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THEREALLASVEGAS TheRealLasVegasLIFEBEYONDTHESTRIPEditedbyDavidLittlejohnPhotographsbyEricGran11999 OXFORDUNIVERSITYPRESSOxfordNewYorkAthensAucklandBangkokBogotáBuenosAiresCalcuttaCapeTownChennaiDaresSalaamDelhiFlorenceHongKongIstanbulKarachiKualaLumpurMadridMelbourneMexicoCityMumbaiNairobiParisSãoPauloSingaporeTaipeiTokyoTorontoWarsawandassociatedcompaniesinBerlinIbadanCopyright©1999byDavidLittlejohnPublishedbyOxfordUniversityPress,Inc.198MadisonAvenue,NewYork,NewYork10016OxfordisaregisteredtrademarkofOxfordUniversityPressAllrightsreserved.Nopartofthispublicationmaybereproduced,storedinaretrievalsystem,ortransmitted,inanyformorbyanymeans,electronic,mechanical,photocopying,recording,orotherwise,withoutthepriorpermissionofOxfordUniversityPress.LibraryofCongressCataloging-in-PublicationDataTherealLasVegas:lifebeyondthestrip/editedbyDavidLittlejohn;photographsbyEricGran.p.cm.Includesindex.ISBN0-19-513070-71.LasVegas(Nev.)—Descriptionandtravel.2.LasVegas(Nev.)—Socialconditions.3.LasVegas(Nev.)—Economicconditions.I.Littlejohn,David,1937–.F849.L35R381999979.3'135033—dc2198–43830Design:AdamB.Bohannon987654321PrintedintheUnitedStatesofAmericaonacid-freepaper ToallthegoodpeopleofClarkCountyandNyeCounty,Nevada,whogenerouslysharedwithustheirlivesandideas;withspecialthankstoEdBayley,OrvilleSchell,JohnL.Smith,andtheUniversityofCaliforniaalumniofsouthernNevada. ContentsIntroduction:TheUltimateCompanyTownDAVIDLITTLEJOHN1DownandOutinVegasMALCOLMGARCIA41Bingo!MICHELLELING63GrowingUpinLasVegasMARIESANCHEZ75ElPueblodeLasVegasBILLDAUBER97AViewfromWestLasVegasNEFRETITIMAKENTA109WaterfortheDesertMiracleJENNAWARD133ForSale:ThirtyThousandHomesaYearLISAMOSKOWITZ147HousesoftheHolyLORILEIBOVICH167OrganizingLasVegasANDREALAMPROS181Pawnshops:LendersofLastResortJOEHEIM201SkinCityMAIAHANSEN217 LawandDisorderHEATHERWORLD243WhyThey’reMad:SouthernNevadaversustheUnitedStatesRANDOLPHCOURT259Epilogue:LearningMorefromLasVegasDAVIDLITTLEJOHN281ListofIllustrations291NotesonContributors293Index297Illustrationsappearafterpages132and180 THEREALLASVEGAS IntroductionTHEULTIMATECOMPANYTOWNDavidLittlejohnPEELINGOFFTHESTRIPLasVegasValleyisaflat—averyflat—stretchofabout500squaremilesofdrydesertlandsurroundedbysmooth,treelessbrownmountains.In1999itwashometowelloveramillionpeople.Projectingintothefuturethevalley’scurrentrateofgrowth(therewereabout400,000peopleherein1980,700,000in1990),theNevadaStatedemog-rapherenvisionstwomillionpeoplelivinginLasVegasValleyby2010.Thisprospecthorrifiessomeresidents,whoinsistthattheywillbelonggonebeforethetwo-millionthcitizenarrives,atthesametimethatittan-talizesrealestatedevelopers.Thesemillionortwomillionpeopleareorwillbehere—whetherornottheyrealizeoradmitit—becauseoftheIndustry,asinsiderstendtocallit,thewaypeopleinLosAngelesrefertothecompaniesthatmakemoviesandtelevisionfilms.TheIndustryinLasVegasiscasinogambling,whichitsrepresentativeswouldlikeyoutocalltheGamingIndustry.Formostpeoplethisdenotesafour-milestretchofLasVegasBoulevardSouthcalledtheStrip,whichoccasionallyspillsoverontosideandparallelstreets,fromSaharaAvenueatthenorthendtojustpastHaciendaAvenueatthesouth,whereitbumpsintoMcCarranAirport.TheIndustryalsoimpliesDowntown,acoupleofmilesnorthoftheStrip,whichwasonceagenuinedowntown,1b cDavidLittlejohnthehistoricbirthplaceandcommercialcenterofthecity.AlthoughmoreclutteredbyurbanrealitythantheStrip,whatLasVegaspromotersnowcallDowntownisasecondarytouristdistrictoftenmajorandseveralminorcasino-hotelscenteredon2,000feetofFremontStreet,eastoftherailroadtracksandInterstate15.In1995-96,gamblersleftbehind$3.7bil-lionatthemachines,tables,andsportsbooksoftheStripcomparedto$683millionDowntown,afactthatgivessomeideaoftherelativeimpor-tanceofthetwointheindustrythatcreatedandstillrunsLasVegas.Inactuality,LasVegashasnodowntown,nocentralbusinessdistrict.Residentsshopatafewgrand-scaleshoppingplazasandanyoneofahundredstripmallsscatteredaboutthevalley.TherearetwoupscaleretailcentersontheStrip—theFashionShowMallandtheForumShopsatCaesars—butthesedependonvisitorsformostoftheirprofits.Whatofficesthereare(ClarkCountyhasabout2,100attorneys,1,900doctors,and2,600architects)tendtobestrungoutalongtheevenlyspacedgridoflong,straightboulevardsorclusteredinafewmedium-sizehigh-rises,noneofwhichapproachestheheightorgrandeuroftherulingcasinohotels.LasVegascanmeantheCityofLasVegasproper,whichincludesDowntown,aclusterofpublicbuildings,andtherelativelyimpoverishedWestSidebutnottheStrip,theairport,theuniversity,ormostoftheres-identialandcommercialdevelopmentofthepast50years.Considerablyenlargedbytheannexationsince1987ofavastnewhousingdevelopmenttothenorthwest,theCityofLasVegasnowencompasses85,000acresandhadin1996apopulationof377,000.Toanyoneexceptlocalpoliti-cians,voters,andtaxpayers,however,itwouldbeabsurdtotalkabout“LasVegas”andnotincludethe36casino-hotelsonandjustofftheStrip,withtheir83,000rooms(scheduledtogrowto91,000by2000),theirscoresofrestaurants,theirvastmeetingandconventionhalls,theirshow-roomsandspasandarenasandshops,andtheirmorethan500acresofcovered,oftenlavishlydecoratedspaceinwhichadultvisitorsareinvitedtogamble.Inordertoincludethese,theiconicplacesofLasVegas,onemustdefinethecitymorebroadly.ManyclaimsfororstatisticsaboutLasVegasactuallyrefertothecountythatsurroundsit.ClarkCounty,apoliticaljurisdictionconsiderablymoreimportantthanthecity,doesincludetheStrip,theairport,andtheuniversity,aswellasNellisAirForceBaseandtheincorporatedtownsofBoulderCity(wherepublicgamblingisforbid-den),NorthLasVegas,Henderson,andLaughlin,aten-casinolow-rollers’havenatthepointysoutherntipofthestate.Italsoincludesahandfulofotherunincorporatedsettlements,andvaststretchesofdesert2b cIntroductioninbetween.ClarkCountycovers8,084squaremiles(mostofthemempty)andhadin1997anestimatedpopulationof1,106,000—60percentofthepeopleinNevada.AnalternativedefinitionofthecityiswhattheU.S.CensusBureaucallstheLasVegasMetropolitanStatisticalArea(1997estimatedpopulation:1,262,099).ThisincludesnotonlyallofClarkCounty,butalsoNyeCountytothenorthandMohaveCountyinAri-zona,whicharepresumedtofallwithinLasVegas’seconomicorbit.Thesedistinctionsareimportant.LasVegasValleyanditsdominantindustrygenerateagreatmanystatistics,somemisleading,othersconflict-ing.Onereasonthestatisticsmaymisleadisthatthosegeneratingorcit-ingthemoftenhavelargeaxestogrind.OnereasontheyoftenconflictisthatpeoplemeandifferentthingswhentheyrefertoLasVegas.WhatImean,andwhatmostpeoplemean,byLasVegasisthedevel-opedportionofLasVegasValley:thefreeway-linkedareawestofLakeMeadthatincludesthefourincorporatedcitiesofClarkCountyaswellasthecontiguousunincorporatedareasofParadise,Winchester,SunriseManor,andSpringValley.Logically,theseareasshouldhavebeenmadepartofthecityofLasVegasin1946,whencasinoandotherpropertyown-erssuccessfullyfoughtoffthefirstofseveraleffortstoannextheStriptothecity.■ ■ ■JanMorrisoncedescribedtheeffectoftheLasVegasStriponwhatcanappear—onceyoumoveawayfromtheradianceofLasVegasBoulevardSouth—tobeadecent,bourgeois,conservative,evenchurchywesterntown.“Itisasthoughsomeinconceivablealienorganismhasfallenupontheolddepottown,”shewrote,“squattingthereathwartthetracksandinfectingeverythingwithsomeincurable,unidentifiablebutnotalto-getherdisagreeablevirus.”Itwasmyintention,intheexperimentthatledtothisbook,topullthisalienorganismoffofthemapofLasVegas—asifonecouldinsertathumbnailundertheStratosphereHotelandTower,justnorthofSaharaAvenue,andpeeloffthemapeverythingdowntotheblackpyramidoftheLuxor,pluswhatevertheCircusCircuspeopleendupbuildingacrossthestreet.Just-off-the-StripgrowthsliketheLasVegasHilton,theRioSuites,theGoldCoast,theMaxim,theSanRemo,theContinental,thenewParis,thesmallerHardRock,andthedefunctDebbieReynoldscasino-hotelswouldpresumablyadheretotheliftedStripandbepeeledoffalongwithit.3b cDavidLittlejohnItwouldnotbeaseasy,figurativelyortheoretically,toremovefromthemapthefictionofDowntown—thewholeFremont/OgdenStreettouristexperience—becauseindigenousreality(poorpeople,pawnshops,prosti-tutes,drugdealers)continuestointrudeonwhatusedtobecalledGlitterGulch.Butmygoalwastoexaminethecityinwhich1.2millionLasVegansactuallylive,beyondtheStripandDowntown.Thelatterhavebeenwrit-tenabout,photographed,mocked,andmarveledoveralmosttodistrac-tion,likethecanalsofVeniceortheskyscrapersofNewYork.In1984,Isawanexhibition,called“DietroIPalazzi”(“BehindthePalaces”),thattooktheperverseapproachofexaminingVenice’suncelebrated,nonde-scriptbuildingsandneighborhoods,thosehiddenbehindthetouristprecincts,where60,000realVenetians—allthatwereleftonthecity’slagoonislandsatthetime—lived,worked,andplayed.ThisiswhatIhaveaimedtodowithGreaterLasVegas.AtfirstIthoughtofthisprojectasapossibleobjectlessonforotherAmericancities,counties,states,andIndianreservationsthatinthepasttwentyyearshavehitontheideaoflegalizedcasinogamblingasasolutiontotheireconomicproblems.Inthisshorttimethespreadofcasinogam-blinginNorthAmericahastakenontheforceofatidalwave.FirstAtlanticCity,in1978;thenIndianreservations(whichcannegotiatethebuildingofcasinosindependentlywiththeirstates);then,after1991,severalmidwesternandsouthernstatesaswellasindividualcountiesandcitiesjoinedNevadainthislatestrushaftergold.Asof1998,fourteenstateshadvotedtolegalizefull-scalecasinogambling,restrictedinmanycasesto“riverboats,”manyofwhichneverleaveport.Indiantribeshaveopenedcasinos—includingthebusiestandmostprofitablecasinointheworld,FoxwoodsinConnecticut—in23states.OffshoreboatscarrygamblersoutofterritorialwatersfromportsinFlorida,Georgia,andNewYork.Originally,IthoughtofcallingthisbookBeyondtheStrip:LearningMorefromLasVegas,implyingbothatributetoandastepbeyondLearningfromLasVegas,thegroundbreakingstudypublishedin1972byRobertVen-turi,DeniseScottBrown,andStevenIzenour,whohadworkedincon-junctionwithsomeoftheirgraduatestudentsatYale.WhatVenturietal.suggested,aftertheirten-daytriptoLasVegasin1968,wasthattheuntidysprawloftheStrip,withitsgiganticflashingneonsigns—signsmoreimportant,bothasmarketingtoolsandworksofart,thantheratherordi-narybuildingsbehindthem—representedalegitimateindigenousAmeri-canartform,whichwassomethingmorethansimplycrude,commercial,andnon-European.Inthedecadethatfollowed,otherobserversoftheAmericanscenetookupthecauseofpopularcommercialartforms.Main4b cIntroductionStreetwasalmostallright;Disneylandwasthemostimportantarchitec-turallandmarkinsouthernCalifornia;comic-bookandgraffitiartistsmer-itedgalleryexhibitions.MTVtaughtusawholenewwayofseeing.InLasVegas,meanwhile,thelarge,elaboratesignsVenturihadadmiredkeptgrowinglargerandmoreelaborate,oftendispensingwithneonaltogetherinfavoroflight-emittingdiodes,inordertocompetewiththemulti-thousand-roomtowerblocksrisingbehindthem.Thebiggestsignofall(afreestandingstructure362feettalland192feetwide),erectedbytheLasVegasHiltonin1993,blewdowninastormthefollow-ingyear.Meanwhile,strangethingswerehappeningtoLasVegasasitspreadfurtheroutfromtheStripandDowntown.Foronething,itbecameoneofthefastestgrowingurbanareasintheUnitedStates.IntheCensusBureau’sestimatesofpopulationgrowthinthefiveyearsafter1990,thecityofLasVegasgrewby27percent;ClarkCountyby33.9percent,andtheLasVegasmetropolitanareaby33.6percent.Inthesameperiod,thenearestcompetitoramongthenation’s100largestcities(Aurora,Col-orado)grewby13percent.Amongcountieswithpopulationsofoverhalfamillion,thenearestcompetitorwasRiversideCounty,California,withanincreaseof17.9%.Between1950and1960,ClarkCounty’sgrowth(165percent)wasexceededbythatoftheboomregionsofBrowardCounty,Florida(FortLauderdale),andOrangeCounty,California.ButnoU.S.countyofcom-parablesizegrewfasterduringthe1960sor’70sandonlyRiversideCountygrewfasterduringthe1980s,whenClarkCounty’sgrowthrateswere115,70,and60percentrespectively.Between1990and1997,theLasVegasMetropolitanStandardAreagrewbymorethan48percent—eightpercentfasterthanitsnearestrival.Overthe45-yearperiod1950-95ClarkCountygrewmorethantwentytimesinsize,from48,000peopleto993,000—arecordnootherlargeU.S.countyevencomesclosetomatching.Oneeffectofthisastonishinggrowthisthatthesecond-largestindus-tryinClarkCountyisconstruction.In1995,permitswereissuedfor29,537newhousingunitsintheLasVegasmetropolitanarea;in1996,32,381,almostexactlyasmanyaswereissuedintheentireLosAngeles-OrangeCounty-Riversidemetropolitanarea,whichhadapopulationthirteentimesthatofLasVegas.GreaterLosAngelesovertookLasVegasin1997,andhousingstartsinfiveothermetropolitanareasexceededbothoftheirfigures.ButalloftheseareashadpopulationsseveraltimesthatofGreaterLasVegas,whichmeansthatLasVegasisbuildingnewhomesatahigherratethananyothercityinthecountry:32,173residentialunitbuildingper-mitswereissuedin1998.5b cDavidLittlejohnAnotherwaytolookatthehousingconstructionboomistojudgehowquicklyacityreplicatesitself.Between1990and1996,GreaterLasVegasincreaseditshousingstockby45.2percent—faraheadoftherateofitsnearestcompetitor,Naples,Florida,with33percent,andmorethandou-blethatofOrlando.AtlanticCity,St.Louis,Biloxi,NewOrleans,Detroit—anyU.S.citymaydecidetopermitcasinogamblingwithinitsbordersoralongitsshores.Butthesecitieswereestablishedonothereconomicandsocialbases,andtheintroductionofcasinoswillnevershapeordefinethemabsolutely,thewaythecasinosofDowntownandtheStriphaveshapedanddefinedLasVegas.MuchofwhathashappenedtoLasVegasinthelastten,twenty,andfortyyearshasbeenduplicatedbyotherboomtownsoftheAmericanSunbelt,citieslikeSanJose,Phoenix,ColoradoSprings,ElPaso,andFortLauderdale.“Destinationresort”communitiesinthesefavoredlati-tudes—notablyDisney’sAnaheimandOrlando—sharemanycharacter-isticswithLasVegas.ButasamplingoftheotherclaimsandstatisticsoftencitedindiscussionsofVegasmayhelpexplainwhyIhavecometoregardthecityasworthyofstudynotasanobjectlesson,butforitsownsake.ManyofthesenumbersandrankingsrefertoClarkCounty(whichisineffectLasVegas)ortothestateofNevada;butalmosttwo-thirdsofNevadansliveinClarkCounty.■Nevadacurrentlyhasthehighestsuiciderateinthecountry—doublethenationalrate.Thisappearstobetrueforeveryagegroup,althoughfully40percentofthesuicidesinNevadaarecommittedbypeopleoversixty-five.Itisoftensaidthattheteen-suiciderate(or,dependingonthesource,therateofsuicideattemptsbyteenagers)inLasVegasisthehighestinthenation,butI’veneverbeenabletoverifythisclaim.■Nevadahasthehighestalcohol-consumptionrateinthecountry,(probablydueinparttotourists),withanattendantrecordforinci-denceofcirrhosisoftheliver.ItrankshighamongAmericanstatesinratesofabortions,teenpregnancies,andbirthstounmarriedmothers—43percentofbirthsin1996,thethird-highestinthecountry.Nevadaalsohasthehighestrateofautomobileaccidentspermilesdriven,whichmayhavesomethingtodowithitsrateofalcoholconsumption,andLasVegashasthefifthhighestair-pollu-tionindexamongAmericancities.Untilrecently,Nevadahadahigherpercentageofsmokersthananyotherstate,andin1997itstillledthenationinpercentageoffemalesmokers—morethandoubleCalifornia’s.LasVegashasfarmorethanitsshareofdeathsfrom6b cIntroductionlungcancer,coronaryarterydisease,andcardiacarrest;LasVegascardiologistThomasAhearnexplains,“Weattractpeoplewhoselifestylesaresomewhatlesshealthythan[the]ideal.”CasinoemployeesinLasVegas,likeairlineflightattendants,aretrainedtouseportabledefilibrators,incasetheyneedtoshockheart-attackvictimsoutofdyingontheirpremises.■LasVegasclaimstobethenumber-onetouristdestinationintheU.S.,withmorethan30millionvisitorsayear(althoughOrlandoandNewYorkcontinuetomakethesameclaim).TerryJicinsky,thechiefnumber-cruncherfortheLasVegasConventionandVisitorAuthority,explainedtomethecomplexmethodologybehindtheLVCVA’sstatisticalestimates.Butstatisticalestimates,howevercarefullydetermined,arenotthesamethingasactualheadcounts,andleaveroomfordispute.■Sinceconventiondelegateshavetoregistertoattend,ontheotherhand,itisclearthatLasVegashasbecomeatleasttherunner-uptoChicagoastheleadingconvention/exhibitionhostinthenation,attractingaboutthreethousandsucheventseachyearforatotalofaboutthreemillionpatrons.ItsmammothcivicconventioncenterissmallerthanMcCormackPlaceinChicago,but(alongwiththepri-vateSands/Venetianfacility)maysurpassitoncethecurrentexpan-sioniscomplete.LasVegas’sannualComdex,acomputerdealers’exhibitionheldeachNovember,istheworld’slargestsuchgathering,attractingmorethan200,000paidvisitors.■LasVegashasmorehotelroomsthananyothercityintheworld(morethanahundredthousandin1998,withtwentythousandmoreeitherplannedorunderconstruction),andthehighestaveragehotel-occupancyrate(87to90percent)ofanyAmericancity.In1995,theZagatGuideestimatedthatitofferedthelowestaveragedailyhotelroomrateofthethirty-threeleadingU.S.visitordestina-tions.LasVegascurrentlycontainsnineoftheworld’stenlargesthotels.In1998,theworld’slargestwasThailand’sAmbassadorCityHotel,butthatmaychangewhenbothphasesofthenewVenetianHotelarecompletedontheStrip.■Nevada’sbankruptcyrate(6.3perthousandpeoplein1997)wasthefourth-highestinthenation,afterthoseofTennessee,Georgia,andAlabama.Thenationalaveragewas4.2perthousand.■AccordingtotheFBI’sUniformCrimeReportsfor1995,LasVegashadthehighesttotalcrimerateandthehighestrateofcrimesagainstpropertyamongallAmericancitieswithmorethan250,000people.PolicereportsforthatyearplacedLasVegasfourthamong7b cDavidLittlejohnU.S.metropolitanareasofoveramillionpopulation—afterMiami,Phoenix,andOklahomaCity—intherateofallseriouscrimes;14.7percentofthesewerecalled“violent.”AlongwiththoseofWashing-tonandAtlanta,thecity’scrimeraterosemarkedlyin1996,despitedecliningcrimeratesinmostAmericancities.Althoughothercitieshadhigherratesofhomicideandotherviolentcrimesin1995,LasVegasrankedlowestinthepercentageof“cleared”violentcrimes,i.e.,crimesleadingtoarrests(1,950of9,421,or20.7percent,againstanationalaverageof45percent).■In1985,Nevada’shigh-schooldropoutrate(teenagers16to19whohavenotcompletedandarenotattendingschool)was25percent.By1992ithaddroppedto14.9percentbutwasstillthehighestinthecountry.ThedropoutrateforClarkCountyin1996-97wasnearly12percent,thehighestinthestate.RecentSATandACTscoresforNevadaseniors(andthepercentageofhigh-schoolgraduatestakingtheseexams)haverankedaroundthemiddleofthenationalstand-ings;infundingperstudent,Nevadahasrisentothirty-fourth.ButfewerNevadahigh-schoolgraduatesgoontocollegethanthoseofanyotherstateexceptAlaska.■Nevadahadin1996boththehighestmarriagerate(tentimesthenationalaverage,dueprimarilytoout-of-statecoupleswhocometoLasVegasandRenotomarry)andthehighestdivorcerate(morethandoublethenationalaverage).Althoughout-of-statersonceflockedtoNevadafor“quickie”divorces,thenumbersnowrepresentprimarilylocalresidents.Thestate’sdivorceratehasdeclinedmarkedlysince1980,asotherstateshaverelaxedtheirregulations.“Peoplecomehereforfreshstarts,”explainedLucyRey,afamilycounselor.“Peoplecomeheretodeclarebankruptcy,peoplecomeheretolosesomethingorsomebody.Andtheydoitsuccessfully.”■AccordingtoMoneymagazine,LasVegashadin1995thesecond-lowestproperty-taxburdenofAmerica’shundredlargestcities,afterKnoxville.■Althoughitistheurbancenterofthethirty-fifth-largestU.S.met-ropolitanareaintermsofpopulation(1996),LasVegashasthetwelfth-busiestairportinthecountry,andtheninth-largestschooldistrict.Itdoesnothaveamajor-leaguesportsteam,anationallyaccreditedsymphonyorchestraoroperacompany,atheatercom-panythatperformsthroughouttheweek,oramajorartmuseum.■LasVegansareoftenblamedforusingmorewaterthantheresidentsofanyothercityintheworld:currently325gallonspercapitaperyear(downfrom360gallonsin1989),asopposedtohalfthatmuch8b cIntroductionorlessforotherwesterncitiessuchasSantaFe,Tucson,ElPaso,andSanDiego.(PhoenixandAlbuquerqueuseabout250gallonsadaypercapita.)CivicdefendersoftenattributeLasVegas’shighlevelsofwateruse,astheydoitscrimerate,tothecity’stourists,buttheirpresenceincreasestheaveragedailypopulationbyatmost25per-cent.Two-thirdsoftheregion’swateruseisdomestic;infact,mostofthatwatergoestokeepfront-yardlawnsgreeninthemiddleofadesert.TheplannersofSummerlin,thehugemaster-plannedcom-munitytothenorthwest,areaimingforwater-uselevelsofone-thirdtheLasVegasnormbymaintainingstrictcontrolsover“desert-friendly”planting.■ ■ ■Idonotpretendthatalloftheseclaimsandstatisticsareaccurate,orremainaccurate.LasVegasisthekindofplacethatgeneratesurbanleg-ends,whichthenbecomeanineradicablepartofitsimage,andwhereotherstatisticschangeasrapidlyasthepopulation.Itisoftenwritten,forexample,thatLasVegashasthe“highestnumberofchurchespercapita”ofanyU.S.city,which,ifitwasevertrue,iscertainlynottruenow:therearemorechurchespercapitainhalfadozencitiesIhaveinvestigated,andprobablyinothers.TheNationalCoalitionAgainstLegalizedGambling,citingasurveyof1998,assertsthat18percentofbankruptciesare“gam-blingrelated”;Nevadacasinointerestsinsistthefigureiscloserto2per-cent.Neithersidehascomeupwithanypersuasiveevidence.TheLasVegasMetroPolicetriesinvaintokillthepersistingmythoftouristsbeingdruggedandhavingtheirkidneysremoved(presumablyforsale).Civicboosters(andnocityspendsmoremoneyperresidentsellingitselftotheoutsideworld)comeupeachyearwithwondrousnewnumberstohelpthemdefineLasVegas’smagicalstatus.Thecity’sdetractors,fortheirpart—inparticular,nowadays,peopleopposedtothespreadofcasinogamblingtootherregions—keepdiscoveringorinventinguglystatisticsandnastyanecdotesaboutthelivesofLasVegans,hopingtowarndecentAmericanselsewhereofthesordiddepthstowhichlegalizedgamblingcanlead.Sixteenofus(andourphotographer)droveorflewdownfromBerkeleyseveraltimesduring1996-97,thenfannedoutbeyondtheever-more-overwhelmingsigns,facades,casinos,andshowroomsoftheStripandDowntownthathadspellboundProfessorVenturi’sYaliesin1968.Who,wewantedtoknow,livedunderallthered-tileroofsrepresentedbythose9b cDavidLittlejohntensofthousandsofbuildingpermits,insidethehousesandcondomini-umsandapartmentbuildingsthateverydayreachedclosertowardsthemountainwallsthatencloseLasVegasValley?Whyhadtheycomehere?Whyhadtheystayed?Whatdidtheydo,atwork,athome,intheirsparetime?Whatdidtheythinkoftheirfamous,theirinfamouscity?Howdidtheyregard,howweretheypersonallyaffectedbytheindustrythatsovis-iblydominatesthis,theultimatecompanytown?■ ■ ■OnceyoupeelofftheStripandDowntownfromamaporbird’s-eyeviewofLasVegas,whatyouareleftwithisbasicallyarectangulargridofboulevardsspacedatone-mileintervals.(Insomeareas,theintervalsvary.Therectan-gulargridisbrokenbyafewjogsandwiggles,aswellasthreemajordiago-nalroutes:LasVegasBoulevard,BoulderHighway,andthenorthernportionofRanchoDrive.Thetwointerstatesflyovereverything.)Inthe1950s,whentheystillreachedonlyafewblocksintothedesert,thebest-knownoftheseboulevardswererenamedafterthehotelsthathadbeenerectedattheirintersectionwiththeStrip—anearlyindicationofLasVegas’sidentityasacompanytown.SanFranciscoStreetbecameTropicanaAvenue;BoggsbecameFlamingo.HalfamilesouthofTropicana,wheretheHaciendaHotelstooduntilitwasblownupin1996,wasHaciendaAvenue.NorthofFlamingo,helpingtoadvertiseotherearlyresorts,wereDesertInnRoadandSaharaAvenue.Oncethemainroadsweretaken,theDunes,Sands,Riviera,CircusCircus,Hilton,andStardustHotelshadtosettleforshortstreetsthatranalongsidetheirproperties.Recently,newhotelshavegiventheirnamestominoraccesslanes.Theothermajoreast-westlinesinthegrid,southofHaciendatotheHendersoncityline,areRussell,Sunset,andWarmSprings.HeadingnorthfromSahara(thecity’ssouthernedge)youcrossCharleston,Bonanza,Owens,LakeMead,Carey,Cheyenne,andCraig.BythetimeyouhavereachedCheyenne(therouteeasttoNellisAirForceBase)theseruler-straightroadstendtobeborderedbyblankmilesofflatdesertscrub.Uphere,yet-to-be-exploitedterrainsvaguesaremarkedonlybyoccasionalsignpostsstuckamongdustyclumpsofsagebrushandtumbleweedballs,advertisingreal-estatedevelopmentsorcandidatesrunningforlastyear’spoliticaloffices.Theseeast-westroadsarecutbysimilar,iflessinteresting,north-southaxes.Withafewkeyexceptions,mostlocal(asdistinctfromtourist)developmenttookplaceontheavenuesrunningeastandwest.Paradise10b cIntroductionandIndustrialRoads,runningoneithersideoftheStrip,carrysomeofitsspillover:parkinglotsandgarages;lesserrestaurants,casinos,andmotels;thesprawlingconventioncenter;theLasVegasHilton;andafairamountofurbandreck.TheeasternmostlineinthegridisNellisBoulevard,whichleadssouthfromtheair-forcebase.AfterNellishitsthediagonalofBoulderHighway,nearthelivelySam’sTowncomplex,thehighwaydemarcatestherestofthevalley’sedge—althoughagreatdealofnewdevelopment,includingtheSamBoydStadium,or“SilverBowl,”andan$18-millionMormontempleconsecratedin1989,hasalreadybegunspreadingtowardsthefoothillseastofBoulderHighwayandthegrid.Formostofthevalley,thewesternlimitofpavedroadsandhabitation(asoftoday;itwillbefurtherwesttomorrow)isDurangoDrive.Largenewhousingtractsinthenorthwest—Summerlin,TheLakes,CanyonGate—havepushedtheboundariesofinhabitedLasVegasthreeorfourmilesbeyondDurangotowardsthemountains.BetweenNellisBoulevardandDurangoDriveyoucross,atmileintervals,Lamb,Pecos,Eastern,MarylandParkway(themostimportantnorth-southboulevard,aftertheStrip);portionsofParadiseandRancho;ValleyView,Decatur,Jones,Rainbow,Buffalo,andCimarron.Here,then,isanoverviewofthe“real”LasVegas,strippedoftheStripandDowntown:twelvewideroads,eachamilefromthenext,runningeastandwest.Everymile,astheycrossoneofthefourteensimilarroadsrunningnorthandsouth,stoplightshelptoguidetrafficintoshoppingmalls,gasstations,andfast-foodrestaurants.Laidacrossthischecker-boardarethreemajordiagonals,aswellasthesnakingloopsoftwointer-statehighways—themeansbywhichpeoplegetinandoutoftown.Along,in-between,and,increasingly,beyondthewidegridlineslivemorethanamillionpeople.ONPLANNING,COMPANYTOWNS,ANDTHEHEAVYHANDOFTHEINDUSTRYYoumightthink,fromtheparadigmaticgridIhavedescribed,thatLasVegaswasamodelofurbanplanning,likeWashing-ton,D.C.,orSavannah.Infact,likeotherSunbeltcitiesdesignedmoreforautomobilesthanforpeople,morebypropertyspeculatorsthanbycityplanners,itoftenlooksanunreadablechaosofnon-planning,inwhichdevelopmentsemergelikerandomsporesmilesfromoneanother,withnothingbutemptydesertinbetween.Almostallnewbuildinghastakenplacealongthemile-apartroads,leavingthecitywithvastbarrenspaces11b cDavidLittlejohnthathaveyettobefilledin.Fromtheair,theedgesofLasVegascanresembleachicken-wirefence,withragsandfeathersofdevelopmentcaughtalongthewires,clusteringwheretheyintersect.Hugetractsofnewhousingareapproved(ClarkCountypridesitselfonhowmuchmorerapidlyitgrantsbuildingpermitsthanitsCaliforniacounterparts)evenwhentheyliefarfromexistingroadnetworks,waterandsewerlines,firestations,andschools,becausethisiswheredevelopersareabletofindthecheapestfederalland.Since1946,theStripcasinosandotherpropertyownerssouthofSaharahavefiercelyresistedabsorptionintotheCityofLasVegas,onthepresumptionthatcountycommissionerswereeasiertobuyandcontrolthancity-councilmembers,andforfearofhavingtopayforLasVegas’sneeds.NotthatthecitiesofLasVegas,Henderson,andNorthLasVegashavebeenmodelsofenlightenedplanning.Eagertoannexnewindustrialparksandmaster-plannedcommunitiesproposedforadjacentdesertlands,theyreadilyamendtheirownmasterplanstosatisfydevelopersandduelwithoneanothertoattractnewbusiness,whichrulesoutanyunified,county-wideplanning.The“FremontStreetExperience,”anextravagantlight-showcanopydesignedtodrawpatronstoDowntowncasinos(paidforinlargepartbytheLasVegasRedevelopmentAgencyandthelocalCon-ventionandVisitorsAuthority),andtheemergenceofnewcasinosinout-lyingneighborhoods,indicatethatthethreecitiesarenolesseagerthanClarkCountytocatertothewishesoftheIndustry.Everyfewyears,thecountyoritscitiesconvenesaseriesof“strategicplanning”workshopsandcommittees,withtheintentionofdevisinglong-rangeschemesforimprovinglifeinLasVegas.In1985,theCityofLasVegasannouncedplansforafuturistic“maglev”(magneticallylevitated)people-mover,includingadowntowntransportationcenterwherethesys-tem’scoacheswouldconnectwithefficientbusesandquainttrolleys.Onlyonepartoftheprojectwaseverbuilt;itwasthentorndown(atacostof$4million)afterStripcasinomagnatesobjected.Twoyearslater,theDown-townplanwasexpandedtoincludeaFloridadeveloper’sproposedtwo-square-block“festivalmarketplace.”Thecasinoheopenedthere(withagenerouscitysubsidy)declaredbankruptcyafterfourmonths.In1989,agroupof300citizensconvenedbyboththecityandthecountymetthroughouttheyeartodrawupaplancalled“LasVegas:2000andBeyond.”Someofthe110actionitemstheyendedupproposingwereeitherbanalorunattainable;butmostofthemwerereasonable,andsomewereessential.Manyoftheirrecommendationshavebeenimple-mented—except,ofcourse,thingslikecity-countyconsolidation,oratleastcoordinatedplanning;aworkablemass-transitsystem;aschemefor12b cIntroductiongridlock-freestreets;aregionalparksystem;alternativestosuburbansprawl;and,mostimportantly,arevisioninNevada’sgambling-dependenttaxstructure,whichmightenableLasVegastoobtainthebillionsofdol-larsitrequiresfornewandimprovedroadsandschools,aswellaswater,sewer,andpowerlines.Eightyearsclosertothemillennium,anothermeetingwasconvened(called“Preview’97”)atwhichadozenhigh-poweredspeakersoffereddirewarningsaboutthefutureofLasVegas.By1997“infrastructure”hadbecomealocalbuzzword,ascasinopresidentsandpropertydevelopers,secondedbypunditsandpoliticians,expressedcommonfearsthattheval-leymightbegrowingtoofast—thoughnoonewantedtobethefirsttosuggestcontrols,letalonelimitstofuturegrowth.“Weneedtotakealookathowmanypeoplethisvalleycanholdbeforeitgetsdangerous,”thegatheringwastoldbyStephenWynn,presidentofMirageResorts,whosehotelsemployedatthetimemorethaneighteenthousandofthosepeople.“Wecan’tseeifwecanfillupeveryinchofdesertwithhousesandshop-pingcenters.”Thegoalwastogetmoretaxmoneyoutofsomebody—preferablysomebodyelse—topayfortheessentialfacilitiesallthesepeoplerequire(roads,water,schools,someformofmasstransit),atafig-urethenestimatedat$7billion,or$7,000foreachtax-resistantcitizen.In1983thecounty’sstaffofprofessionalplannersdrewupdrewacom-prehensivemap(approvedbythePlanningCommissionandreevaluatedeachyear),indicating(1)whichsectorsofunincorporatedterritorytheyregardedassuitablefordevelopment;(2)semiruralareaswhereexpansionmighttakeplace,onceserviceswereinplace;and(3)vastoutlyingareastheyhopedtoretain,ifnotasemptyspace,atmostasequestrian-orientedranches(or“ranchettes”)ofanacreormore.Theplanners’goalwastodirectmostnewcomerstoalready-populateddistrictsinordertomini-mizebothsprawlandthecostofextendingservices.ButJeffHarris,headofthecounty’slong-rangeplanningeffort,admittedthatifsufficientpres-surewasbroughttobear,outlyingareaswouldberezonedtoaccommo-datelargedevelopers.