivedyestoproducewerebri
7、ghtredandblack.Therefore,onlythetrulywealthyworejet(深黑色)blackclothing,andscarlet(绯红色),duringtheEnglishRenaissance,referrednottoacolor,buttoanextremelyexpensivefinegradeofwool.Becausedyeingwasexpensive,theclothingofthepoorerclasseswasgenerallylimitedtouncoloredlinena