“TheBoard[ofCountyCommissioners]hasbeenprettygoodaboutretainingour‘no-growtharea’rightnow,”hesaidin1997,“withtheexceptionofthoselarge,majorprojectswhichhaveeconomiesofscale,andthebucksbehindthem.Ofcourse,whentheydobuildsomething,itjustblowsusalltohellanyway.”TheintroductionofgiganticnewresidentialprojectslikeSummerlinorLakeLasVegasobligesplannerstoripuptheirmapsandstartover.Theownersofbothofthesedevelopmentsaskedtobeannexedtoadjacentcities,whicharecurrentlyperceivedasmorehospitabletolarge,master-plannedcommunitiesthanthecountyis.Speakingforthecounty,Harris13b cDavidLittlejohninsists,“WewouldneverhaveallowedLakeLasVegas”—a$4-billionoasisofwealthslatedtobebuiltarounda320-acreartificiallakewithfivegolfcoursesandsixresorthotels,seventeenmilessoutheastoftheStrip.Harrismayprivatelyharborno-growthideals,butofcoursehecan’tadmittothatandkeepworkingforClarkCounty.Talkingabouttheso-calledsecondstraw—aprojectedsecondpipelinefromLakeMead,designedtoaccommodateimaginedfuturewaterneeds—heconfessed,“Partofmedealswiththegrowthside,andsaysit’dbeagreatwaytocon-trolgrowth—nottoputthedamnthingin.”Butheknowsit’sgoingtohappen.Thecounty,hesays,slippingintoVegasese,is“bettingonthecome”:budgetingforanewpipelineonthegamblethatwaternotyetallottedwilleventuallyarrive.DL:Yousayyou“assessgrowthimpacts,”butthenwhatcanyoudowithyourassessments?InCalifornia,peoplecanholdupcontro-versialnewdevelopmentsforyearswithlawsuits,anddemandsforenvironmentalimpactreports.JH:Wehaveadifferentprocesshere,adifferentphilosophy.Itakemydirectionfromtheboard.Ihavenoabilitytolimitgrowth.DL:Youcan’ttellpeoplenottocome,ofcourse.Butyoucanmakeexpansiondifficult,asthey’vedoneinPortland[Oregon]orBoul-derCity.JH:That’snottheboard’sdirection.Theirjob,andthereforemyjob,istoaccommodategrowthinLasVegasValley.Tosustainit.DL:Sothetwo-millionpopulationprojections—officiallythatdoesn’tbotheryou?JH:No.Welooktolimitingfactors.Welooktolandavailability.We’vedrawnalinewecalltheUltimateGrowthBoundary—whichofcourseitmayormaynotbe.It’sdeterminedbytopography,administrativeboundaries:RedRock,Nellis,thebombingrange,LakeMeadtotheeast.Withinthatareawestillhavelotsofavail-ableland.DL:Andasforwater,youbuythewaterdistrict’sargumentthat“wecangetitbecausewecanpayforit”?JH:Yes.Moneyistheonlylimitingfactor.Andformanypropertyownershere,moneyisnotaproblem.Theyarewillingtoinvestmillionsinpropertyandjustholdontoit,earningnothingfromit,bettingonthefuture.Andthattellsyoualot.14b cIntroductionItisonlybymetaphoriclicensethatLasVegas,likeLosAngelesorWash-ington—twootherAmericancitiesonwhichthelabelisfrequentlypinned—canbecalleda“companytown.”Thiscountryhasalonghistoryofgenuinecompanytowns,mostofthemoriginallybuilt,owned,andcontrolledentirelybyminingorlumbercompaniestoprovidehomesandotherservicesfortheworkerstheyneededtoattract.InTheCompanyTownintheAmericanWest(1966),JamesB.Allendescribes191suchtowns,somedismantled,someabandonedandinruins,somesoldofftotheirres-idents,andsomestillfunctioningascompanytownsatthetime,withpopulationsofafewhundredpeople;theseincludecopper-miningandsmeltingtownsinArizonaandNevada,lumber-milltownsinCaliforniaandtheNorthwest,andcoal-miningtownsinColorado,NewMexico,Utah,andWyoming.Inmostofthesetowns,everyhouse,store,utility,andpublicservicewasatonetimeownedbyeitheralocalentrepreneuroralargenationalcorporation(PhelpsDodge,KennecottCopper,Ana-conda,PacificLumber,InternationalPaper,Georgia-Pacific,KaiserSteel).Someevenissuedtheirownscrip(thinkcasinochips)toserveasmoneyincompanystores.Henderson,Nevada—nowapartofGreaterLasVegas—beganlifeasacompanytown;so,inaway,didBoulderCitytothenorth.LasVegaswasoriginallyownedbyarailroad.AtonetimepeopleeventalkedofMontanaasa“companystate,”sogreatwastheholdofAnacondaCopperoveritslegislatureandnewspapers.Whenthestatelegislaturerejectedthecompany’splansforareservoirin1969,onereporterwrote,“Noonecouldrememberanimpertinenceofthatorderbefore.”Ineasternstates,townsandcitiesgrewupundertheownershipandcontrolofmanufacturingenterprises,whosenamestheysometimesbore—Pullman,Illinois;HersheyandBethlehem,Pennsylvania;CorningandSteinway,NewYork.Withdifferingdegreesofbenevolenceandoccasionalgesturestowarddemocracy,theownersofthesetownswerealsotheirmanagersandcityofficials.Theydeterminedrentsandregulations,hiredthepolice,appointedtheschoolboard,andlaydownmoralcodesregardingthingslikedrinkingandprostitution.Peddlersandsolicitorswerebanned,andunionswereunwelcome—afactmadeclearbythePullmanCompanystrikeof1894,inwhichfederaltroopswerecalledintoputdownstrikers.Whatisnowcalledpaternalismledsomeofthesetownstoprovidehospi-tals,churches,andschools,parksandrecreation,inadditiontoprofitablecompanystores.Allen’ssummaryofthe“intangiblespirit”ofagenuinecompanytownmayhaveacertainresonanceforvisitorstoLasVegas:15b cDavidLittlejohnInthecompanytown…thereisasomewhatintangibleovertonewhichseemstorunthroughallphasesofitslifeandisdefinitelyconnectedwiththecompletedominanceofasinglecompany….Itmightbedescribedasthecompletesaturationbythecompanyofthetown,itsinhabitants,andallitssurroundings—thecompletedominanceofthebusinessofthecompanyineverythingthatisseenortalkedabout….Whenvisitingatypicalcoppertown,forexample,apersonfirstdrivesthroughmilesofbarrendesert,knowingthatattheendofthenarrowhigh-wayisthesolereasonfortheroad’sexistence….Inmanycompanytownsthewhistleatthecompanyplantisaregularpartofcommunitylife.Itnotonlydeterminestheshifts,whichinturnreg-ulatefamilylife,butitalsotellstimeandprovidesacurfew….Allthisisonlynaturaltothelong-timeresident,butthevisitorcannothelpobservingthatthisillusivebutveritablesaturationbycompanybusinessofeverythingisaveryrealanddistinguishingfeatureinthecompanytown.Theterm“companytown”hasbeenenlargedinrecentdecadestosig-nifynotsomuchthehistoric,company-ownedtown—ofwhichveryfewareleft—asthecompany-dominatedtown,likeRochester,NewYork(EastmanKodak),Poughkeepsie,NewYork(IBM),Flint,Michigan(GeneralMotors),Homestead,Pennsylvania,andGary,Indiana(U.S.Steel),orMidland,Michigan(DowChemical).Italsoextendstocitiesvirtuallycreatedbylargegovernmentinstallations,likeHuntsville,Alabama,andLosAlamos,NewMexico.Suchcitieswereinthenewsfrequentlybetweenthe1970sand1990s,becauseofthedisastroussocialandeconomiceffectstheysufferedfromslowdowns,cutbacks,andinsomecasestotalshutdownsofthedominantpowers.TwohundredfiftyAmericantextileplantsclosedduringthe1980s,bringingdevastationtomanyeasternandsoutherncitiesandtowns.Theonce-mightyAmericansteelindustrylaidoff70percentofitsemployeesbetween1950and1995,wreakinghavoconplaceslikeSteeltonandBethlehem,Pennsylvania.Thenear-fatalimpactofGeneralMotors’shutdowninFlintbecamethesubjectofMichaelMoore’shostile1989documentaryRogerandMe—RogerbeingRogerSmith,theelusiveCEOofGeneralMotors.Butte,MontanaproposedmakingagrimtouristattractionoutoftheslagheapsandpollutedopenpitsleftafternearlyacenturyofownershipandexploitationbyAnacondaCopperanditssuc-cessors.ManyofRochester’sculturalinstitutions,foundedbyandkeptafloatonEastmanKodaklargess,bearthenameofthecity’slongtimeeconomicprotector(TheEastmanSchoolofMusic,TheGeorgeEast-manHouse,TheEastman-RochesterOrchestra),andsufferedalongwiththecitywhenKodakradicallydownsizedinthe1980s.16b cIntroduction■ ■ ■LasVegasshouldmostaccuratelybecalleda“single-industrytown,”alongthelinesofLowellandLawrence(textilemills),Brockton(shoes),Pitts-burgh(steel),Detroit(cars),Akron(tires),GrandRapids(furniture),Toledo(glass),Peoria(tractors),orHartford(insurance).Itsdominantindustry—gambling,andservicinggamblers—isdividedamongaboutadozenownersorco-ownersofmajorStriphotelsandafewlocallybasedorfamily-ownedoff-Stripcompanies,backedupbyslot-machinemanu-facturersandsimilaradjuncts.Butsingle-industrytownsarenolessvul-nerabletotheficklewindsandwhimsoftheglobaleconomythansingle-companytowns.(Detroitistheglaringexample,butHoustonlostmorethan200,000jobsduringthe1980soilcrisis.)AsClarkCountyschoolsuperintendentBrianCramlikestosay,“Thecasinosareoursteelmills.”Thisiswherehishigh-schoolstudentslookforjobs;thisisthesacredcowallNevadapoliticianstreatwithdeference;thisistheindustryLasVegasdependsonforitssurvival.Becauseofthehorrorstoriesofthe1980sandthelegendsofindustrialtyrannyidentifiedwithplaceslikePullmanandLowell,thephrase“com-panytown”hasbecomeatermofabuse.Fewgrown-upcitieswanttobethoughtofassingle-company(orevensingle-industry)towns.Econo-mistsandbankersadvisethemto“diversify”asacushionagainstfutureshocks.“Thecompanytownisafundamentallyflawedeconomicorganism,”wroteaBusinessWeekreporterofPoughkeepsiein1995(“TheTownIBMLeftBehind”).“Dominantemployersfosterdependencyintheircommu-nities,dullingtheincentivetotakerisks.”“Companytowns,”wroteWilliamFulton(“OntheManifestDestinyofVegas,”Governing,Octo-ber1995),“onlygrowbeyondtheirrootswhenthepoliticiansstopgivingthecompanyeverythingitwants.”■ ■ ■LasVegas’sbest-knownnewspapercolumnists,JonRalstonandJohnL.SmithoftheReview-JournalandMikeO’Callaghan(aformertwo-termgovernor)andJeffGermanoftheSun,arenotafraidtotakeontheover-whelmingpoliticalinfluenceoftheIndustry,andthetimidityorimpo-tenceofmostelectedofficialsinaddressingit.Infact,likemanyLasVegans,theysometimesseemalmostcynicallyresignedtobothsituations.“Thereareafewforcesinthecity,buttheonethatmovesthemountains,17b cDavidLittlejohntheonethatmakesthesunrise,isthegamingindustry,”saysSmith.“TheIndustryisubiquitous.Themovieindustrydoesn’thaveone-tenththecloutinL.A.thattheIndustryhashere.”DoesthegamingindustrycontrolanexcessofpoliticalpowerinClarkCounty?Inthespringof1997,Iposedthatquestiontoanumberofwell-educatedLasVegans.“Askthestate’sgovernor,SteveWynn,whathethinks.Ofcoursegam-ingcontrolsanexcessofpoliticalpowerinClarkCounty!”“Thegamingindustrycontrolsthepoliticalsystem,absolutely.Thus,itisresponsibleformostofthenegativemanifestationsoflifeinClarkCounty.”“OilcontrolsAlaskaasgamingcontrolsNevada,andthatwillneverchange.”“ThegamingindustrynotonlycontrolsanexcessofpoliticalpowerinClarkCounty,ithasspreaditsbehind-the-scenestentaclestosuchenter-tainmentandbasichouseholdresourcecentersasfavoriteNFL-teamsportsbarsandsupermarketslots.”“Obviously.Politicianssupportcontributors,resultingingaminghav-ingsignificantcontrol.”“Thefactthatthecitywon’tpressannexationofthecountyandtakeresponsibilityfortheStripisevidencethatthecitydoesn’tbelieveithasthepowerorstrengthtoimpacttheindustry.”Otherscitednon-gamblingconstituenciesthatheldwhattheybelievedtobeequalorcomparablepoliticalinfluenceandpower:theMormons,theunions,themininginterests.“Ibelievethelanddevelopershaveafirmergriponlocalpoliticsthanthegamingcorporations,whichareoftenremotelyheadquartered.”Stillothersregardedthepropositionastrue,butinnowaysurprising,unique,orevenimproper.“Whynot?It’sthemajorindustry.”“Unfortu-natelytrue;wherethereismoneythereispower.”“Moneytalks.”“Althoughnotadmirable,itishardlysurprising.”“Oureconomicbaseisgamingandtourism.Withoutitwecannotsup-portthecommunity,therewouldbenoreasonforLasVegas.”“Obviously:withoutgamingNevadawouldbethepooreststateintheUnion.Exceptforgamingallwehaveisalittlefarming,ranching(BLM[TheU.S.BureauofLandManagement]controlsthevastmajorityofland),mining,military(particularlybombingandgunneryranges),and,perhaps,nuclear-wastedisposal.”“Yes,itistrue—buthewhopaysthepipercallsthetune—seeDetroitandautomobiles,BayAreaandhi-techindustry,Portlandandtimber,etc.Whywoulditbeanydifferenthere?Gamingisthereasonthiscityexists18b cIntroductionandthepoliticallandscapeisheavilyinfluencedbygaming.Isitexcessive?No,inmyopinion.”(Fromthevice-presidentforpublicrelationsatamajorcasino-hotel.)LetterstotheeditorsofthelocaldailyandweeklypaperssuggestthatmanyLasVegansaresuspiciousofthepoliticalcloutofthecasinos,justascitizenselsewherearesuspiciousofthepowerandinfluenceofwealthybusinessmenandcorporationsintheircommunities.Butapartfromsuchpredictableexpressionsofopinion,isthereanyevidencethatthegamblingindustrydoes,infact,exertthekindofcontroloverLasVegasoneidenti-fieswiththeproprietorsofacompanytown?■ ■ ■BusinesspeoplefromoutsideNevadaareoftensurprisedtolearnhowquicklyandreadilybuildingpermitsaregrantedinLasVegasformulti-thousand-roomhotelsandadditions,withlittleornodemandforthekindof“environmental-impactreports”theirbuilderswouldbeobligedtoofferelsewhere.Althoughregulationsandinspectionsweretightenedafteraseriesofdisastrous,image-blackeninghotelfiresintheearly1980s,thesethirty-tofifty-storytowersarestillapproved,erected,andopenedforbusinesswithremarkablespeed.Newhotels,moreover,seemconsistentlyabletopersuadethecountyplanningcommissiontobuildnewaccessroadsforthem,tocondemnlesserpropertiestoaccommodatethem,toalterbuildingcodes,ortoblockofforrerouteexistingstreets.ThestruggleforcontrolofthesidewalksalongandintersectingLasVegasBoulevardSouthoffersaninterestingillustrationofthepowerofthelargerhotels.In1993MGMGrandpersuadedthecountycommis-sionerstodeclarethesidewalkalongsideitshotelprivatepropertyinreturnforaneasementguaranteeingpublicaccess—anagreementthehotelhasfeltfreetoamendinordertokeepaway“undesirable”membersofthepublic,suchasstrikers,sidewalkvendors,andsex-industryleafleters.In1994,thehoteldemandedthatCulinaryUnionpicketersbearrestedfortrespassingonitssidewalk.Obligingthehotel,Metropolicearrestedmorethanfivehundredstrikers.WhenaNevadadeputyattorneygeneralprotestedtheseprovisionsasunconstitutional,hewasaskedtoresign;whenherefused,hewasfired.In1992,MirageResortsaskedforandobtainedfromthecountyplan-ningcommissionerspermissiontobuildbleacherson“their”sidewalk(infrontoftheTreasureIslandHotel)toaccommodateviewersofthepopu-19b cDavidLittlejohnlar“volcano,”whicheruptsevery90minutesafterdark—despitethebot-tleneckitwouldcreateinpedestriantraffic.“Someoneelsewillhavetoworryaboutthetraffic,”ownerSteveWynntoldthepliablecommission-ers,wholaternarrowedthebusyboulevardforapedestrianpathbehindthebleacherssothatpeoplecouldstillwalkbyduringeruptions.Threeyearslater,MirageResortsgotthestateDepartmentofTransportation(backedbytheAttorneyGeneral)torelinquishcontrolofthesidewalkaltogethersothattheycouldbanT-shirtvendorsandleafleterswhomightcompetewiththeirshow,orlowerthetoneoftheirpieceoftheStrip.LasVegashotel-securityforceshavetherighttodetainpeopletheyregardasobnoxiousfrominfrontofaswellasinsidetheirproperties.In1997,theowneroftheformerSandsHotelproperty(nowtheVenetian)askedtheplanningcommissiontodeclarethesidewalkinfrontofhisplannedhotelprivateaswell.Itishardtoimaginedepartmentstores,theaters,officebuildings,orhotelsinNewYorkorChicagobeingallowedtonegotiateagreementslikethese.Ingeneral,the“understanding”betweenthemajorcasino-hotelsofLasVegasandthecityandcountypoliceappearstofavortheformerautomati-callyinanydisputeswithpeopletheyregardasbadnews.Afterninehundredstrikerswerearrestedduringatwo-monthstrikeagainstthehotelsin1984,oneunionleaderprotested,“Fromjudgestocops,thestatewascompletelyalignedwiththecasinoowners.”Casinoshavetherighttoejectorbaranyonefromtheirpremisesforanyreason(includingbeingcleverenoughtowinregularlyatblackjack)andtodetainundesirablesintheirownlock-uproomsuntilthepolicearrive.Thestateattorneygeneralwillpursuevisitorsaccusedofcheatingatcardsorwritingbadchecksacrossstatelinesonthecasinos’behalfineffortstoobtainrepaymentorextradition.InalmosteveryLasVegas-basedpoliticalraceinrecentyears—forcity,county,state,ornationalcongressionaloffice—casinoownershavepro-videdabouthalfthecampaignfundsforwinningcandidates.Thepoint,insistsRichardBunker,chiefspokesmanforthemajorcasinossince1987,isnottoinfluencelegislationdirectly,buttobuyaccess.“WhenIinter-viewacandidate,Idon’tsay,‘YoumustvoteformeoneveryissuethatIbringtoyou.Iwantyoutoknowthatmycontributiontoyougivesmeonething,andthat’saccess.IknowthetimeconstraintsinCarsonCity[thestatecapitol,wherethelegislaturemeetsonlyforfivemonthseveryotheryear].IwanttobeabletotellyouIneedtenminutes,orthirtyminutes.IfIcannotpersuadeyouofthemeritsofwhatI’mdoinginthattime,Idonotexpectyoutosupportme.’”AndyetBunkeralsodeclaredthattheNevadaResortAssociation—thecasinoowners’lobbyinggroup,ofwhichheispresident—isabouttoget20b cIntroductiontougherwithwhatitperceivesasunsympatheticpoliticians.“Earlyon,ifpeoplewerereallyobjectionabletowhatwe’retryingtodo,wewouldtrytodefeattheminelections,”hesays.“Andweweresuccessful.”Hedescribedthewaysbywhichhislate,legendarypartner,lobbyistJimJoyce,usedtoapplymuscletolegislatorsand“takecare”ofcandidates—whichsometimesmeanttakingthemoutofoffice.“Theninety-sevensessionhasbroughtmetotherealitythatitwastimetogobacktoplayingthewaywehadtoplaybefore.We’vealreadyputthewordoutwiththetwostatesen-atorsthatwewillnotsupportthem.AndIbelievethatbecauseofthat,toalargemeasure,oneofthemistalkingaboutrunningforsomethingelse,andoneofthemistalkingaboutnotrunning.”AlthoughtheNevadaResortAssociationdoesnotitselfmakecam-paigncontributions,itwillbeveryexplicitinitsadvicetoitsmemberproperties—whichincludealmostallthemajorcasino-hotelsinNevada—aboutwheretheirdonationsshouldgo.“Wearegoingoutandtakingaveryfirmpositioninanynumberofraces,”Bunkersaid.Ofcourse,otherinterestedgroups,liketheCulinaryUnionandtheSouthernNevadaHomebuildersAssociation,dothesamething,butnoothergrouphastheresourcesorpersuasivepowersoftheassembledown-ersofthecasino-hotels.In1996,theCulinaryUnionmountedasuccessfulcampaigntodefeatanincumbentstatesenatorwhowasalsoananti-unionhotelowner;in1998,theunion’seffortswereinfluentialinanumberofraces.ButthegeneralperceptioninClarkCountyisthatnoonehasachanceofwinningorholdingontoelectedofficewithoutthesupportoftheIndustry.EvenoffendinganindustryleaderlikeStephenWynn(whosesensitivitytooffense,andtasteforlitigation,havehelpedmakehimoneofLasVegas’smorecolorfuloverlords)canspelltheendofapoliticalcareer.“InNevada,”wrotecolumnistJohnL.Smithinhisbiogra-phyofWynn—forwhichhispublisherwassued—“afewpoliticianssur-vivemorethanonecampaignwithouttheblessing,andthefinancialbacking,ofthestate’slargestindustry.”HecitedthecaseofJanLavertyJones,themayorofLasVegas,whodecidedtorunforgovernorin1994.“Shecriticizedacoupleofgamingpeople—gamingattorneys—fortheso-called‘fixed’natureofthesystem,andsaidsomethingsthatIconsiderquiteaccurate.Butshechangedhertuneveryshortly.Shewasbasicallyhoundedintosilence,andendeduplosingtheelectionbyaverylargenumber.”(MayorJoneslostanotherraceforgovernorin1998.)TheNevadaResortAssociationexpectsthepositionsofelectedoffi-cials(includingjudges)tomirroritsownascloselyaspossibleonsuchissuesasgamingtaxes,buildingpermits,hotelandcasinoregulation,traf-ficaccess,andkeepingtheStrip(andatleasttherelevantblocksofFre-21b cDavidLittlejohnmontStreet)clearofundesirables—picketers,prostitutes,drugdealers,teenagers,vendors,beggars,andleafleters.Inrecentyears,associationlob-byistshavepersuadedthestatelegislaturetovoteforastrictlimitonthepunitivedamagesthatcanbeawardedtoguestsinjuredintheirpremises,andtorestrictthenumberofnewcasinosthatcanbebuilt,withexcep-tionsforcasinoscurrentlyproposedforpropertiesownedbytheirmem-bersandfriends.WiththehelpofacongressmanfromCalifornia,theassociationwonin1997along-sought$160millioninterchangeatBarstow(anotoriousbottleneckfortouristsfromsouthernCalifornia).Itisalwayspushingforexpandedterminals,gates,andrunwaysatMcCar-ranAirport.BothoftheseeffortsareintendedtoeaseandincreasetheflowofgamblerstoLasVegas.Buttheassociationremainseveralertagainsttheimpositionofnewtaxesorregulations.Itlostafightagainsta¼-centraiseinsalestaxestopayfornewwaterresourcesin1996-98.■ ■ ■EachofthechaptersthatfollowwasintendedtoexamineoneaspectoflifeinLasVegasawayfromtheStripandDowntown.Butnomatterhowfarremovedthesubject,referencetotheseplacesoftenturnedouttobeimpossibletoavoid.ItisontheStrip,afterall,thatmanyimmigrantsfromMexicofindjobs.Itisherethatteenagerscruise;thatunionmembersworkorpicket;thatsecurityguardskeepwatch.Whenallthereportswerein,IwasstruckbythedegreetowhichtheheavyhandoftheIndustrycontrolledvirtuallyeveryareaoflifeinLasVegasValley.Mostofthecrimescommitted(ordeterred)insidecasinosareunderthecontrolofthecity’shundredsofprivatesecurityguards,whocomposeanarmyfourtimesthesizeofthecountypoliceforce.ButtheburdensplacedontheMetroPoliceareconsiderablyincreasedbythenatureofcasinovisitors,bothcriminalsandtheirvictims.InnootherAmericancitydoessomuchactualcashfloatsofreelyabout.Inheressayonpoliceandsecurityguards,HeatherWorlddescribesapopulartrickplayedontouristsatMcCarranAirport,inwhichapairofthievessurroundsanunwittingvictimattheX-rayconveyorbeltanddelaysthetouristlongenoughtosnatchasuitcaseorbag.“ThisisLasVegas!”detectivesKevinJohnsonandKeithBlascoeofMetro’stourist-safetyunitexclaiminuni-son.“Peoplecomeheretogamble,”saysJohnson,“todoubletheirmoney.They’vealwaysgotacoupleofthousandU.S.onthem.”Teenagersarenotlegallyallowedtogamble,oreventolingeronthesidewalksoftheStripafter9PM.Iftheyriskeitherdiversion,theymay22b cIntroductionfindthemselveshustledoutofcasinosbyvigilantsecurityguardsorsentontheirwaybycruisingMetropolice.Butthosewhosejobitistoworryaboutlocalteenagersclaimthattheirproblemsareintimatelytiedupwiththeunnaturalworkhours,thetransientworkforce,andtheunusualvaluesofagambling-basedcity.YoungresidentsoftenfeelthatLasVegasissofixatedonsellingadultentertainmenttoadultcustomersthatitdoesn’tevenwantthemaround.AlocalfamilytherapisttoldMarieSanchez,“Peoplecomeheretoworkandgetcaughtupingamblingveryearly.Thisiswhatwedobesthereandit’sveryseductive.Adultsgamble,losemoney,thenlosetheirjobinthisright-to-firetown.Thentheirfamilygoes.That’swhatcausesalotofsuicideanddepression….“Thistownassimilatesitsown.Atwenty-oneyearoldclientofminewasthinkingofgettingout.Buthismother,whoishighupinacasinohere,gothimajobasavaletparkingcars.He’smakingsixtythousanddol-larsayear—toparkcars!Idon’tseehimleaving.LasVegaskidswillgrowupandbecomepartoftheindustry,andthey’llcontinuetoperpetuategenerationsofLasVegaskidswhogrowupandassimilatebackintothestructure.They’llcontinuetoperpetuatethethingsthistownneedstosupportitseconomicbase”(“GrowingUpinLasVegas”).AlthoughmanyolderLasVeganswetalkedto—particularlythebetter-offandbettereducated—insistthattheyhavenothingtodowiththecity’scasinoculture(“Wesometimesgofortheshows”),manyresidentsadmitthatneighborhoodcasinoshavebecometheseniorcentersofchoiceforthousandsoflocalelderlypeople.AsMichelleLingexplainsin“Bingo!,”small-stakesgambling,particularlyatbingo,videopoker,andquarterslots,hasbecomeanessentialpartoflifeofagreatmanyLasVegansoversixty-five.Itprovidesthemwithfriendlycompany,freetransportation,cheapfood,andadegreeofentertainmentandexcitementthattothemseemwortheveryquartertheylose,infinitelypreferabletothecounty’sseniorcentersorstayingathomewatchingTV.Onewell-knownprofes-sorattheUniversityofNevadaatLasVegas(UNLV)—whoseagedmotherlovedtakingthefreeshuttlestoSam’sTown—insistedthatthegreatestvalueofmanyneighborhoodcasinoswas,infact,theirfunctionassocialcentersforoldpeoplelivingalone.Hetoldmeofoneolddearwhohadbecomesuchapetofthedealers,runners,andwaitressesatherfavoritecasinothatmanyofthemshowedupatherfuneral.Neighborhoodcasinos,whichremainlargelyunknowntovisitorsfamiliarwiththelegendaryestablishmentsontheStripandDowntown,havebecomeasubstantialpartoftheIndustry.In1997,thelargerneigh-borhoodcasinos—particularlytheBoulder,Palace,Sunset,andTexasSta-tionHotels,alongwithSam’sTowntothesouthandtheSantaFetothe23b cDavidLittlejohnnorth—wereshowinggreaterprofitincreasesthanmanyoftheirbetter-knownbrothers.ThecasinosatSam’sTown,ontheBoulderHighway,andatthehandsomenewSunsetStation,inHenderson,arelargerandmoreprofitablethanmostoftheircounterpartsintown.Inlate1997,bill-boardsalongI-95temptedlocalstoanewneighborhoodcasinobyasking,“AreyouTiredoftheStripToo?”TheHispanicimmigrantswhothrongtoLasVegasinsearchofwork,asBillDauberpointsoutin“ElPueblodeLasVegas,”haverarelybeenabletobreakintohigh-payingbuilding-tradeunionjobs,letaloneupper-level,high-visibilitypositionsinthebighotels.Buttheynowrepresentthelargestsinglegroupamongthetensofthousandsoflow-echelon,back-of-the-househotelworkers:maids,porters,dishwashers,busboys,janitors,stockclerks,laborers,andthelike.Suchjobsmaybelookeddownonbyunemployedblackorwhiteworkers,buttheyusuallyrepresentaneconomicstepupforMexicanAmericansandtheirneighborsfromsouthoftheborder.Thosewhoreportonsuchgroupsaslaborunions,homelesspeople,teenagers,andthecity’sblackpopulationlearnedhowLasVegas’sall-absorbingconcernforits“image”canaffectsuchpeople’slives.Theylearnedofthedegreetowhichpoliticians,police,andhotelmanagerswillcollaboratetokeeptheStrip“visitor-friendly,”whichmeans,amongotherthings,clearedofpanhandlers,protesters,andlocalteenagers—particu-larlyblackandHispanicteenagers—whomightfrightenout-of-towngamblersaway.Acounselorfromacommunityhealthcentersaid,“Ninetypercentofmyclientshavegamblingandalcoholproblems.Drugs,meth,cocaine.Heroinisstartingtocomeback.Gamblingisoneofthewaystoraisemoneyforthis.Justbeingaroundthecasinostheyhaveaccesstofreealco-hol.”Thosewhoworktofindjobsforthepoorworrythatthefirstday’swageswillbelosttothelureofthecasinos.“Allyouneedisfourorfivebucksconvertedintoquartersandthere’sthisfantasyofhittingthejack-pot”(MalcolmGarcia,“DownandOutinVegas”).Otherphenomenacoveredinthepagesthatfollowarerelatednotsomuchtothegamblingindustryastotheremarkablefactof“boomtown”growthitself,aconditionLasVegasshareswithanumberofothercitiesoftheAmericanSunbelt.Theseincludesuchissuesastherapidsurgeinnewresidentialhousing;aschoolsystemunabletocopewithtidalwavesoftroublednewstudents;thefundamentalproblemofprovidingwaterformillionsofpeoplemovingintoadesert;andnewnondenominationalchurchesthataretryingtosupplyeverythingthesepeoplehavelost,orleftbehind.24b cIntroductionSoalthoughmostpeopleinthis“companytown”donotworkforthecompany,andmayevenpretendtoignoreit,isobviousthattheeconomicpowerofthegamblingindustryliesbehindbothClarkCounty’sextraor-dinarygrowthandthecombinationofprosperity,misery,andchaosthathascomeinitswake.Ifnothingelse,theconstantpublicclamortohavetheIndustrysubsidizeagreatershareofgrowth-relatedcostssuggeststhatlocalcitizensregarditsroleascentral,likethatoftheall-powerfulcourtsofseventeenth-centuryEnglandandFrance.Thisiswherethepowerandwealtharecentered;sothisiswheredecisionsmustbemade.Manypeoplebelievethat“casinovalues”haveaffectedtensofthousandsofpeoplewhohaveneversetfootinacasino.TheestablishmentsalignedwiththeNevadaResortAssociationandtheFremontStreetExperiencehavemademajoreffortstoridtheirsidewalksandpremisesofprostitutes;andyetmostLasVegansstillregardthegamblingindustryandthesexindus-tryofClarkCountyasintimatelyrelated.THEVOICEOFTHEMIDDLECLASSOneriskofthisprojectwasthat,infocusingonwhatseemedtousespeciallyinterestinggroupsofpeople(adolescentsandoldpeople,sexworkersandtheindigent,Westsideblacksandnorth-sideHis-panics),institutions(likethenewnon-denominational“megachurches”),orproblems(the24-hourworkcycle,overstretchedschools,anendan-geredwatersupply),wewouldendupignoringtheopinionsandconcernsofthemajorityofLasVegans.Withinthismajorityareagreatmanycon-tentedmiddle-classcitizenswhoinsistthat,apartfromtheStripandDowntown—whicharereally“justfortourists”—LasVegasisa“townlikeanyother,”fullofgood-hearted,hard-workingfamilypeoplewhoareactiveinchurchesandcommunityorganizations,whoworkforagreatnumberofgoodcauses,andwhosechildrenjointheScoutsandplayLittleLeagueball.Exceptinangryletterstotheeditorwrittenindefenseoftheircity—andfewpeopleIhavemetinthiscountryareasdefensiveastheLasVegasmiddleclass—suchpeoplearerarelyheardfrominarticlesorbooksaboutthecity.WehearfromSteveWynnandthehookers,WayneNewtonandLocal226,MikeTysonandthehigh-rollerswhoflyintotownforhisfights;butverylittlefromthepeoplewhofillupthenewhousingprojects,golfcourses,shoppingmalls,andchurches.Mostofusdidtalktocivicleadersandsatisfiedcitizens.Butadeep-rootedhostilitytoorsuspicionofLasVegaswasnotalwayseasyforustoovercome.Inanattempttocounteractthis,andaddsomebalancetoour25b cDavidLittlejohnreport,Iwroteearlyin1997tosomefourhundredBerkeleyalumniresi-dentsinClarkCounty,describingourprojectandinvitingtheirparticipa-tion.Aboutahundredreplied,including(withtheirspouses)fourteenattorneys,eightUNLVprofessors,sevendoctors(andamedical-centermanager),sevenreal-estatebrokersorappraisers,fivereportersorwriters,fiveschoolteachersorcounselors,threeengineers,threepeopleintheinsurancebusiness,twoclergymen,twoHowardHughesexecutives,twocasinoexecutives(andaretiredblackjackdealer),twoarchitects,twofam-ilytherapists,apsychiatricnurse,astagehandatCirqueduSoleil,anartist,abanker,aDepartmentofEnergyscientist,anostrichfarmer,alibrarian,amedicalsecretary,agolf-coursemarketer,acomputersalesman(specializingincasinosales),ageologist,aretiredair-forceofficer,an“investor,”andadeputydistrictattorney.Amongthesewerealargenum-berofretiredpeopleandhousewivesactiveinvolunteerroles.InMarchwemetwithfiftyofthesepeopleattheGoldCoastHotel.Evenamongthesewillingaides,graduatesofourownuniversity,weencounteredthesuspicionofandhostilitytowardoutsideexaminersthatmightbeexpectedfromthecitizensofamalignedandoftencaricaturedcity.Oneattorneywarnedusinadvance,“WeLasVeganstendtobesomewhatskepticalofparticipationinsuchprojectsbecausewehavebeenthesubjectsofsomanystudiesbyoutsidersintentonratifyingtheirpre-determinedconclusions….Yourstudentsmayloveusorhateus,buttheywillnotbeabletoignorethevibranceandpotentialwepresentlyenjoy.”“Remember,”wroteanative-borncivicleader,“realpeoplelivehere!”Severalofthesepeoplecomplainedaboutthedistortingfixationofthenationalmediaoncasino-hotelsandgambling,andLasVegas’spersistentSinCityimage.“No,wedon’tallliveonTheStrip.No,wedon’tallhaveagamblingproblem.Yes,wedoputupChristmaslights.Basically,thisisanormalcommunitywithalltheproblemsandpleasuresofanylargecity.”ThereseemstobenoquestionthatlivinginLasVegasgeneratesakindofpricklydefensivenessagainstcriticismfromoutside—eventhough,asweshallsee,localsarequicktocriticizethecitythemselves.Decadesofmovies,TVshows,andpopularbooksandarticlesaboutmobsters,crime,grosstaste,andsleazysexhavecreatedaninternationalimagethatevennewresidentsofLasVegashavetodealwith.Onepublic-interestattor-ney,whomovedhereafter34yearsinSanDiego,listedasoneofthemajorproblemsfacingLasVegas“gainingsocialacceptancefromoutsideNevada.”Whenpresentedwithsomeofthestatisticscitedabove(oncrime,suicide,childabuse,bankruptcy,divorce,andothersignsofsocialdysfunction),manyLasVeganssimplycounteredthatthingswerenobet-terelsewhere,andoftenagreatdealworse.(Thecitiesmostoftencitedas26b cIntroduction“worse”wereNewYork,Washington,Chicago,andLosAngeles.)Thesepeoplemaywellhavebeenunawareorindenialofthefacts,orextrapolat-ingfromtheirownrelativelysafeandcomfortableenclaves.“They[theignorantreportersfromoutside]don’trealizethatinthesuburbanneigh-borhoodsitmayaswellbePhoenix,Tucson,Albuquerque,oranyothersouthwestcity.”Asforthesneered-uponexcessesoftheStrip,thesemaycomedowntonothingmorethanadifferenceintaste.“LasVegas’stacki-ness,”wroteaUNLVprofessor,is“wornasabadgeofpride.”“Wehavenoneoftheproblemsofoldercitieswithinner-citygenera-tionsofsocialproblems,”wroteaparticularlydefensivecivicbooster(Cal’63),directorofalargeneighborhoodcasino-hotelandformerregentoftheUniversityofNevada.“MostofourproblemswithviolenceareimportedfromLosAngelesgangslookingfornewmarketsfordrugs….Thehigh-profilecharacterswhocometotownforsportingeventsdrawundesirableswhoaddtoournegativepublicity(e.g.,TupakShakur)….AllofthenegativeattributesgiventoLasVegasarefoundinallotherlargecitiesintheU.S.”“Thecitywithouthighcrime,prejudice,anddysfunc-tionalgovernmentshouldcastthefirststone,”wrotearetiredartistwhooncelivedinManhattan,whereshefelttheeffectsofstreetcrimeandracialprejudice.“NewYorkhastheseproblemsinspades.Almosteverybigcityhassuchproblems.”WhatisitthatdrewthemtoLasVegas,andwhatkeepsthemhere,theseproudandsensitivemiddle-classLasVegans?Myrespondentsrangedinagefromabouttwenty-fivetoeighty-two;theirmediangradu-ationyearfromBerkeleywas1969.Therewereveryfewnatives,butthenLasVegashadapopulationofonlyabouttwentythousandwhenmyaveragerespondentwasborn.Thereasonsmostofthemmovedhereini-tially(otherthantoretire)werealmostalwaysjob-orincome-related.Theircompaniesorgovernmentagencieshadtransferredthem,ordown-sized;thearchitecture(orbuilding,orbanking)industryhaddriedupinSanDiegoorHonolulu;theywereeager(ordesperate)foranewjob;theycouldearnmoremoney(teaching,sellinginsurance,practicinglaw)inLasVegasthantheycouldintheirprevioushome.Afewcitedtheheadychallengeofworkinginawide-open,go-aheadtown.Thebasicattractionsmostoftencitedweretheclimate;thelowertaxesandcostoflivinggenerally;the“excitement”andavailableentertainment;thefriendlypeople;thepositiveattitudetowardsbusiness;andtheeaseofescapetootherplaces.Almosteveryonetalkedorwroteabouttheweather.WarmwinterswerestressedbyretireesfromtheEastandMidwest.AformerBayArearesidentravedaboutthewarmsummerevenings,whenshecouldfloatin27b cDavidLittlejohnherpoolbymoonlight.Adesert-lovingartist—whoobviouslylivessomedistancefromtheStrip—grewpoeticinpraiseoftheatmosphere:LasVegashaswelloverahundredmagicdayseachyear—i.e.,littleornohumiditywithatemperaturethatcouldbeupto85andstillbecomfortable.Fully80percentofthesunsetsarewonderful.Theairisstill;it’ssoquietyoucanhearthechirpingofthecrittersasduskapproaches.Theskygoesfrompalebluetodeepestblueblack;themoonishugeandjustoverthere,andyoucanactuallyseeaskyfullofstars.Interestingly,almostasmanypeople—oftenthesamepeople—listedtheappallingsummerheat(105-110ºdaysarenotuncommon)asoneoftheleastattractiveaspectsoflifeinLasVegas:agoodreasontovisitrelativesbackhome,oratleaststayindoorswiththeair-conditioningonhigh.Almosteveryonewhoansweredmyquestionscited“lowertaxes”asamajorreasonformovingtoorremaininginLasVegas.Nevadahasnostateincometax(asituationenjoyedbyresidentsofAlaska,Florida,SouthDakota,Texas,Washington,andWyomingaswell).Its7-percentsalestax,however—somethingonerarelyhearsmentioned—isthefifth-highestinthenation(sevenstateshavenosalestaxatall).Homeownersalmostinevitablyinsistthattheypaycomparativelylowpropertytaxes,getmorehomefortheirmoneythanhomeownerselsewhere,andenjoyagen-erallylowercostofliving;butthatdependsonwhatthey’recomparingthemselveswith.LasVegasisindeedcheaperformostpeopletoliveinthanLosAngeles,SanDiego,orSanFrancisco;butin1995theAmericanChamberofCommercefoundthecost-of-livingindexandtheaveragepriceofanewhomehigherinLasVegasthaninmostothersouthwesterncities.AlongwithLasVegans’professedpleasureattheirlowtaxburdengoestheirrealizationthatthecasinosarepayingmostoftheirpublic-worksbills.A6.25-percenttaxongamblingprofits—aratefarlowerthananyotherstate’s—paysmorethanathirdofNevada’sannualexpenses.AnumberofpeopleItalkedtoconcededglumlythattaxeswouldprobablyhavetoberaisedsoon,ifClarkCountywastopayformanydesperatelyneededthings—primarilywater,schools,betterroads,andimprovedlocalservicesmadenecessarybytherunawaygrowthofthelasttwentyyears.Buttheyareofseveralmindsonthequestionofwherethoserevenuesshouldcomefrom.Ourpropertytaxesarelowerthantheywouldbewithoutgaming.ButitwouldbebetterifourgovernmentandschoolswereLESSdependentongamingandwehadhighertaxes….Atsomepoint,homeownerswillhavetopaymore.28b cIntroductionTheultimatebeneficiary,thegamingindustry,shouldbearthebur-den…Ifgamingwantstobetheonlygameintown,letthempay….Therewillhavetobeamodestgeneralincreaseinhotel-casinotaxsupport.Makebuilderspayimpactfeesfornewdevelopments’roads,schools,sewers,fireandpolice….Makeallnewgrowthpayforitsowninfrastruc-ture…Longtimeresidentsresentincreasedtaxationtopayforgrowththeydon’twant,schoolstheydon’twant.Tosomedegree,thesameambiguityunderliespraiseforwhatnewres-idents—particularlyformerCalifornians,whomakeupmorethan40per-centofthem—regardasthemore“affordable”costofhousing,food,andotherthingsinLasVegas.Theypraisethecasinos,inparticular,forpro-vidinginexpensivemealsandentertainment,subsidizedbythegamblinglossesofothers.ButwhenIaskedthemifmywifeandIshouldconsiderleavingBerkeleyandmovingtoLasVegaswhenweretired,manylocalcitizensweretakenaback.RetiringtoLasVegas,theyfelt,madesensepri-marilyforlessadventurousorlessimaginativeolderpeopleonfixedincomes,whowereabletosellupinCaliforniaandgetmorehousefortheirmoneyinVegas:forthem,thewarmerweather,thelowertaxes,thecheaperhousing,thegolf,thesenseofsecurity,andthecheapentertain-mentwereenough.“ButifyoucanmaintainyourlifestyleinSanFran-ciscoinasatisfactorymanner,Icannotseewhyintheworldyouwouldwanttolivehere….Iwouldn’tcastasideanythingyouarecomfortableandhappywithuntilyouaresureyouwouldbeashappyhere.”ThisbankerfromNorthernCaliforniaadded,“IknowofsomepeoplewhoretiredherefromtheMidwestandhateditsomuchtheyeventuallywentbacktotheirsnowdriftsandtornadoes.”Althoughasurprisingnumberofthebusiness,professional,andretiredpeoplewemetinsistedthattheynevergamble,andtrytoavoidtheStripaltogether,othersadmitthattheylovetheexcitement,the24-hourlifestyle,theentertainmentprovidedbythecasinos.“It’salotoffunlivinghere,”wroteasixty-three-year-oldhousewifeandsubstituteteacher.“Therearenotenoughhoursinthedaytotakeadvantageofallthefunthingstodo,manyofwhicharefree.Andthentheresomanyexcitingper-sonalitiescomingtotowntoentertain.”BishopDanielWalsh,whocameherein1987toleadtheCatholicdio-ceseofLasVegasaftertwenty-fiveyearsofserviceinCalifornia,admitsthathemissestheconvenienceof24-hourstoreswhenhereturnstoSanFranciscoforavisit.LiketheConventionandVisitorsAuthority,somecitizensreallydobelievethatLasVegasis“theentertainmentcapitaloftheworld,”andarethrilledbythepresenceofsomanyresidentandvisit-ingperformers.Somerecreationalgamblersarecandidaboutthejoythey29b cDavidLittlejohntakeinthereadyavailabilityoftheirfavoritegames,andtheaddedplea-sureofgettingfreemealsorshowsinreturnfortheirinvestments.Butmostofthosewhocitegamblingasoneofthecity’s“attractions”insistthattheyarenotamongthoseattracted.AfewoftheBerkeleyalumniinLasVegasagreedwithwhatwehadheardfromlocalsocialworkers,teachers,counselors,andpsychiatrists:thatthecity’sconstantinfluxofnewresidents,itsconstantrebuildingandexpansion,itsgambling-basedeconomy,anditshuge24-hourservice-sec-torworkforcemadeitdifficulttomaintainorestablishanysenseof“com-munity.”We’renearlyallfromsomewhereelse[wrotea38-year-oldStripcasinoexecutivefromNorthernCalifornia,whohadlivedinLasVegasforsixyears]andhavefamilyties,loyalties,etc.inotherstatesandcities….Ourcommunityisaddingpeopleatsuchafuriousrate,itistoughtocometogether.Whenpeopleareunsurehowlongtheywillstay,whetherthey’lllikeitorfindsuccesshere,Ibelieverootsareputdowninaverytentativeway,andmaynotreallybesunkforyears—oruntilanothergenerationoffamilygrowsup.Timewilltell.IsuspectCaliforniawasmuchlikethisahundredyearsago.Butmanyofoursamplegroupdisagreed.Thecivicallyactivedirectorofanoff-Stripcasinowasespeciallyadamant:“Thereareprobablymore‘community’organizationsinLasVegaspercapitathaninanyothercityintheU.S.,”shewrote.“Thisisprobablyoneofthemostcommunity-mindedandgenerouscitiesintheworld.Thiscitydoesn’tknowthemean-ingofthephrase‘Wecan’tdoit.’”Shewentontolistawideandactivearrayofserviceclubs,volunteerprograms,sportsactivities,andchurches.Thereis,sheinsisted,“nobetterplacetolive,work,andretire.”WewerefrequentlytoldhowgenerousandopenLasVeganswere—awayfromthetouristcenter.“PeopleawayfromtheStripfairlyoutdothemselvestoshowyoujusthowfriendlytheyare.”(Andyet,thissamepersonwrote,youmayscarcelyknowyournext-doorneighbors,becausetheycomeandgosooften.)Thereremainsamongresidentsawide,evenbitterdivisionofopiniononthisquestionofcommunity.WeheldadinnerinDecember1996atanoff-StripFrenchrestauranttohearopinionsonthecity’sproblemsandprospectsfromlocaljournalists,politicians,andprofessors.ThediscussionovercoffeeanddessertexplodedintoanangrydisputeoverwhetherornotLasVegashada“soul.”(“Thiscityhasablackholewhereitssouloughttobe,”declaredonelocalwriter/reporter—acommentthatdrewdownthewrathofMyrnaWilliams,afeistycountycommissionerwhohadlived30b cIntroductionhereforthirty-sevenyears.)Master-plannedcommunitieslikeSummer-linandGreenValleyclearlyworkhardtocreateasenseofcommunitywithintheirwalls(onehasonlytoreadtheirchirpynewsletters)butnoteveryoneenjoysthatkindofregulatedneighborliness.Residentsoflongstandingfeel,orperhapshavecreatedaroundthem,afargreatersenseofcommunitythannewcomers.Oneold-timer,infact,blamed“allthesenewpeoplefromtheEast”fordestroyingthetraditionalNevadan-West-ernfrontieridealsofhospitalityandpoliteness.Retirees,day-shiftwork-ers,andpeoplewhofeelsettledintheirhomesandjobsobviouslyseethisissuedifferentlythanswing-andnight-shiftworkers(ofwhichLasVegashassomany);workersinsecureintheirjobs;orpeoplewhochangeaddresses—andwatchtheirchildrenchangeschools—everyyear.SomecitethepresenceofNellisAirForceBase,UNLV,even“Saturday-nightcrapsatyourfavoriteneighborhoodcasino”asvaluablenodesofcommu-nitybuildinginatransient,ever-spreadingtown.ThelocalBoyScoutcouncil,with22,000scoutsand5,500volunteeradultleaders,isoneofthelargestinthenation;9,500childrenparticipateinBoysandGirlsClubs,7,250inGirlScouts,andmanymoreintheathleticprogramsoftheClarkCountyDepartmentofParksandRecreation.WeheardoverandoverofthevitalityofthechurchesofLasVegas—inparticular,of“my”churchorsynagogue,whichformanyrecentresidents(seechapter9)hasbecomethesinglemostimportantforceintheirlives.Althoughmostofthosewhoidentifiedtheirdenominationweremain-streamProtestants,asensealsoemergedthatthepresenceofsomanyfamily-centeredandmorallydisciplinedMormonsandCatholicshelpedtocreatethestrongsenseofcommunitytheycraved.PeopleinbusinesspraiseLasVegas(astheydoClarkCountyandNevada)forits“excellentbusinessclimate,”bywhichtheymeanfewertaxesandregulationsthantheywouldhavetoputupwithinCaliforniaorArizona—apointtheNevadaDevelopmentAuthoritymakeswithham-meringinsistencewhentryingtoenticebusinessesfromelsewheretorelo-cateinClarkCounty.“ThethingthatreallymakesLasVegasgreat,”onesmallbusinessmantoldourspringbanquet,“isitsentrepreneurialspirit.”Hewasproudofthehundredsofstrip-mallshops,heinsisted,andthehundredsofsmall-scalebuildingcontractors,becauseeachoneindicatedabravenewadventurerinthefree-marketseaofClarkCounty.“Thegov-ernmentisoffyourback,themindsetisopentonewideas,theelectedofficialshaveavisionofeconomicprogress.”ManyresidentsblessedLasVegasforbeingeasytoescape,andwithinreadyreachofmore-attractiveplaces.ThesedesirableotherplacesrangefromnearbyattractionslikeLakeMead,RedRockCanyon,andMt.31b cDavidLittlejohnCharlestontotheskiresortsofLakeTahoe,MammothMountain,andUtah;GrandCanyonandZionNationalParks;othersouthwesterndesertregions;and“real”citieslikePhoenix,SaltLakeCity,LosAnge-les,andSanDiego.(Howmanypeoplelivinginthesecities,Iwonder,wouldlistasoneoftheiradvantagestheirproximitytoLasVegas?)Ontheotherhand,residentsofothercitiesmightwellenvyLasVeganstheireasyaccesstoalargeandreasonablyefficientairport,andthenum-berandrelativecheapnessofdailyflightstoandfromsomanyU.S.des-tinations—aboonprovidedbyandfortheresortandgamblingindustry,ofcourse.AmongotherreasonscitedformovingtoorremaininghappilyinLasVegasweretheculturalandsportsopportunities,aboutwhichopinionsdiffer;theunlikelihoodoffloods,earthquakes,tornadoes,blizzards,andsnow;the“safe,secureneighborhoods”(someretirementcommunities,likeSunCity-Summerlin,haveparticularlypassionateadvocates);thegolfcourses;theschoolsystem(“Alotofparentscomplain,buttheyshouldtryotherschoolsystems!”);andthecity’s“small-town”feeling.■ ■ ■Thereisnoreasontosuspectordistrusttheseclaimsofcontentment.ThosewhosaytheyenjoythejobopportunitiesandlowtaxesofLasVegas,thenaturalaswellastheeconomicclimate,thechurchesandschoolsandlibrariesandculturaleventsandcommunityactivities,arenotfoolingthemselves,orspeakinginbadfaith:theyaretellingthetruth.YoucanliveareasonablyhappylifeinLasVegas,whetherornotyoumakeuseofthetouristcenter.Onerhetoricalexcesstowhichthesegoodpeopleareoftendriven,however,istoassertthat,preciselybecauseofitschurchesandschools,itsBoyScouttroopsandLittleLeagueteams,LasVegasis“justlikeanyothercity.”Itisnot.Ifnotpreciselyacompanytown,LasVegasstillverymuchaone–industrytown,notallthatdifferentfromDetroitorPitts-burghintheirheyday.Astheindustrygoes,sogoesLasVegas.Itseemedarrogantatthetime,butSteveWynnwasrighttomockthepretensionsof“economicdiversification”representedbytheopeningoftheLeviStraussdistributioncenterin1996,ofwhichtheDevelopmentAuthorityseemedinordinatelyproud.“YouwouldhavethoughttheHooverDamwasbeingbuiltagain,”hesaid.“Thepartytheythrewwassodisproportionatetotheamountofpeoplehired,buteverybodywassohappy.Andtherollingthunderthataccompaniedthearrivalof32b cIntroductionCitibank—oh,myGod,itwaslike,Hallelujah!”LeviStrausshiredaboutfourhundredpeople.Citibank’scredit-cardoperationinLasVegashiredsixteenhundredemployees.MirageResortsInc.hasmorethantwenty-fivethousand.LikeeverythinkingLasVegan,SteveWynnknowsperfectlywellwhatmakesLasVegasdifferentfromotherAmericancities.Heknowswhopaysthebillsandwho(therefore)callstheshots.Everydoctor,lawyer,architect,clergyman,banker,real-estatedeveloper,teacher,groceryclerk,carpenter,prostitute,anddrugdealerinLasVegasultimatelydependsforsurvivalonthepeoplewholosetheirmoneygamblingontheStripandDowntown—and,increasingly,inoutlyingneighborhoodsaswell.Inmostcases,theordinary—oratleastordinarycollege-educated—citizensItalkedandwrotetowereasquicktofindfaultwiththeircityasanyprej-udicedandunthinkingoutsidermightbe.“Basically,”wroteonecandidcitizen,“the‘SinCity’perceptionisnotamislabel.Gaming(greed),sex,andalcoholdominatethecommunity.”Themostseriousproblemconfrontingthecityandcountyiswhatmostresidentsregardastotallyunplannedgrowth.Thegrowthisnot,ofcourse,totallyunplanned,aswehaveseen:bothcityandcountyhavelargestaffsofdedicatedandconscientiousplanners.Buttheirbestadviceandintentionsarefrequentlyoverriddenbyelectedpoliticiansandthetwoindustries—casino-hotelsandpropertydevelopment—politiciansattendtowithgreatestrespect.Aminorityofmyrespondentsprofesstofindtherapidgrowth“exciting,”awaytokeeptheeconomy“vibrant.”Mostfree-marketbusinesspeopleresisttheideaofplacinganycontrolsorlimitsongrowth,likethe“ringaroundthevalley”proposed(andkilled)inthestatelegislaturein1997.Suchmeasureswouldbe“inconsistentwiththespiritofentrepreneurialism.”(HowquicklyLasVeganspickuptheword“entre-preneur”anditsderivatives!)Othersmaydreamofgrowthlimitsbutcon-cedethattheyarepoliticallyimpossiblegiventhepowerstructureofsouthernNevada—“thelastoutpostoftheWildWest,”asonepersoncalledit.“Nothingbutthemarketplacewilleverlimitthegrowthofcasi-nos.”MosteducatedLasVeganssimplyrailagainsttherunawayexpan-sionofthelasttenyears,withoutanyclearideahowtostoporcontrolit.“Whereelsedoesthephonecompanypublishtwophonebooksayearinanefforttocopewithturnover?”Wecan’tmanagegrowth….Toomanypeopletooquicklyspellsdisaster….Thegovernmentcan’tkeepupwiththeinfrastructureandotherproblems.Ibelievetheraginggrowthwillonlybebroughtundercontrolbysomeunanticipateddisaster.LasVegasisadesertandwillnotchangebecauseofdevelopmentefforts.33b cDavidLittlejohnThecity’sgreatestproblemishandlingthephenomenalgrowthrateandthesubsequentproblemsthatcreates:traffic,schools,water,publicservices,etc….Populationgrowthmustbehalteduntiltheseproblemsaresolved.Growthisoutofcontrol,firstingaming,whichbringsinlotsoflow-incomeworkers,secondlyinretirees,whodon’twanttosupportschools,parks,roads,utilities,police,etc.Theattitudethatgrowthpaysforitself—whichitdoesnot—willbeourmajorprobleminthelongrun.ThechaosofthelasttenyearsdroveusbacktoCalifornia.SofarasIknow,noLasVegasdailynewspaper,nocity-councilmem-ber,nocountycommissioner,nolaborunion,andnomajorindustryorprofessionalgrouphaseverdaredpubliclysuggestsettinglimitsongrowthinClarkCounty.Countycommissionerslobbiedaggressivelyagainstthe“ringaroundthevalley”proposedin1997.“Anyideaof‘con-trolledgrowth’istreatedbythepoliticaleliteasbeingonaparwithcom-munism,”wroteoneLasVegasarchitect.Somepeoplewhoappeartohavethoughtseriouslyaboutgrowth-relatedproblemsholdouthopesforlim-itingthembybettercoordinatedandmorethoughtfullongrangeplan-ning;raisingthepriceofwater;chargingdevelopersrealisticimpactfees;maintainingstricterzoningrequirements;andconsolidatingcityandcountygovernments.TheoneresultofLasVegas’srecordgrowththatalmosteveryresidentmentionswithdisgustistheincreaseintrafficcongestion,acomplaintthatmaysimplyrepresentalongingforthesimplerandsmallercityofthepast.Attherighttimesofday,usingsideroadsanddetours,IfoundLasVegasnohardertogetaroundthan,say,SanFranciscoorLosAngeles.Buttraffictie-upsontheStripandthemajoreast-westboulevardscanbetime-consumingandfrustrating;andtheautomobiledominationofLosAngelesispreciselywhatmanypeoplecameheretoescape.Thesolutionsproposed(betterpublictransport;moreandwiderfreeways;bettertraffic-flowmanagement;andamonoraildowntheStrip,betweenDowntownandtheairport)areunlikelytorelieveasituationinwhich(accordingtoa1997studycitedbyMarkSmith,formerpresidentoftheLasVegasChamberofCommerce)eighteennewnorth-southlanes,andtwentyneweast-westlaneswouldhavetobebuiltbytheyear2015justtokeeptrafficcongestionfromgettingworsethanitistoday.Evenifsuchanimperialroadbuildingprojectmadesenseeconomically,thereissimplynowheretobuildthatmanynewlanes.Thesecond-most-commonareaofcomplaint(orfearforthefuture)amonglocalcitizensregardsnaturalresources,specifically,waterandair.Withregardtothecontinuingavailabilityofwaterforthisessentially34b cIntroductionbone-drycity,manycitizensIspoketocitedthenow-standarddoomsdayprediction:availablesourcesofwater(undergroundorColoradoRiver)willrunupagainstthepopulationwallaroundtheyear2005,andLasVeg-answhorefusetofacethatfactaresimply“indenial.”OthersaccepttheSouthernNevadaWaterDistrict’sassurancethatwaterintheWestwillalwaysgotowhoeveriswillingtopayforit,andthatLasVegaswillalwaysbewealthyenoughtocutdealswithranchersandfarmers,otherwesternstates,andthefederalgovernmentinordertogetallthewateritneeds.Giventhelatterattitude,itisnotsurprisingthatsomepeoplebelievethat“[Water-]conservationeffortsinthestateareajoke.”Oneattorneydeclared,“LasVegaslacksacommunityethosthatwouldsupportconser-vation”—andlocalgovernmentthegutstoimposeconservationrulesonresidentsandhotels.Airpollutionandsmog(thecitywasplacedona“severe”non-compli-ancealertin1997,whichcouldleadtomajorcutbacksinfederalhighwayfunding)areobviouslyanoutgrowthoftheastonishingnumberofcarsontheroads.AlthoughcountyplannersIspoketoinsistthatthesituationhasimprovedmarkedlysince1990,somelocalresidentsstillrailagainstthecity’sgeneralcarelessnessaboutenvironmental(andtherelatedhuman)realities.AnarchitectwhomovedtoLasVegasin1995wrote,IthasalltheworstattributesoftheL.A.-OrangeCountysyndrome,i.e.,Stripcitywithtotaldependenceontheautomobile,sprawling“slurbs”withnosenseofplaceorbelonging,highviolentcrimerate,energyineffi-ciency—totaldependencyonairconditioningforfive-plusmonths;physi-callynon-responsivetotherealitiesofthenaturalenvironment.ManypeopleciteClarkCounty’sbeleagueredpublicschoolsasanothermajorproblem.Theyregardthelocalschoolsasinefficient,overcrowded,orsimplynotgoodenough,andfearthatthesituationwillnotimproveaslongassomanyoftheirfellowcitizensremain“indifferenttotheimpor-tanceofaqualityeducationalsystem.”Manysimplyfearthatthecountycannotbuildenoughschools,fastenough.“Someofthemareondoublesessionsfromthefirstdaytheyopentheirdoors.Youngstersaretiredofbeingrezonedsooften[that]theygotoadifferentschooleveryyear.”OthersregardLasVegasasgenerally“unfriendlytochildren,”andblamethegamblingindustryforhigh-schooldropoutsandlowSATscores.Gamingdoesn’trequireaneducationbeyondhighschoolformostofitsjobs,thereforequalityeducationhasalowpriority….Jobsaresoeasytoget[that]itishardtokeepalotofkidsinschoollongenoughtograduate…Ifyouearn$70,000parkingcarsatahotel(anddon’tpaytaxonmostofit),whywouldyouencourageyourchildrentogetaneducation?35b cDavidLittlejohnThequestionof“culturaldeprivation”dependsonwhatyouregardasculture,andhowimportantitistoyourlife.Somelocalresidentsaccus-tomedtotheculturalofferingsofoldercitiesprofessthemselvesdiscon-tent.“Thecitybadlyneedsaculturalcenter”…“[thereis]alackofculturalactivitieswithina200mileradius.”ButtopeoplecontentwithSiegfriedandRoy,theLiberaceMuseum,andtheNationalFinalsRodeo,remarkslikethesemaysoundlikethewhiningofEastCoastorCaliforniasnobs.Anumberofrespondentsprofessedthemselvesdelightedwiththecounty’snewlibrariesandtheuniversity’sclassical-musicseries.Snobberydoesseemtounderlieanumberofpeople’scriticalremarksabouttheirfellowcitizens.Onemancomplainedofthe“lowintellectuallevelofthepopulation,mostofwhomworkintheserviceindustries,”andsaidthathefoundit“hardtomeetintellectualpeers.”Othersweredis-dainfuloftheirconceptionofthetypicalresidentsof“adult”subdivisions,peopletheyregardedaslimitedinimagination,boredandboring,obsessedwiththrift,security,gossip,andtheirhealthproblems.Residentsofmaster-plannedcommunitieswereregardedasisolated,self-centered,andburdenedwithintolerablyrestrictivecodesdesignedtohomogenizetheirbuilding,decorating,andbehavior.EducatedpersonshavesomethingofachallengelivinginLasVegas,becausesomanyoftheculturaliconsappealtotheobviousandthevulgar.Theprofessionalclasshasineffecttoisolateandinoculateitselfinordertosurvive.Thisisbasicallyaveryblue-collartown,whichcouldbepositiveornega-tive,dependingonyourperspective.Itisalittlemoreblue-collarthanIwouldliketosee.Finally,anumberofthesemiddle-class,churchgoingLasVegansexpressedadisgustatthe“lowmoraltone”setbythegamblingindustry—asifitsexistencecameasagreatsurprisetothemaftertheychosetomovehere.Forthosewithnointerestingamingitisnecessarytoignore—oractively,mentallyoppose—themessagesofthefast-buckculture.Themoraltonesetbythegamingindustryisoneofcompletesleaze.Itencouragespeopletothrowawaytheirmoneyontheillusionofquickriches.Peoplewhohaveaweaknessforgambling,whoareseekingescapefromunfulfilledlives,donotdowellinanycommunitywheregamblingissovig-orouslypromoted.Familylifeisboundtobeadverselyaffected.Fundamentally,Ithinktheindustryisnoteagertoseeimprovementsinthequalityoflifebecauseitmaydetractfromtheiroperations.36b cIntroductionIt’ssadtostopata7-11forgasolineat4a.m.andseepeoplewiththeirquartofmilkandloafofbreadgoingsourandstaleastheyputinanothertendollars.Myhopeistogetoutofthishellholewithinthenextfiveortenyears.■ ■ ■AsIwroteattheoutset,Ioriginallyenvisionedthisprojectasoureffortto“learnmorefromLasVegas”;toofferaseriesoflessonsforotherU.S.citiescontemplatingtheturntowardsagambling-basedeconomy.Inolongerregardthisasusefulorevenpossible.LasVegas,Ihaveconcluded,isunique,andmaythereforehavenolessons—economic,social,orethi-cal—topassontotherestofthecountry.Althoughincorporatedin1905,thecityweseewasessentiallycreatedin1931byandforcasinogambling.MonteCarloorSunCity,insouthernAfrica,mayhavesimilarstoriestotell.ButyoucannotfairlycomparethesituationsofAtlanticCity,Biloxi,Detroit,orNewOrleans;allofthesecitieshadlonghistoriesofamixedsocialandeconomicbase,beforereachingouttocasinogamblinginrecentyears.Gamblinghasbeentheraisond’êtreofLasVegasfortwo-thirdsofacentury.Overandover,IheardtwocommonplacesaboutLasVegasthatInowregardasequallyandfundamentallywrong:first,thatLasVegasisatheart“justlikeanyothercity,”andsecond,thatthelegalizingofcasinogamblinginsomeothercitywillturnitinto“anotherLasVegas.”Notachance.THENEVADAATTITUDEBeneaththeuniquenessofLasVegasliesacentury-old“NevadaAttitude,”orcomplexofattitudes,thathaspermittedorencour-agednotonlycasinogamblingbutalsolegalprostitution;do-as-you-willmarriageanddivorcelaws;ahostilitytotaxesorregulation;abrazendefi-anceofthefederalgovernment,notunlikethatofBrighamYoungin1857;anindifferencetoenvironmentalconcernsandthedownsideofuncon-trolledgrowth;themostpositivepossibleclimateforentrepreneursofeverysort,fromnailpolishersandstrip-clubownerstohomebuildersandtelemarketers;unusuallyfree-wheelinglandspeculators;brazenlycom-mercialdoctorsandlawyers;threedecades(fromthemid-1940stothemid-1970s)ofvirtuallyuncheckeddominionbyorganizedcrime;atradi-37b cDavidLittlejohntion(sharedbyothercities)ofpliantorcorruptelectedpoliticiansandpolice;adefiantresistancetoanykindofplanning;laxbuildingcodesandinspections;andanunusuallycynicalapproachtosports,fromamateurbasketballtoprofessionalboxing,thankstowhichpeoplelikeJerryTarkanianandDonKinghavebeenelevatedtolocalheroesalmostonthelevelofBugsySiegel,DelWebb,HowardHughes,Liberace,FrankSina-tra,WayneNewton,ElvisPresley,SteveWynn,andSiegfriedFischbackerandRoyHorn.ManypeopleItalkedto,includingnativebornNevadansaswellasnewcomers,boastfreelyofthis“NevadaAttitude.”Itisvividlydemon-stratedinthefinalchapterofthisbook,whichdealswiththeanti-federal-istrebelrancherswholivejustnorthofClarkCounty.Whatinterestsmeaboutthisphenomenon,andhenceaboutLasVegas,isthebroadrangeoffeelingsandbeliefsitisabletoencompass,fewofwhichareexportableoutofstate.Insofarasitexists,theNevadaAttitudeseemstoincludea“Don’tTreadonMe”hostilitytoanykindofoutsideinterference;butalsoa“can-do”spiritthatinvolvesawillingnesstotakerisksandworkhard,inthebeliefthateventhemostintractableproblemscanbesolved.Itembracesbothadefiantacceptance(oratleastablind-eyetoleration)oflegalizedgamblingandprostitution,unfetteredpropertyspeculation,andunrestrictedsmokinganddrinking—andasocialconservatismoftenidentifiedwiththeMormonChurch.Itwasthespokesmanforanotherchurch,however—formerlyateacheratmyoldhighschool,nearSanFrancisco—whoexpressedtomemostardentlywhatLasVegansadmireaboutthespiritandenergyoftheirfel-lowcitizens.IwillletBishopWalshhavethelastword.LasVegasisthefinestcommunityI’veeverlivedin.ThenicestpeopleI’veevermetarerighthereinLasVegas,themostgenerouspeopleI’veevermet,themostcommunity-mindedpeopleI’veevermet.Thisisawonderfulcity,awonderfultown.It’sfrontier,it’snew,it’slikeI’msureSanFranciscowaslikeattheturnofthecentury,suchadynamicplace.SanFranciscowasbuiltongold,andsilverfromVirginiaCity.We’rebuildingacommunityhereonadifferentsortofmining.Butitisadynamiccommunity,fullofwonderfulpeople….Thecitycutourbudgetforhousingemergencyshelterbythirtythou-sanddollars.Well,thatmeansthatfortwoorthreemonthswe’dhavetoclosetheshelter.Ican’tmakethatup,norcanCatholicCharities.Imadepublicourneed,andElaineandSteveWynncameforwardwiththirtythousand.They’renotofourfaith,buttheysawtheneed,andboom!Ithinkthat’sthegeneralspirit:acan-docity.Itissuchanexcitingcity,andIfindthepeoplewonderful.Ourlocalparishesaresototallyengaged.38b cIntroductionOfcoursethegreatchallengeisgrowth.ButIwouldmuchratherbeworry-ingaboutbuildingchurchesthanclosingthem,thewaytheyareinSanFrancisco.Iwishyoucouldflyafewofthosesurpluschurchesdownhere.Withthegrowthwehaveexperiencedhere,webuilttennewchurchesinthelastnineyears—allofwhichtheparishionershavetopayforthem-selves,one-thirdincash,one-thirdinpledges,one-thirdasaloanfromthediocesanbankwhichtheyhavetopayback….Ourparishcommunitiesarealive;thepeoplearealive,they’reinvolved!I’vehadpeoplecomefromSanFrancisco,andtheysay,‘MyGod,I’dliketobringmychildrendownhere—Imean,toseearealchurch,avibrantchurch!’Mostofthepeoplearemovingin—they’renotnativesonsanddaughters,thereareveryfewofthem:sothere’savibrancyinourcommuni-ties,anoutreachtonewcomers.WehadourdiocesancelebrationofthefeastofOurLadyofGuadalupefortheSpanish-speakingcommunityyes-terdayattheShrine[theShrineoftheMostHolyRedeemer,justofftheStrip,openedin1992],andwehadaboutfifteenhundredpeoplethere.Suchawonderfulcommunity.■ ■ ■Manyoftheinterviewsandmuchoftheresearchforthisbookwerecon-ductedbetweenDecember1996andJune1997.AlthoughseveralofushavereturnedtoLasVegassince,andmadeeffortstoupdatefactsandsta-tistics,theagesandsituationsofmostofthepeoplewetalkedtohavebeenleftastheywerewhenweencounteredthem.Thestatelypaceofbook-publishingisoutrunbythefranticchangesofurbanlife,especiallyinacitythatre-createsitselfasoftenasLasVegasdoes.ButIbelievethatourpicturesofthecityremainfundamentallytrue.39b DownandOutinVegasMalcolmGarciaIfollowAlantothepark.WeemergefromthesoupkitchenandcrosstheparkinglottothecornerofOwensAvenueandMainStreet.TheafternoonglareoftheLasVegassunhurtsmyeyes,andthedryairconstrictsmythroat.Alansquintsattheground,stoppingfromtimetotimetoinspectsuddenflashesoflight.Loosechangeoranalu-minum-foilgumwrapper?Hecarriesaplasticshoppingbagsteamingwithwetclothes.Wewadethroughsheathsofheatinwhatwasonceashoppingmallbutnowresemblesareservationforoutcasts.Weary-lookingmenandwomentrudgepastus,accompaniedbytheirchildrenwedgedintooverstuffedshoppingcarts.Plastictrashbagsfilledwithdonatedpastryturninggreeninsidecellophanewrappersmolderunderthehotsun.Armsandlegsstickoutthewindowsofparkedcars,thetemporaryrefugeoftheunemployed.Linesofheatshimmerabovetheslumpedbodiesatrestbeneaththeonesignidentifyingthisoutpost:“St.Vincent’sPlaza.CatholicChari-ties.”AlanandIpauseinthenarrowshadowprovidedbythesignbeforewecontinuetowardtheintersection.Thefourcorners,hecallsthisplace:thenonprofitStripofLasVegas.Mostofthecity’shomelessservicesstretcharoundthisbarrentown-ship,andAlanandIjointheestimatedeighteenthousandhomelessLasVeganswhoeventuallygravitatetothisdesolatespot.TheSalvationArmy41b cMalcolmGarciaoperatesashelteroneblockuponOwens.Itsmotto(AnInnerVoiceTellsYouNotToDrinkOrUseOtherDrugs)hangsonthewall.TheMASHCrisisCenterbumpsagainstSt.Vincent’smen’sshelter(NoShavingOrBathingInBathroomSink.IfCaughtYou’llBe86ForTheNight).TheKeyFoundation,aveterans’organization,opensitsdoorsacrossthehallfromSt.Vincent’semploymentproject(LookInTheMirror:WouldYouHireThisMan?),andtuckedawayattheintersectionofOwensandMainstandsShadeTree,awomen’sshelter.TrafficpassesusheadingsouthtoDowntown.MostpeopleinLasVegasregardacarasanecessity,butwiththeseservicessocentralized,wehavenoneedforavehicle:noreasontogoanywherebutrighthere.■ ■ ■Sevenyearsago,theLasVegasMetropolitanPolicemadesurehomelesspeoplestayedawayfromtheStripbyroutinelyarrestingthemforoffensessuchasstandinginfrontofcasinosorrefusingtoshowidentification.WhenthecitybuiltanewlibraryonNorthLasVegasBoulevardin1990,administratorsinstitutedananti-smellpolicytoejecthomelesspeoplehangingoutinthelibrarywhosebodyodorwasconsideredoffensive.Youdidn’tneedtobehomeless,though,tobehassledbyLasVegascityofficials,asJohnFarrelllearnedin1989.FarrellwasthenworkingforCatholicCharitiesasamental-healthcounseloratSt.Vincent’s.Oneweekendheandagroupoffriendsdecidedtoplaybasketballatapubliccourtoutsidetown.“Oneoftheguyswenttothelibraryandaskedforacigarette,”Farrellrecalled.“That’swhattriggeredit.SomeonecomplainedandthenextthingweknowthepolicelinedusupagainstthewallandaskedforI.D.’s.Theydidn’ttakeusin,butweweretoldtocallaheadthenexttimewewantedtoplay.“Butyoudidn’thavetogooutsideofLasVegastoknowwhatwasgoingon.EveryFridayafternoonalongFremontStreet,Metrowouldstophome-lesspeople.NoI.D.,youwenttojail.YouwereheldFridaynightthroughSundaytoavoidtheweekendtouristcrowd.Itwasamazing.”Thatwasthen.Now,thecityhastranslateditsoverthostilityintoatightlycontrolledcontainmentpolicy.Thehomelessbouncebetweenagen-cieswithinalimitedgeographicareafarfromtheStripandGlitterGulch.“Listen,”saidStevenSwitzer,ahomelessadvocatewhoworkedinLasVegasintheearly1990s,“LasVegasisfirstandforemostatouristtown.Theywanttocreateafantasy,andtheydon’twantanyrealitycreepingintoit.”42b cDownandOutinVegasIn1989,theACLUbroughtinadoseofreality.Theorganizationchal-lengedthecity’sloiteringandvagrancylawswithalawsuitclaimingtheywereunconstitutional.ThetestcaseinvolvedthreeFranciscanfriarsandalawyer,whowerearrestedandconvictedofloiteringaftertheyques-tionedpoliceofficerswhohadarrestedseveralhomelesspeopleinaLasVegascitypark.Afederaljudgestruckdowntheloiteringlawasuncon-stitutional.“Theycameinbulldozerstogetridofhomelesscamps,”recalledLouisVitalie,oneoftheFranciscanfriarswhowasarrested.“Wesatdowninfrontofthebulldozersandwerearrested.Andtheneverybodywhogotarrestedandchargedwithloiteringwouldbringintheircitationandchal-lengethecityincourt.Onceweoverwhelmedthecourtsystemtheystoppedcitingpeople,andnegotiatedwithussotheproblemwouldn’tgettoomuchpublicity.”Buttosomeadvocates,thesevictorieswereonlytentativefirststeps,takengrudginglybyacitythatremainsantagonistictowardthehomeless.“ForallpracticalpurposesLasVegasdoesnothing,”saidTerryWhitacker,directoroftheCommunityHealthCenter.“Peoplearejustwarehoused.We’retwentyyearsbehindthetimesjustintermsofdignity.Everythingisbasedontourism.Therecanbenothingwronghere.”Emboldenedbytheirsuccessfullawsuits,about180homelesspeopleledbySwitzerandotheradvocatesgatheredonthestepsofCityHallinthefallof1991andconfrontednewlyelectedmayorJanLavertyJonesatherfirstcouncilmeeting.TheSanDiegoUnionreportedatthetimethat“suddenlythehomelessaregettingmoreheadlinesthanEngelbert,Wayneandotherentertainerswhohavebeencanonizedherewithfirstnameonlytreatment.”“Alltheywantedwassomeonetolistentothem,”MayorJonesrecalled.“Themarshalscameinandsaidthereareallthesepeopleoutsideandtheywanttoseeyou.Youcan’tgooutthere.OfcourseIcan,Isaid.Twomar-shalsandacouncilmanaccompaniedme.”Theupshotofthemayor’simpromptumeetingwiththehomelesswastheMobileAssistanceandShelterfortheHomelessprogram,calledMASHforshort.MASHCrisisCenteropenedin1992andMASHVil-lage,atransitional-housingprogram,openedin1994withmuchfanfareandonesignificantstipulation:MASHwasforpeoplewho“wantedhelp.”Sowhatofthecontinuingpresenceofhomelesspeopleonthestreetfiveyearslater?“They’rethechronic,”Jonessaidmatter-of-factly.“Theywanttobehomeless.Hobos,bums,theywanttobebums.Wehavetoquestionhowmuchresponsibilitywehavetothem.”43b cMalcolmGarciaMASHcriticsthinkdifferently.“EveryonereallypushedforMASH,”recalledMichaelPowlack,directoroftheEconomicOpportunityBoard,anonprofitagencybasedinWestLasVegas.“Itwassupposedtobeastate-of-the-artemergencyshelter,buttheyshiftedfocustotransitionalhous-ing.So,we’restillbacktotheproblemoftheneedforemergencyshelter.“Whattheyneedisageneral,spartanfacility.Thehomelessarenotgoingawayandthey’renotgoingintoprograms.Weneedtobepreparedtomaintainpeople,andwe’renot.”■ ■ ■Thelightturnsgreen,andAlanandIcrossovertoapebble-strewnlotwhereanabandonedstationwagonsagsoveranarrowtrench.Emptyliquorbottlescluttertherippedseatsandlizardsscrambleovertherustedwheelhubs.“How’syourstomachholding?”Alanasks.“Fine,”Isay.Earlier,IhadthrownupaftertwospoonfulsofSt.Vincent’ssoup.Mythroattightened,mystomachlunged,andIstumbledtothebathroomandvomitedintoatoiletthatappearednottohavebeenflushedformonths.Iwalkedbackunsteadilytomytableandsatdown.Smallcirculartablesandcrackedplasticchairsfilledthedank,yellowdininghall.Acollageofdriedswirlsscarredthebrown-tiledfloor,mark-inganintersectingtrailwalkednightlybyvolunteerjanitorsenrolledintheorganization’sworkprogram.Twomensatatmytable.One,ayoungerguyinjeansandastylishorangeshirt,glancedatme,pickeduphistray,andmovedtoanothertable.Theotherman,wholaterintroducedhimselfasAlan(“Don’tcallmeAl.I’mnothiptoabbreviations”),eyedmeforamomentandthenaskedhowIwas.“Notverywell.Igotsick.”“Soup’lldoittoyouthefirsttime,”hesaid.Helookedaboutfiftyandhisvoicegroundlikegravel.Hesatslouchedoverhisbowlofsoup,sippingslowly.Hehadonagraywindbreakerpar-tiallyzippedoverhisbowlingball-shapedstomach.Hisfacewasdarklytanned,andhisgrayhairslickedhardtooneside.“It’slikethefirstdrinkinthemorning,”hesaidoverhisbowl.“Yougetsick,butthenyoucanfinishtherest.Getyourselfanotherbowlofsoup,son.”Idid.Thebowlwasmuchlikethepreviousone.Floatingglobsofcon-gealinggreasemixedwithnoodles,carrots,andlukewarmwater.Two44b cDownandOutinVegaswomentuggedonelastichospitalglovesandservedthesoupwithasliceofwhitebread.Isatbackdownandsippedatitslowly.Mythroatcon-stricted,butIswallowed.Ikeptworkingatitsipbysip.Iclosedmyeyes.Itstayeddown.IlookedacrossatAlan.Hestaredatanoodledanglingoffhisspoonandnoddedhisheadslowlywithoutlookingatme.“Holdyourbreath,son.Youdon’twanttotasteit.”Alanpushedhistraytothecenterofthetableandrelaxedinhischair.“Sowhereyoufrom?”heasked.“California.You?”“Outeast.Boston.Cameoutherefouryearsagoandranoutofmoneylikeeverybodyelse.”“Isthistheonlyplacethatservesfood?”“SalvationArmy,butIwouldn’trecommendit.TheRescueMissionhasgoodfood.Beans,butit’sgood.Ifyougetthereearlyenoughyoucangetawholefruitpie.Iatetherelastnight,butImissedthepie.”“How’saboutaplacetostay?”“Igotacamp.IgotagoodplacethatIstoremyblankets.St.Vincent’sisallright,buttheygotcritters.Ifyougetashowerandnottoomanybugsdiginyoucanmakeoutallrightthere.YoucangotoSallie’s[SalvationArmy]attenandthenursethere’llgiveyousomethingtogetridofthem.Sallie’sisagoodplacetosleep.You’llhavetoshower.Theydon’tturnawayfirst-timers.”“Whataboutjobbing?”“Thereareday-laborjointsuphereonBonanzaifyouwantwork.Youaboutdonethere?There’saparknearherewhereyoucancrapout.Figureyouneedit.”■ ■ ■TheparksprawlsaroundahousingprojectdownthestreetfromtheSal-vationArmyshelter.Wefollowanarrowdirtpath,steppingoverdarksplashesofdirtstinkingwithurine.Amandefecatesaheadofus.Heleansforwardandscrapeshisbuttbackandforthagainstthewallofanabandonedbuilding—aroughsub-stitute,Icanonlysuppose,fortoiletpaper.Wewalkpastwithoutcom-ment.Theparkteemswithpeoplecrowdingpicnictablesorsittinginsmallgroupsonthegrass.AfamilycampednearthepathhasgroupedthreeshoppingcartsloadedwithclothesandblanketsintoaUshape.TwosmallchildrenplayinthecenteroftheU,restrainingathirdfromsneakingoff.45b cMalcolmGarciaWewindourwaythroughthemixofbodies,backpacks,andbedrollstoarowofdumpsters.(“I’vebeenherefivedaysandliveinmycamper.Tofindmyselfinthisposition,Ineverdreamedofit.I’mfifty-fiveyearsold.Mechanic.Icandothreetofoursetsoffiftypush-ups.Threesetsoffivethree-hundred-fif-teenbenchpresses.SeewhatIlookedlike?”)(“I’mfromCouncilBluffs,Iowa.Justafarmer’swife.Myhusbandhadabraintumoranddied.MydaughterlivesinSanAntonio.Istoppedhereonthewaydowntoseeher.MyhusbandandIusedtocomehere.Gotintoapokergameandjustdidn’tgiveadamn.”)Alanremovesastashofcardboardtuckedintothebranchesofatreeandarrangesthepiecesonthegrass.Hespreadsthewetshirtsfromhisplasticbagoutonthegroundandliesdown.HewashedtheshirtswhenheshoweredatSt.Vincent’s.Hefiguresthey’lldryinanhourintheafter-noonheat.“Grabyourselfsomecardboard,”hesays.“Behindthedumpsterthere’realwaysboxesyoucanbreakup.”Isitonthegrass.AbrownVolkswagenvanwithJESUSISSWEETpaintedacrossitparksonthestreet,andthreewomenemergeandstartservingthehomelessbeansandcornbread.Tenteenagegirlstumbleoutthesidedoorsandadjuststereospeakersonthehood.Loudrapmusiccompeteswithstaticasatapeplays“SpaceJam.”Thegirlsdanceinunison,rollingtheirhipsinwidecir-clesastheydragtheirhandsslowlyacrosstheirchestsandstomachs.“Shakeitgirls,oh,shakeit!”shoutsoneofthedancers.“Youallsmooth!”NoneofthismakesanimpressiononAlan,oronanyoneelse,forthatmatter.Whenthesongendsthegirlslookateachotherandsmile,andoneofthemflipsthecassette.Thehomeless,theirfacesfleckedwithcorn-bread,concentrateontheirbowlsofbeans.■ ■ ■Ididn’tknowitatthetime,butthepolicewereplanningahomeless“sweep.”AfireinanabandonedhouseoneblockawaywouldpromptMetrotocleartheparktwoweeksafterImetAlan.Evenwithoutthefire,itwasonlyamatteroftimebeforethis“squat”attractedtheattentionofdevelopers,whopushthehomelessoutevenastheymeetthehousingdemandsofthemorethanfivethousandpeoplewhomovehereeachmonth.46b cDownandOutinVegas“Withgrowth,moreandmorehomelessareasarebeingdoneawaywith,”saysMichaelPowlack,theEconomicOpportunityBoarddirector.“Thehousingauthoritywantstodevelopthepark.Mybetisthatinanotheryearthere’llbeanapartmentcomplexoraseniorcenterhere.”IlookedoutthewindowofPowlack’sJeepCherokeeandstaredatthevacantpark.IglancedoveratthetreewhereAlanstoredhiscardboard.Itsbrancheswereempty.“It’satoughtown,”Powlacksaid.“Verylittlepublicspace,andwhatthereistendstogetoverused.Noonceacceptsthatthesepeoplearehere.Nooneaskswhatcanwedotomaketheirandourlivesbetter.”■ ■ ■Thehomelesscertainlyhavenoexpectations.“Thisisjustlikeanyothercity.”Alanfoldshiskneesunderhischinandcloseshiseyes.“You’lldoallright.It’snotideal.It’samatterofworkingyourwayoutofit.Alotofguysfeelstranded.Everyone’salwaysgoingbackhome.I’mgoingback,they’lltellyou,butthey’retrapped.Theyneverseemtogetittogether.There’salwaysthatpossibility:I’vegottwentydollarsburningaholeinmypocket.I’mgoingtogetlucky,I’mgoingtogetoutofhere.“Andthentheyblowit.”Herollsoverontohisstomachandjamshisarmsunderhishead.IwaituntilIhearhimsnore,andthenIgetup.Iwalkbacktowardthepathanddigintomypocketformywatch.Awadofbillsandacreditcardemergealongwithit.Ididn’twanttotellAlan,butIhadaroom.■ ■ ■Myroom,oneofseveralIhadfoundlistedonahousing-referralsheettackedtotheofficewallofMASHcaseworkerJoséSanchez,looksoutattheStripthroughmildewedcurtains.TheMotelRegency:onehundreddollarsaweek.Thetoiletrunscontinuallyanddriedurinerotsthechippedtiles.Asinglelightbulbontheceilingcastsapalehepatitisyellowoverthecrackedwalls.IknowoffouralternativesheltersnotonJosé’shousinglist:theGoldSpike,UnionPlaza,Western,andElCortezcasinos.Longonoddsbuteasyonthepocket,thesecasinosboastpennyslotmachinesandserve24-hourbreakfaststhatofferthreeeggs,sausage,andtoastforaslittleas47b cMalcolmGarcianinety-ninecents.Eventhemostdown-and-outcanaffordtheseprices,particularlyiftheyhavebloodtosell.Fourdowntownclinicsoffermoneyforblood.First-timedonorswaitsevendaysfortheirbloodtobetestedandapproved,andthentheyreceivethirtydollars.Limitedtothreedonationsamonth,thedonorearnsthirty-dollarswitheachvisit.IwasunabletogivebloodbecauseIwasnotaNevadaresident,andIcouldn’tshowproofofanypermanentaddress.Thereasonfortheseregu-lations,anurseinformedme,wastopreventtheclinicsfrombecomingmagnetsforthehomeless.ItwashardtobelievethatpeopledeliberatelymovetoNevadatoearn,atmost,ninetydollarsamonth;andgiventhatthirtypercentofthecity’shomelesshavebeeninthestatefiveyearsormore,itseemedamootpointinanycase.Innopositiontoargue,IlefttheclinicandwandereduptotheGoldSpike.Despitedoorsopentothestreetandtwoceilingfans,thecasinohadastale,mustysmell,likearoomthathadbeenrecentlyclearedofmothballs.Ablackjacktabletookupthemiddleofthefloor.Thedealersatonastoolwearingawrinkledwhiteshirtandathinblackstringtielooselyknottedandcrookedlyoff-center.Hecuppedhischininonehandandarolledachipintheother.Iboughtthreeone-dollarpennyrollsandsatdownataslotmachine.Besidemewasaprostitute,whotoldmeshewas“notworking.”Nexttoherawomaninabeigebusinesssuitandhighheelsbalancedacellularphoneagainstherleftshoulderandcountedahandfulofpennies.Onmyotherside,ascraggly-lookingmanIrecognizedfromSt.Vin-cent’ssatholdingaplasticbagstuffedwithshoes.Heseemedtowinastreamofcoinswitheveryfifththrow.Iaskedhimifhehadastrategy.“Don’tnigglewithyourmoney,”heexplained.“Youcan’twinplayingonepennyatatime.Yougottoputinatleastfive.”Hesaidhecouldmakeadollarlastanhour,andatthatratestretchthirtydollarsoverthreedays.Tofinancehisgambling,heeithersoldbloodorfounddaylabor.“Ialmosthadthreesevensonetime.Igotuptousethebathroomandtheseoldladiescomein.It’saroundsixthirtyinthemorningandtheygotthesevens.Ihadjustgotuptoo.”Awaitresswalkedover,askedwhatIwasdrinking,andbroughtbackafreebeer.“Tiphereverythirdtimeifyouwanttokeepdrinking,”themanadvisedme.Iputinfivepenniesandpulledthelever.Twentycentstumbledintothetray.“Justkeepputtingitbackin,”themansaid.“Sticktothis.Don’tplay48b cDownandOutinVegasthepokerslots.Ineverhadnoluckonthose.Ifyouwanttotryit—yourmoney.Ifyougetastraightyougetfiftydollars.”I’dalmostuseduponerollofpennieswhenonthelastpullIwonfivedollars.Thestreamofpenniesclatteringintothemetaltrayseemedtorunforever.“Say,honey,”theprostitutesaid,“youdidprettygood.Wantasuck?”“No,thankyou,”Isaid.Sheturnedbacktohermachine.“Yougottalovethistown,”saidmyfriendfromSt.Vincent’s.■ ■ ■JoséSanchezknewthataninformalhomelessnetworkexistedinsomecasinos,butsaidhehadneverseenithimself.AcaseworkerwithMASHCrisisCenterforthreeyears,JosémovedtoLasVegasin1994soheandhiswifecouldcareforhiswife’sailingaunt.“Igetthefeelingpeopleareattractedbygamblingandthelife,”hesaidexaminingafile.“Freedrinks,allkindsofaction.Findtheoddquarterandturnitintoafortune.There’snotmuchhelp.Vegasisnotreallyhos-pitable.Buttheyalwayscomeback.”JoséleansbackinhischairandwaitsforGregAbernathy,aVeterans’AdministrationrepresentativewhoworksatMASHtwiceaweek,tofin-ishhisinterviewwithGloria,anarmyveteranandaclientofJosé’s.GloriawasthrownoutofMASHVillageforsmokingcrack.TheVillage,Josétellsme,doesn’ttoleratedrugs.■ ■ ■Surroundedbyatall,black,spikedsecuritygateandpleasantlylandscapedinsouthwesternstyle,MASHVillage,apink,squarebuildingacrossfromSt.Vincent’sdininghallonMainStreet,hasthreehundredbedsforfam-iliesandsinglewomen.Agold“donationtree”hangsonthewallofthereceptionroom,witheachleafrepresentingadonor:MirageResorts,theGliddenCompany,GoodNewsInc.,andmanyothers.Behindtherecep-tionarea,staffofficesandclientquartersspreaddowntwohallways.Withthehazyglowoffluorescentlightingbouncingofftheshiny,tiledfloorsandyellowwall,theVillageremindsmeofahospital.ClientsentertheVillageforeitherfourmonthsortwoyears.Theshorterprogrampreparesclientsforthelongerone,whichoffersintensive49b cMalcolmGarciacase-managementservices:drugcounseling,jobplacement,andremedialeducation,amongotherthings.Myguide,Mary,isfifty-two.AnativeofNevada,shelivedbrieflyinCaliforniauntilshesufferedabackinjuryatarestaurantinSantaMonicaandlostherjob.“Ireallydidn’tknowanyoneinCalifornia,”sheexplains.“ButIknewpeoplehere.Iknewthesystem.”Shelivesinalarge,crowdeddormitorywheresheandanotherwomanshareabunkbed.Clothingstuffedintotheirnarrowquartersspillsontothefloor.Wrappedinabathrobe,herbarefootbunkmatepushespastus,jostlingrowsofstuffedanimalsperchedonadivider.Bodyodorpermeatestheroom,asitdoesothersheltersI’vevisited.Despitetheavailabilityofshowers,deodorant,mouthwash,cleanclothandlaunderedlinens,thesheervolumeofpeoplesqueezedintoonecrampedspacecreatesanotice-ablefunk.Groaningloudly,Maryraisesherarmsandstretches.Sheexplainsthatsheworkedatherjobataprintingcompanyuntil5:30thismorning.“IgotinatsixAM,justastheyturnedthelightsonforwake-up,”shesaysstiflingoneofmanyyawns.“I’vemadeallmyimportantcalls,I’llgooutforrecreation.Theydon’twantyououtgambling,buttherealityofthethingisthisisLasVegas.Ifyouplayagameofbingothatdoesn’tmakeyouaddictive.ThreeorfourtimesamonthIplayonesessionofbingoforthreedollars.”AsMarywalksmethroughthequiethalls,Inoticecamerasintheceil-ing.Sheexplainsthatstaffobservetheresidentsaroundtheclock.“Privatetimeisrealscarcearoundhere,”shesays.■ ■ ■“José!”JoséandIenterGregAbernathy’sofficeandsitdown.Abernathy,abald,heavy-setblackmanwearingabluepoloshirtandjeans,restshiselbowsonhisdeskandlooksatJosé.HewantstohearfromhimbeforeheoffershisopiniononGloria’scase.“Shesaysshetestedpositivebecauseshewasaroundpeoplewithcrack,”Josésays.Abernathyshakeshishead.“Sheknowsshesmokedit,andisjustcom-ingupwithanexcuse,”hesays.“She’sgotonedirtyurineanalysisalready,”Josésays.“TwoUA’sandyou’reoutofthere.”“Canshestayifshegoesintoaprogram?”“Wecan’tadvocateforthem.She’llhavetoadvocateforherself.”50b cDownandOutinVegas“Can’tadvocateforyourclient?Whatisthat?Changenumberforty-five?”“Theysay:‘You’reCrisisnow.We’retheVillage.Handsoff.’”“ShehasbeenintheprogramsinceFebruary,”saysAbernathy,protest-ing.“Shecan’treapplyforsixtydaysifshe’sthrownout.”“She’llhavetobouncearoundalittlebit.ShadeTree,SalvationArmy,RescueMission.”AbernathyexaminesGloria’sfile.DiagnosedwithPost-TraumaticStressDisorderresultingfromwhatAbernathysuspectswasasexualassault,herclinicalhistorysuggestsanotheroption.“ShecouldgothroughtheSalvationArmyalcoholprogramorgetintotheirmental-healthprojectwiththePTSDandintoalcoholtreatmentthroughthemental-healthprogram.OrtheKeyFoundation;theyhavehousingforvets,”saysAbernathy.Josénods,thinking.■ ■ ■Gloriafoldsherarmsandrollsherheadagainstthewaiting-roomwallasthetwomendebateherfate.Herblackhairfallsevenlyoverhershoul-ders,andherpressedjeansandwhiteblousecontrastsharplywiththewornthrift-storeapparelofherpeers.Halfadozenpeoplewaitsilentlyfortheircasemanagersinthedimlylightedroom.Thepea-greenwalls,clutteredwithfadedflyersofmissingpersons,absorbwhatlittlelightshinesfromthestutteringbulbsintheceil-ing.Ron,apleasantbutboredsecurityguardinanill-fittingbrownuniform,slouchescarelesslyatametaldesk.Hewakensamanasleepinachair.“Nosleeping,”hesays.Adoorleadsfromthewaitingroomtothecrowdedreceptionarea.Inacubiclesimilartoabankteller’s,awomanstandsbehindawindowgrillandfacesalineofmenandwomenstandingunevenlyinfrontofher.“YoucantryCatholicCharities,”Ioverhearhersaythroughthewall.“Iwastoldtocomehere,”amancomplains.“We’renotafinancial-aidagency.”“Ineedahealthcard,too.”“TrySalvationArmy.”“ButIwastold…”“We’restrictlyareferralagency.Wescreen,assessneed,andreferout.”Amousescramblesacrossthefloor,interruptingmyeavesdropping.51b cMalcolmGarcia“Damn!”amanshouts.Halfadozenpeopleswingtheirlegsupandcocktheirheadstooneside.“Waittillthewholefamilyrunsthrough,”Rondeadpans.Gloriasmilesbrieflybeforeherfaceresumesitshardexpression.ShehasjustfinishedseeingMartaValenzuela,analcoholismcounselorfromtheCommunityHealthCenterwhoworksatMASHCrisisCenteronTuesdaymornings.Hersession,shesays,wasunproductive.“Wheneverpeoplefirstmeetme,theyjumptoconclusionsandwanttolectureme,”shecomplains.“ThelastthingIneededwasalecture.Shehadtolectureme:‘Onedayatatime.’Idon’twanttohearherlecture.Shedidn’tcare.”SherepeatsthistoJoséwhenhecallsherbackintohisoffice.“Isthattheimpressionyougot?”Josésays.Shenods.“Well,whatabouttheKeyFoundation?Theyworkwithveterans.”GloriarestsherheadagainstJosé’sdesk.“Anything,”shewhispers.“Where’sitat?”Josétellsherandsheleaves.IwatchhergoandhearJosésay,“That’ssad.”Iturnaround.Hehasalreadypickedupanotherfile.■ ■ ■Thatafternoon,backatherofficeintheHealthCenter,MartaValenzuelawon’tcommentonGloria’scasedirectly.Instead,sheexplainsthedifficul-tiesshefacesworkingwithaddictsina“twenty-four-hourtown.”“Ninetypercentofmyclientshavegamblingandalcoholproblems.Drugs,meth,cocaine.Heroinisstartingtocomeback.Gamblingisoneofthewaystoraisemoneyforthis.Justbeingaroundcasinos,theyhaveaccesstofreealcohol.They’llbetalkingabouttheirdrinkingandthenthey’llsay,‘Iwasdroppingsomequarters.’TodayIhadamandropelevenhundreddollarsworthofquarters.Itcomesupinconversation.“ThistownisDisneyland.Theywantpeopletocome.Anyviceyouwantyoucandohere.There’sgottobesomeethicsinthis.Thereisanothingnesscomingoverthiscity.Wearefightingnothingness.”■ ■ ■MartasuggestsIseeJuliaOcchiogrosso,whoworksfull-timeforCatholicWorker,alayRomanCatholicactivistmovement.Julia,Martasays,52b cDownandOutinVegas“unconditionally”loveshomelesspeople.Ijothernamedown,thenhurryoutofMarta’sofficetobeatthelinefortheSalvationArmyshelter.IarriveatSallie’satfourintheafternoon.Althoughtheshelteropensatfive,thelineforbedsbeginsmuchearlier.Womencanstayattheshel-terindefinitely,butmen,restrictedtoaseven-daystayeverysixmonths,moveinandoutconstantly.Dividedintotwosections,thesheltersepa-ratesnotonlythesexes,butchildrenfromtheirparentsaswell;whenhisweekisup,evenafatherwithchildrenonthepremisesmustfindshelterelsewhere.(“We’refromChicago.MywifeandmykidsareatShadeTree.Werecentlygotmarriedandmovedoutheretomakeanewstart,butmywife’spursewasstolenatLadyLuckwithtwelvehundreddollarsinit.Itwasn’taregularpurse,itwasaplanner,acalculator.We’llneverdothatagain.Ibelikesleepinginthepark.Thingshavenotbeenworkingoutright.”)Wegatheroutsideonbenchessurroundedbyourbundlesofclothing,rolledblankets,suitcases,andbackpacks.Alarge,outdoorstorageareaprovidesaplaceforustotossourthings,butasignsayingSTOREATYOUROWNRISKsuggestswhatcouldhappenifweusedit.TheSalvationArmyrentssixtylockersatfivedollarsamonth,butthelongwaitinglistpre-ventsallbutthemostdeterminedapplicantsfromgettingone.Glen,amemberoftheshelterstaff,holdsaclipboardmarked“ExtendedShelterStayRegistration.”Forthreedollarsanight,mencanreserveoneofforty-twobunkbedsintheTDorm.Originally,thesebedswereforhomelessmenwhohadrecentlygottenjobsandneededtempo-rary(T)inexpensivelodginguntiltheyearnedenoughtorentaroom;now,TDormprovidesindefiniteshelteryear-roundforanyonewhocanpayforit.Glenstandsoutsideandcallsthenamesontheclipboard.Athickcoat-ingofdustcoversthehair,face,andpatterneddressofafive-year-oldgirlwatchinghim.Shesitsbesideherparents,bothdressedinoverallsandhuddledovertwosuitcasesheldtogetherwithtwine.“Kennedy!”Glenbellows.ThegirljumpsupimitatingGlen’sstanceandshouts,“Kennedy!”“Franklin!”“Franklin!”thegirlpipesup.“Miller!”“Miller!”Thegirl’sfathergrabsherhand,sitsherdown,andordershertostayput.Herfacecrumbles,butshedoesnotcry.Herexpressionwithdrawsintoablankpokerface.Dull-eyed,shelooksatGlen,mouthingsoftlythenameshecontinuestocall.53b cMalcolmGarciaBackinside,GlentellshiscoworkerJohnthatnoneofthepeopleonthewaitinglistshowedupfortheTDorm.Glendropstheclipboardonadesk,grabsafistfulof“lodgingcards,”andwalksbackoutside.First-timersgetpriorityintheshelter.Glenpunchesthenumberoneonacard,handsittoanewclient,andletshiminside.Themanstopsatadeskstaffedbyavolunteerandblowsintoabreathalyzer.Afamilyfollowsbehindhim;thechildrenbegtoblowintoittoo.Whenthemantestsneg-ative,Johnissueshimamat.Thelinemovesrapidly.Johntypesintoacomputereachperson’snameandthenumberofnightstheyhavestayedintheshelter.“Kennedy!YouwerecalledforTDorm.”“Yes,sir.”“Youstillwantit?”“Yes,sir.”“Seethemanoutside,”hesayspointingtowardGlen.“Nextinline!”Acouplestepsforwardwithasmallboy.“Howmanykidsyougot?”“One.”“Who’swatchingthem?”Thecouplehesitates.“Paul,”themothersaystoherson,“StaywithmeunlessyouwanttostaywithPoppa.”Theboyholdshisfather’shandbutreachesforhismother.“Ineedtoknow,”Johnsays,“soIcanputafamilymatdownforoneofyou.”Theboystayswithhismother.Anothercouplewithababystandnextinline.“HeyJohn,weswitch-ing,”thewomansays.“I’mtakingthebabyforachange.”Amantriestoslipinwithoutstopping.Johnyellsathimtostopatthedesk.“Ilikeit,”Johnsaystomeashetypestheman’snameintothecom-puter.“Thisjob’sahundredmilesanhourforme.That’swhatIlike.IwassellingcondosinFlorida,butIblewmymoney.Icameouthereandblewmoremoneyondrugsandgambling.WhenIgottothisshelterIheardaboutday-laborjobsandsignedup.ThenextdayIbreakmyarminacon-structionjob.So,I’minTDormwithabustedarmandItalktoGlen.He’sfromDaytona,sowehadFloridaincommon.Hesays,Canyouuseacomputer?AndIgetthisjob.”Theshelterfillstocapacity,withseventymenandfiftywomen.Peo-plewatchtelevisionorshufflecards.Twowomensitbythemselvesandplayvideopokeronpocketcalculatorsnexttoamakeshiftnurserywhere54b cDownandOutinVegascouplesjugglecryinginfants,plasticbottles,soiledbabyclothes,anddirtydiapers.■ ■ ■Abovethenoise,Glenrattlesofftheshelterrules:showersafterchapel,lightsoffatten,staffnotresponsibleforstolenitems,absolutelynoalco-holordrugs,mandatorychurchservicesatsevenPM.Theshortwalktochapelthateveningallowsforacigarettebreak.Wesmokeandmoveslowlytowardasmallwhitebuildingabouttwohundredyardsahead.Amanpushesawomaninawheelchairuparamp,andIfol-lowtheminside.Threerowsofpewsformahalfcirclearoundasquarepodium.Alarge,redcrucifixhangsoffonewallbesideaclock.Thewomansittingnexttomecomplainsaboutthe“asshole”besideher,whoisslumpedinhischair,snoringsoftly.Shiftingawayfromhim,sheshimmiesontotheedgeofmychair,andwemakeourselvesascom-fortableaspossible.Inashortwhile,shefallsasleepagainstmyshoulder.Childrensquirmintheirparents’arms,andmothershurrythemout-side.Peoplewithoutchildrengiveuptheirseatsandstandbythedoorlikeusherspointingfamiliestowardemptypews.Abovetheinfants’squalls,amaninaredturtlenecksweaterandpressedgreenslacksintroduceshimselfasthisevening’spreacher.Heimploresustogiveupourlivesto“Himwhoresidesaboveinheaven.”“Jesuspaidadebthedidnotoweforus.We’renotnicepeople.We’reallsinners.Weneededsomeonetowashoursinsaway.Forthathewastried,sentenced,andhung.TheJewswantedtoseehimhung.TheJewsbelieveinvindictiveness.Jesusdidnotbelievetheirpaganreligion,andhedefiedthemandrosefromthedead.”Thepreacherpacesbackandforth,lipspursedintently.“Threeweeksago,Ilostacheckforeighthundredandfiftydollars,”hesaysdragginghishandsthroughhishair.“Iwasalittlestressedout,asyoucanimagine.Ilookedeverywhereandcouldn’tfindit.WhatwasIdoingwrong?Iwasthinkingofmyself.IhadstoppedsharingmylifewithGod.Iwasfocusedonmortaltrappings.IhadabandonedHim.Igotonmykneesandwept.IbeggedHisforgiveness.ThenIheardavoice.Itsaid,Lookbetweenthefrontseatsofthecar.Thereyou’llfindthecheck.”Hestopsandlookspointedlyateachofus.Theknotofpeopleatthedoormurmursinhushedtones.“Godspoketome!”saysthepreacher.55b cMalcolmGarciaHecrouches,clutchinghisfistsacrosshischest.Hisfacereddensandheshakesontremblinglegs.Squinchingoneeyeopenandthentheother,hewaitsforhistruthtorevealitselftous,butwelostsinnersturnawayandlookattheclock.■ ■ ■JuliaOcchiogrossoprayswhilesheworksinherkitchenonLasVegas’seconomicallydepressedWestside.ShescoopsglobsofpeanutbutterandstrawberryjellyintosmallStyrofoambowlsandsetsthemonatraynexttoloosestacksofbread.Herhusband,Gary,lugsbucketsofsteamingcoffeetoatruckparkedoutside.Hespentyesterdaygrindingbagafterbagofcoffeebeansforthisweek’sfreefeed;now,standingbesidethetruck,heusescolanderholderstoscoopupcoffeegroundsthathavesettledinthebottomofthebuckets.EveryWednesday,Thursday,Friday,andSaturday,Julia,Gary,andsev-eralvolunteersdrivetheshortdistancetoEthelPearsonParktofeedthehomeless.“Wetrytodowhat’sgoodforthem,”Juliasays.“Establishingarelationshipwiththemisabigpartofit.We’retakingpeopleandsaying:youbelongtoafamily.”TheCatholicWorkermovementwasbegunbyDorothyDayinthe1930samidtheunrestoftheGreatDepression.Themovement,whichhasnoofficialconnectiontotheChurch,servesasaconscienceformain-streamCatholics,accordingtoJulia.HavingjoinedtheCatholicWorkermovementinLosAngelesin1982,JuliabroughtthemovementtoLasVegasfouryearslater.“LasVegaswasjuststartingtogrowagaininnineteeneighty-six,”sherecalls.“Itwaskindoflikeasmalltown.St.Vincent’shadashelter,andyouhadtheRescueMissionandSalvationArmy.Thosethreewerethemainprovidersatthetime.“Wetalkedtostreetpeople.Theyadvisedustostartbringingcoffeeforwhentheywereturnedoutoftheshelters.Westartedtodothatatsix-thirtyinthemorning.Whenwestarted,itwasmaybeseventyguys.Nowitcanbeasmanyasthreehundredtothreehundredfiftypeople.”Ourcarsformasmallcaravanthatinchestowardthepark.Garydrivesslowlysoasnottospillthecoffee.Iaminchargeofcups,anddriveahead.BythetimeIarrive,aboutonehundredhomelesspeoplehavegath-eredinthepark.Theymillaroundquietly,formingalineonthecurb.IholdmycupsandwaitforJuliaandGarytoarrive.Everyoneinlinewatchesme.56b cDownandOutinVegas“You’renewtocupdetail?”amanasks.HeextendsatentativehandandIgivehimarollofcups.Heopensthewrapperandpassesoutthecupstotheimpatientline.“See,they’llcomewiththecoffeeandwejustserveourselves.”HesmilesandassuresmeI’mdoingjustfine.Thecoffeebreakfeelslikeacommunalpicnic,andwhenGaryandJuliapullup,everyonepitchesinandhelpscarrycollapsibletablesandtraysofbread,peanutbutter,jelly,andcoffee.Juliawatchesthepeopleeat.Shewatchesbirdshopbetweentheirlegs,peckingatcrumbs,andhearsthebucketssloshwithcoffee,thetraysscrapedclean.“There’sawantingandlongingforcommunitywitheachother,”Juliasays.“Awantingofsomethingdeeper.Youkindofthinkofthatwhenyouthinkofwhereyouwanttodieasyougetolder.Thesepeo-plehere,manyofthem,aregoingtodiealone.”■ ■ ■DespitethegoodworksofJuliaandothers,somehomelesspeoplewantnothingtodowithcharity.Theyhaveuntangledthemselvesfromthecity’ssafetynetandfledtoitsouterfringes.SquatsfillravinesanddriedriverbedsborderingtheedgesofLasVegas,likethird-worldoutposts.Livingacat-and-mouseexistence,thepeopleintheseencampmentsarepartofaDarwinianstandoff,withdevelopersonestepbehind.IhelpJuliacleanupafterthefeeding,thendriveacrosstowntomeetShawn,atwenty-nine-year-oldself-described“sandrat,”livinginFlamingoWash.Shawn’scampliesattheintersectionofDecaturandTropicana,whereDecaturdeadendsintodesert.Shirtsandpantsclingtothebranchesofthornybrush,andsmokedriftscasuallyfromasmolderingcampfire.Plasticshoppingbagsbounceacrosstheground,wrappingarounddiscardedradios,watches,televisions,teddybears,pizzaboxes,bicycleparts,backpacks,andsleepingbags.Stonesandscrapmetalformsquaresdefiningsleepingareas.“Everyone’soutcanning,”Shawnexplains.Wesitdowninhis“lot”andshareacigarette.Shawnlivesinalargesquarehutpiecedtogetherfromplywoodandcorrugatedcardboard.Ipushbacktheblanketdoorandseethesleepingbag,paperbackbooks,andplasticwaterbottlesthatcomprisehishome.AnoldcopyofHustlermagazineprotrudesfrombeneaththesleepingbag.Behindthehutstandsamakeshiftkitchen,wheretwostacksofbrickssupportashornmetaltrashbarrel.Shawnlightsafirebetweenthebricksandcracksaneggon57b cMalcolmGarciathebarrel.Theeggslowlysizzles.Heflipsitonce,twice,scoopsituponaspatula,andslidesitintohismouth.ShawncametoLasVegasin1995tobeapokerdealer.Hehasadiffer-entplannow.“I’mgoingtosavemoneytogetmyownplace,andthenIwanttostartanadvertisingcompanyontheInternet.WhenI’mbackonmyfeetI’llgetacomputer.I’vealreadysavedtwohundreddollars.”IaskhimifhehasconsideredenrollinginSt.Vincent’sjobprogram.Afterall,Isay,you’dbeguaranteedshelter,threedailymeals,andregularopportunitiestowork.“I’veneveraskedhelpfromanybody,”herespondswithahurtlook.“IfIcan’tmakeendsmeetonmyown,theywon’tbemet.”Shawnhaslivedatthissiteforthreemonths,eversincehelosthisjobatLotusScenicTours.Unabletopayrent,hecameouttothedesert.“I’vebeenanoutdoorpersonallmylife.Iwasoriginallyfurtheroutinthedesertneartheairport,butoverherethere’sanofficebuildingthatletsusintotakespongebaths.”HegetsoddjobsthroughLaborExpress,aday-laborreferralagencydowntown.Heusedtowalkthreehourstotheiroffice,gettingupattwointhemorning,beforeheboughtabuspass.Whenourconversationends,Shawncrawlsintohishutandbetweenthecoversofhissleepingbag.Icanseeonlyhiseyes.Shawnwatchesme,anocturnalanimalconcealedinhisden.■ ■ ■IntheofficeofEdFicker,thedirectorofSt.Vincent’sjobprogram,alargebustofMarkTwainsitssquarelyonabookshelffilledwithantholo-giesofthewriter’sworkaswellasacopyofHuckleberryFinn.Aslipofpapertapedabovethebustbearstheline,“Ihavebeenanauthorfortwentyyearsandanassforfifty-five.”“MarkTwainisoneofmyheroes,”Fickerexplains.Atall,trimmanwithashockofwhitehairrolledbackfromhisforehead,Fickertalksinasoftmidwesterndrawlthatrollswordslikecandy.“IgothookedonTwainbymydad.IstartedoffwithO.Henry.ThenJackLondon.MydadlikedCalloftheWild.It’sametaphor.It’saboutcomfort,struggle,thewild,andreturningtoresponsibility.“HenryFordsaidcharitydoesnotcurepoverty.Onlyworkdoes.WhenthegovernmenttoldSittingBullthey’dprovideforhimandhispeopleonareservation,hetoldthegovernmenttogotohell.WenttoCanadainstead,wherehecouldliveandworkwithoutdependenceonthegovernment.58b cDownandOutinVegas“I’msortofintherecyclingbusiness.Idealwitharaceofpeoplewhoarealmostnonfunctional.Ihavetobuilduptheirintegrityandtheirwilltowork.”Fickershowsmeaphotographofahomelessmanwithanunkemptbeardandshaggylonghair.Expressionless,hecarriesabackpackandstaresattheground.“He’sbroke,doesn’thaveI.D.,aslowashecanbeonthepole,right?”Fickerholdsupanotherphotograph.Aclean-shavenmanwithshorthairandawide,toothygrinbeamsbackatme.He’sdevelopedapotbelly,andlookslikejustoneoftheguysinared-stripedpoloshirt,jeans,andtennisshoes.“Samemanthreeweekslater.Hehashisownplaceandcanbuygoodsinthecommunity,likeyouandme.”Theprogramservesfourhundredmenatatime.In1996elevenhun-dredparticipantsfoundfull-timeemployment,andthirteenthousandofferingsforcasuallaborweretaken.“Isendguysout,andattheendofthedaytheywindupwithforty-sixdollarsintheirpocket,”saysFicker,whoworriesaboutthelureofcasinos.“AmIconcerned?SureI’mconcerned.“LasVegasisextremelyunique.Theguyonthestreetcanstilldream.Noothercityintheworldcouldhestilldream.Allyouneedisfourorfivebucksconvertedintoquartersandthere’sthisfantasyofhittingthejack-pot.Cashinhandcanmeanathousanddollarsorabsolutelynothing.”■ ■ ■Fiveo’clock,lightsout,officesclosed.MASH,theKeyFoundation,St.Vincent’swithitsemploymentcenteranddininghallsinkintoshadows.Ascaseworkersandadministratorsunlocktheircars,securitysystemsshriek.Inafewminutestheparkinglotisempty,exceptfortwovansandastationwagonhunkeredinforthenight.Beardedoldmen,amputees,anddischargedhospitalpatientsbandagedorwithcrutchessitonthecurbstonewaitingtoenterSt.Vincent’smen’sshelter,aprogramlimitedtoseniorcitizensandthedisabled.AsatSalva-tionArmy,nopersonalbelongingsareallowedinside.Likeaticketscalper,thedriverofapickuptruckparksoutsidetheshelterandoffersovernightstoragefor“adollarapop.”(“Can’tcarrypropertyinhere,”avolunteertellsme.“It’sjustmyjacket,”Isay.“Putiton.”)59b cMalcolmGarciaVolunteersfromSt.Vincent’sjobprogrammakeuptheshelterstaff.TheysitinasmalllivingroomneartheentranceandwatchTV,orplaymahjongonacomputer.Twosofasandseveralchairsformacirclearoundabookshelfthatholdsacoffeemakerandcups.Twohundredbunkbedsfillthehall,ofwhichseventeenarereservedforthedisabled.Someofthebedsdon’thavemattresses,sothestaffthrowsblackrubberfloormatsovertheboxsprings.Eachbedhasablan-ket,butnosheetsorpillows.Withonlyonetoiletavailable,Itakecareofbusinessoutside,alongwithseveralothers.Oncethebedsaresetup,theshelteropensforthenight.(“AmIspinningmywheelskickingoutsomeonewho’sfifty-three?”asksavolunteer.“Ididn’tmaketherules.Fifty-fiveandolderiswhatwe’retold,”theshiftsupervisorsays.“Hesaidhetalkedtoyou.”“Talkedtome?Noonetalkedtome.Whoishe?”“Hey,withtheredshirt.Comewithus.”)EightPM.Lightsout.InthedarkIhearhorrendoussnoresandfarts,furtivewhispers,obscenejokes.Igetnervous.OneofTerryWhitacker’sstaffcaughttuberculosisworkinghere,andIamsurroundedbycoughingpeople.ThemoreIthinkaboutit,themoreworriedIget,untilparanoiafinallypropelsmeoutthedoor.“Youwon’tbeallowedbackin,”thesupervisorwarnsme.Outside,maskedintheglowofabarebulb,volunteersswatatgnatsandsmokecigarettes.Volunteersnotondutyhangout,too.Theyhavenoplacetogoexcepttheirownbunkbeds,inastuffy,windowlessdormitoryattheotherendoftheplaza,ripewithsweat,stalebreath,anddirtyclothes.(“Thisblankethascritters!”Ihearsomeoneshout.“Whathavetheyeverdonetoyou?”avolunteeryellsback.“Shutup.”“Keepitdownoreverybody’sgonnawantone.”)IattachmyselftoRobert,avolunteer.AVietnamveteran,Robertspendshisdaysattheshelterrunningerrands.“Aren’tyouexpectedtogetajob?”Iask.“Youdon’thavetolookforworkaslongasyoudotheirwork,”hesays.Robertdoesn’twanttoreturntohisbunk,buthedoesn’twanttoremainattheshelter,either.Hepacesbackandforthuntilfinallyhewan-derstowardMainStreetandIfollowhimintoGabe’s,anearbybaradoptedbythevolunteersastheirpersonalretreat.Robertrecognizessomeofhiscohorts;theyappeartobedrinkingsodaorcranberryjuice,60b cDownandOutinVegasbutheassuresmethere’svodkaineachglass.Thebarhasthreevideo-pokergamesandtwopooltables.Asignabovethevideogamesreads,“TheRulesAreRealSimple.YouMustBuyADrinkNotOffSaleToPlaySlotsOrPoolTables.”Anothersign,postedbehindthebarandabovetwoshelvesofliquorbottles,warns,“IfYouCanKeepYourHeadInAllThisConfusionYouDon’tUnderstandTheSituation.”Robertsighs,drumminghisfingersonthebar.Hesuggestsanotherplace,theSilverSaddle,astripjointnotfaraway.Wewalkintothepitch-blackandnearlyemptybarandorderbeers.Ared-headed,freckle-facedwomancomesinbehindusandasksaboutwork.Slightlybuilt,shelooksbarelyoutofherteens,andIcan’timaginewhatshe’sdoinghere.Shesaysshelivesinatransitional-housingprogramandhasworkedstripsbefore.Thebleached-blondebartendertellshertocomebackThursdayforanaudition,whichmeansshewillhavetowaitaweek.Theseventieshit“StayingAlive”providesmusicforastripperdancingonahugecirculartableinanotherroommuchlargerbutequallydark.Sheappearstobeinherfortiesandclompsacrossthetablewearingnothingbutabluesilkshirt,pinkpanties,andblackplatformshoes.Sheslowlyunbuttonshershirt,shakingherbreastsatamansittingnearby.Thensheturnsaround,bendsover,and,withherheadbetweenherlegs,slapsher-selfhardontheass.“Whowantsanasssam’ich?”sheshoutsbetweenherlegs.Sherollsherhipsaboveamanwhooffersheradollarbill,andsqueezesthebillbetweenherbreasts.Shewrapsherselfaroundagoldpolethatrisesupthroughthecenterofthetable,spinninginaslowcircle.Suddenlyshesneezes,once,twice,threetimesinrapidsuccession.Unabletostop,shepressesthedollaragainsthernoseandhugsthepole.Staticover-whelmsthespeakersandthemusiccutsoff,providingherwithatempo-raryreprieve.SheshoutsatthebartenderforacigaretteandaKleenex.“MayIjoinyou,honey?”AstripperpullsupastoolandsettlesdownbesideRobert.Sheleansagainstthebarandlightsacigarette,revealingherchestthroughalooselyknottedbathrobe.Herbodysagsagainstthebarinrolls.“I’mjustdrinkingcoffee,”Robertsays.“Youain’taboutshit,areyou,honey?”■ ■ ■WewalkupOwenspasttheemptypark,thesilentprojects,andtheSalva-tionArmysheltertoanoverpassbesideasetofrailroadtracksrunning61b cMalcolmGarciadeepintodarkness.Beneaththebridgeliecoffinrowsofsleepingpeople.Robertpointstoamanwhoseshavedhead,crossedwithstitches,shinesinthemoonlight.“Someguysbeathimwithhisshoppingcart,”hesays.Robertsuggestswestayhere.HehasnodesiretoreturntoSt.Vin-cent’sPlaza.Hedescribeshisfellowvolunteersaspigeonswho,grantedalittleauthority,haveturnedintohawks.Hedoesn’tthinkhewillstayintheprogramlong.■ ■ ■Fouro’clockinthemorning.Iwakeupandlurchtomyfeet,stiffwithcolddespitetheblanketsomeonethrewoverme.Robertstirsbesideme,asdoesanothermanwhoplanstowalktoacasual-laboroutlet.IhavemycarbackatSt.Vincent’sandofferhimaride.Herollsuphisbagandwestumbledownthehill,scroungingforcigarettes.Inanhour,Owenswillexperienceapedestrianrushhour,startingwiththeSalvationArmy,whichawakensitsclientsatfive.Thehomelesswhohavesleptinbushes,underbridges,andbesiderailroadtracksjointheseshelteredhomelessinadawnmarchtoSt.Vincent’sfordonutsandcoffeeatsix,araggedbandtintedredinthesunrise,steamedandweavingdownthestreet.Robert,Joe,andIgetinmycar.IdriveontoMainStreet,butsuddenlyJoeasksmetoturndownLasVegasBoulevardtowardtheStrip.“It’sbeenalongtime,”hesays.62b Bingo!MichelleLingItisbarely8amonSundayandthethickdesertairisalreadyontheedgeofuncomfortablywarm.MarjorieMillerstandsatthefrontofherbungalow-styleseniorcitizens’apartmentcomplex,pattinghersilverhairandfiddlingwiththegoldcrucifixatherbreast.Hercasualgreenpolyesterslacksandwhitesneakersfittheall-purposedresscodeforLasVegasretirees.Thewords“TenCommandments,”printedonherT-shirt,peekoutfromherzipperedsweater.Shechecksherwatch,butnotinthemannerofsomeonewhoislate.Sheisn’t.Herbusisn’tscheduledtoarriveforanotherfifteenminutes.“Itgetshereatabouteight-ten.Theysayeight-fifteen,butit’susuallyeight-ten—neveraftereight-twelve.Ithinktheycomeearlysoeveryonehasalittleextratime,andtheycanhelppeoplewithwalkersandthings,”shesays.Marjorieshouldknow.ShehasbeentakingthisshuttleeverySundaymorningsinceshemovedtoLasVegastenyearsago.“Theydon’tactuallystartuntilnine,buttheygetyoutherealittleearlysoyoucanchatwithpeo-pleyouknow—evenprayalittlebeforehand!”shegiggles.“There’sagroupthatIalwayssee,ofcourse,andwealwayssittogether,saveeachotherseats.Ofcourse,youdon’ttalkwhileit’sgoingon.Otherwisepeoplecan’thear.”It’sacommonenoughscene,oneyoumightseeinanyAmericantown:alittleoldladywaitingforthebustoSunday-morningservices.Butthis63b cMichelleLingisn’tjustanyAmericantown,andMarjorieisn’tgoingtochurch.TheTenCommandmentsprintedonherT-shirt,revealedaftershetakesoffhersweater,aretheTenCommandmentsofBingo.Oneofthemreads,“Thoushallnotshout‘Aw,Shit!’whenthyneighborwins.”ThisSundaymorning,Marjorieisgoingwhereshegoesaboutfourtimesaweek:tothecasino.■ ■ ■Askthemanywhere,fromtheupscaleMediterranean-stylehousesoftheSunCityretirementhavens,throughthemobilehomesonLambBoule-vardandthemanyseniors-onlycondosandapartments,tothelow-incomehousingprojects.AskoldpeoplewhytheymovedtoLasVegas,andyougetthesameanswers.Theyliketheweather.Thecostoflivingislowerthanitwaswheretheylivedbefore—especiallyiftheycame(asmanyhave)fromsouthernCalifornia—whetherthey’retalkingaboutthemort-gageintheirnewretirementcommunityortherentontheirmobilehome.(Infact,thecompositecostoflivingindexforLasVegas,thoughlowerthanthatofmostsouthernCaliforniacities,ishigherthanthatofAlbuquerque,Denver,Phoenix,orTucson.)AndNevadahasnoincomeorinheritancetax,theywilltellyou.(ButitssalestaxesandpropertytaxesarecomparabletothoseinCalifornia,andhigherthanthoseinmostotherWesternstates.)Manyoldpeoplesaytheymovedherefromotherretire-mentmagnetsbecausetheclean,dryairiskindtotheirarthritisoremphysema.Somepurposelyavoidtheseniors-onlycommunities;others,withoutfamilyorcommunityties,seekthemout.GertrudeCoco,inSunCity/Summerlin;PrimroseSommerville,inhermobilehomeonLambBoulevard;andThelmaVanamaninacountyhousingprojectreservedforseniorsallsaytheyliketheirnewhomesforthesamereason:theyarecleanandquiet,andtherearenokidsrunningaround.■ ■ ■ButtheparadoxcreatedbyLasVegas’sastonishinggrowthbecomesmorefrustratingeveryyear.AsmorepeoplemovetoLasVegas(morethan70,000in1998,one-sixthofthemoversixty-five),thereasonstoretiretheredisappear.Theawesometraffic,whichremindsthemofL.A.,isthefirstthingolderLasVegansmention,withpollutionandthecrimeratenotfarbehind.“Wecametoescapethetrafficandpollutionandcrime—64b cBingo!anditfollowedusouthere!”exclaimsEmmaKovitz,77,whoretiredwithherhusbandRayfirsttoOrangeCounty,California,thentoSunCity/Summerlinwhen“itgotsobad.”“Thehouseswerecheapinthebeginning,”saysRuthClosky,81,whoboughtthe77thhomeinSunCity/Summerlin(hometomorethanthir-teenthousandseniorsin1998)sevenyearsago.“Now,Idon’tthinkwecouldevenaffordtogetahomehere.”Theabsenceofstateincomeandinheritancetaxesisstillregardedasaplus.Butmanyseniorsgrumblethatasthecity’sneedformoreschools,roads,andpolicebecomeschronic,ClarkCountyisaskingthemtohelppaythecostsofLasVegas’sgrowingpains,throughbondmeasuresthatadduptobillionsofdollars.■ ■ ■Forallthecomplaints,LasVegasstillhasoneadvantageoverFortLaud-erdale,PalmDesert,orPhoenix:thisis,afterall,ascivicboostersstillremindus,the“EntertainmentCapitaloftheWorld.”Formanyseniors,“entertainment”meansthemorethantwodozengolfcourses(especiallyforthosewell-offenoughtolivenearone),orwatersportsonLakeMead,orhikingonMountCharleston.Someretireesmentioncommunityandcollegetheateranddanceproductions,thecounty’slibraries,orUNLVbasketball.Butmanyoldpeoplelackthewealthorthehealthortheinclinationtoindulgeinthesethings.“I’veworkedmywholelife,whydoIwanttodomoregardening?”“Hiking!I’mtoooldforthat.”“No,there’snoballetortheater,butevenwhenIlivedinNewYorkIdidn’tgoseethosethings.”“MyhusbandandIusedtohaveaboat,butafterhedied,Isoldit.”“Weusedtobowlalot,butmyarthritisissobad,Ican’tdothatanymore.”Asurprisingnumberofolderpeoplewholivenexttogolfcoursesdon’tgolf,anddon’tintendto.TheexecutivedirectoroftheSunCity/MacDonaldRanchdevelopmentsouthoftownwaspuzzledwhen,in1996,only21percentofasamplingofnewresidentsprofessedanyinterestinusingthegreenfairwaystheirhomesallsurround.Sowhatisitthatdrawsoldpeopletothisdesertcity,outoftheplaceswheretheyhaveoftenlivedalltheirlives,awayfromtheirfamilyandfriends?Whatdotheymeanwhentheytalkabout“entertainment”?TheonesourceofentertainmentthatalltheoldpeopleItalkedtoinLasVegasmentioned,withoutexception,istheonethatdistinguishesthiscityfromanyotherretirementhaveninAmerica.Itisalsotheoneindus-65b cMichelleLingtryinLasVegasthathasdonemorethananyothertoreachoutandcatertoseniors:casinogambling.■ ■ ■InasurveyofClarkCountyresidentsconductedfortheLasVegasCon-ventionandVisitorsAuthorityin1995-96,72percentofallLasVegasadultsquestionedadmittedtogamblingatleast“occasionally”;34percentsaidtheygambledatleasttwiceaweek,spendingfortytosixtydollarseachtime.Thefrequencyofgamblingrosemarkedlyforolderrespon-dentswithnochildrenathome,whotendedtogamble(primarilyonquarterslotsandvideo-pokermachines)offtheStrip,inneighborhoodstores,bars,andcasinos.TheydislikedthetouristtrafficontheStrip,theytoldinterviewers,andfoundFremontStreetdirtyandunsafe.Mostoftheseoldergamblershadnevertakenachanceonmorethantheoccasionalsmall-stakeschurchbingogameorstatelotteryticketbeforetheyarrivedinLasVegas.Thegamblingindustryiswellawarethatover-sixty-fivesinClarkCounty—whonumberedalmost150,000in1996—arenotonlyaburgeoningpartofthecounty’spopulation;theyarealsothemostregularandcommittedgamblersofallLasVegasresidents.Thereasonissimple,saysWhittierCollegelawprofessorI.NelsonRose,whohasbeenstudyingthenationalincreaseingambling.“Forthefirsttime,there’salargepercentageofthepopulationthatdoesn’thavetoworryabouthowit’sgoingtopayforfood,shelter,andclothing.”Retireesasawholehavethetwomostimportantthingsneededforgambling,hesays:moneyandtime.■ ■ ■Gamblingisnot,ofcourse,theonlythingtodoinLasVegas.Butwithfreedoor-to-doorcasinobuses,cheapbuffets,andthemyriadofotherpromo-tionsofferedtoresidentseniors,itiscertainlyoneoftheeasiest.“There’snoartfilmshere,onlyHollywoodtrash.InSanFrancisco,NewYork,L.A.,youcanseeanything,”complainsFredHill,81,who(likemanyotherseniors)sayshedoesn’tgamblemuch.“Thefirstthingpro-motedhere,it’sthebuffets,it’sthecasinodeals.Theydon’twantyoutogotothemovies;theywantyoutogotocasinos.”ElaineKiely,73,playsslotsandbingo,mainlyatArizonaCharlie’s,fourtimesaweek,anddoesn’thaveanyillusionsaboutwinningitbig.“Every66b cBingo!nowandthen,they’dgivemeacoupleofbucks,andthenIbringitrightbackto’em.”Andhowoftendoesshelose?“Toooften,”shechuckles.AlthoughKielysaysshe’s“agambler,”manyotherslikehersimplycon-sideragamblingvisiteveryotherdaythenormforpeopleoftheirgenera-tion.Indeed,mostofthehundredorsoseniorsItalkedtooverseveraldaysatArizonaCharlie’sandBoulderStationsaidtheycamethreetofivetimesaweek.“I’mnotagambler,”saysLillian,73,whilewaitingforthenextbingosessiontostart.Sheplaysbingo,andyes,okay,sometimestheslots,threeorfourtimesaweek.Butshestickstoalosslimitoftwentytofiftydollarspervisit.Formanyseniors,andforLasVegansingeneral,theitchtogambleistickledbytheubiquitousopportunitiestodoso.Sometimesthereseemtobeslotandvideo-pokermachinesineverybar,restaurant,grocerystore,andlaundromatinthecity.EmmaKovitzsaysthatalthoughshedoesn’tgotothecasinosmuch,“Whenyougodowntheretothemarket,ifyouhavequartersinyourpocket—they’regone.It’scrazy.”TheseniorsItalkedtoatthetwoneighborhoodcasinosallseemedawareofthelimitsoftheirfixedincomes,andinsistedthattheykeeptheirgamblingexpendituresundercontrol.Althoughmanytoldstoriesoffriendsorpeoplethey’dheardaboutwhoblewtheirretirementmoneygambling,nooneImetatArizonaCharlie’sorBoulderStationseemedtobeanaddictivegambler.Butperhapsthisdependsonthedefinitionof“addictive.”Twentytofiftydollars,changedintoquartersandshovedintotheslotsthreetofivetimesaweek,caneatabigpieceoutofaSocialSecu-ritycheck.■ ■ ■Afewdowntowncasinos,likeBinion’sHorseshoe,offeroccasionalshut-tle-busservice.Butneighborhoodcasinosaretheonesthathaveconcen-tratedonlocals—and,tojudgefromtheridersImet,onlocalsoversixty-five.Almostallthecasino-hotelsthatofferbingoprovidefreebusservice.ArizonaCharlie’s,aWestLasVegasneighborhoodcasino-hotelbuiltonthesiteofanoldbowlingalleyandacrossfromashoppingmall,istheleaderinfreeshuttleservice,whichithasofferedeversinceitopenedin1987.WhileotheroutlyingneighborhoodcasinossuchasBoulderSta-tion,TexasStation,andSam’sTownsendshuttlestoaboutadozenloca-tionsonceaweek,ArizonaCharlie’ssendsitsfleetofair-conditionedvansandlargebuses,allwheelchair-andwalker-accessible,tofiftyorsixtyseniorapartmentcomplexes,retirementhomes,mobile-homeparks,and67b cMichelleLingseniorcentersthroughoutClarkCountyfrom8amto11pmsevendaysaweek,pickingupabout8,000customerseachmonth.Ifthebusdoesn’tcometoyourhouse,saysBrentJonesatArizonaCharlie’stransportationdepartment,youcancallandrequestone.“Ifyoucangetacoupleotherpeople,andcancommittousingtheshuttle,like,onceortwiceaweek,wecanprobablysetitup.”PamhasbeendrivinganArizonaCharlie’sbusforfouryears.Shetalksaboutherclients,andformerclients,asthoughtheywerefamily.“TherewasCandyBerry.ShelivedatFleming.TheycalledherCandybecauseshewasalwaysgivingpeoplecandy—andshewassosweet,too!Shecameineveryday,andeverybodyknewher.Itwasdifficultunderstandingher,butshewasadoll.”Didshehaveanaccent?“No,shejustdidn’thaveanyteeth.”Theclientsaren’tallnice.“Therewasthismeanoldbroad.Heavenfor-bidanyoneshouldgetoffthebusbeforeher.She’dhit‘emwithhercane!”Pamlovesherjob,shesays,butithasitsdownside.“Thedepressingpartofthisjobiswhenpeoplejustdon’tshowupanymore,y’know?”Mostofthetime,shehearsaboutwhathappenedtothemlater.“Oneladyburnedfortypercentofherbody,when,well,youknow,somepeoplejustdon’thavecommonsense.Shewassmokingwithheroxygentankon!”Thewomandiedlastweek.■ ■ ■ValleyViewVillage,ACarefreeLivingCenter,isourfirststop.Threefolksincasualslacksandcomfortableshoesarewaitinginfrontofthepas-tel-andcoral-coloredmainbuilding.Pamopensthedoorandstepsout.“You’relate!”anoldmangreetshercheerily.“I’mnotlate—you’reearly,”shesays,grinning.“Oh,Iknow,”hesays.“I’mjustseeingifyou’repayingattention.”Pamgiveseachpersonavoucher,araffleticket,andahandupthestepsastheyboard.Riderscashthreevouchersinforafreebuffet;theraffleticketisachanceforafreedinneratthecasino’sYukonGrille,oranAri-zonaCharlie’sjacket.“Hi,sweetie!”shesaystoatiny,white-hairedwoman,handingheraraffleticket.“IfIdon’twinthatcoatthisyear,Igottagosouthforwinter!”sheexclaimsinreply.ThenextstopisClarkTowersandClarkTerrace.68b cBingo!“Youlookkindaspiffythere,kid,”Pamsaystoawomanasshestepsup.“IwashedmyhairtodaysoI’dlookbeautiful!”thewomanbeams.“Edna!Howareyou?”“How-dee!”Ednareplies,takingaseatupfront.Thebusisfillingup,andthemoodisdecidedlyfestive.“IfanybodyseesRosie,Iwantherrecipeforwhatsheputsinhercreampies,”Pamhollersasshedrives.“Shesaidshepromisedyou,”Ednaremembers.“Theyarethebest.”EveryoneonthebuslovesArizonaCharlie’s.“It’sourhomeawayfromhome!”Edna’sneighborcries.“It’safamilyreunioneverydaywe’reoutthere.Exceptit’snotfamily,”Ednaadds.“Wecomehereallthetime,”anotherwomansaysproudly.“Wereallyappreciatethebusdrivers,PamandJoyce.Thesegirlsarealwayssowonder-ful.Andnotallofthemare,”shesays,mouthingthenameofanothercasino.“It’snicetohaveanarmtohangonto,”Ednaagrees.AfterpickingupanothergroupatSunriseGardens,astudiocomplexforsingleseniors,PamheadsbacktoCharlie’s.Thebusscheduleiscare-fullyplannedsothatridersarriveintimeforthenextbingosession,andperhapsspendalittletimeontheslotswhiletheywait.Thebususuallyreturnsfourhours(twobingosessionsandabuffet)later.AtverypopularlocationslikeSunCity/Summerlin,thebuswillmakeanotherroundtripintheafternoon.SomebusesgotoSunCitythree,four,orevenfivetimesaday.“Comeon,wegottahustle!”shoutsamanintheback.Pamlaughs.“I’mgoing,I’mgoing!”Shelooksatmethroughherlongrearviewmirror.“Hesaysthateverytime.”Despitealltheworrying,thebusarrivesinplentyoftimeforthe1PMbingosession.“I’veneverbeensolatethattheymissedone.ButIdon’tknowwhatwouldhappenifIdid!”Pamlaughs.“They’resointoit.Theygottheirluckydaubers,andthey’llkillyouovertheirluckybingoseat.”■ ■ ■SomebingohallsinLasVegaslooklikeconvertedballrooms,withchan-deliershighabovelongrowsofconventiontablesandvinylupholsteredchairs.Butsuchaccoutrementsareextraneous,quiteincidentaltowhatreallymattersinbingo.“Idon’tneedanyofthat,”agrayingbingoprosaystome,wavingherarmdisdainfullyaroundtheroom.“Justshowmethenumbers!Andthen,”shesayswithagrin,“showmethejackpot!”69b cMichelleLingArizonaCharlie’sisafavorite.It’stheonlycasinointownthatoffersnewbingogameseveryoddhour,24hoursaday.Likeblackjackorpoker(oranyothercasinogamethatcanalsobeplayedelsewhere),casinobingoinLasVegastendstobemorecomplicatedthanthedomesticvariety,withspecificproceduresandcodesofetiquettethatarenotexplaineduntilthey’rebreached.Thebasicconcept,knowntomillionsofAmericansthroughchurchhallsorAmericanLegionfundraisers,issimple.Fiveletters(B,I,N,G,O)arecalledoutincombinationwithnumbersfromonetoseventy-five.Youcoverthenumberedspacesonyourcardasthey’recalledout,untilsomeonecompletesafive-spacerowandyells,“Bingo!”InLasVegascasinos,however,youareofferedamultitudeofvaria-tions:progressives,bonuspacks,specialcardpatternswithnameslike“CrazyT,L,andU,”“Hardway,”“Triangle,”andthehigh-stakes“Cover-all,”inwhichtheplayermustfillalltwenty-fivespaces.Gamesareplayedinone-hoursessions.Beforeeachsession,everyonebuysapackoffourtosixsheets,eachwithfourtosixcardsonit;playershavetodealwithallcardssimultaneously.Mostseasonedplayersbuyatleastafewpacks,whichtheyplayatthesametime(eyesdartingfromonecardtoanother)inordertodoubleortripletheirchances.BingopayoutsinLasVegashavecomealongwayfromthecharitypotatchurch,andarealsomorecomplex.Somehallsoffer“bonus”or“bonanza”cardsthatmustbeplayedseparately,sometimeswithnumbersonlyprintedonthem,whichcanpayoutasmuchas$50,000.Onemantoldmeaboutamillion-dollarbingojackpotpaidoutatanIndianreser-vationgame.“Andthatwasallatonce—notovertwentyyearslikeinthelottery,”hesaid.(Gamblers’loreisfullofsuchlegends,mostofthemimpossibletoverify.)Manyhallswillpayhigherstakesforabingocalledoutwithin,say,eighteennumbersofthestart.Potsmaygrowprogressivelylargerifnoonegetsbingowithinacertainnumberofcalls,andconsolationprizesgotothosewhocallbingoonthenextnumberafterthefirstbingoiscalled.BingoislegalineveryU.S.stateexceptUtahandHawaii(whichpermitnoformofgamblingwhatever),butLasVegasisoneofthefewplacesinthecountry,alongwithsomeIndianreservations,withnolegallimitsonanykindofwageringorjackpots.Itisprobablyalsotheonlyplacethatoffersfreedoor-to-doorservicetoandfrombingogames.Lillianisasweet-lookingladywhosesmilingeyesbelieasurprisinglysharptongue,developedovertwenty-fiveyearsofcocktailwaitressinginLasVegasshowrooms.Havinglivedheresince1963,sheisanoldhandatbingo,andhasgraciouslyagreedtoserveasmymentor.70b cBingo!AnyVegasbingohallworthitsballsisequippedwithenormousnum-berboardsthatlightupeachnumberasit’scalled,aswellasmonitorshangingfromtheceilingwithclose-upviewsofeachnumberedPing-Pongballafterithasbeensuckedoutofthehopper.ArizonaCharlie’sisabingoplayer’sbingohall,seatingfourhundred.Thelong,Formica-toppedtablesaremadespecificallyforthegame,withasmallpartitioninthemiddle,nottoohightochatoverbuthighenoughtoprovidealittleprivacyandaidconcentration.Thefirstthingaplayerhastodoisstakeoutaluckyseat.Asinmostofthebiggerhalls,Charlie’spostsyellowhalfsheetsonwhichplayerscircleallthesessionstheyintendtoplay,thensigntheirnamestoreservetheirplaces.Manysheetshavebeendecoratedwithinkdaubstonametheplacespermanently,likethebronzeplaquesaffixedtochurchpewsinhonorofbenefactors.ThemostseriousplayersatArizonaCharlie’shavecreatedworksofgenuinefolkartoutofdauberinkongoldenrodXeroxpaper.Diana’sisamoonlitnightscenewithaneerieweepingwillowunderthestarsandawitchflyingoverhead.Barthasdrawnacheerfulspringdaywithacatsittingundertreesandblueskies.Paul’sandRubie’scardshavebeendecoratedwithblueandpinkdauberinkwitheverysessiontimecircled,andthenlami-natedinrigidplasticforposterity.Lillianhasapermanentseatmarkeraswell,decoratedintypicalpinkandbluedauberpolkadots.“Here,”shesays,pullingaseatmarkeroutofherbingobag.“Justfillitoutregularfornow.We’vegottogetinlinebeforeitgetstoolong.”Iscribbleinmynameandfollowhertothecashier’scagewherethecardsaresold.Thereseemtobefourpricesforpacks;themoreyoupay,themoreyoucanwin.“Well,what’llitbe?”thecashierasksme,impa-tiently.Thelinebehindmeissnakingthroughtheroom.It’saboutfiveminutesbeforethehour.Iamataloss.Lillianfinallypushesmeaside,withareassuring“It’sokay.You’renew.”Leaningintothewindow,shetellsthewoman,“Ineedonethree-dollar,twosixes,andonenine.”Armed,wereturntoourseatstofindafewofLillian’sfriendsalreadythere.AgnesandJeanarewearingthesamecrepeplaidshortsset(Agnesinred,Jeaninblue)andexactlythesameorthopedicshoes.“Hey!”AgnesgreetsLillian.“You’relate!Wewonderedwhathappened.”“Iwasinline.Itjusttooklongertoday,”Lilliananswers,shootingalookatme.AgnesandJeanlookmeover.“Where’syourstuff?”sheasksme.Lillianexplains.“She’sneverplayedbefore.”Knowing“Ohhhhhs.”“I,Icouldn’tfigureoutwhatIwanted….”Istammer.71b cMichelleLing“Yeah,well,youcanbuymorepackswhenyou’reready.Butifyou’restartingout,youjustbettersticktoone,”Agnessays.“It’sokay,Lil,youcansharemyOrangeJuliusuntilyoucangettothesnackbar.”DaubersaretheplasticinkbottleswithflatfabrictopsthatplayersusetomarkwinningnumbersinmostVegasbingohalls.Alldaubersmustimprintaclearandunmistakabledotcoveringthenumber,butnotwithinksodarkthatitmakesthenumberillegible.Casinosdistributetheirown,sometimesfromvendingmachines,imprintedwiththecasinologo.Theycomeineverycolor,includingfluorescentsandglow-in-the-dark;someinkssparkle,andsomearemetallic.Thebottlesarethinandround,flattenedforaneasygrip,ormoldedintonoveltyshapeslikestackedballsorteddybears.Lilliancarriesallherbingoequipment,includingScotchtape,moisttowelettes,andaclipboardtoholdthecardsup,inadraw-stringbagdecoratedwithbingocardsthathasholstersallaroundtheout-sidetohousedaubers.Choosingthecolor,shape,andstyleofdaubertouseforeachgameusuallyinvolvesamixtureofstrategyandsuperstition.Ofcourse,Ihavenodauber,soLillianlendsmeagreenone.“Iusedgreenyesterday,soI’mnotgonnauseittoday,”shesays.Lillianisafuryofactivity,liningupherrainbowofdaubersandScotch-tapingpagestogetherforeasyscanning.AgnesandJeanhavesur-roundedthemselveswithbingopacks,anarrayofpastel“HorseshoeCasino”daubers,aDr.Pepper,anOrangeJulius,abottleofEvian,afoot-longhotdogapiece,popcorn,Snickersbars,andapackoflong,skinnyMorecigarettes.Thesewomenareprofessionals.Thedininthehallimmediatelyceaseswhenthecallerannouncesthestartofthesession;itisreplacedbyahushandapalpabletension.Theroomispacked,mainlywitholderfolks,mostofthemwomen,mostofthemwhite,butthesingle-mindedanticipationpermeatingtheplaceseemstotransformallclassesandracesintoahuge,multiheaded,facelessmass.ThreeHell’sAngelsinblackleathervestsandmotorcyclebootssitinonecorner,buttheydon’tstickout.Nearlyeveryonesmokes.Noonespeaks.Onebyone,theballsdancingaroundtheairhopperaresuckedout.“B-11.B-11,”dronesthecallerupfront.“Chickenlegs!”someoneshouts.Gig-glesandgroansripplethroughtheranks.AgneswhispersthatsomepeoplealsoblowawhistleatI-22orO-69.“Ifyoucomealot,though,it’sannoying,”shesays.“B-34.B-34.”Everyonehunts,theluckyonesdaub;everyonewaitsforthefatefulshout.72b cBingo!Finally,itcomes.“Bingo!”wehearacrosstheroom.Arumbleofcom-mentsrisesupfromthemass,andheadsbegintopeeruptoseewhoitis.Theattendantsgooverandcheckthenumbers,callingouteachone.“B-52?B-52.I-31?I-31.N-29?N-29.G-15?G—uh,Idon’t…”Thedinrisessuddenly—thewomanwasmistaken!Redemptionforeveryone!Thecallerconcedesthatthereis,indeed,nobingo.“Rookie!”isshoutedfromvariouspartsoftheroom.“See?”Lillianpokesme.“Youbet-terbecareful.”Soonafterward,however,someoneelsecallsbingoandgetsit.Therumbleturnstoagrumbleaspeopletearoffthetopsheetandgetreadyforthenextgame.Thecompetitiveinstinctrunssohighthatit’seasytoseewhysomehallsgiveaway“goodneighbor”prizesforthepeopleimmedi-atelytotheleftandrightofthewinner.■ ■ ■Anyonewhohascaughtbingofeverbutdoesn’thavetherightgearcangotoBingoNoveltyWorld,onIndustrialRoad,whichhaseverythingbingoimaginable.Bingototebagsineverysizeandcolor,bingoseatcushions,neckfansforcomfort,bingo-ballkeychains,bingosoftware,bingocardpendantsandearrings,bingosportsbottles,bingoclocks,bingoashtrayswithdauber-shapedlighters,bingodauberswithtroll-headtops,andthe“LorenaBobbit”penis-shapedgiftpack.ThereisanarrayofT-shirtswithbingoprayers(“NowIlaymedowntoslumber,Ipraythattheywillcallmynumber….”),andsloganslike“KeepGrandmaOfftheStreets,TakehertoBingo!”InLasVegas,America’sfavoriteretirementdestination,everykindofpublicandcommercialservicefortheelderlyisavailable:clinics,clubs,seniorcenters,seniordiscounts,specialtours,freecollegecourses;subdivi-sions,apartments,andtrailerparksreservedjustforthem;specialexerciseclasses,golfcartsandgolfcourses,medical-supplystoresandpharmaciesopen24hourseveryday,mealsonwheelsandhomevisitors;morethanseventyhome-healthservices;morethaneightylicensednursinghomes.Butthemostvaluableseniorserviceofallmaybethoselittlecards,eachgriddedintotwenty-fivesquaresandimprintedwithsomeone’sluckynumbers.Everyday,thousandsofelderlyLasVegasflockwillinglytothebingohallsofthecity’scasinos.Whateverthecost,thesegamblinghallshavebecomeforthemthemostcomfortableandcongenialsocialcentersintown.73b GrowingUpinLasVegasMarieSanchezAiryhomesgardensculpturesglass-and-tileschoolspalm-linedstreetsparksfountaincourtyardsShakespeareanactorsfamiliesalfrescodiningupscaleshopping—asenseofcom-munityprideandtraditionalfamilyvalues.ThenewGreenValleyneighborhoodoffers“asenseofcommunityprideandtraditionalfamilyvaluesalongwiththeculturalawarenessandconveniencesoftenfoundinlargercities.”Thedevelopersstriveto“makesuretheircommunitiesthrivefordecadestocome[since]manyhomebuyerswanttofeelasenseofcommunityandbelongingtotheareainwhichtheylive.”Scenesofhappyfamilylifeillustratethebrochure.Thebuilders,wearetold,havecreatedastrongsocialsettingwithsuchamenitiesasa“lushlylandscapedPaseo[which]meandersthroughthecommunity…craftandartfairsandconcertswhichareallfree…aTownCenter,athriving‘centertainment’hotspotwithrestau-rants,atheatreandshopping…andmoreintimateconcertsintheiracclaimedinteractivefountaincourtyardarea.”FamilieshavelivedintheLasVegasvalleyeversinceBrighamYoungfirsttriedtocolonizeitwithMormonfarmersin1855-57.Moldedinpartbytheapparentrushandabandonofthecity’sdominantindustry,inpartbytheenduringvaluesoftheOldWest,andinpartbythelingering75b cMarieSanchezinfluenceofitsfamily-orientedMormonfounders,whatisthecontem-poraryLasVegasfamilylike?HowarethechildrenofLasVegasgrow-inguptoday?■ ■ ■In1997,Nevadarankedsecondinthenationinteenpregnanciespercapita.ClarkCounty(GreaterLasVegas)accountedformostofthose.Lately,programstoreducethisrateamongthirteen-toseventeen-year-oldshaveshownsomesuccess;therateisdippingamongthemorethanfiftythousandteensinthecounty.Butnowthenumberofteenabortionsissoaring.SchoolbusesforsomehighschoolsinClarkCountycomeequippedwithbabyseats.In1996,thenationalCenterforDiseaseControlandPreventionreportedthatLasVegasteenagersledthenationindruguseandviolence.TheLasVegasMetroPoliceDepartmenthasidentified150gangswithinthecitylimits,gangsthathaveorganizedthedrugtradewithfirepowerandviolence.“Thereisn’tasingleneighborhoodwithoutagang,”saidonepolicespokesman.InamoveuniqueintheUnitedStates,Nevadahasmadeclasssessionsinsuicidepreventionarequirementforhigh-schoolgraduation.Whathasgonewrong?TalkingwithLasVegasteensthemselvesprovidessomeclues.Whethertheyoungpeopleyoutalktoprofesstolovethecityorloatheit,afewper-sistentthemescutacrosssocial,economic,andraciallines.■ ■ ■Blacksilkyhairbrushingslenderhipslonglegssparklingalmondeyesoliveskinplummouth—Iwoulddoanything.“Iwoulddoanything,”saysAnabelGranados,17,whomighthavebeenthemodelforDisney’sPocahontas.“Sing,dance,orplayviolin.ButIpreferSelena’smusic.”WearewatchingvideosofsomeofAnabel’sonstageperformances,organizedtoshowcaseherversatility.Inthefirst,she’sdressedinthereduniformofaMatachineIndian,playingtheviolinatCaesarsPalacewhilefiftymembersoftheApachetribesur-roundherchanting,dancing,andplayingancientandmodernmusicalinstruments.76b cGrowingUpinLasVegasInthenextvideoshe’swearingthesnug-fitting,braid-trimmedblackuniformofMariachiMiTierrawhiletheseven-membergroupserenadesanaudienceatNellisAirForceBase.AnothershowsAnabelduringaCatholicritualbeforethehighgildedaltarinSt.Christopher’sChurch,whichservespartofLasVegas’slargeSpanish-speakingcommunity.Inthelastone,athersisterMarlyn’squinceañero(fifteenthbirthdaycelebra-tion),Anabelwearsanupsweptcoif,heavymakeup,andfloor-lengthbluevelvet-and-chiffonwhileshesings“WindBeneathmyWings”—Marlyn’sfavoritesong—toahushedcrowdofmorethanfivehundred.AnabelandhersisterMarlyn,15,curlupintwooverstuffedroyal-bluechairsinanuncluttered,white-walled,white-tiledlivingroom.Anabeliswearingcutoffsandared-floweredblousethatstopsjustabovehernarrowwaist;shefoldsherslenderlegsontothecushion.AlifelongLasVegasres-identwhowantstostayinthecityandperforminhotelshowrooms,sheclaimsthatonlyarecordingcontractfromLosAngelescoulduproother.Anabelbringsoutherperformancecostumesandspreadsthemonthebluesofa.Sheandhermothersewthemaftersheandhersisterdesignthem.TheMatachinecostumes,oneredandonebeige,areornatelyfringed,sequined,beadedandheavy.Anabelspentafullyearworkingontheredone,reservedforspecialreligiousceremonies.Othercostumes—medium-shortswirlyskirtsandconservativehaltertops—comeinsilverandblack,accentedbybowtiesandcummerbundsinblack,red,andwhite.Coordi-natedhotpantscompletetheensembles.“IwantpeopletopayattentiontowhatIdo,nothowIlook.AllI’vewanted,eversinceIcanremember,istoperform—andforotherpeopletoenjoyitalmostasmuchasIdo.”Atthemoment,whenAnabelperformsintheoccasionalshow,shemakes$25anhour,awagefewothercitiescanoffertoseventeen-year-olds.LasVegas’s9-PMweekdaycurfew(whichbansteensunaccompa-niedbyadultsfromtheStripandDowntown)doesn’taffecther:she’sanentertainer,inacitythatstilllikestocallitselftheEntertainmentCapitaloftheWorld.Inpublic,Anabelcarriesherselfwiththebearingandconfidenceofaqueen.Herfavoritepastime—notexactlytypicalamongAmericanteenagers—iswatchingthebigshowsintheStriphotels:SiegfriedandRoyattheMirage,EFXattheMGMGrand,CirqueduSoleilatTreasureIsland.“Icouldneverseethingslikethatanywhereelse.AndtheyletmeintotheHispanicclubs,butnotintotheothers.I’mnotoldenough.Still,everycasinoIknowhasatleastonebarorloungeIcangoto.”Shealsolovestodance.ShedancestotropicalmusicattheGoldCoast,MexicanmusicatCamilo’sBallroom,theSinaloenseandElReyClubs,sometimestillfourorfiveinthemorning,thoughnoteveryweekend.77b cMarieSanchezAftersomereluctance,almosteveryoneinAnabel’sfamily,includingherparents,hascometosupportherdreamsofbecomingabig-timeper-former.“Ithinkthisismychance,”shesaysbreathlessly.“Whenyougetachance,that’sit.Eitherthingshappenortheydon’t.Youdon’tusuallygetasecondchance.Youhavetobeprepared.”Hervoicedropsoff,asifsheisafraidofjinxinghergoodluck.Eventhemoderatemeasureofsuccessshehaswonsofarhaschangedherpersonallife.“Somefriendsaren’tfriendsanymore.Andguyslookatyoudifferently.NowwhenIgoout,Iwonderwhythey’reseeingme.Butyouhavetobewillingtogothroughallthat,andwantitbadlyenough.Andbepreparedfortheupsanddowns.”Anabelhasrunintoanotherprobleminherchosenfield:“Thehardpartofthemusicbusinessisthere’slotsofdrugsinvolved.Itattractsalotofpeoplefromoutoftownwhoarelookingforachange.Whenthingsdon’tgorightforthem,there’salone-linessthing.Theyhavemoneyandtheygettempted….There’scocaine,Ecstasy,andalotofraveparties.Atschoolit’ssoeasytogetit.”And,ofcourse,there’stheLasVegassexindustry.“Collegegirlsstripfortuition,”shesays.“SometimesIwonderhowbadthingswouldhavetogetbeforeIdidsomethinglikethat.Thereareplaceswhereyoustripdowntoabathingsuit.Iwouldlookintothatifthingsgotreallybad.”Anabeldismissesthetypicaloutsider’sviewoflifeinLasVegas.“Every-oneassumesthatyouwalkaroundthecasinosallthetime,andthatthere’salwaysthistemptation.TheyassumethatIgototheStripeveryday.”AlthoughhercinderblockrowhouseisonlyatumbleweedrollawayfromSam’sTown,abigneighborhoodcasinoonBoulderHighway,shebelievesshecaninsulateherselffromthecasinosandtheproblemsassociatedwiththem.“There’sthecasinosandthere’stheothersideofLasVegas,withrealproblemsjustlikeothertowns.”Butsheisconcernedabouttheeffectsofgamblingonthecity’syoungerresidents.“Ilivefarfromthe[Strip]casinos,buttheystillinfluenceusalot.Thingsaremoreliberalhere,andthatleadstogrowingupabitfaster.We’reexposedtomorethingsthanalotoftownsare.Andit’seasierheretobebadthantobegood.”GrowingupinNorthLasVegas,wheremostnewLatinofamiliesstartout,Anabelsawfirsthandthe“realproblems”ofLasVegas—“drive-byseverynight,drugbustseverynight.”But“itdidn’taffectmethatmuch,”sheinsists.“Thenwemovedtoabetterpartoftown.”“Nowatschoolthere’slotsofviolenceandalotofracialconflicts.Iwouldthinkthatwouldbegonebynow—byhighschoolyou’resupposedtobeatamorematurelevel.LastyearitwasMexicanAmericansagainstAfricanAmericans.Thenitgotalloutofhand,notjustgangs,butdrugs,sex,thingsingeneral.AndChaparralisaniceschool.”78b cGrowingUpinLasVegasAnother“realproblem,”Anabelsays,isteenpregnancy,whichisram-pantamongherfriends.“Mostofmyfriendshavechildren.Onehadtwochildrenbyagefifteen,anotherhadoneatagesixteen,andanotherhadoneatseventeen.Theydecidedtheywerematureenoughtohavesex,butdidn’tthinkabouttheconsequences.“Ourschoolsdon’tteachusaboutsex.Wedon’thavecondomsinschools.IfIhadn’treadabook,Iwouldn’tknowcertainthingscouldhap-pentoyou.”StrongMormonandfundamentalistChristianinfluenceshavehelpedtokeepsexeducationoutofpublicschoolsinClarkCounty.ManyofAnabel’sfriendslivewiththefatheroftheirchildreninthehouseofoneparentoranother,threegenerationsunderoneroof.Whateverherpeersdo,lifeforAnabel’swillprobablycontinuetobedifferentfromthatofherfamilyandfriends.“IdecidedthatifIdidn’tgetmarriedateighteen,Iwouldn’tdoituntilmycareereithertookoff—oritdidn’t.”■ ■ ■AdvancedSpanishclass,ChapparalHigh.Someofthestudents(mostofthemHispanic)havedistantlooks,noddingheads;othershaveglazedeyes;afewkeeptheirheadsontheirdeskstheentireclass.Aboutaquarterofthemarevisiblyondrugs,butthehomeroomteachertellsmeshehasbeenadvisednottomentionthis.Attheteacher’srequest,Italktothestudentsaboutcareersinjournal-ism.Afterafewpolitequestionsfromtwostudents,IasktheclasstotellmewhatIshouldknowaboutgrowingupinLasVegas.Theenergylevelclimbs,althoughonlyafewstudentsparticipate.Gradually,theystarttalkingaboutpregnancies,gangs,drugs,suicides.Thenmorestudentsjoinin:Thereisnothingtodo.We’rediscrimi-natedagainst.Suddenlymanyofthemaretalkingatonce.Iliveforthedances.AgirlIknewkilledherself,shewaseighteen,pregnant,herboyfriendlefther.Icanworkinacasino,whyshouldIcareaboutschool?Anabelwarnedmethatmanykidsdon’tvalueeducation.“Don’ttakeitpersonallyifyoudon’tgetanywherewiththem,”shesaid.“Trytogetthemtoanswerquestions.”NowwesitonawoodenbenchunderanemeraldpinethatfiltersoutthehazyMarchsunintheschool’scentralcourtyard,nexttoastatueofacowboymountedonabuckingbronco.Anabelisdressedingrayslacksandafittedblackjacket,bothofwhichmatchthedarkcirclesunderhereyesasshetellsmeaboutherschedule.“There’ssomuchpressurerightnow.Thingsarehappeningwaytoofast.”79b cMarieSanchezSheplanstoplayandsingherwaythroughtheUniversityofNevadaatLasVegas,thankstoaviolinscholarshipfromtheUniversityandagrantfromtheHispanicChamberofCommerce.“I’mstillfillingoutscholar-shipapplications.Thethoughtofcollegeissoscary.”Sheletsoutatrem-blingbreath.“Butit’sreallygoingtohappen.I’malsotryingtobeamanageratMcDonald’sandIhaven’tevenstartedtoreadthemanual.Ihavetogetpicturesinmakeupandcostumesthisweek,andcutademon-strationCDwiththreesongsnextmonth.There’llbesomuchrehearsing.Thentherearenewspaperinterviewsandstuff.Everythingtheywrite,Ihavetoliveupto.”Hershoulderssagundertheburden.ChirpingbirdspiercethesoundofAnabel’sagitatedvoiceasshedescribeshowshe’smanagingthisstageinherlife.“EitherIsingorgotoyouthgroupatchurch.OritbuildsupuntilIhaveanervousbreakdown.ThenIcryalotandthenitgoesaway.Ihaven’tbeentoyouthgroupforthreeweeks.”Fromaloudspeaker,afoghornsoundsummonsherbackinsideforclass.It’schoirpractice,thelastperiodbeforespringbreak.Fifty-plusstudentsformacrescentacrossalowstage,andastudentconductorbeginstherehearsal.TheirvoicessendLatin,German,andEnglishphrasesintothewarm,stuffyair.Mostofthekidsconcentrate,bodiesstiff,handsclenchedattheirsides.Chinsandlipsprojectlikesongbirds’beaks;eyebrowsarestitchedinconcentration.Afewinthebacklaughquietlyortalk,elbowingeachother.Anabelstandsnearthecenter,raptandfocused.Thechoir,whichreceiveshighmarksatfestivals,soundsverygood.Thefoghornblaresagain.Smallgroupsofstudentsamassanddisperse.Anabelsaysgoodbyeandrushesofftoherjob.Afewminuteslater,atthetiny,original-styleMcDonald’sonEasternandTropicana(oneofthirty-eightinLasVegas),Anabelistakingorders.ShehandsmeaCokeandinvitesmeinsideforabehind-the-countertourofherworkplace.Shereviewstheday’ssalesonapersonalcomputer,checkssupplies,andgoesbacktotakingorders.Withfluid,efficientmovementssherotatesfromregistertofriestoburgerstosoftdrinks.She’sdressedinanunglamorousnavy-bluepoloshirtandslacks,herebonymaneinatopknotthatpokesthroughthenavycapemblazoned“McDonald’s.”AnabelishardlytypicalofLasVegasyouth.Shedoesn’tdrink,smoke,swear,ordodrugs.“Idon’tdrinkbecauseithassuchhorribleconse-quences.Myunclekilledsomeonebecausehewasdrivingdrunk.Hurthimself,too.Mymomsmokesanditaffectedmyimmunesystem.Igetsickeasilyaroundsmoke—Igetsnifflesandfeelweird.”80b cGrowingUpinLasVegasTheCatholicChurchandtwostrictparentshavegivenAnabelstronganddeeproots.Therewasnodating,nomakeup,nohighheelsuntilsheturnedfifteen.WhileIvisited,Anabel’smotherwasinMexicocaringforherownsickmother.Whenshedecidedtolengthenherstay,AnabelandMarlynhadtokeepthehouserunningbackinLasVegas.Inspiteoftherespiteprovidedbyspringbreak,Anabelhadlittletimeforherself.Shecanceledherphotoshoot,ayouth-groupmeeting,thepre-miereoftheSelenamovie,aweekenddance,andatripwithafriendtoaCaliforniabeachinordertostayhomeandwashdishes,dolaundry,mopthefloors,andcookforherfather,achefatRicardo’sMexicanrestau-rantonEastTropicana.Shecouldn’tmeetwithmeonSunday,shesaid,because“Sundayisfamilyday.”Inspiteofeverythingshe’sseen,LasVegasisstillAnabel’stown.“It’sweirdinothertowns.YougooutattwoAMandit’sempty,orpeoplearedoingthingstheyshouldn’tbedoing.HeretheStripissobeautiful.”■ ■ ■VolmarFranz,whocametoLasVegasin1983,worksasafamilythera-pist.Hetriestoshedsomelightonmystoryofaseventeen-year-oldgirlfromaMexicanCatholicfamilywhoperformsincasinohotels.“You’vegotastrangemixinLasVegas.There’saMormoninfluenceinthetownthatisveryheavy.BeyondtheMormons,there’saheavy-dutyChristianinfluence.“Thenthere’stheimageofthetown:getrichquickandindulgeinfastandeasysex,everythinghere’sfreeandloose.”ThestrictethicalprinciplesofthereligiousgroupsclashwiththeSinCityappealofDowntownandtheStrip.“It’sdisorienting.It’saconstantcontradictioninterms.Ittakesalottofigureitout,andIcan’tsayaftersixteenyearsthatitmakesalotofsensetome.“Iseesomeofthatasbeinganattempttobalancewhat’sgoingonhere.Ontheonehand,thecasinoscrackdownonprostitution;ontheotherhand,we’vegotsomeofthewildeststripclubsinthecountry.Youcancomehereandloseeverything.Butdon’tgettoodrunk,orsomeonewillgotothegaming-roomfloorandyou’lldisappear.Don’tgettoobawdyaboutfindingyourselfawhore.Ifyoumaketoomuchnoiseoraretooovert,theywilltakeyouaway.Donotgetinvolvedindruguse.Possessionofanyamountisafelony—aseedofmarijuanaisafelony!Theyarenotlooseaboutdrugsatall,althoughitispervasive.Ifyougetcaught,theywillprosecuteyou.Youwillfall.”81b cMarieSanchezThesubtletiesofLasVegas’sconflictingrulesforsurvivalcanbelostonteens.Andforthosewhoaren’tasrootedasAnabel,theconflictscancre-atemajorproblems.“It’saproblemforkidstryingtofindanidentity,”saysFranz.“Itslowsdowntheirdevelopment.They’relesspreparedtogooutanddosome-thing.”TheproblemsthataffectLasVegaschildrenincludeovercrowdedschoolsthatrundailydoubleshifts;thefewestparksofanymajorU.S.city;andagenerallackofrecreationalactivities.Formanyteenagers—whocanquicklybemadetofeelunwantedanywayinthis“adults-only”town—thesecancombinetocreateasenseofbeingsuperfluousandignored,andastress-filled,unhealthy,dangerousspaceinwhichtogrowup.■ ■ ■Onthisrainy,windynightIamtryingtofollowthedirectionsIhavebeengiventomeetagroupofteensinahard-to-findcommunity,master-plannedandguard-gated,theprideandjoyofitsresidents.Iattempttofollowmyhostess’sdirections,buttheidenticalhousesinall-but-identicalsubdivisionsleavemebewildered.Roadsignsaredifficulttospot,asifres-identsdidnotwantoutsiderstofindthem.Istopatstorestoaskfordirec-tions;salesclerksstareatmewithblankfaces.Inthemiddleofthedownpour,Icallmyhostessandgetmoredetaileddirections.It’sstillnouse.Finally,shecomestopickmeupatthepayphoneIamusing.Iamforty-fiveminuteslatebythistime,andthor-oughlywet.Isitinawarm,whitelivingroomunderabeamedceilingandtrytodrymyselfout(alongwithmytaperecorder,whichhasfalleninapuddle).Sixteenssitinmodularfurnitureofpalebeigesanddeepcreams.They’vebeeneatingchips,pretzels,andnutsanddrinkingsoftdrinkswhilewait-ingforme.Theytellmehowtheygotlostthefirsttimetheyvisitedhere,too.Onegirlsaysshedrovearoundforalmostanhour.Theyrangeinagefromfifteentonineteen.Aftersomeinitialwariness,theystarttotalkabouttheirhometowns.AllbutonehavecometoLasVegasinthelasttwoorthreeyears,whentheirparentswereluredherebymoneyandjobs.Theyplantogotocollegeandbecomejournalists,businesspeople,medicalassistants,doctors.Theyareallwhite,well-to-dostudentsatDurango,oneofthecounty’s“better”highschools.(Itboaststwomoderngyms,oneofwhichseats3,500.)82percentofitsseniorsgraduate.82b cGrowingUpinLasVegasAtmyurging,thestudents’meanderingtalksoonturnstothesubjectofwhatit’sliketogrowupinLasVegas.Thesearesomeofthethingstheytoldme,aswetalkedlongintothenight.Ondrugs:“Overhalfthekidsatschoolusethem.Mainlycrystal.”“Ilostfortypoundsonthem.”“Ilovedalltheenergyitgavemeforschool,householdchores,andthenmynightjob.”“Peoplearealwaysofferingthemtome.”Onsex,prostitution,andteenpregnancy:“Thepopulargirlswearshinyleatherminiskirts,high-heeledpumps,andbighairtoschool.Theylooklikewhores.”“Ifgirlsneedcash,[prostitutionis]alwaysonthebackoftheirminds,especiallyattheendofthemonthoratChristmas.”“Myfriendsarecarelesswithsex.Theysay‘Let’sgogetdrunkorhighorsomething,’then…theyhavestupid,irresponsiblesexandgetpreg-nant…orworse.”“Myfriendmarriedanddivorcedbythetimeshegraduatedfromhighschool.”“IgetHIV-testedtogetfreecondoms.”Onviolence:“Iknowsomeonewhowasraped.”“Myfriendgothisthroatcut.Hewasaninnocentbystander.Hewastwentyandhesurvived.”“Someonetriedtokillmybrotherbyrunninghimoverwithacar.”“Myfriendgotagunpulledonhimsixmonthsago.”Onsuicide:“It’sprettyfuckingintimidatinghere.ThekidshaveMercedes,niceclothes,andallthat.”“AfootballplayerIknewcommittedsuicide.HegotallA’sandwaspopular,withaprettygirlfriend.”“Whenyousittherewithnothingtodo,nowheretogo,youfeelreallyalone—likeaspeckofsaltinaseaofsand.”Onalienation:“Peoplemoveinandout.Youloseyourfriends.”“It’shardhere,usuallybecauseyoufeelyoudon’tfitin.Thisisasmallcommunity.”“Noonetalkstoyou.Iwentuptomyneighborandsaid,‘Hello.’Heraninsidehishousewithoutaword.”83b cMarieSanchezOnfamilies,andthetwenty-four-hourlifestyle:“MyparentsaretheonlyonesIknowofwhoarestilltogether.”“Mymomworkstwojobs.”“That’swhykidsusedrugs.Wecangeteverythingdonethen:school-work,cleaningourrooms,after-schooljobs,andpartying.”Andhowdotheseaffluent,reasonablybalancedteenswhowanttoleaveLasVegasfor“someplacegreener,”oranycollegebutUNLV,handletheanything-goesatmosphereofLasVegas?“Inatwenty-four-hourtown,there’salotofthingsyoucandoimpul-sively.Youhavetogrowupsooner.”“Youhavetohardenyourselftoprotectyourself.”“Vegasattractsalotofbadpeople.Youhavetoreallybeselective.”■ ■ ■JackDiamond,amarriageandfamilytherapist,believesthatinLasVegas,the24-hourwayoflifeisprobablythesinglemostdestructiveelementforfamilies.“Shiftworkcreatesalotofproblemswithrelationships.Ifoneparentworksday,andtheothergraveyard,thenthecouplestopsdoingthingstogether.”Marriagesbreakup.One-parentfamiliesproliferate.“Manykidsdon’thavemuchsupervision,andnoextendedfamilytowatchoutforthemiftheirparentswork.”Residents,hebelieves,developaddictionsinresponsetothecity’sbountyoftemptations.DiamondprovidesasketchoffamilylifeinLasVegasbasedonhisownclientele.“Itincludesgambling,alcohol,anddrugaddictions.Andthenmarriageproblems,halfofwhichendindivorce.Forchildren,ontopofeverythingelse,itreflectsthedysfunctionalfamily’sproblems,aswellastheirown.”Theseaddictionscandestroyadults,thuscompoundingtheireffectsonteenagers.“Theyoungerthesubject’sage,thefasterthevariousaddic-tionsform.Thatmakesitmoredifficultfornormaldevelopmentalprocessestotakeover.Kidsaremorejuvenileandlesssocialized.Iftheydrinkortakedrugsbeforeagetwenty-one,thentheseactivitieskeeptheminapubertalstatelonger.Theyreactinsteadofact.Andtheirbehaviorremainsimpulsive.”GamblingisthemostcommonaddictionamongDiamond’sclients.“Theystartedgamblingbeforetheyweretwenty-one.Somestartedasteens.Butthegamblingaddictionreallymanifestsitselfinadulthood.Ittakestimetodevelop.”84b cGrowingUpinLasVegasEveniftheymanagetoavoidmosttemptations,saysDiamond,chil-drenwhogrowupinLasVegasareathigher-than-normalriskforerraticbehaviorandpersonalitydisorders.Theysee“peoplewhocomeheretoworkandgetcaughtupingamblingveryearly.Thisiswhatwedobesthereandit’sveryseductive.Adultsgamble,losemoney,thenlosetheirjobinthisright-to-firetown.Thentheirfamilygoes.That’swhatcausesalotofsuicideanddepression.Othersmovehere,andthetemptationsover-comethem.“Bygrowingupexposedtoallthis,kidsthinktheyaregrowingupfaster.They’rejustlosingtheirinnocencesooner.Thegrowingupcomeslater.Anditcomesmostoftenforthechildrenintheuppereconomicstrata,whereparentsarebettereducatedandhavethemoneytogetthehelptheirchildrenneedtoovercomewhateveraddictionordisordertheydevelop.Otherkidsmustparentthemselves.Andtheydoitpoorly.Theteensmostatriskarenearpovertylevel,especiallyifparentsarenotinvolvedintheirlives,oriftheydon’thaveorganizedathleticsorinterestsintheirlives.”AllanPulsipher,amanagementanalystwiththecounty’sFamilyandYouthServicesDivisionforjuvenileoffenders,paintsthefaceofthetownfromadifferentangle.“Nevada’salwaysbeenanoutlawstate,”hesays.“Thevastbarrendesertcannotsupportastategovernment.We’velegalizedactivitiesthatareillegalelsewheretoattractindustryandtourists.Itmakesthingsmorewideopenthanotherplaces.Itcreatesaculturewheremoreispossible.It’slivingontheedge.”Theresult,hesays,istoomanypeopleandkidsandtoofewservices.“Ourjuvenilejailsareovercrowded.Wehavemattressesonthefloorsforkidstosleepon.Ourschoolsareovercrowded.Ourstreetsarepacked.Welurchfromonecrisistoanother.”DiamondguidesmethroughotherpointsofinterestontheLasVegassociallandscape:“Wearethesecond-higheststateforbeerconsumptionpercapita.WehavemoreDUIs[“drivingundertheinfluence”arrests]thananyotherstate.Aboutfivepercentofthepeoplehereareaddictedtogambling;nationwideit’shalfashigh.TenpercentofthepeopleheregotoA.A.”Freckle-speckedporcelainskinblue-grayeyesflaming-redhairpoutyvulnerabletoughshyrebelliousatrisk.Iwasshak-ing,Iwassweating.“Iwasshakingatthetime,andIwassweating,”saysnineteen-year-oldAnne.Anneistalkingaboutthenightshedeniedtoherfostermotherthatsheusedmarijuana,whenshewasactuallystrung85b cMarieSanchezoutonspeed.“Itwasreally,reallybad—thefactthatIhadtolie,andondrugs,andbeingonadrugworsethanshecouldeverimaginethatIwasdoing.Ilovemyfosterparentsmorethananything.”Thatwasthestartofherrecovery,almosttwoyearsago.AnnehadalightedinLasVegastheyearbefore.HerdeclinebeganalmostassoonasshearrivedinSpeedCity.“MyfirstrailofspeedwasacoupleofweeksafterImovedhere.ThecrowdIwaswith,thesetwogirls,theywereintoit.MaybeIdidittobelongortodosomethingdifferent….Heredrugsaren’taproblemoftheinnercity.It’saworseprobleminthesuburbs.“Withspeed,you’resospunfor,like,sevenhours—evenmore.Andwhenyou’redown,youdoanotherline.Thedownissooohard.It’slikeyougettheflu—you’resluggishandyoudon’twanttomove.You’reupsetatpeopleandyou’reangry.“Iwoulddoalinebeforeschool.HalfwaythroughI’dgotothebath-roomanddoanotherline.I’dgohomeandsleepallday.I’dwakeupinthemiddleofthenightanddoanotherline,andthengotoschool.“Mygradeswerereallygood.IhadflunkedmyfreshmanyearathighschoolinColorado.Ihadaone-point-eightasasophomoreinOhio.ButIcamehereandwasgettingstraightA’s;thespeedkickedmeoffintothemodewhereIwantedstraightA’s.Youalwayswannabebusy,andyoudon’twanttosleeporsitdown.Youjustwanttodoeverything.Icleanedmyroomtoptobottom.I’ddustallthelittlecracksofmyroom.I’ddomyhomeworkinanhour.”Ina24-hourtown,whereenergyisabiglure,speedisfastbecomingthemostprevalentdruginhighschools.ButitssnarebegantofrightenAnne.“Ithinkspeedisthebiggestdrugthatwillchangepeopleinside.Itwillmakepeoplenotwanttodothethingsthey’vealwayswantedtodo.Istartednottocareaboutmyfamily.Peoplestartedlookingatmedifferent.Iwasclassifiedasa‘tweaker,’peoplewhodon’ttakecareofthemselves.They’renotgoodpeople.“IthoughtI’dtakecareofmyself,butfiveorsixinthemorningwouldrollaroundandI’dstillbeupandwouldjusttakeashower.I’dalwaysthoughtpersonalappearanceshowsalotaboutaperson.“OnetimeIpassedoutintheparkinglot.Ihadbeenupforacoupleofdays.I’dgodayswithouteating.ThenI’dgetreallysickandsleepthewholeday.Onedayafterbeingviolentlysick,Ijustsaid,‘Idon’twanttodothisanymore.’”Andshehasn’t,shesays,althoughsheadmitsshe’ddocokeifshehadthemoney.“Thedownsaren’tasbadwithcoke.”AnneviewsLasVegaswiththeperspectiveofanoutsider.“Realityisreallysadhere.Thistownbringsouttheworstinpeople:crime,pornogra-86b cGrowingUpinLasVegasphy,gambling,homelessnessanddesperation.It’sareallysadcity.Allthemobile-parkhomesandkidsgrowingupwithfathersandmothersthatarealcoholicsandaddictedtogambling.Iknowpeoplewhohavegrownupbasicallywithoutparents,becausethey’recompulsivegamblers,whichhasleftthemwithnothing.“Itbringsoutthegreed.Peoplewanttobehighrollers—biggerandbetter.Vegasislikeamirageforsomethingdeeperthanwhatitreallyis.Idon’tthinkVegasisreal.Therewouldn’tbesuchcrimeandpovertyinVegaswithoutthiswholeideaof‘cometoVegasandgetrichandfamous.’“There’salotofopportunityinVegas,butIdon’tthinkthere’salotofthingstodobecauseofthewholetwenty-onething.Whenkidslookaroundanddon’tfindanythingtodo,there’scrime.Mybestfriendhadagunpulledonhimsixmonthsago.Mytwelve-year-oldfosterbrotherwasstuffedintoatrashcan.Therearesomanylittlepunks.Whenkidshavenothingtodo,they’llgooutandlookfortrouble.”Becauseherfosterparentsaremovingawaysoon,Anneislookingforherownapartment.She’smaxedouthercreditcards.Atnineteen,she’saconfessedshopaholic.Recently,herparentsbroughtuptheideaoftele-phonesexbecauseitoffersalotofmoneyforrelativelylittletime.Annerecounts,“Theysaid,‘We’renotsayingdoitornot.Wejustwantedyoutobeawareofit.’”ThemoneyisalluringtoAnne.“Usuallygirlsgohomewithahundreddollarsanightforfourhours’work,”shesays.“Fordoingnothing.That’srightupmyalley.”Butshestillhasambivalentfeelingsaboutworkinginthesextrade.Everydaysheweighstheprosandcons.“I’veactuallygottenintomycar,anddrivendownthere.ButthenIgo‘no.’Itwouldbereallydisturbing.Idon’tthinkitwouldviolatemeasaperson,likerape,butIjustdon’twanttohearstufflikethat.“ButIknowafterawhile,Iwouldn’tevencare.It’sjustactuallygettingdownthere.IknowifIwastrained,Icoulddothetalking.Ijustgetrealnervousaboutit.It’sintimidatingforme,Iguess.”Anne’sawarethatthe“easymoney”shemightearndoingphonesexwouldbringawholenewsetofproblems.“Iwouldknowthatpeoplecall-ingmearesick,”shesays.“I’dwonderwhatthey’redoingontheotherendofthephone.Itwouldbeweirdandscary.IfIgotintothatindustry,I’dchangealittlebit.”Anne’sfriendstellherthatshe’salreadybittertowardmen.Sheadmitsshemayhaveproblemsrelatingtothem—”Ialreadytellguys,‘Don’tplayaroundwithme.’Isetmyconditions.”Sheblamesherbitternessoneverythingbutherself.“Sexisjustsoexploitednow.Alotofguyswanttoscrewasmanygirlsastheycan87b cMarieSanchezbeforetheirtimeisup.AndVegasinstillsbadidealsintoguys.Thatwomenareeasyandwomenaren’tsupposedtoberespected.I’veknownalotofguyswhoareplayershere.They’llsayanythingtogetwhattheywant.”Finally,sheconcedesshemaybepartoftheproblem.“Iambittertowardsmen,Iguess.IhateeverybodythatI’veeverdated.Idon’twanttoevenhearaboutthem.”■ ■ ■Ebonyskingoldenbrowneyesfirmplumpfleshshortdressseductivesmilefastfastfast—he’smydutybug.“‘He’smydutybug,”saysSasha,asixteen-year-oldsin-glemomaboutDarrione,hersixteen-month-oldson.“Dutybug.That’swhatI’vecalledhimeversincehewasababy.IfIdon’twannabeamother,Istillgottabeamother.Ijustknowthat’smysonandhe’smyresponsibility.”She’sinmyhotelroom,sittingataroundtablewaitingforlunchfromroomservice.Sheorderedastrawberryice-creamsundae.Overcrowdingintheschoolshasforcedthedistricttodismisssomechildrenat11AMandhaveothersstarttheirschooldayatsix.Thisleavesmanychildrenalonewithnothingtododuringtheday,and,somesay,contributestothesituationofyounggirlslikeSasha,whobecamepreg-nantatfourteenbyasixteen-year-oldboy.SomecommunityactivistshavetalkedaboutsuingtheClarkCountySchoolDistrictforrunningdoublesessions.Ifresidentsrefusetoapprovesufficientfundsthroughbondelec-tionstoreturnLasVegasschoolstonormalhours,concernedparentsmayhavetofighttheirbattleinthecourts.ButSasharefusestoblameherpregnancyonirregularschoolhoursorinadequatesupervision.“Iwasjustbeingfast.‘Youjustgottohaveaman,’mygrannytellsme.Ididn’tusebirthcontrol.Ijustdidn’tthinkitwouldhappentome.‘CauseIthoughtIwasspecial,”shesays,playingwithhericecreamandshakingherhead.TheepidemicofteenpregnanciesinLasVegascentersonlow-incomefamilies,saysJeanPalmeroftheClarkCountyPublicHeathDepartment.“AfricanAmerican,mostly.”Palmerheadsupseveraleducationandbirth-controlprogramsthataretryingtomakeadentintheconceptionrateforgirlssixteenyearsofageandunder.“Seventeen-andeighteen-year-oldsknowwhatthey’redoing,”Palmersays.88b cGrowingUpinLasVegasRancho,Horizon,andCimmaron-MemorialHighSchoolshavechild-carefacilitiesontheirpremises,aprogramsoontobeexpandedtomostotherhighschoolsinthecounty.Childrenspendtheirlunchtimeandoneclassperiodwiththeirbabies.Sashawilltransfertooneofthesenextyear,probablyCimmaron,andridethebuswithherbaby.“Everyschoolhasteenpregnancies,everyschool,”Sashasays.“Ionlyhavetwoorthreefriendswithoutbabies.“Everybodyasksme[whatit’slike].It’seasy.Idon’thaveachoice.IfIdon’tlikebeingamotherIstillgottabeamother.Itdoesn’tfeelanydif-ferent.”ForSasha,that’seasierthanformanyothers.Shegetsalotofhelpfromthetwoauntssheliveswithinafour-bedroom,four-bathhouseinNorthLasVegas.HerAuntCatherinehasraisedseveralrela-tives’children(includingSasha)sincetheywerebabies.Sashacallsher“Granny.”AfraidofherAuntCatherine’spuritanicalattitudetowardsexandhervolatiletemper,Sashainitiallytriedtokeepherpregnancyasecret.“Ididn’ttellanyoneuntilIwaspregnantseven-and-a-halfmonths,”shesays.“Iwasscaredtodeath.”Sashafinallyconfidedinherbestfriend,whotoldhermother,whothentoldAuntCatherine.“Itwasabigrelief,everybodyknowingandnotjustmeknowingthatsecret.ButIdon’tseehowtheycouldn’ttellIwaspreg-nant.Iwasn’tsick,butIwastired.TheyjustthoughtIwasgettingfat.“Grannywassomadatme.Shewasembarrassedbecauseherothergirlsdidn’tdothattoher.EverylittlethingIdonow,itrollsupintosome-thingbig.Istillhavefun,butnotlikeIusedtohave.Likegoingout,stay-ingoutlate.“Ishouldhavehadprenatalcare.Itwasalotofrisk.ButIwaslucky;Darrionehadlowironisall.“Icouldhavehadanabortion,butIwasjusttooscaredtotellanybody.IfIhad,Iprobablywouldn’thaveasonnow.Idon’tlikeabortions,butifyoucan’ttakecareofababyfinanciallythenyoushouldn’thaveit.TheexperienceIhadwhenIwaspregnant,well,IknowrightnowIdon’twantanymorekids.”Asunnyafternoon,mildweather,softsunlight:kidsareswinging,run-ning,climbing,laughing.SashacoaxesDarrioneupaslide.Nervouslyheallowshimselftobeseatedonthetopstepandpushedgentlydown.Halfwaydownhefallsbackfromtheunaccustomedforce,andfinishesonhisback.Shaken,hebeginstocry,toeveryone’ssoftlaughter.Sashapickshimupandwalkshimtothepond,tryingtodistracthimfromhistearswiththeducks.Hebeginstocallthem,extendinghisarms,stillalittleunsteadyonhisfeet.89b cMarieSanchezSashastartedhavingsexatagethirteen.Shesaysmostofherfriendsstartedatagetwelve,butdidn’ttalktoeachotheraboutitforanotheryearortwo.TodaySashalivesonwelfare.Althoughhepaysnochildsupport,thebaby’sfather,wholivesathomewithhisparentsandoperatesanamuse-mentrideatCircusCircus,sometimestakescareofDarrione.HeandSashastilldate,andshestillusesnobirthcontrol,exceptforacondomnowandthen.“Grannytookmybirth-controlpillsaway,”shesays.“Shegotmadwhenmy[other]auntfoundthem.Shedoesn’tthinkyounggirlsshouldbehavingsex.ButIstillseehim.Theylikehim,sotheyletmeseehim.”“Granny”Catherine,whoischildless,isverycautiousaboutSasha’sactivitiesnow.“Idon’tlethergooutofmysight.Icouldn’tstandtohaveanotherbabyhere,”shesays.Butallthevigilanceintheworldcan’tkeeptheyoungstersofLasVegasawayfromsex.“Justabouteverybody’shadeverybody,exceptmygranny,”Sashasays.“Now,IhaveababybutIdon’thaveaname.Ihavetobecare-ful.Ilikethisotherguy,butwejusthangout.Youjustdon’thavesexwithawholelotofpeopleunlessyouwantaname.”What’salot,Iask?Silence.Seven?Sasha’seyesopenwideinsurprise.“Thatwouldbebadforyou,”shewhispers.“You’dgetaname.”Sasha,whowasonceacheerleader,imaginesafutureinbeautysalons.“Iliketodohairandnails.”Infiveyears,shesays,“I’llhavemyownjob,myownplaceontheothersideofVegas,withmyowncar,atealHonda.Darrionewillbeingradeschool.”Andwhenshe’sthirty,ormore?“Ican’tevenseethatfar.Iwannahaveafamily,ahusbandandDarrione,andthat’sit.Iwannabedoinghair.Iwanthimtohaveagoodlife.That’swhyI’mtryingtogetajobandallthat.Iwanthimtogothroughschool.Iwanthimtohavefunlikehe’ssupposedto.”■ ■ ■CarolTurner,amarriageandfamilytherapistwhohasbeenpracticinginLasVegasforthreeyears,saysthelackofactivitiesforyoungsters,com-binedwithlowparentalsupervision,liesattheheartoftheproblem.“Asasocietyweshouldprovidethingsforkidstodo.Iftheygotoapark,theymaybechasedoutbytheneighbors.They’llgowayoutinthedesert,buildafireandhavesomedrinks.Thepolicechasethemoff.Iftheyvio-90b cGrowingUpinLasVegaslatecurfew,theygotojail.Theycan’tcruisetheStripafterninePMonweekends.Wherearetheysupposedtogo?”ThestressesthatadultslivewithinLasVegascarryovertothewholefamily.Andmoneyproblems,theprimarysourceofstress,canleadtoanimpotentangertowardlifethat’sunleashedonfamilies.“Iseelotsofdomesticviolence,womeninabusiverelationships,”Turnersays.“Mostchild-abusecasesarisefromoverdiscipliningoutofanger.Sexualabuseisalsohighhere.There’sagreatlackofcommunication,whichleadstoweakmarriages.Childrengrowupinfamiliesthatdon’thavetheskillstocope.Andifparentsdon’thavethem,childrendon’tgainthem.”■ ■ ■Hissingexpresswaysmutteringalleysrattlingvalleysvibrat-ingshakingstinkingseething—it’smytown.“It’smytown,”saysEricWeisman,18.“Myparentsarereal-estateappraisers,theyusedtotakemeeverywherewiththem.NowIknoweverypart.Partofitisreallydarkaroundyou.Partofitislightandpicture-perfect;it’smadeofhugecontrasts.Ontherimiswhereyoucanbesafe.”OntherimiswhereEriclives,inamaster-plannedGreenValleycommu-nitydesignedinSouthwestRanch,Hacienda,andSpanishEclecticstyles,neartheestatesownedbylocalheroesWayneNewtonandMikeTyson.Ericisdressedinbaggyjeanshunglowonhiships,alargeplaidshirt,andagreenbaseballcap.HewasgoingforatoughbutcoolstreetwisestancenearthedoorwayofacafeonBerkeley’sNorthsidetheafternoonwefirstmet,tryingtoholdhisownamongthegraduatestudents,profes-sors,andreligiousscholarswhofrequenttheareaknownasHolyHill.Thisbrightcollegefreshman,whoscored1380onhisSATs(theClarkCountyaveragewasabout1010),is,likesomanyLasVegans,initiallydefensiveabouthishometown.“Myfriendshere[inBerkeley]askmeifIliveinahotelroom,”hesays,withouthidinghisderision.“Theythinkthat’sallthereisinLasVegas.ButmychildhoodwasneverabouthangingoutontheStrip.ItwasnobigdealuntilIturnedfourteenorfifteen.“Ireallydolookforwardtomytwenty-firstbirthday,though.I’mgoingtodrinkandgamblewithmydad,thenwithmyfriends.”Andwherewouldthatbe?“OntheStrip,ofcourse.It’samagnet.”Ericdescribesthepicture-perfectlifeinLasVegas.“It’snicetoseethisstretchofstreetsobrightitblocksoutthesky.AndIknewIcouldalways91b cMarieSanchezdrivearoundandfindsomeonedoingsomething.Bowlingalleys,movietheaters,buffets.Iusedtoliveinbowlingalleys.”Butashesippedhislatteandtalkedfurther,hisattitudetowardhiscitysoured.Hisinitialdefensegavewaytoamorethoughtfulanalysis,aswewoundthroughaverbaljourneyintosomeofthedarkerandmoredanger-ousaspectsofLasVegas.“Therearetwopartstothestateandthiscity.There’stheOldWest,withitsmoralsandvalues:youshootaburglar.Ifhefallsinsideyourhome,you’reokay;ifhefallsonyourlawn,you’reintrouble.Theotherpartisthecasinos.LasVegasistotallyaboutmoney.Thestreetsaretrulypavedwithgold.They[theusual“they,”thepeoplewhorunthings]onlywantpeopletoknowabouttheStrip.OfftheStrip,there’snothingtodo.Theywantpeopletodroptenthousanddollarsandcomebacklatertryingtowinitback.Casinoprofitsgoupandup.Theyshowedustherecordsatschool.There’sneveradip.Butit’sacamouflage.Withoutcasinos,we’dbelikeAustin,Texas.We’dbelame,butatown,acommunity.We’dbealittletowninthedesert.ButtheLasVegasmentalityis‘We’rethewholestate.’ClarkCountybecameourstate,andweletthecasinostakecareofus.“WhatIreallydon’tlikeaboutit,iswe’renotthebestatanything.NewYorkhasthebestdelis.Chicagohasthebestpizza.Wedon’thavethebestanything.“It’sagreatcommunitybecausethere’salotofmoney.Unfortunately,it’snotgoingtotheinfrastructure,police,orschools.I’dlovetoknowwherethemoneygoes.LasVegasisaplacetovacation,toletlooseandpartyitup.Buttherearetwosidestothatcoin.Peopleforgetthatpeopleactuallyliveinthistown—evenpeoplewholivehere.Theythinkthey’reonvacationfortwentyyears.Theylosetrackofprioritieshere,becauseeveryonecomestoletloosetheirinhibitions.It’snotafamilytown,evenforthepeoplewholivehere.”Howisitforyoungpeople,then?Ericpauses.Thesteamyhissofthelattemachineandthewhirringoftheblenderfilltheair.Heanswers,“It’stotallynotorientedtokids.Nobodygoesintheresaying‘Let’sbuildatownforfamilies.’Noone’stalkingaboutthefamilylivingnextdoortothecasinos.“Kidsareanabominationthere.Ourschoolsaretheworstever,evenifthestatsdon’tsayit.[Infact,thecity’sScholasticAptitudeTestscoresareaboutevenwiththenationalaverage.]Wehavecrummyteacherswhodon’tcare.Igotluckywithmyhistoryandcalculusteachers.Highereducationishorrible,too.Wehavethreecommunitycolleges.IwastutoringcalculusatonewhileevenIwasinhighschool.Oureducationalsystemdoesn’tnurtureandgrowkidstogotoHarvard.TheygrowthemtogotoUNLV.”92b cGrowingUpinLasVegasWhat’sitliketogrowupinLasVegas?“Amongkidsit’saturfthing.It’stotallyterritorial.Asenseofcommunity?It’snotthere.Idon’tfeelit.It’severymanforhimself.Peoplearealwaystryingtooutdoeachother.”Aretherelimits,socialboundariesforteens?“InLasVegastherearenorestraintsonyouotherthanthelaw.Itriedeverythingthatwouldn’tgetmekilled.“MyfriendsandI,Iguesswedrankalot.Notbeer,whiskey.Andmarijuanawashuge,butitdidn’tdoanythingforme,soIthought,‘Whydoit?’“Iusedtopullupbesideagrandma,anoldlady,andmakefacesatherthroughmywindow,likeIwastryingtokissher.”Hedemonstratedbypursinghislipsandjuttinghischin.Thenheflattenedhisfeaturesasifhe’drunintoaninvisiblecarwindow.“Assheinchedforward,scared,Iwouldinchupwithher,”hesayswithaswiftlaugh.“OnceIwascaughtshoplifting.MydadaskedmewhyIdidit.‘It’sfun,’Isaid.‘It’swrong,’hesaid.SoIstopped.“Anothernight,myfriendsandIshotthewindowsoutofaboutahun-dredcarswithhigh-poweredBBguns,”hecontinues,excitedatthemem-ory.“Theminivanswerethebest.Glassshardsfelllikerain.Wegotcaughtthatnight,butonlyforspeeding.SoI’veneverbeenintroublewiththepolice,”heconcludes.“Somekids,theenvironmenttrapsthem.Smoking,drugs,drinking,violence,sex—thoseareLasVegasthings.“Whatmakesmedifferentismyparents.Mymomworkedoutofourhomeandwasthereforme.Bothmyparentsletmebeindependent,andmakemyowndecisions.AndIkneweverythingIwanted,Icouldget.Ididn’thavetostealit.Otherkidsdidn’thaveallthat.Onlyoneortwoofmyfriendsdon’tcomefrombrokenhomes.”IrunintoEricagaininLasVegas,diningwithhisparentsduringspringbreak.Heagreestotakemeonawhirlwindtouroflocalhangouts.WemakeabriefstopinmyhotelroomsoIcanchangeintotennisshoes.Ericspiesafull-lengthmirror.Dashinginfrontofit,hepullsouthistucked-inwhiteshirtwiththehip,bandedcollar,unbuttonsit,andletsithangloose.HepullsoutthewhiteT-shirtunderneathandlowershispantsontohiships.WedrivetotheNewYorkNewYorkHotel,walkontotheGrandCen-tralStationplatformoverlookingtheplayingfloor,andwanderpastthetables,slots,andbars,pastthearcade,andunderacanopyoffaketreesintotheshoppingandfoodareawithstreetsignsindicatingBigAppleneighborhoods.Canteensaffordtoeatataplacelikethis?“No,theyjusthangout.”93b cMarieSanchez“Thosearelocals,”hesays,pointingtothreeyounggirls.“They’reaboutsixteen,buttheywantguysovertwenty-one.That’swhytheywearthatmakeupandthosehaltertops.Theywanttodrinkandgamble.”AcrossthestreetattheMGMGrand,thebrightlylitarcadebuzzesnoisily.“Thisisagoodplaceforteenstohangout.Thelightsandnoisemakeitinviting.”ThenwetaketheshuttletoBally’sandwalkthroughitscasino,pastelegantshopsandasmallarcade.“Theydon’twantkidshere.”Thearcadeissmall,dark,andquiet.Nonoise,nokids.Exitingthroughafluorescentgreen,blue,andpurpletunnelechoingwithhitrocksongs,westandinfrontofournextdestination.TheForumShopsatCaesars,litbyaperpetuallychangingartificialskyonthevaultedceilinghighoverhead,isbigenoughtoaccommodatehugethrongsofwalkers,sightseers,andshoppersaswellasthosewhocomejusttosit.We’rejustintimefortheRomanlasershowintheinteractivefountain.“Ilikewatchingpeople’sfacesthefirsttimetheyseeit,”Ericsays.“Inevernoticedthereweresomanyadultshere.IguessIwasjustwatchingforgirls.MyfriendsandIusedtocomelooking,butwhenwedidfindsomegirlstohangwith,theywereusuallylocals.“Thosearelocals,”hesays,pickingoutoftheswarmsoftouristsaroughgroupofsixtallboysdressedinlongshortsandbigT-shirtswalkingpurposefullypastthefountain.Otherlocalsarehangingoutingroupsoffour,five,orsix,usuallymale.TheteenagegirlsIhadbeentalkingtowereeitherworking,hadplans,orhadn’tbeenallowedout.EricandIwalkoutintothewarmbreezynight.Ashapelyyoungcou-plecruisestheStrip,arminarm.Sheisdressedinawedding-whitedressandpumps,heinjeans,adressshirt,andastringtie.ThenewlywedsleadEric’sthoughtsinadifferentdirection.“Onesum-mer,Ihungoutwithagroupofguys,alltheywantedwassex.Wewentaroundtoseveralgirls’houses,roundandround.Ihadmoresexthatsum-merthanIprobablyeverwillinmylifeagain.”Isthatusual?“Alotofguysdon’treallyrespectgirlsverymuchhere.Butmymomwon’tletmegetawaywiththat.“Ihadagirlfriendoncewhosaidshe’dstrip.IfIwasagirlandIhadabody,Itotallyseethementality.Fiftygrandayearandnotalentrequired.“Sexinhighschooliscarefree.Notinthatyouthinkyou’llliveforever,buttherewasnoonewhowanteditthatcouldn’tgetit.”It’spastmidnightnow;I’vebeeninterviewingsince7AM.Canwegobacktothecarnow?94b cGrowingUpinLasVegas“You’dnevermakeitasateenhere,”hetellsmeshakinghisheadinmockdisappointment.Westopata7-11andbuysodas.Slotslinethewalls,andsmokeclingstotheair.Latenightpatronsarebuyingliquor.“Teensgamblehere,”Ericsays.“There’sslotmachinesallover.Noonecanreallystopyou.Ifcasinoscatchyou,theyletyougo.Theygetinmoretroublethanwedo.IhavefriendswithfakeI.D.’swhoplayblackjack.Andatmyhighschool,youcouldn’tgetcaughtwithcardsordiceoryou’dbeexpelled.“Smokingandgamblingareinseparable.Thesmokejustfollowsyouaround.”Hedirectsmetoadarkenedshoppingmall,pastsomelocalpoolhalls,intoTownCenterasthelastmoviesfinishandstragglersheadtowardtheircars.Wedrivepastgrandhouses,mostlydarknow,inGreenValley.Outontherim,youcanlookdownfromthesoftdarknessintothecity’sbowloflightsandquicklymakeouttheStrip,thebrighteststripeofall.IdropEricoffathome,wherethesafetyispalpable.Onthewaybacktomyhotel,IpuzzleoversomethingEricsaid.“Somefriendsweredoingheroin.Istoppedhangingoutwiththembecausetheystartedtochange.Andcommitcrimes.ButonceIwenttoseeanex-friendofmineandanotherguywasthere.Therehadbeenadrive-byshootingtheweekbefore.Myfriendtoldme,‘Thisistheguywhokilledso-and-solastweek.’Ithought,‘Oh,andherewearesittingtogether.’Itwaskindofweird.“EveryoneIknowhascontemplatedsuicide.It’sateenagerthing,notjustaLasVegasthing.Allthesetroublesandnoexperience.OneguyIknowslithiswrists.Iunderstandwhy.Irespectedhim.Ithought,‘TheonlyreasonIdon’tdoitisIdon’thavetheballs.’It’ssomethingweallgothrough.I’dstarttothink,maybethere’sareasonwhyIshoulddoittoo.Butit’swaytooscary.AndIhatethesightofblood.Soslittingmywristswasout.”■ ■ ■DorothyBryant,whorunstheLasVegasSuicidePre-ventionHotline,hasknownalotofpeoplewhohavekilledthemselvesinhermorethantwentyyearsofservice.Foraslongasrecordshavebeenkept(aboutsixtyyears),Bryantsays,LasVegassuicidesinthefifteen-totwenty-five-year-oldrangehavebeenconsistentlytwicethenationalaverage.Thereasonsyoungpeoplecommitsuicide,shebelieves,areself-imageproblems,andrelationshipsgonewrong.Problemswithself-imagecan95b cMarieSanchezleadtodiminishedself-esteem;theresultcanbeself-loathing,andcanendinself-destruction.Relationshipproblems,asBryantdefinesthem,includeconnectionswithparents,lovers,andfriendsaswellasthedeathsoflovedones.“Whenyoucan’testablishqualityrelationships,”shesays,“youhavemoreproblems.Childrenoftransientshavenoroots,noextendedfamilycloseby.Suicidesincreasewhensocialproblemsincrease.”Throwineasyaccesstoalcoholordrugsinanagegroupalreadyathighrisk,andthemixturecanbehighlyvolatile.FamilytherapistVolmarFranzsays,“Ifyouseesuicidesgoingonaroundyou,itbecomesmoreacceptable.Peoplethink,‘Wellhedidit,shedidit….’“Thistownassimilatesitsown.Atwenty-one-year-oldclientofminewasthinkingofgettingout.Buthismother,whoishighupinacasinohere,gothimajobasavaletparkingcars.He’smakingsixtythousanddol-larsayear—toparkcars!Idon’tseehimleaving.LasVegaskidswillgrowupandbecomepartoftheindustry,andthey’llcontinuetoperpetuategenerationsofLasVegaskidswhogrowupandassimilatebackintothestructure.They’llcontinuetoperpetuatethethingsthistownneedstosupportitseconomicbase.“Myownsonspendsallweekendhangingoutwithhisfriendsinacasino.Inanarcade,okay,butanarcadeinacasino.Theyseeallthiscrapgoingonaroundthem.Theythinknothingofit.Gamblingbecomesawayoflife.Itcertainlyaffectstheviewtheydevelopoftheworld.Butinwhatways,otherthanagamblingaddiction,I’mnotsure.“Gamblingisnotabigproblemwithteens.Theygamble,butittakesyearsforittobecomeanaddiction.Mostparentswouldn’tcalltheirkids’behaviorinthearcadesgambling.Butmostoftheso-calledfamily-ori-entedactivitiesinLasVegasarecasino-sponsored,soagamblingperver-sionpersistseverywhere.“Keepinmindthatthisisatoughtown.You’retoldthatyoucanfinallyhaveallyourdreamsofwealthfulfilled;butinthemeantimethistownwilleatyouup.It’sameantown.Understandonething:thistownwasbuiltononeconceptandoneconceptonly:takingotherpeople’smoney.“Peoplecomeherewithadream.Fairlylow-functioningpeople,withahopeofbeingabletogetover,dosomething,basedvaguelyaroundtheideaofgettingsomethingfornothing,somethingtheydon’thavetoearn.Thistownistheirlaststop—theirlastshot.“Thistownisalottougherthantheythinkitis.Itkicksthelivingshitoutofthem,three,four,fivetimesoversixmonthsandthey’vejustplayedtheirtrumpcard.Itdidn’tpayoff.“Teensseeit.Theyliveiniteveryday.”96b ElPueblodeLasVegasBillDauber“IloveLasVegas.Ilovethepeople,theweather.Butmainlyit’sthejob.”—FernandoMoya,26,whoearns$35,000ayearasabellboyattheMGMGrand“I’llfindajob.TheytellmeconstructionwillstartpickingupinthesummerandI’llfindsomething.”—LuisRamonRamirez,32,alaborerwhoearnsabouttwenty-fivedollarsadaywhenhe’sworkingFornineyears,JohnSoltelofixedflatsandinspectedbrakesatGoldstarTiresinPicoRivera,California.Heworkedweekends,holidays,andovertime,butwasneverabletoearnmorethan$6.50anhour.Cleaningsoiledsheets,dirtytowels,andbedpans,hiswife,Bernice,earnedamaximumof$7anhourataconvalescenthospital.TheSoltelosdidn’tmindtheworkasmuchastheydidtheeconomicbindthatanincomeof$28,000ayearplacedonafamilyoffourlivinginSouthernCalifornia.Astheirfamilygrew,theymovedfromWestCovinatoMonte-bellotoPicoRivera.Eachmovemeantsqueezingintoasmallerspaceforabreakontherent.Theycutbackonclothesforthechildren.Bernicemas-teredtheartofcustomizinghand-me-downswithaneedleandthread.97b cBillDauberEagerforanewstart,theSoltelosfollowedthepathfromCaliforniatoLasVegaswornbymanyotherMexican-bornworkersandtheirfamilies.Johnfoundajobasastewardinacasino;hisstartingpaywaslowerthanwhathehadearnedatGoldstar,butatleasttherewasroomforadvance-ment.BernicebeganwaitingtablesataMexicanrestaurantinNorthLasVegas.Twoyearsaftertheyarrived,Johnwaspromotedtoseniorsteward,atasalaryof$24,000ayear;withtips,Bernicenowearns$300aweek.Thisaddsuptoan$11,000increaseintheiryearlyincome,withnodeductionsforstateincometax.Thecouplenowownsanewthree-bedroomhomeinLasVegasandanewFordAerostar,luxuriestheycouldneverhaveaffordedinCalifornia.Theycanpayfordaycarefortheirchildrenandanoccasionalnightout.Bernicefeelsbetteraboutboththeirownlivesandthechancesofsuccesstheyhavegiventheirchildren.“Itjustprovesthatifyouworkhardhereyoucanmakeit.”On$28,000ayear,theSoltelosfelttheywerebarelymakingitinsouthernCalifornia;inLasVegas,withoutanyfurthertrainingoreducation,theyarenowearning$39,000ayear.“Wearedefinitelyasuccessstory,”BerniceSoltelosays.“Youwon’tbelievethethingswecanaffordnow.”FernandoMoyalovestogohikingonMt.CharlestonandtakesanoccasionaltriptoLakeMead.Hehashisownapartmentandrecentlyboughtanewcar.ThisnewlifeismadepossiblebyhisjobasabellboyattheMGMGrandHotelontheLasVegasStrip,in1996thelargesthotelintheworld,whereheisoneof8,000employees.“Therejustwasn’tajobinTexasthatwasgoingtopaymethirty-twothousanddollarsayearwith-outacollegeeducation,”saysMoya,26,whomovedtoLasVegaswithhismotherandsister.Allthreeofthemworkatcasinos;hissisternowholdsanexecutivepositionattheMGMGrand.“Aslongasyouhaveajobinacasinoandbenefitstogowithit,youshouldbehappy,”hesays.AftereighteenyearsinthesamejobinCalifornia,ElenaBurdettfoundherselfunemployed,andshetoosetoutforLasVegas.ShewasfirsthiredasamaidattheFrontierHotel,wheresheearned$6.50anhour.TwomonthslatershewassupervisingothermaidsatDaysInn;twoyearslater,shefoundherselfinthesamepositionattheLuxorwithasalaryof$24,000ayear.Butinspecting260roomsaday,sixdaysaweek,tenhoursadaycametoseemtoomuchwork,soBurdettmovedtoanotherhotelwiththesameposition,butlessresponsibility.Mostrecently,shetookajobatColumbiaSunriseHospital,wheresheplanstostartanewcareer.Shedoesn’treallylikeLasVegas,shesays,butcan’tcomplainaboutthelocaleconomy.“IwishIneverhadtomovefromCalifornia,becauseIleftsomanygoodfriendsbehindthere,”saysBurdett,whoisoriginallyfromPeru.“But98b cElPueblodeLasVegasthegoodthingaboutLasVegasisthatifyoudon’tlikeonejob,youcaneasilyfindanother.”■ ■ ■StoriesliketheseareonereasonsouthernNevadahadapopulationofmorethan1.3millionin1997,almosta300-percentincreasesince1980.Evenmoredramatically,theyhelpexplainwhytheregion’sHispanicpop-ulationhasswollenfrom20,400in1980tomorethan180,000in1999,anincreaseofmorethan900percent.Inincreasingnumbers,HispanicsaremovingfromtheirtraditionalU.S.homesintheborderstatesofNewMexico,Texas,California,andArizonatolookforjobsinLasVegas.AlthoughpredominatelyMexican,theHispanicpopulationinLasVegasalsoincludespeoplefromCuba,ElSalvador,PuertoRico,Peru,andtheDominicanRepublic.Itincludesbusinessmen,lawyers,andpoliticians,aswellasownersofradiostations,newspapersandmagazines.“IcametoLasVegasattherighttime,”saysLuisRamirez,whoislivingcomfortablyontheprofitsofthethreeMexicanrestaurantshehasopenedsince1991.“IleftCaliforniawhentheeconomywasonitswaydownandcametoLasVegaswhenitwasjuststartingtogoup.”Ramirez,71,soldarestaurantandotherpropertiesinsouthernCaliforniaandwasreadytoretiretohisnativeGuadalajara,Mexico,whenhissonconvincedhimtomovetoLasVegas.HesaidthereusedtobesomeresentmentfromotherbusinessmeninLasVegaswhenaMexicancametoopenarestaurant,butthatmostofthoseattitudeshaddisappearedinthelastsixyears.“Iamhappyhere,”Ramirezsays.“Wearelivingintherightspot,andIdolikegoingtothecasinos.Ilikeplayingpoker.Ihaveasystem.”SusanaReyessaysshemakes“lotsandlotsofmoney”asanattorneyinLasVegas.HerfathermovedherefromtheTexas-Mexicoborderinthe1960s,whenSusanawaseight,andtookajobatCaesarsPalaceasabusboy.Susana,whobeganhereducationinMexico,attendedUNLVandMcGeorgeLawSchoolinSacramento.ShehasbeenpracticinglawinLasVegasforthepasttenyears.ShecomplainsaboutthelackofLatinocultureandpoliticalsolidarityinLasVegas;mostLatinos,shefeels,arejust“outtogettheirs.”Butshestilldecidedtomovebackhereafterlawschool.“Ihadtocomebackbecausethisishome,”saysReyes,apersonal-injuryspecialist.“Thisiswerealotofcasesare.”(Morethantwohundredattorneysspecializinginpersonal-injurycasesadvertiseintheLasVegasphonebook,manywithfull-pageadsannouncing,“Sehablaespañol.”)99b cBillDauberButwell-to-dolawyersandrestaurateursarenottheLasVegasLatinonorm.Accordingtoa1994report,37percentofsouthernNevada’sHis-panicpopulationworksintheserviceindustry.Thesepeopleincludewait-resses,cooks,maids,laundryworkers,machineoperators,andstewards.Theyarepredominatelyyoung:fortypercentofthemareundertwenty-one,andonlyfivepercentaresixty-fiveorolder—astatisticalanomalyinaregionheavilypopulatedwithretirees.Theirchildrenmakeup21percentofthestudentsinsouthernNevada’selementaryschools,19percentofthoseinthemiddleschools,and16.6percentofthoseinthehighschools.DespitesuccessstoriesliketheSoltelos’,Moyas’andBurdetts’—letalonethoseofSusanaReyesandLuisRamirez—HispanicsremainthepoorestethnicgroupinGreaterLasVegas,astheydointhenationasawhole.AccordingtoCensusBureaustatistics,themedianhouseholdincomerosebetween1992and1995foreveryAmericanethnicgroupexceptthenation’s27millionHispanics.Theirincomesdropped5.1per-cent,toanaverageannualincomein1995of$22,860perhousehold.Andmostundocumented(andusuallyuncounted)HispanicsinsouthernNevadamustmakedowithconsiderablylessthanthat.UnliketherelativelysecureHispanicworkers(maleandfemale)whofindjobsinthecasino-hotelindustry,thelowendofthewagescaleisfilledwithyoungMexican(occasionallySalvadoran)men—mostofthemundocumented—withverylimitedornoknowledgeofEnglish.TheyflocktoLasVegasinthehopeofearningfrom$3to$8anhourasdaylaborersonroadprojectsandconstructionsites.Whenhiredbytheday,themostthesemencanhopeforis$25forsix,eight,ortenhoursofwork—onthedayswhenworkisavailable.Theysometimesliveeighttoanapartment,orthreefamiliestoahouse.TheNevadastatedemographer’sofficeestimatedthatsouthernNevadawouldnumber188,000Hispanicsin1999,16percentofthepopu-lation.Accordingto1990CensusBureauprojections,Hispanicscouldaccountforasmuchas21percentofsouthernNevada’spopulationbytheyear2000.Somearguethatifyouaddtheundocumented,thesenumbersarealreadythere.“Hispanicsarealreadytwenty-onepercentofthepopulationinsouthernNevada,”declaresFrankCorro,editorofElMundo,southernNevada’slargestSpanishnewspaper.Eightypercentofthese,hesays,areMexican.“TheproblemisthatHispanics,especiallyinNorthLasVegas,won’tallowthemselvestobecounted,”saysBrianBonnefant,aspokesmanfromthedemographer’soffice.“Butthey[represent]atleasttwenty-onepercentofthepopulationinClarkCountyalone,ifnotmore.”SomeHispanicbusinessmenputthenumberoftheirfellowcountrymen100b cElPueblodeLasVegasinsouthernNevadaat250,000,including60,000to70,000undocu-mented,or“illegals.”Whatevertheircurrentnumbers,theuncountedHispanicsarecomingtosouthernNevadaforthesamereasonsastheMoyas,Burdetts,andSoltelos:jobs.“Theycomeherelookingforsomethingbetter,”saysJosephinaNatera,asocialworkerwiththeNevadaAssociationofLatinAmericans,Inc.“Theyliveinhorribleandunsanitaryconditions,andcomelookingforabetterlifethat’snotoftenthere.”■ ■ ■At3PMonaFridayafternoontheCambiodeChequesatthebackoftheindoorswapmeetonEasternAvenueisbuzzing.It’spaydayforthemenwhoarehelpingtobuildthethousandsofnewhomesinLasVegas.Threewomenbehindalargeglasswindowarecountingouttwenty-dollarbills.“Viente,cuarenta,sesenta,ochenta,cien.Viente,cuarenta,sesenta,ochenta,doscientos.Viente,cuarenta,sesenta,ochenta,trescientos.”Themenstandinthreelinesofsevenormore,holdingontoenvelopesandidentificationcards.“Graciasporcambiarsuschequesconnosotros,man-tenemosnuestrastarifasbajos,”thesignsays.“Sialcambiarsuchequeustedtraesuidentificacionayudaraaprotejerseynosotros”(“Thankyouforcashingyourcheckswithus,wekeepourfeeslow.IfyouofferanI.D.asyoucashyourcheck,ithelpsprotectbothyouandus”).Thecenterchargesthestandard1.5percentcommission,or$1.80fora$300check.Inlessthantenminutes,forty-fivedustymeninshorts,constructionboots,andT-shirtshavecashedtheirchecks.Afteraweek’swork,it’stimetoenjoytheweekend;somemenhavebroughttheirfamiliestotheswap-meet,andtreattheirwivestoagiftandtheirchildrentoanorangesoda.“Alotoftheillegalscomeheretocashtheirchecks,”amansittingnexttomesays.“TheygethereatthreePM.Youcansetyourwatchbyit.”LuisRamirez(norelationtotherestaurantowner)wasn’tcashingacheckorbuyinghissonssodas.HehadcometoNorthLasVegasthreemonthsago,leavingGuadalajaratolookforabetterlife.Heleftbehindhiswife,Rosalva,andtheirtwosons,Pedro,6,andEmilio,5.“AssoonasIgetmyselfafull-timejob,Iwillsendforthem,”hesays.Ramirez,32,leftMexicobecausehewastiredofworkinginapipefactoryfor$4aday.HenowliveswithhiscousinJaimeandthreeothermeninatwo-bedroomapartmentneartheswapmeet.ItwasJaimewhoconvincedhimthatLasVegasmightbetheplace.Luistookhiscousin’soldjobonasmallconstructioncrewthatremodels101b cBillDauberkitchens.Butasthefourthmanonathree-mancrew,hedoesn’tgetmuchwork.Thefourmenlivetogethertosavemoney.“We’vebecomelikebrothers,”hesays,“Wehelpeachotherwhenweneedit.”Luis’storyisafamiliaroneinNorthLasVegas.RelativesfromMexicofolloweachotherhere,livingtogetheruntiltheyfindajob.Hesaysheknowsofseveralmensharingone-bedroomapartments,orseveralfami-liessharingonehome.“Americansdon’tunderstandthat,”hesays.“Oncewe[Mexicans]livetogetherforawhileweallbecomelikefamily.”Ramirezisfivefeeteightinchestall,withawiryframeandnarrowshoulders.HisblackT-shirthighlightsamahoganyskinthat’sbeeninthesunmuchtoolong.Hiseyesarelightbrown,beady,andslightlysunken.Whenhetakesoffhisredbandanahisfacelooksfriendlier,andherevealsaslightlyrecedinghairline.He’saskilledcraftsmanandcallshimselfagoodconcrete-finisher.“ButIcanalsoframeandlathe,”hesays.Concretefinishingandroughhouseframingare,infact,amongthemostpopularjobsopentoMexicannewcomers,whomakeitpossibleforClarkCountybuilderstoputupmorethantwentythousandnewhousesayear.Luis’slastcheck,twoweeksago,wasfor$150,mostofwhichhesenthometohiswife.“IsendthemoneyinAmericandollarsandtheygetitinpesos,”hesays.“FamilyisthemostimportantthingtoaMexicanman.Wemakesacrificesforourfamilies.”Luisisstillsearchingforafull-timejob.“Thebestwayistoknowsomebodywhocangetyouajob,”hesays.“Ifnot,youhavetoaskaroundandwaityourturn.”Luis’scousinJaimeworkedonthesamesmallcrewhenowworksfor,butJaimewasabletoturnathree-dayjobintoapermanentplace—whichiswhatLuisishop-ingfornow.■ ■ ■InthesportsbookatArizonaCharlie’s,apopularneighborhoodcasino-hotelinWestLasVegas,youcanfindmenstandingaroundanynightoftheweekinstandardconstruction-workergear—shorts,heavytanboots,sweatshirts,andbandanas—watching(andplacingbetson)gamesonthebig-screenTVs.ItwastherethatImetCarlosMartinezandstartedtalk-ingwithhimabouttheMondayNightFootballgame,justanhouraway.“TheChiefsowntheRaiders,”hesaid.“Andtheyaregivingusthreepoints.”Martinezprovedtobewrongaboutthefootballgame,butheknewalotaboutconstruction.Hehasspentfourteenyearsinthebusiness,includingstintsinCaliforniaandArizonabeforethejobsdriedup.He102b cElPueblodeLasVegasmovedtoLasVegasfiveyearsago.“Vegashasabouttenmoreyearsofbuildingandthat’sit,”hesays.“ThenitwillbejustlikeArizona,nothingbutadditionsandrepairs.”OnthetwentythousandnewhomesbeingbuilteachyearinsouthernNevada,hesaid,90percentoftheworkisdonebyHispanics—specifically,byMexicans.DrivingthroughthecountyyoucanseeyoungMexicanmenlayingtileinSummerlin,pouringconcreteinWestLasVegas,framinginGreenValley,andlathinginNorthLasVegas.Martinezexplainedthecasual,inequitablewagesystemforconstruc-tionworkersinLasVegas.“Theborderbrothersaretheguysthatgetscrewed,”Martinezsays,usingthecommontermforMexicandaylabor-erswithoutpapers.“TheyhangoutonDStreetwaitingforajob.Iftheyarelucky,theygetpickedupandpaidthirtydollarsaday.”■ ■ ■ThesearchforworkonDStreetbeginsbefore5AM.DozensofanxiousmengatheronBonanzaRoadbetweenNorthLasVegasBoulevardandRanchoDrive.ThemoreexperiencedmenstayawayfromLasVegasBoulevardandthe7-11conveniencestoreonitscorner,knowingthattheownerwilloftenalertpoliceandImmigrationServiceagents.Theclerkinthe7-11onthecornerofRancho,however,onthewestendofBonanza,doesn’tmindthedayworkers,becausemanyofthemcomeintotheshoptobuytheirday’ssupplies.“TheystartgettinghereatfiveAM,buyingdrinks,sandwiches,andice,”theclerksays.“Theydon’tbotherme.”ThemoreexperiencedmengatheronthecornerofBonanzaandDorBonanzaandF.Thesestreetsarerace-divided;theblacks,whooftenblametheMexicansforlowwages,gatheronDStreet.“We’llnevergetalongwiththeMexicans,”oneblackfellowsays.“Theycometoourcornerandworkforpennies.Theyaren’tgoingtogetawaywithpayingmethat.TheycanpayaMexicantwenty-fivedollarsforaday’swork,butnotme.”TheMexicanshuddleonFStreet,orclosertoPacificSupply,wherecontractorscometopurchasetile,drywall,andothermaterials.Thislargelyblackneighborhood,withitsdirtlots,run-downapartments,andthelongshutteredMoulinRougeCasino,isbleakanddepressing.Aseachcarortruckpasses,themenholdoutafinger,asiftoask,“Doyouneedone?”“Youhavetobeaggressive,”onemantellsme.“Ifyouaren’t,youmightaswellgohome.”HesaysthatthebesttimetolookforajobonDStreetisinthesummer,whenwarm,dryweathermeansthatworkpicksup.Toimpressprospectiveemployers,mostmenwearstandardconstructiongear103b cBillDauberandcarrytheirlunchinaplasticbag;someevenbringtheirownhardhats,toolbelts,andtools.Thelevelofanxietyriseseachtimeaconstructiontruckpassesby,makinghungrymenhungrierandmoreaggressive.Theyknockonthetruck’sdoor,ortrytoopenit.“Ifeelsorryforthosepoorbas-tards,”saysonemanwhopulledhistruckintoPacificSupply.Othermengatheringonthestreetcornersdon’tlookallthatinterestedinfindingajob.Somearealreadydrunk,withhalf-emptybottlesofliquorattheirsides.Somearestrungoutondrugs.Otherslookasiftheyhaven’tsleptfordays,andcouldn’tmakeitthroughatwo-hourworkshift.Othermenseemtobetherejustforthecompany,andspendmoretimereadingthenewspaperortalkingthantheydolookingforwork.WhenLuisRamirezfoundhisfirstjob,heandtwoothermenwerehauledinthebedofapickuptoaprivatehome.Hisemployerforthedaysimplyneededafewtonsofdirtwheelbarrowedfromthefrontyardtotheback.IttookLuisandhiscoworkerssixhourstomoveandflattenthedirt;forthis,theyreceived$75,$25each.Luiswasthankfulforthework,butdisappointedthathewasn’tabletosendmoneytohiswifeandkids,orshowhistalentandhardworktoaconstructioncrew—notthatarealcon-structionjobwouldhaveguaranteedhimmuchmore.■ ■ ■“YoucanbringinaMexicanwho’saskilledcraftsmanandpayhimthreedollarsanhourandhe’sperfectlyhappy,”saysPeterNelson,aconstructionsupervisorwithNationalHeritageIndustries.Thisispartofthereason,Nelsonexplained,that90percentofthecompany’semployeesareMexi-can.“Shit,ifitwereuptome,they’dallbeMexican.”Onthisparticularday,hehadtwocrewsfinishinglathingandlayingfoundationsforaSun-beamHomesdevelopmentinNorthLasVegas.Nelsonsatinhistrailer,inspectingawaterpipethathadbeenbrokenbyoneofthemenonthelathingcrewandhadn’tbeenreported.“Itellthem,ifthere’saproblemyoucancometome.There’snoreasontobeafraid,I’m‘Paydro,’’’hesays.“Ihavetoknowthesethings.IfIputtogetherhomeswithbrokenpipes,it’smyass.”Overthesoundsofbeepingtrucks,shovels,hammers,andconversationsinSpanish,Nelsondoesn’tseemtohaveanycommunica-tionproblems;thisispartlybecausetheMexicanforemenspeakEnglishwellenoughtocommunicatewithhim.Theforemenarethehighest-paidmenonthejob,earningsixteendollarsanhour.NelsonhasnothingbutpraiseforMexicanworkers.Buthealsohasplentytochoosefrom,andheknowsit.“Iftheydon’tbustassforfifteen104b cElPueblodeLasVegashourswithoutsniveling,thenthey’reoutofhere,”hesays.“There’replentyofotherguysthatcandothejob.”NelsonsayshecanbehardontheMex-icanworkers,andwillberatethemforajobpoorlydone.“Youbringinanyotherraceandcusshimoutfordoingapoorjobandthey’llgetupandleave,”hesays.“ButtheMexicanswillgetitright.”NelsonexplainswhyhethinksMexicanworkersarethebest.“One,youdon’thavetotellthemwhattodo.Two,theyworkfifteenhoursadaywithoutbitching.Three,theystayuntilthejobisdone.Four,theycantaketheVegasheat.”Nelsonstaresoutofhistrailerandpointstoahomefoundationthat’swaitingforthecementtobepoured.“Lookatthatqualityofwork,”hesays.“Itlookslikeamachinesmoothedthatstuffout,butitwasalldonebyhand.”TheworkwasdonebyAngel’screw.Thecrewwenthomebynoon,butAngel,theforeman,hascomebacktoinspectthework.Hemeticulouslyexplainsthedifferentlayersofrockandplasticthathadtobelaidbeforethecementcouldbepoured.Angelsnapsalinetoshowhowtheframematchespreciselytothefoundationanddeclares,“Perfecto.”Heisproudofhiscrew,andbragsthattheyfinishedthefoundationsforsixhousesinoneday.Histen-mancrewismadeupentirelyoffriendsandrelatives.“Allmyguysareskilledcraftsmenthathavebeenwithmeforfiveyears,”hesays.“WealllearnedourskillsinMexicoandarepaidforthemhere.”Hiscrewsneedmorethanbuildingskills,Nelsonexplains.TheyalsohavetoworkfasttokeepupwithsouthernNevada’sbuildingdemands.“Myjobistomakemybossrich,”Nelsonsays.“Ifthatmeanshavingfiveguysonthepayrollandfiveguysoffthepayroll,thenthat’swhatI’lldo.”ForacompanylikeNelson’s,thatmeansalmosthalfhismenarepaidunderthetable,andit’sthoseguys,hesays,whowillmakethreetofourdollarsanhour.Buteveniftheymakeitontothepayroll,wagesarestillnotsafe,becausethereareoftenkickbackstobepaidtoforemenorothers.“Ifaguy’sonthepayrollforeightdollarsanhour,thenhehastokickbackfourdollarsanhour,”Nelsonsays.“That’sjustthewayitis.Ihadtodoit.Everybodyhastopaykickbacks.”■ ■ ■LuisRamirezknowsallthis.Heknowsthatthreetofourdollarsanhouramountstoonlysixthousandtoeightthousanddollarsayear.Withhiswifeworkingtoo,maybetheycanearnsixteenthousanddollars.Butforallthestressanduncertainty,menlikeRamirezcontinuetocometoLasVegas.TheytalkaboutthefourdollaradaywageinMexico,thebettereducation105b cBillDaubertheirchildrenwillgethere,andtheirdreamsofbecomingAmericanentre-preneurs.Attheveryleast,theymightlearnenoughEnglishtoruntheirownconstructioncrewandearnsixteendollarsanhour.RamirezdoesmisstheeaseoflifeinGuadalajara,buthe’slivedinU.S.neighborhoodsfarlessfriendlythanNorthLasVegas.Ashetellshiswife,everythingtheyneediswithinwalkingdistance:TacosAmarillos,TacosMexico,TacosLatinos.InStewartSquareonEasternAvenue,theheartofNorthLasVegas,there’sacarniceria,VideoJalisco,BotasCowboys,andCostaAzulTravel.Attheindoorswapmeetwherehecasheshischecks,hecanbuybabyclothes,jeans,T-shirts,luggage,carstereos,toys,autosup-plies,andbasicgroceriesandpharmaceuticals;applyforasheriff’sI.D.card,birthcertificate,ordriver’slicense;andtakeoutamortgage.WhatmakesNorthLasVegasmostcomfortingtosomanyHispanicsisthatsomanyofthesignsareinSpanish.Mostoftheclerks,restaurantowners,andwaitressesspeakSpanish.TheKoreangrocerattheswapmeetsellspigs’feet,tripas,andJarritos(asodamadeinMexico),andcanevenquotethegoods’pricesinSpanish.TherearebigCincodeMayocelebrationsatFreedompark,andMexicansoccerleagues.St.Christopher’s(orSanCristóbal)andtwootherCatholicchurchesholdservicesinSpanish,andMexicanbandsthatcometoLasVegasplayforlargecrowds.“It’snothorriblehere,”Ramirezsays.“ButthemainthingisthatIhaveabetterchancetoimprovemyselfandmyfamilyintheUnitedStatesthanIdoinMexico.”■ ■ ■SouthernNevada’sHispanicpopulationisobviouslygoingtokeepgrow-ing,probablyatanincreasingrate.Theprospectofnewhomeconstruc-tioncontinuingatabreakneckpaceforatleastanotherdecadewillattracttensofthousandsmoreMexicansandSalvadoranslikeRamirez.Thou-sandsmoredocumentedHispanicsliketheSoltelosandtheMoyashavemovedtoLasVegasfromotherstatestofilljobsatthenewBellagio(3,025rooms),theParis(2,916),theVenetianontheformerSandssite(3,300initsfirstphase),andtheMandalayBay(3,700)aswellasmajorexpansionsbuiltorplannedattheAladdin,CaesarsPalace,Harrah’s,theLuxor,theMGMGrand,theSahara,andtheTropicana.IthasbeenestimatedthateverynewhotelroominLasVegascreatestwoandahalfnewjobs:oneandahalfatthehotelitself,andoneintheancillaryindustriesthathelpserviceit.HispanicswithoutEnglish-languageskillswilloverwhelminglytakethenonunionservicejobs—asmaids,cooks,laundryworkers,106b cElPueblodeLasVegasmachineoperators,stewards—thatpaybetween$5.50and$7.50anhour.Indeed,accordingtotheU.S.CensusBureau,Nevada,withitsimmensecasino-hotelindustry,employsmoreHispanicsinservicejobsthananyotherstate.A1997NewsweekarticleprojectedthatHispanicsinNevadawillnumber583,000bytheyear2025—thefourth-highestconcentrationintheU.S.,afterCalifornia,Texas,andNewMexico.AfewofthemwillmastertheEnglishlanguageandmaketheirwayuptheladderofAmeri-cansuccessasbusinessmen,professionals,andpoliticians.Butwhentheyfirstarrive,LasVegaswillbewaitingforthemwithvacuumcleaners,lawnmowers,shovels,andhammers.107b AViewfromWestLasVegasNefretitiMakentaWhenthesungoesdownandthelightsgoon,theglit-teringthirty-storytowersoftheLasVegashotelscanseemaliencolossifromaneighborhoodonlyamileaway,whereshabby,single-storybunga-lows,storefrontchurches,andemptylotsdominatetheterrain.Aclear-cutboundary—markedtodaybytwoelevatedfreeways,aswellastheoldUnionPacificrailroadtracksandavasttractofunusedrailwaylandalong-sidethem—separatesthisneighborhoodfromtheLasVegasknowntomillionsoftouristsandmoviegoers.Thepulseandflickerofthevisiblehotelsigns—“LadyLuck,”“GoldenNugget,”“Stardust,”“Stratosphere,”“Mirage”—seemtomockthepeoplescratchingoutalivinginthe3.5squaremilesnorthofBonanzaRoadandsouthofLakeMeadBoulevard,betweenI-15andRanchoDrive.WestLasVegas,asitisrespectfullycallednowadays(thehistoriclabel“Westside”hastakenonapejorativetaint,whichleadssomeresidents,planners,andjournaliststoavoidit)isactuallynorthwestofDowntown,adjacenttotheoriginalcitycenter.Thenamemakesitsoundlikeaninde-pendentcity,butunlikeNorthLasVegas,whichadjoinsitbutisinfactautonomous,WestLasVegasisverymuchapartofLasVegasitself.Thoughopen-housinglawshavehelpeddisperseblackfamiliestootherregionsofClarkCounty,WestLasVegasremained(asofthe1990census)hometo41percentofAfricanAmericansinthecityofLasVegasitself,and109b cNefretitiMakenta17percentofthoseinthecounty.Atthetime,itsresidentswere78percentblack,byfarthehighestconcentrationinanypartofthecityorcounty.WestLasVegasflingsfunkintothefantasylandimageofLasVegas,remindingresidentsthatitsnotorious“boom”hasnotspreadevenlyoverthecity.In1990,WestLasVegashadanunemploymentratethreetimesthatoftheLasVegasmetropolitanarea,andapercentageofwelfarerecip-ientssixtimesthatofthecityatlarge.Almostone-thirdofitsareawasemptyspace;vacantlandrepresentedthenumber-one“landuse”intheneighborhood.Reachingoutnorth,west,andsouthintothedesert,newhousingtractsnowencircleWestLasVegas,apredominatelyno-tolow-incomedistrictwhosepopulationhasremainedstagnantataboutfifteenthousandsince1960,whilethatofClarkCountyhasgrownbymorethan400percent.TheninetieshavebeenadecadeofchangeinWestLasVegas.Begin-ningin1991,theareawitnessedtheascension(andsometimesthefall)ofblackleaders,electedorappointedtopositionsneverbeforefilledbyAfricanAmericans.Theareareceivedtensofmillionsofdollarsineco-nomicandcommunity-developmentprojects.WestLasVegasreceiveditsfirstmiddleschoolin1997,thirty-nineyearsafterthefirstmiddleschoolinthecityopeneditsdoors.Evenso,drivinginfromtheeast,suchsignsofprogressareovershad-owedbythepreponderanceofvacantlotsandstorefrontchurches.Smallbeautysalons,hair-supplystores,andliquorstoresarethedominantcom-mercialpresence.UnlikeClarkCounty’sprosperousnewmaster-plannedcommunities,WestLasVegasreceivedverylittleattentionofanysortfromplannersbeforeApril1992.“There’snorhymeorreasontolanduseinWestLasVegas,”saysRichardBlue,formerheadofEconomicDevelopmentforthecity.“Youcouldhaveahouse,andnexttoyourhousecouldbeanauto-repairplace,andontheothersidecouldbeachurch.”Fromthestart,thefewzoninglawsinplaceintheareahavebeenunenforcedinWestLasVegas,wherecityplanners’traditionalapproachhasbeen“handsoff.”■ ■ ■Thebroad,emptydustlotsthatdottheWestLasVegaslandscapeper-formmultipleroles,asneighborhooddepositories,concourses,play-grounds,andrendezvouspoints.BesideJimmy’sMarket,onLakeMeadBoulevard,greenandbrownshardsofbrokenbeerbottlesarelayereddeeperintothegroundbythefeetoflittleboyscrossinganexpanseofdirt110b cAViewfromWestLasVegasandrefuseontheirwayto“Grandma’shouse.”OnDStreet,anopen-airlivingroomcarpetedbyconcreteisthecenterpieceofadirttractandahometotransientwanderersontheirwaytoandfromthecornerliquorstore.InafieldattheedgeofMartinLutherKingBoulevard,amultitudeofwhiteplasticshoppingbagscatchessagebrushlimbsandflagsinthewind,creatingasurrealisticallyornamentaleffect.AtthewesternmostcornerofCoranLane,athree-year-oldandherbabybrotherawaitthe210bus,restingtheirbottomsonthick,jagged-edgedcementchips.Theirmotherstandsbehindthem.Anunflagginggustofwindagitatesthelitterbehindthem,andliftsloosedirtfromthelotontheleftintotheireyes.Eachofthechildrenpeeksoutnowandthenfrombehindtinyelbowsascarsandtrucksroarpast.Furtherdown,ontheoppositesideoftheroad,twocinderblocksplantedindirtserveasseatsforthoseawaitingthenextwestboundbus.AcityplanforWestLasVegas,completedin1994,statesthat“Bussheltersareprovidedbyaprivatecompanyandarepaidforwithadvertisingintheshelter.Currently,therearenobussheltersandnoneareplanned.”(Theneighborhoodhasreceivedseveralshelterssincethen.)Infrontofelementaryschools,parks,andchurches,tobaccocom-paniespromotetheglamourofsmokingonlarge,seductivebus-shelterbillboards—theclosestWestLasVegasgetstotheflashing,two-hundred-foot-talllightboardsoftheStrip.OnCoranLane,IpasstheBreadofLifeMinistries.Maroonshinglesrunaroundthetopofthebuilding;flat-roofed,withoutasteepleoracross,itcouldpassforanold-fashionedhamburgerjoint.“YoucanstandonthecornerofJacksonandDandliterallyseetenchurches,”saidoneresident.“IfyoustandonJacksonandH,youcanseenine.”Threecrosses.Twocrosses.ParadiseApostolicChurch.PilgrimChurch.Onamid-afternoonSundaydrivedownMadisonAvenue,amedleyofgospelhymnsburstsoutofthechurchesontothestreetsinstereosound.Twosteeples.Twenty-sixchandeliers.TrueVineBaptistChurch.MomentsofMiracles.NewRevelationBaptistChurch.Paddedpewsorcouches.“There’sachurchoneverycorner,”onelocaljournalisthadtoldmeofWestLasVegas,anditseemedalmostliterallytrue:therearemorethanforty-fivechurcheswithinjustoverasquaremilehere.Infact,thechurchesofWestLasVegasaretheonlydrawforthethousandsofblackswhohavemovedouttothesuburbs.AlmosteverySunday,JerryLeighandherhusband,Thomas,backtheirwhiteChryslerNewYorkeroutofthedrivewayinGreenValley,111b cNefretitiMakentaclickonKCEPradioforgospeltunes,andtaketheDStreetexitoffI-15toSecondBaptistChurch.OneofthelargestchurchesinWestLasVegas,SecondBaptisthasapproximatelytwothousandmembersandtwenty-oneassistantpreachers.(Blackcivicleadersoftenbecomeministersoflocalchurches.)TheridetochurchinWestLasVegasisasadoneforthisretiredcou-ple,bothintheirseventies.“Lookatit,”saysJerryLeigh,gazingoutthecar’swindowatwoodenmakeshiftshacks,relicsfromthefiftiesandsixtiesstandingnohigherthansixfeet,with“swampcoolers”—primitiveair-conditioningdevices—perchedontheirroofs.“Peopleseealltheglamouroutside.Iwishtheywouldcomeandseewhatthecityfathershavedonehere,it’ssodepressing.”LeighhasbeenanexecutivecommitteememberofvariouslocalNAACPbranchesforthepastelevenyears.“It’sdeplorable,withalltheglitterinthistown.We’vemovedsixteentimesandthisisthedamnedestplace.Theydon’tneedusoutinGreenValley.Theyneedusoverhere.”■ ■ ■Afterworkonedayin1985,DeborahJackson,recentlyarrivedinLasVegasfromDetroit,walkedupanddownFremontStreetladenwithgroceries,tryingtocatchacabtogethomeandpreparedinnerforhertwochildren.Shestoppedatataxistandinfrontofahotel.Whenthedriverinthefirstcabrolleddownhiswindow,shetoldhimheraddress—aplacelessthanthreemilesaway.“IsthattheWestside?”heasked.“Iguessso,”sheanswered.“I’mnotgoingthere.”“Whynot?”“Wedon’thaveto.Idon’thavetotakeyouthere.”hesaid.“That’sjustthewayitis.”Shetriedthenextcab,andthenext,andthenext,untilshewasweepingwithfrustration.Aftertwohours,ablackwomanwalkingapicketlineinfrontofacasinosteppedoffinmid-protestandapproachedJackson.“I’veseenyouwalkingupanddownallthistime.You’renotfromVegas,areyou?”saidthewoman.“ThesecabsarenotgoingtotakeyoutoWestLasVegas.”Thewomanleftthepicketline,wentandgotherowncar,anddroveJacksonacrossthetrackstohernewhomeintheSierraNevadaArmsapartments.“I’llneverforgetthat,”saysJackson.“WhenIfirstcameherefromDetroit,itwaslikeIhadsteppedintoatimewarp.”112b cAViewfromWestLasVegasTwelveyearsafterJackson’sFremontStreetexperience,Ifindmyselfstandinginthesameplace.Alongwithhundredsofhappy-go-luckytourists,Ioglethethree-block-longcanopyofelectronicallysimulatedbirds,planes,fireworksandRockette-likefemalescapturedonarowoffluorescentpixelsswimmingaboveourheads.Archinghighoverwhatisnowapedestrianstrip,thisfifteen-minuteextravaganza,shownonceanhouraftersunset,isthecenterpieceofa$70-million-dollardowntownredevelopmentprojectcalledtheFremontStreetExperience,whichopenedin1996.Aftertheshow,IrepeatDeborahJackson’squestwithacoupleofcabdriversparkedlessthanablockaway,givingaWestLasVegasaddresstothefirstdriverinline.“Ican’ttakeyoutoWestLasVegas,becauseIcan’tgotherefromhere.It’sagainsttherules.”Itrythesecondcab.“HowmuchtoWestLasVegas?”“Whatdidhesay?”“Hesaysit’sagainsttherulesforaHendersoncabtogotherefromhere.”Thedriverjerkshisheadbackandletsoutapuffofbreath.“WhereinWestLasVegas?”hesnaps.“DandJacksonStreets.”Thedriverfinallyagreestotakeme,butonlyifIpayinadvance.“It’sgoingtobefourtosixdollars,sogivemesix.That’sabadneighborhood.”Residentsmaintainadifferentperspective.“WestLasVegasisalow-crimearea,butthestigmaisoutthereabouttheWestside.Youaskacabdriverandeven,insomecases,otherblackpeopleabouttheWestside,andthey’lltellyou‘Don’tgooverthere,you’regoingtobekidnapped,mauled,raped,murdered.’But,”saysJohnEdmond,ownerofthelargestshoppingcenterinWestLasVegas,“youneverhearanyofthatstuffgoingonoverhere.”Butthebarsonthewindowsanddoorsoftheneighborhood’sbusi-nesses,homes,andstorefrontchurchesbackuptheoutsiders’perception.■ ■ ■BeforeIfirstcamehere,Itelephonedanumberofcivicofficialstosetupinterviewsandaskpreliminaryquestions.“HaveyoueverseenWestLasVegas?”onecityplanneraskedme.“Fromthetimeweleftslaverytonow,alotofthingshaven’tbeendone.ButinWestLasVegasitsticksoutlikeasorethumb.”Theveryappear-anceofthearea,hesaid,“letsyouknowthatsomethingnormalhasnot113b cNefretitiMakentatranspiredhere.AndtheconditionsthatcreatedWestLasVegascontinuetoexisttoday.”“Whatconditions?”“Theredlining,the…Waitaminute.Areyougoingtoquoteme?”“Iwasplanningto,yes.”“No.No.No.No.Youcan’tquoteme.Thisisaveryracisttown.Igottalive.Igottaworkinthistown.”■ ■ ■Inthe1920s,LasVegas’sfifty-eightblackresidentscouldpatronizeanyandallofitsbusinesses,withtheexceptionofthedowntown,white-onlywhorehouses.Duringthenexttenyears,theblackpopulationgrewto178,or2percentofthepopulation.ThissmallincreasedisturbedthewhitemenemployedontheBoulderDamproject,aswellasthemerchantsandcasinoowners.WiththelegalizationofgamblinginNevadain1931,therepealofProhi-bitionin1933,andthecompletionoftheBoulder(nowHoover)Damin1935,southernNevadabecameapopulartouristdestination.Partlybecauseofthecity’snewfoundsuccesswithtourism,apatternofJimCrowsegrega-tionwasestablished.WhitecasinoownersdecidedthatAfricanAmericans,thefirstofwhomarrivedintownasearlyas1905,didnotfitintotheimagetheywantedtoofferwhitetouristsandnewcomerstothearea.Blackscouldworkasentertainersinhotelshowroomsandloungesforall-whiteaudiences;butwhentheshowwasover,theyhadtoleavebythebackdoorandmaketheirwayacrossthetracks.In1939,thelocalNAACPmadethefirstofthreeunsuccessfulattemptstobardiscriminationagainstblackswitha“RaceandColorBill.”ThecityrefusedtoissueorrenewbusinesslicensestoblacksintheDowntownarea.Downtownmerchants(aswellashotels)begandenyingthemser-vice.Whitelandlordsrefusedtorentlodgingtothemelsewhere.Ineffect,AfricanAmericansweresystematicallyevictedfromDowntown,anddirectedacrosstherailroadtrackstothederelictstreetsofWestLasVegas.“MyuncleownedpropertyonFremontStreet,”saidElijahGreen,co-ownerofthedilapidatedNewTownandTavernloungeonJacksonStreet.“Ilearnedtoswimoverthere,asakid.ButtheyflipfloppedusfromDowntowntooverhere.”Foryears,“Westside”hadbeentheneglectedpartoftown.Itwasleftwithoutpavedstreets,powerlines,sewers,orevenrunningwatermuchlongerthanneighborhoodseastofthetracks.Barredfromrentingorbuy-114b cAViewfromWestLasVegasinghousinganywhereelse,old-timeblackresidents,alongwiththousandsofblacknewcomers,wereforcedtoformaghetto.DrawnbytheWorldWarIIeconomicboom,andthepromiseofjobsattheBasicMagnesium(BMI)plantsouthoftown,thousandsofblacksheadedforLasVegas.ThemajorityofnewcomerswererecruitedfromthecottonfieldsandtimbermillsofplaceslikeTalullah,Louisiana,andFordyce,Arkansas;by1950,blacksrepresented11percentofthepopula-tion.(Theynowtotalabout9percent.)Thankstothewar,thesemigrantsfromtheSouthexperiencedanewfoundprosperity.“Wehadneverexperiencedthatkindofmoney,”saidGeorgeKline,abuildingcontractorwhocamefromLouisianaononeofthreetrucksthattransportedhisfamilyandfriends.“Theyneededpeopleatwartime.Defenseplants.ThatwasoneofthewaysGodpromotedblackpeople.”OfficiallybarredfromlivinginNorthLasVegasandBoulderCity,manyoftheblackfactoryworkerscrowdedintoagovernment-built,seg-regatedvillagecalledCarverParkontheBoulderHighwaynorthoftheHendersonplant—theironlyalternativetoWestLasVegas.Asthisnewdormitoryandapartmentcomplexwasbuiltwithonly324units,morethan1,000blackswerelefttotheirowndevices.“Wehadplentyofmoney,”saysSarannKnightPreddy,formerco-owneroftheMoulinRougehotel.“Wejustdidn’thaveanywheretolive.”IfblackpeoplewantedhousesinWestLasVegas,theyhadtobuildthemthemselves.KnightPreddy’sfatherwasoneofseveralmigrantswhodidjustthat.Duringthewaryears,manysetuptents,builtlean-toshacks,orsleptoncotsonthesand.ThecityrefusedtocreateadequatehousinginWestLasVegas,expectingamassexodusofbothblackandwhiteworkersafterthewar.WhenNevada’sfirstopen-housinglawwasfinallypassedin1971,BonanzaVillage—formerlyanall-whitesubdivisionacrossHighlandAvenuenowMartinLutherKingBoulevard—becamethefirstmiddle-classareainWestLasVegastoallowblackstomovein.Withitsranch-stylehousesandlotsconsiderablylargerthanthoseelsewhereinthearea,BonanzaVillageremainsthemostdesirableresidentialneighborhoodinWestLasVegas,withaverageresalepriceshigherthanthoseforthecityatlarge.In1978,SarannKnightPreddysays,shesignedthedeedtoaBonanzaVillagehousewhichcontainedanold(and,ofcourse,nolongervalid)clausestipulating,“Noniggers,noChinese,andnogoats.”“WestLasVegasisverydepressingtome,”saysKnightPreddy.“Hav-ingbeenherealltheseyears,thewholecityhasgrownupeverywhere,butthatonelittlespotoverthereisalmostthesameasitwaswhenIcamefifty-fouryearsago.”115b cNefretitiMakentaNotallowedtopatronizecasinosandotherbusinessesoutsideofWestLasVegasuntil1960,blackssustainedtheirownislandofprosperity.“JacksonStreetusedtobelikealittleheavenforblacks,”saysGeorgeKline,55.Inthelatefortiesandfifties,atleastfiveblack-ownedcasinosonJack-sonStreethelpedprovideLasVegas’sblackswithathrivingnightlifeandthebeginningsofeconomicself-sufficiency.TheNewTownandTavern,theCottonClub,theBrownDerby,theElMorocco,andtheEbonyClubwere“after-hours”clubs,playinghosttoentertainerslikeHarryBelafonteandSarahVaughnaftertheyhadperformedontheStrip.“WestLasVegasusedtobetheblackStrip,”saysStateSenatorJoeNeal.LongtimeresidentRoxieNewtonagrees,thoughshewastooyoungtoparticipateinthefestivities.“Blackswoulddressup,justliketheydidontheStrip,walkontherocks,andgooutandparty.”Butthencametheironicvictoryofintegration.AstheStripcasino-hotelswereforcedtoadmitallraces,blackentertainersandresidentsstoppedsupportingtheJacksonStreetcasinos.Meanwhile,saysNeal,“Therewasaconcertedefforttogetblacksoutofgaming,todenythemlicensesafterthecivil-rightsmovement.”In1997,JacksonStreetwasadesolateeyesore.Onegamblinglounge,theNewTownandTavern,remainedopen—barely.Severalbulbsonthesignaboveitsdoorwayneededreplacing.Theonlythingburstingwithlifeinsideweretheelectric-pink,green,andbluetropicalflowersonitscarpet.Anotetackedontoavideogameread,“Playatyourownrisk.”ElijahGreen,co-ownerofthefamily-run,one-storylounge,hadturneddownofferstobuytheproperty.“We’renotinthemarkettosell,”hesaid.“We’retryingtosave.”Indebtfortaxesandwithoutanonre-strictedgaminglicense,theownerswereallowedtohousenomorethanfourteenslotmachines.■ ■ ■IhangarightoffMartinLutherKingBoulevardontoOwens.It’satrailer.It’saninstant-photobooth,ahot-dogstand.No,it’sabank.Iwalkinandstandonthewelcomemat.Withmybackagainstthedoorandonepersonbeforeme,Iaminline.Attheleftwall,twocus-tomersstandshouldertoshoulderfillingoutdepositslipsattheminiatureinformationtable.At1,200squarefeet,thisisoneofthesmallestBankofAmericabranchesintheWest.“Whathappenswhentherearemorepeo-plehere?”Iask.“Wepacktheminanywaywecan,”saysabankofficer.116b cAViewfromWestLasVegas“Icallitabucket,”jokesSenatorNeal.Butbefore1992,therewerenobanksatallinWestLasVegas.Nowtherearethree,andoneloancenter—inparttheresultofadevastatingstudy,publicizedbyNeal,ofredliningpracticesinthiscommunity.“ThereportshowsthatLasVegasbankshavecordonedofftheWestsideandimposedafinancialcurfewonitslargelyAfricanAmericanresidents,”SenatorNealtoldAmericanBankerin1992.In1990,only59ofmorethan10,000homeloansinClarkCountyweremadeinWestLasVegas.“Blackpeoplehavealwaysputtheirmoneyinfinancialinstitutions.Andthoseinstitutionswouldnotrespondinkindwithcommercialloans,orevenloanstoremodeltheirhomes,”saysNeal,astatesenatorsince1973.“InanaverageyearbanksweretakinginmorethansixtymilliondollarsfromtheWestside,buttheyhadonlyloanedtwohundredfiftythousand.Weneededsomedocumentationtogetatwhatbankswerereceivingfromthecommunityandwhattheywereabletoputback.”ThereportwasreleasedlessthantwomonthsafterWestLasVegaswasrockedbyitsownversionoftheRodneyKingriotsofApril-May1992.Sincethosethreeweeksofconfrontationandviolence,WestLasVegashasreceivedanunprecedentedamountoffinancialinvestment.Followingtheuprising,cityofficialsclearedhundredsoftonsofrottingcarsandoldfurnitureoutofresidents’yardsanddumpedtheminalandfill.“Ifwehadn’tgotallthatcrapoutofthere,”sayscityplannerFrankReynolds,“peoplewouldn’thavedreamedofinvestingthere.”ButaccordingtoblackbusinessmanJohnEdmond,ownerofthelargestshoppingcenterinthearea,peoplehadnotdreamedofinvestinginWestLasVegasbecausethemajorityofitsresidentswereblack.LessthantwoblocksfromtheminibankonOwensStreetisNucleusBusinessPlaza,halfofwhichwaslootedandburneddowninthe1992riots.ForyearsafterthatEdmondtriedunsuccessfullytoenticeprivateinvestorstohelpfillhisproperty,hesays.Aftermajorretailerscontinuallyrefusedhisoffers,hetookadifferentapproach.Atfirstglance,theplazalookslikeanyoneofthedozensofstripmallsalloverLasVegas.AtNucleusPlaza,however,youwon’tfindTheGap,McDonald’s,orevena7-11.WithpublictenantssuchasJuvenileCourtSer-vices,ClarkCountySocialServices,theNevadaStateWelfareDepartment,andacommunityhealthcenter,NucleusPlazahasbecomeaone-stopcivic-servicesmart.TheonlyretailstorefrontsareDeeDeesOriginalBeautySalon,abarbershop,ahair-supplystore,andtheHeritageLounge.Thefoodcourtatthecenteroftheplazawasbuilttohousefiveeater-ies,butadonutshopandTheFishPlacearethesoleoccupantsofthiscavernoushall.117b cNefretitiMakenta■ ■ ■TheviolencebeganontheeveningofApril29,1992,thesamedaythattwelvewhitejurorsinSimiValley,California,acquittedfourwhiteLosAngelespoliceofficersofthebeatingofblackmotoristRodneyKingayearbefore.JohnEdmondsayshesawitall,watchingfromtheparkinglotoftheplaza.Afightbrokeoutinacheck-cashingstoreattheplaza’seastend.Awhitemanservicingtheair-conditioningunitwasbeatenupbehindthebuilding.EdmondsawtheSparklettswater-deliverymansprintawayfromhistruckwithbloodsmearedacrosshisshirt.EmployeesattheBig8MarketadviseditsKoreanownertogohome.Fivepolicecarspulledintotheparkinglot;theofficersscannedthearea,thenleft.Suddenly,atrashcanflewthroughthefrontwindowoftheBig8.LasVegaspolicedrovepastEdmond’sproperty,upanddownOwensStreet,whilelootingproceededapace.Then,afiretruckarrived.Firemenliftedthehosefromthetruckandattachedittothehydrant.“Mybuildingisgoingupinflames,”Edmondremembersthinkingatthetime.Butthefiremengotbackonthetruckanddroveaway,leavingthehosehookedtothehydrant.Firemensaytheyleftwhenabullethitthetruck,butEdmondinsists,fiveyearslater,“I’mrightthere.Idon’tseeorheargunfire.”“Whydidthepoliceleave?”Iaskhim.“Iguesstheysaid,‘Y’allmightaswellgoonoverthereandburnNucleusPlaza,‘causey’allarenotcomingdowntown.’”Today,inthefoodcourtatNucleusPlaza,CarlJohnson,now29,drinksasuper-sizeCoke,munchesafriedcatfishsandwich,andrecallstheeventsof1992.“IlivedwiththeCripsandwenttoschoolwiththeBloods.Themajorityoftheguysthatweretogether[duringtheriots]didn’tlikeeachother,”hesays.“Gangsthatwouldn’tgointootherpeople’sneighborhoodforyearscametogether.”MetropoliceagreethattheriotsmarkedatleastatemporarytrucebetweenthetwowarringLosAngeles-basedgangs.Laterthatevening,twotothreehundredteenagersandyoungadultsstartedoffinthedirectionoftheLasVegasCityHallandtheDowntowncasinos,butwerestoppedbyapolicebarricadeatMainStreetandBonanzaRoadthatsentthembackintoWestLasVegas.ReverendJesseScott,headofthelocalNAACP,toldtheLasVegasSun,“[Therioters’]planscoveredmorethanjustWestLasVegas.”“RiotsWereHeadedDowntown,”readthenewspaper’sfront-pageheadlineonMay6.Duringmuchofthetwenty-twonightsof“civilunrest”thatfollowed(theriotsinLosAngeles,thoughfarmorewidespreadanddamaging,werecontainedwithinthreedays),WestLasVegaswaseffectivelysealed118b cAViewfromWestLasVegasoffandshutdown,largelytoprotectthecasinohotelsofDowntownandtheStripfrombothphysicaldamageandtheevengreaterdamagethatmightbecausedbytheimageofriotersandprotestersintheirvicinity.Gasandpowertotheareawerecutofffordays.Hugesemitruckswereusedtoblocktrafficfromenteringorleavingtheneighborhood.“Itwouldhavebeentotal,totaldisasteriftheyhadgottendowntown,”SergeantDennisThomsontoldtheLasVegasSun.Anotherpoliceofficerwasquotedassaying,“Onemajorhotelfirewouldhavetieduptheentirepolicedepartment,andthatwastheirintention.Thentheycouldhavegoneandhadtherestofthecity.”Whenthefirstday’sriotingwasover,threedozenpeoplewerewounded,andoneeighteen-year-oldhigh-schoolstudentwasfounddeadintherubbleoftheBig8MarketinNucleusPlaza.EverybusinessinNucleusPlazathatwasnotblack-ownedwasdestroyed,presumablyonpurpose;severalotherspaceswereburnedoutaswell,includingthelocalNAACPheadquarters,awelfareoffice,andanAIDSclinic.Meanwhile,heavilyarmedpolicepatrolledtheareainarmoredvehiclesborrowedfromNellisAirForceBase,andgatheringsofmorethansixpeoplewereforbidden.Threewhitedriverswerereportedashavingbeenpulledfromtheircarsandbeaten;policeandfiremenwereattackedbymissilesandgunfire.FourhundredNationalGuardsmenweremobilized,althoughneverdeployed.ThirteenschoolsinLasVegasValleywereclosedonMay1,andnoschoolbusesweresentintoWestLasVegas.Bythetimetheuprisinghadended,WestLasVegassuffered$6millionindamage,$3.5millionofittoNucleusPlaza.(TheLosAngelesriotscausedatleast$800millioninpropertydamage,andfifty-twodeaths.)Intheend,sixty-fivepeoplewerearrestedinWestLasVegas.PoliceblamedtheriotingonsomeofthefivethousandyounggangmembersfromsouthernCaliforniawhohadmovedintoWestLasVegassometimeearlierandweresimplytakingadvantageoftheSimiValleyverdicttoshowtheirmuscleanddefyauthority.BlackcityofficialsandWestLasVegasresidentsIspoketosaidtheriotingwastheresultofdecadesofneglectbythecityandunwarrantedpoliceharassment.Atmid-afternoonintheHeritageLounge,abarinNucleusPlazathatwassparedduringtheriots,ThomasSanderssipsaMillerLite.“It’sworseherethantheSouth.ExcusemyFrench,butit’sfuckedup,”saidSanders,whowasborninTallulah,Louisiana.“In1992,IwasdrivingthroughWestLasVegasandapolicemanpulledmeover,”hesays.Sanders,anengineer,wasdrivingablackCadillac.“HeaskedmeifIhadeverbeentojail.WhenItoldhimno,hesaid,‘Ican’tbelieveyou’veneverbeentojail.’IguessIwasinthewrongplaceinanicecar,”saysSanders,38.119b cNefretitiMakenta“We’veallbeenjackedupbythecops.”saysCarlJohnson.“LasVegasisreallyalittlehicktown.That’sallitis.”AtaspecialmeetingoftheLasVegasCityCouncilheldinWestLasVegasinJuly1992,severalresidentsmadesimilarclaimsofpersistentpoliceharassment.Today,cityofficialsprefertocategorizetheriotsas“civilunrest,”aphrasethatrevealsthecity’sdesireforasanitizedself-imageandbeliesthelevelofanxietyandfearthatspreadquicklythroughoutthecounty,partic-ularlyinitsdominantindustry.Twoweeksaftertheriots,theLasVegasConventionandVisitorsAuthorityrushedtheproductionofavideotocalmdownnervoustravelagentsinAsia.ACanadiantourcompanycon-sideredofferingrefundstocustomerswhohadbookedtripstoLasVegas,astheyhadalreadydoneforcustomersheadingforLosAngeles.MayorJanLavertyJoneswenttoatravelagents’conventioninSanFranciscoafewweekslaterinthehopeofexercisingdamagecontrol.Suddenly,havinglanguishedfordecades,theneighborhoodonthewrongsideofthetracksbecameafocalpointofcivicactivismandlargess.Onthesixthflooroftheluxurious,new,redrock-sheathedClarkCountyOfficeBuilding,ImeetwithYvonneAtkinsonGates,theforty-year-oldblackwomanwhochairstheClarkCountyBoardofCommis-sioners—themostpowerfulelectedpoliticalgroupinLasVegas.“HereyouhaveapictureonnationalnewsofburningandlootinginLasVegas.LasVegas!”saysCommissionerGates.“Imean,herewearethegamingmeccaoftheworld,andyouhavethisoccurring.Youthinktheywantthatkindofimage?NOWAY.”Gates,whohadlivedinWestLasVegasallherlife,wasrunningforhercountycommissioner’sseatinMay1992.Atthetime,shedenouncedthelootersandburnersasjuvenilethugswhowereruiningtheirowncommu-nity.“Theyreallydon’tunderstandthesignificanceoftheRodneyKingverdict,theydon’tevencare,”shedeclaredonNationalPublicRadio.ShedenouncedneithertheMetroPolicenorthecity,but“thepeoplethatareterrorizingthecommunityrightnow—acommunitythatpeoplehaveworkedvery,veryhardtotryandbuild.Althoughit’snotgreatintermsofservices,ittookusalongtimetobuildwhatwehave,andnowyouturnaroundandyoulookandit’sallgone.”Today,hertakeonthesituationisslightlydifferent,herperspectivemorenuanced.“Theriotswereaperfectopportunity.Itwasanunfortu-natesituationthatoccurred,butitbroughtaboutpositivechange.Lotsofit.”“Howisitthatcommunityhasbeenthereforfiftyyears,”Iask,“andnothinghadbeendonetobringitonlinewiththegrowthoftherestofthevalley?”120b cAViewfromWestLasVegas“Electedofficialsjustdidn’tcare.”saysthetwo-termcommissioner.“Theyjustdidn’tcare.”LikeGates,FrankHawkinsJr.,thecity’sfirstblackcitycouncilmem-ber,wasborninWestLasVegas.InawidelyquotedremarkonNPRatthetimeoftheriots,hesaid,“Ifthishappensagain,youwon’tseetheburningofWestLastVegas,you’llseetheburningofdowntown—theburningoftheStrip,theburningoftheairport.”TheremarkdrewdownLasVegans’anger.LasVegasSuncolumnistJeffGermandescribedHawkins’commentas“costlyrhetoric.”“Hisremark,”Germanwrote,“islikelytocausefearamongthetravelingpublic.”Inacitycontrolledbytourists’perceptions,thestrongestcatalystforchangemaybeathreattoitsinternationalimage.“Theywillusewhatevermeansnecessarytoprotecttheindustry,”saystheNAACP’sChesterRichardson.“Riotingscaredthegaminginterestssobad.Wedidn’tgetredevelopmentmoneybyaccident.”Theriotsdidscareeveryone,agreesMikeLeonard,thenvice-presidentformarketingatHarrah’sCasino-Hotel.Beforetheriots,hesaid,hebarelyknewWestLasVegasexisted.TodayHarrah’ssponsorsaprogramatachurchinWestLasVegas,servingdinnertoaboutahundredkids.“Itwasanopportunitytobringbigbusinesstothetable,”saysHawkins,“tosay,‘Thisisnotanisolatedincident,butwecanmakesurethatthisisaone-timeincidentbecausethereisenoughtogoaroundandeverybodyneedstodotheirpart.’Andforthemostpart,noonesaidno.”Von’s,thefirstfull-servicesupermarketinWestLasVegas,openeditsdoorsin1994.Meanwhile,JohnEdmond,whohadbeenunabletogetbuildingloansbeforetheriots,hasrebuiltandextendedNucleusPlaza.“Lessthantwomonthsbeforetheriots,banksweren’tinterestedinloan-ingmeapenny,”saysEdmond.“‘Wedon’tloanmoneyoverthere.Wedon’tdothat.’Becausethisareawasseriouslyredlinedin1992.”Theneighborhoodreceivedprivatefundsforamillion-dollarexpan-sionofitsBoysandGirlsClub,whichopenedinearly1997.Publichous-ingwasupgraded,anartcenterandtheaterwerebuiltin1995,andconstructionbeganona$7-millioncommunitycenter.Hundredsofwel-farerecipientsfromWestLasVegaswereemployed,atleasttemporarily,bythecasinos.Amonthaftertheuprising,MayorJanLavertyJonesandCouncilmanFrankHawkinscreatedatwenty-six-memberMulti-jurisdictionalCom-munityEmpowermentCommissionwiththegoalofimprovingcommu-nity-policerelations,employmentopportunities,affordablehousing,economicdevelopment,andyouthactivities.ThecommissionincludedsomeofthemostpowerfulpeopleinNevada,includingSteveWynn,121b cNefretitiMakentapresidentofMirageResorts;BrianCram,thecountyschoolsuperinten-dent;andSenatorNeal.“Frankwasthemotivatingforce,”saysNeal.“Theriotsspokeofaneed.Whenyouhaveanexplosion,thattellsyouyou’vegottomovemuchquicker.Frankwasthereandcouldunderstandwhatneededtobedone.“Hehadfriendsamongthepeoplewhowererioting.Hemadedealswithpeopletokeepthepeace.Hehadtheauthorityinthecitytodirecttheresourcestomeettheneed.”■ ■ ■Thecream-coloredsecuritygateopens.PasttheMercedes-BenzandtheJeepCherokeeparkedinthehorseshoedriveway,FrankHawkins’smotherawaitsmeatthedoubledoorsinherhousecoat.Inthelivingroom,abronzeheadofMartinLutherKing,Jr.adornsthecoffeetable.Anchoredonthewallbehindthecouch,anEarnieBarnesportraitcap-turesakiddoingabackflipinmidair.Hawkins,astarathleteattheUniversityofNevadaatReno,wasbornin1960,andnamedtotheCollegeFootballHallofFamein1997.Aftergraduation,heplayedprofessionalfootballfortheLosAngelesRaiders(includingatriptoSuperBowlXVIIIin1984),beforeretiringin1988withatorntricep.Alife-sizeportraitofhiminhisblackandsilveruniformhangsonanotherwall.“WhenIretiredfromtheL.A.Raidersinnineteeneighty-eightandbeganworkingforthecity,”hesays,“IlearnedthatnothinghadbeendoneinWestLasVegasforthirtyyears.Therewerenomajorgrocerystoresandnobuseswhenthesunwentdown.”WhilegrowingupinWestLasVegas,hehadonlyavaguesenseoftheextentoftheneighborhood’sdesperateconditions.“Irememberspendingonetotwo-and-a-halfhourseverydayforelevenyearsontheschoolbusandrealizingthatthecloserIgottoothercommunities,thebetteritlooked,”saysHawkins,whoopenedthefirstgasstationinhisoldneigh-borhoodin1986.Later,heopenedasportsbar,twoconveniencestores,andacarwashthereaswell,inanattempttohelp“buildacommunity.”Wasn’titacommunityalready?“Acommunityishavingeverythingeverybodyelsehas.Well,whatdoeseverybodyelsehave?Theyhaveschools,sotheycanwalktheirkidstoschool,”saysHawkins.“Communitieshavegrocerystores.Theyhavebusinessesandbanks.Theyhavejobs.TheyhaveDairyQueensandauto-122b cAViewfromWestLasVegaspartsshops.WestLasVegashadnoneofthat.Theyhavepublic-housingunitsandagreatunemploymentrateandteenagepregnancyrate.”ManyWestLasVegasresidentsprotestedtheinundationofpublic-housingunits,begunin1949.InJuneof1994,FrankHawkinswasappointedtochairtheLasVegasHousingAuthority,witha$25millionbudget;hewasthefirstAfricanAmericantoholdthisposition.Sincethen,theHousingAuthorityhasspentmorethan$40millioninHUDfundsonupgradingpublic-housingprojectsinWestLasVegas,almosthalfthoseallottedtothecity.In1989-90,Hawkinschairedthehumanresourcescommitteeofacity-wide,300-personplanninggroupcalled“LasVegas2000andBeyond,”whichrecommended(amongmanyotherthings)ashifttoneighbor-hood-basedplanning,sothatresidentscouldhavemoreofavoiceindeterminingtheirfuture.CityplannerFrankReynoldsinsiststhatthe“LasVegas2000”reportspurredplansfortherevitalizationofWestLasVegasbeforetheriotsevertookplace.ThefirstneighborhoodmeetinghadbeenheldinAugust1991,andaneighborhoodadvisoryboard(appointedbyHawkins),whoseinputlargelydeterminedthescopeoftheplan,hadhelditsfirstmeetingjustaweekbeforetheuprisingbrokeout.Asacitycouncilman,Hawkinsrepresentedmorethan61,000peopleinWardOne,anareathatencompassedfarmoreconstituentsandterri-torythanWestLasVegasalone.Buttheformerathleteseemedtoholdaparticularfondnessforhisoldstompingground,andmanyresidentsandcivicleadersattributemostofthepositivechangesthattookplaceinWestLasVegasafter1992tohispresenceonthecitycouncil.“Frankwasthefirstblackpoliticiantobeelectedwithoutasignificantblackbase,”saysSenatorNeal.“Youcouldfeelhispresenceincitygovernment.Hebegantomovethings,andknewhowtomovethings.Youcouldseethechanges.”OnceHawkinsrealizedthatheonlyneededthreevotestopassresolu-tionsthroughthefive-personcouncil,hispowerseemedtoequalifnotexceedthemayor’s.PoliticalcolumnistJonRalston,oftheLasVegasReviewJournal,oncedubbedthebody“FrankHawkins’CityCouncil.”PlannerReynolds,fromhisowncrampedofficeinNucleusPlaza,agreed.(HehassincemovedbacktoCityHall.)“Hewasyoung—onlyaboutthirty-three—butheworkedveryhardforhispeople.Ifithadn’tbeenforhimpushing,Ibelieveitsincerely,nothingwouldhavehappened.PeoplecamefromWestLasVegasandaskedthecityforstorm-doorrepair;nobodycame.Overallthoseyears,nothinghadeverhappenedhere.Lookatallthosevacantparcelsonthemap,themixed-usezoning,123b cNefretitiMakentazeropopulationgrowth:thirtyyearsofneglect!Hawkinssaid,‘We’lldothis,’anditwasadopted.”UnderHawkins,blackswereappointedtotoppositionsinthecitygov-ernment.“WhenIgotthere,therewerenominoritiesmakinganydecisionsinanydepartments,”saysHawkins.“Ihadblacksandwomenappointedtopositionsthathadneverbeenfilledbyminoritiesbefore.”HawkinssecuredtheappointmentsofRichardBlueasdirectorofEconomicDevelopment,andBarbaraJacksonasdirectorofParksandRecreation.DozensofotherAfricanAmericanswereappointedtopositionsintopandmiddlemanage-ment.In1992,whenonecitycouncilmemberleftofficeinmid-term,HawkinsfoughtfortheappointmentofbankerKenBrass,whobecamethesecondblackpersonontheLasVegasCityCouncil.Hawkinswantedtochangethedominantperceptionoftheareabyper-suadingamajorinstitutiontolocatethere.Hebelievedthatthepercep-tionofWestLasVegasasadangerous,high-crimeareahadhelpedtocrippleinvestmentandlarge-scaledevelopment.WhentheVeteransAdministrationclosedtheirCharlestonStreethospital,hesays,theysearchedhighandlowforanewsite—offI-95,forexample,andnearNel-lisAirForceBase—everywhereexceptWardOne.Hawkinstookamapofhisfive-yearplanforWestLasVegastoWashington,D.C.,tolobbytheVeteransAdministrationtolocateitsfacilitythere.Inthespringof1997,atthecornerofMLKBoulevardandVegas,eigh-teen-wheeltrucksloadedwithlarge,whiteplasticpipingwereparkedinafenced-offlot.Slenderpalmtrees,baggedattheheadwithburlap,hadyettoburstintofronds.ThenewV.A.Hospitalwasbeingerectedasthecen-terpieceofaneighty-acreEnterpriseBusinessPark.ChesterRichardsonhadaccompaniedHawkinsonhislobbyingtriptothenation’scapital.“TheV.A.Hospital,”Richardsonsayssimply:“that’sFrank.”NoonedeniesthatHawkinswasthecatalystinnegotiatingthedealsthatbegantobringsignificantdevelopmenttoWestLasVegas.Butevenheadmitsthattheriotsof1992helpedtosensitizethemoversandshakers.“Theriotsmadepowerbrokersthink,”saysHawkinstoday.“Weusedtheriotstoaccomplishalotofthingswewantedtodo.”Duringhiscouncilterm,Hawkinshelpedcommissionastudywhichconcludedthatadisproportionateshareofcontractingdollarsfromfour-teengovernmentagencieswasgoingtocompaniesownedbywhites.Hethenledthechargetoensurethatbusinessesownedbyminoritieswouldreceive25percentofthecity’sredevelopmentdollars.ButalthoughhisaccomplishmentsforLasVegasblackshavebecomeapartoflocalfolklore,Hawkinswasnotimmunetotheharshrealitiesofpoliticallife.Hisfailuretodiscloseabusinessloanhehadreceivedfroma124b cAViewfromWestLasVegascompanyforhissportsbarpriortothe1991electionbroughthimbeforethecity’sEthicsReviewBoardin1994,afterhehadvotedonactionsinvolvingthelender.Inearly1994,hestagedaprofit-makinggolftournament,charging$1,000perparticipant.Heinvitedseveralcasinoownersandstaffmem-bersandvarioushighprofileathletes.Manyviewedthiseventasanotherbreachofpoliticalethics,sinceseveralofthosewhoattendedthetourna-mentregularlyappearedbeforethecitycouncilwithplanningandzoningrequests.Yet,becausehisseatonthecitycouncil(whichpays$35,000ayear)wasapart-timeposition,Hawkinsinsistseventodaythatthetour-namentwassimplyamarketingendeavor.WhentheLasVegasReview-Journallearnedthatthecity’sEthicsReviewBoardwaspowerlesstoinitiateitsowninvestigationofthetour-nament,thepaperundertookaninvestigationofitsown:itprintedacoupononitseditorialpageandaskedreaderstomailitiniftheywantedFrankHawkins’sdealingsexaminedbytheethicsboard.Fivehundredreadersdid.AfterthevariouschargeswereleveledagainstHawkins,supportfromhisconstituentswaned.HawkinswasfoundguiltyofviolatingNevada’sethicscodebytheStateEthicsCommissioninApril1995.InJune,helosthisbidforreelection.AlthoughhecarriedWestLasVegasoverwhelm-ingly,heonlywon39percentoftheoverallvoteinWardOne.SamSmith,withabeer-barrelbellyandbright-eyedstare,dolesoutadviceandinformationasakindofneighborhoodsagefromhissmallNativeSonbookstoreonacornerinWestLasVegas.“Hehadtoomuchconcernforhisbrothersandsisters,”SmithsaysofHawkins.“Hewasyoung,learningfast,andunderstoodhispower.Heplayedpoliticsjustlikeheplayedfootball.Hetossedalotofpeopleoutofpower.Themoneypeoplesaid,‘Thismanisdangerous.’”WithWestLasVegas’smostsuccessfuladvocateoutofoffice,themobilizationofhumanresourcesandcapitalrequiredtotransformtheneighborhoodintoa“community”seemstohavelapsed.TheMulti-juris-dictionalEmpowermentCommissionhasvirtuallycollapsed.“SinceFrankleft,”saysNeal,“everythingisdormant.”ChesterRichardson,localNAACPspokesmanandlongtimecivilrightsactivist,says,“He’sdonemoreinhisfouryearsthananyonehadintwenty-fiveyearsinWestLasVegas.Sincehe’sbeengone,ain’tshithappening.”PlannerFrankReynoldsdisputesthis,pointingatnewinfilldevelop-mentinallfourprecinctsoftheneighborhood,aplanfornewcommercialdevelopmentalongJacksonStreet,the$17-millionambulatoryhealth-carecenterscheduledtoopenin1998(“thebiggestsinglethingthat’sever125b cNefretitiMakentabeendoneontheWestside”),andnegotiationsforalargegeneral-purposestoreoncity-ownedlandacrossthestreetfromVon’s.ButheagreesthatitwasHawkinswhostartedandkepttheballrolling.AfterpolicemanMikeMcDonalddefeatedHawkinsasWardOne’srepresentativeonthecitycouncil,thecouncilredefinedLasVegas’selec-toralboundaries,effectivelyshiftingWestLasVegasintoWardThree.Whatthismovehasdoneistolumptogetherthecity’stwolargestcon-centrationsofminorities,AfricanAmericansandHispanics—anditstwopoorestneighborhoods—intooneward.Leadersofbothcommunitiesprotestedthechange,seeingitasanattempttolimittheirpoliticalpower.Anattempt(supportedbySenatorNealandtheNAACP)iscurrentlybeingmadetoenlargethecouncilfromfourtosixmembers,inthehopeofgivinggreatervoicetotheresidentsofthesedistricts.SeveralpeopleHawkinsappointedhavebeeneitherremovedorshiftedtolowerpositionsinthecityhierarchy,althoughClarkCountyappointedthefirstblackfirechiefinNevada’shistoryin1996,twomonthsafterblackfirefighterswona$600,000settlementforclaimsofracialdiscrimi-nation.“WehaveneverinthehistoryofClarkCountyhadablackdepart-menthead,”saysYvonneAtkinsonGates,chairofthecountyboardofcommissioners.“Iwaitedsixmonths[aftermyelection]andnowwehavethree.”Thedirectorsoftwocountysocial-serviceagencies,FamilyandYouthServicesandClarkCountySocialServices,arealsoAfricanAmer-ican.AtkinsonGatesremainsthearea’smostvisibleandpowerfulelectedblackpolitician,alongwithSenatorNeal.LikeHawkins,bothofthemhavebeenconstanttargetsofcriticisminthelocalpress.FrankHawkins,meanwhile,hasmovedon.“Justlikefootball,whenitwasover,itwasover,”hesays.“Whenyouredistributethewealth,whichiswhatIdid,changingthestructureofthepowerbase,thepeopleusedtothewealthdon’twantthattohappen.That’swhypeopleinvestinthepoliticalsystem—thosewhounderstand.Whenyougoagainstthegrain,oryouthreatenwhattheyhave,thosepeoplewhodonotagreewantyouremoved.Thosewhodo,theysidewithyouandworkwithyou.Ididn’twanttobealifetimepoliti-cian.Iwenttothecitycouncilwithamission.”Today,inadditiontoowningamarketingcompany,Hawkinsdirectsthenon-profitCommunityDevelopmentProgramCenterofNevada.IncollaborationwithU.S.Bank,thecenterdisbursedmorethan$16milliondollarsinhomeandminority-ownedsmall-businessloansin1996.In1998,theCenterwasgiventherighttodevelopGersonPark,aderelict,40-acrehousingprojectinWestLasVegas,bytheU.S.DepartmentofHousingandUrbanDevelopment.CDPCdemolishedtheoldbuildings126b cAViewfromWestLasVegasin1998,and(incollaborationwithlocalbuilders),planstoerect365unitsofnew,affordablehousingonthesite.■ ■ ■CominginonVegasDrive,thewesternextensionofOwens,IrolltowardMartinLutherKingBoulevard.FlagsofchangenowflankVegasDrive.RICHMONDAMERICANGATEDCOMMUNITY.HILLCRESTPRICESFROMTHE60S.SINGLESTORYHOMESNOWAVAILABLE.FREEMINIBLINDS.APPLIANCES.POOLSIZELOTS.WhilethepopulationsofboththecityofLasVegasandClarkCountyhavemorethandoubledsince1970,thepopulationofWestLasVegashasdecreased.“WhomovingtoLasVegaswantstoliveinathirty-toforty-year-oldhouse?”asksHawkins.ThoughmorethanthreehundredhouseswerebuiltinWestLasVegasinthe1970s,onlyahandfulwentupinthe1980s.Butthepacehaspickedupsincethen;privatedevelopershavebegunnewsubdivisionswestofTonopahDrive.Morethan900newhousesareinconstructionalongthiscorridorinWestLasVegas.AsIpullintotheparkinglotoftheschoolonVegasDrive,fiveLatinoworkmenmethodicallyspreadmortarbetweenvariedheightsofconcreteblocksacrossfromAdvancedTechnologiesAcademy.With650comput-ersfor750students,twonineteen-inchTVmonitorsineachclassroom,andstudentswhosereadingandmathscoresleadthoseofalleighteenClarkCountyhighschools,“A-Tech”definitelystandsoutinWestLasVegas.Itstandsoutbecause(1)itwasthefirstandonlyhighschoolbuiltinthisneighborhood;(2)itistheonlyhighschoolinthecountyvisitedbyVicePresidentGore;and(3)manylocalresidentsstillregardthisscience-and-technology“magnetschool,”whichdrawsstudentsfromalloverthedistrict,asanunacceptablealternativetoacomprehensivepublicschoolbuiltforyouthswholiveinthecommunity.Attheendofeachschoolday,atleastsevenbright-yellowbuseslineupoutsideA-TechandleaveWestLasVegasviaMartinLutherKingBoulevardtakingstudentshometoneighborhoodsasfarawayasMcCarranAirport.Admissiontothiseliteschoolattheedgeofthe“‘hood,”fundedinpartbythefederalgovernmentforitsfirsttwoyears,ishighlycompetitive,drawingfourapplicantsforeachavailablespot.AdvancedTechnologiesissupposedtocreatearepresentativeracialbalance,meaningthattheratioofwhitestudentstononwhitestudentsistoreflectthetotalstudentpopu-lationinthecounty,plusorminus5percent.Whentheschoolfirst127b cNefretitiMakentaopened,in1994,morethan17percentofthestudentswereAfricanAmer-ican;by1997,thatproportionhaddecreasedtolessthan14percent,andwasthenrepresentativeofthepopulationofblackstudentsinClarkCounty.However,inthe1997-98schoolyearthepopulationofwhitestu-dentsatA-Techwas65percent,or9percenthigherthantheirrepresenta-tioninthecounty.FewerthanthirtyfivestudentsattheschoolliveinWestLasVegas.AccordingtoClarkCountySchoolDistrictspokesmanRayWillis,“TherearenoseatsreservedforWestLasVegaskids”atAdvancedTech.ThoughWestLasVegashasmoreschool-agechildrenpercapitathananyotherregioninthecounty,therewasnomiddleschoolwithinitsperimeteruntil1998.Beforethen,middle-schoolstudentswerebusedtotendifferentschoolsoutsidetheneighborhood.High-schoolstudentsdeniedadmissiontoAdvancedTecharestillbusedtosevendifferentschools.Until1994,allWestLasVegasyouthwerebusedoutsidetheirneighborhoodforelevenoftheirtwelvepublic-schoolyears.(Theareanowhasfiveelemen-taryschools.)“We’velosttwogenerationsofkids,”saysMarzetteLewis,anuncompromisingfighterforWestLasVegasschoolchildren.SomeresidentscriticizeLewis’sapproachas“rougharoundtheedges.”Butthisfierywomanwithbighairandaperenniallyhoarsevoiceseemstogetresultsdespite(orperhapsbecauseof)herpit-bullstyle.In1994,MarzetteLewisandherorganization,“WestsideActionAllianceKorp-UpliftingPeople”(sonamedinordertoyieldtheacronym“WAAKUP”),protesteda$300-millionbondissueforClarkCountyschooldevelop-mentbecauseneighborhoodschoolshadnotbeenscheduledforWestLasVegas.“Theyhadpassedbondsbefore,butwedidn’tgetanythingfromit,”saysLewis,56.Indeed,thebondissuedidnotpass,althoughmostobserversattributeditsfailuretoanimpliedriseinpropertytaxes,whichClarkCountyvotersabhor,ratherthantoanyinjusticedonetoWestLasVegas.(Another$605-millionschoolbondissue,withnotaximplications,waspassedatthesametime,aswasa$643-millionschoolbondvotein1996.In1998,votersapprovedaten-yearextensionoftheseearliertaxincreases,whichshouldyieldanother$2.5billionforClarkCountySchools.)“Inmyview,”saysspokesmanWillis,“MarzetteLewisistalkingrepa-rations.She’stalkingaboutgettingourfortyacresandamule.Butthat’saluxury,”hesays.“We’rechasinggrowth.”IfreparationsareLewis’sgoal,herappealforfederalinterventionaffirmstheintensityofherquest.LewisfiledacomplaintwiththeCivilRightsDivisionoftheU.S.DepartmentofJusticeforwhatherorganiza-tiondeemedabuseofbondfundingbytheClarkCountySchoolDistrict,128b cAViewfromWestLasVegasandthedepartmentsupportedherclaim.LewisislargelycreditedwiththeconversionofWestLasVegas’ssixth-gradecentersintoelementaryandmagnetschools,andtheallotmentof$17millionforanewmiddleschoolinWestLasVegas.But,saysLewis,thisisnotenough.SheandthetwentyactivemembersofWAAKUPwantaneighborhoodhighschoolaswell.In1996,LewisledanappealtothecountyschoolboardtoexpandA-Techintoacomprehen-siveschoolforatleast2,000students,buttheboardvoted4-2againstit.Acrossthecountry,blacksarequestioningthesocialcostsofthecross-townbusingthatcivil-rightsleadersoncesupported;questioningtheideathattheirchildrenneedtositbesidewhitechildreninordertolearn;real-izingthatinthenameofracialbalance,magnetschoolsoftenexcludetheverystudentsdesegregationwasintendedtohelp;anddecidingthattheirnewfocusshouldbeimprovingtheschoolsintheirownneighborhoods.RoxieNewton,aWestLasVegascosmetologist,isamongthem.“I’mnottryingtosayweshouldn’thavehadthefreedomtodoandgowherewewantto,butintegrationinthiscitywasbadbecauseittookawaymorethanitgaveback—ourbusinesses,ourkids.That’swherewelostourkids,”shesays.“Whenthoseschooldistrictsintegrated.”NewtonpeersthroughtheVenetianblindsatDeeDee’sBeautySaloninNucleusPlaza,towardsthebignewVon’ssupermarketinWestlandPlaza—aprojectfundedinpartbybasketballstarMagicJohnson,whosedevelopmentgroupownsthelot.Von’s,theanchortenant,withthirtythousandsquarefeet,madethedecisiontoerectthemetalfencebywhichtheentirenewplazaissurrounded.WhilethewallssurroundingotherLasVegascommunitiessignifyexclusivityandprivilege,theblack-paintedironfencearoundVon’stookonanotherconnotation.“Itlookedlikeaprison,”saystheNAACP’sRichardson.“Strange,”murmursNewton.“Ifthegateisgoingtostayopen,whydiditneedtobefencedoff,anyway?”LikemanystoresandeatingplacesinLasVegas,themarketisopen24hoursaday,everydayoftheyear.“Youhavenoothergrocerystoreintownwithafencearoundit.Sowhythisone?”HergranddaughterMahogannyrunsaroundthesalonasNewtonmassagesacetoneonacustomer’snails.AccordingtoVon’sspokesman,BrianDowling,thefenceistheretoprotectthebusinessandpresentan“auraofsecurity”toemployeesandcustomers.ThisparticularVon’s,oneofsixteeninClarkCounty,istheonlyoneenclosedbyafence.Aftercommunityprotests,thefencewaspaintedbeigetoblendinwiththerestofthecenter.Butthesymbolicbarrierremains.129b cNefretitiMakenta■ ■ ■TheMoulinRougeCasinoopenedinWestLasVegasin1955asthefirstintegratedcasino-hotelinthecountry.At88,900squarefeet,thecasinorivaledthoseontheStripinreputation,size,andsplendor.Itsofficialhost,heavyweightchampionJoeLouis,greetedcelebratedentertainerssuchasHarryBelafonte,SammyDavisJr.,PearlBailey,andGeorgeBurns.Attheheightofitspopularity,theMoulinRougeinstituteda“thirdshow”at2:30AM,amovethatledStriphotelstoaddlateperformancesoftheirown,sincetheclubdrewhighrollersawayfromtheStripandwaspackedforeveryperformance.Butinlessthanfivemonths,theclubcloseditsdoors.Theofficialstoryisthattheownerwentbankruptbecauseofmisman-agement.Somebelieve,however,thatStripoperatorsurgedcreditorsoftheMoulinRougetosueforpaymentofoverduebills.Followingtheclub’sclosure,Stripcasinosbegantoeasetheirracialrestrictionsforblackentertainers.Theclubwasreopenedin1957.In1960,underLeoFrye’sownership,theMoulinRougebecameapartoflocalhistorywhenaseriesofmeet-ingsbetweenLasVegascivil-rightsleadersandpublicofficialsculminatedintheofficialendtoracialdiscriminationinpublicaccommodationsinNevada,withlegislationsignedattheMoulinRouge.Thepropertyhasbeeninthehandsofanumberofleaseholderssince.SarannKnightPreddymadeanattempttorestoretheMoulinRougewhensheandherfamilyleasedthepropertyin1985.Preddy’sfatherwasaconstructionworkerwhohelpedbuildtheresort;somemembersofherfamilywerethefirstblackstoownacasino-resort.Butdespiteitshistoriclandmarkdesignation,andalltheattemptstosalvageit,theMoulinRougehasstoodasadefunctrelicofthepast,ablackholeinLasVegasfordecades.Onaspringdayin1997,abandonedvehicleswithouthubcaps,tires,orsignallightslieinthelandmark’sparkinglot,whichissharedbytheReli-giousEmporium,theBeautyBar,andtheLipstickandNailCenter.Largecracksrunalongthefrontandsidesofthemauvebuilding.Theswimmingpoolhasbeenemptysince1992.Inside,thescentofmildewfillstheair.Alongpieceofsilverducttaperunsdownthecarpet.Thegamingtablesareblotchedwithnumerousshapesandhuesofbrown.Glitterandwaterspotsclingtotheceiling,fromthemiddleofwhichdanglethreelittleredpuffedstars.Theshow-roomhasbeenclosedformorethanfortyyears.Inthevacantrestaurantandbar,morepuffednoveltieshangfromtheceiling.Athree-tiereddisplaycaseofferscostumejewelryandT-shirts130b cAViewfromWestLasVegaswith“HistoricMoulinRouge”writtenacrossthefront.Alarge,black-and-whitephotographofJoeLouishangsnexttothedoor,whereonceuponatimehegreetedvisitors.Beyondthepicture,alargecrackrunsdownthewallinthefoyer,allowingnaturallighttoshineintothedarkhall.Asignonthewallreads,“Nodrugs,firearms,outsidefood,drink.Wesupportourpolice.”AstudyinitiatedbyHawkinsandcommissionedbythecitydeter-minedthattheMoulinRougewouldhaveagoodchanceoffinancialsuc-cessifitcouldberenovated.SothecityagreedthatifthePreddyfamilycouldraise$3millionforitsrestoration,theywouldsubmitaproposaltoHUDtomatchthatamount,andcontributeagrantofonemilliondollarsontopofit.ButthePreddyswereunabletocomeupwiththemoney.Afterinvest-ingalmostamilliondollarsintheproperty(plusthousandsmoreintheirunsuccessfulapplicationsforapermanentgaminglicense),SarannKnightPreddysayssheisbroke,andherfamily’sentreatiestoinvestorshaveallfailed.Overthelasttwelveyears,Preddyhassoldherhomeandotherprop-ertytokeeptheMoulinRougeopen.“MywholelifewentintotheMoulinRouge,”shesays.“Itreallyhasn’tgottenoutmysystem,butasfarasmyfamilyisconcernedwe’vehadenoughofit.”AlthoughPreddyreceived$250,000instatefundsforrenovation,shesaystheamountwasonlyenoughtoreplacetheroof,soshegaveitback.Soonafter-wards,shevoluntarilyhandedthekeysbacktolongtimepropertyownerLeoFrye.InOctober1996,theclub’sdoorswereclosedoncemore.SincetheMoulinRougewasdeclaredahistoricsitebutnotahistoricbuilding,Fryeplannedtodemolishthebuilding,dividetheland,andleaseitoutinsepa-rateparcels.Butinthespringof1997,FryesoldtheMoulinRougefor$3million.BartMaybie,whoownssixhundredapartmentunitsinWestLasVegas,haspurchasedandgatedalltheapartmentbuildingsincloseproximitytotheclub,andheexpectshisfull-servicecasinotoberenovated,restored,andbroughtuptocodebeforetheyear2000.Hisprescriptionforsuccessincludesatransformationofthesurroundingdilapidatedneighborhood.Butwithoutanonrestrictedgaminglicense(whichJohnEdmondhopestoobtaininordertoleasetherestoredcasino),thefateoftheonlycasinoinWestLasVegasremainsunclear.“Forittositrightthereintheblackneighborhood,sobleakandrun-down,isreallylikeasorethumb,”saysPreddy.Itmakesthewholeareafeelisolated—likeit’stheendoftheworld.”131b WaterfortheDesertMiracleJennaWardFromthewindowofanairplane,thecityofLasVegasappearslikeavastoasisinthemiddleofthedrabMojavedesert.Theemeraldgreenofgolfcoursescontrastswiththeflashesofaquafromthousandsofbackyardpoolsandthedeeperblueofscatteredartificiallakesandponds.Onalmostanydayinthestreetsbelow,youcanseewaterflowingalongthecurbsandintothegutters,runofffromsprinkledlawnsofKentuckybluegrassanddustydrivewaysbeinghosedclean.Fountainsandwaterfallsadornnotonlythecity’scasinos,butalsoitsstripmalls,businessparks,andapartmentcomplexes,whichbearnamessuchas“LakewoodCove,”“FlamingoBay,”and“HarborIsland.”Inanaverageyear,onlyfourinchesofrainfallhere,yetLasVegansusemorewaterperpersonthanresidentsofanyothermajorcityinthecoun-try.Theypourmostofitonthegroundaroundtheirhomes,tryingtoforcegreeneryoutofthealkalinedesertsoil.Inthiscityofillusions,thesenseofabundantwaterisperhapsthebiggestmirageofall.Barringamajordrought,LasVegas’sexistingwatersupplywillcarryitthroughtheyear2007.Aseriesofinterimmeasuresshouldprovideenoughwaterforcontinuedgrowththroughtheyear2025,whenthepopulationisprojectedtoreach2.3million.Andafter2025?Nooneknowsexactly,butLasVegansarefondofrecit-ingthemaxim“IntheWest,waterrunsuphilltowardpowerandmoney.”133b cJennaWardInkeepingwiththecity’sreputationforfree-flowingcashandovernightfortunes,itsinhabitantsdisplayasereneconfidencethatifallelsefails,theywillsimplybuythewatertheyneedtomaintaintheirdesertmiracle.ButthereisanotheroldsayingintheWest:“Youcantakemywife,butyoucan’ttakemywater.”InthearidandrapidlygrowingsouthwesternUnitedStates,waterrightsareprecious,andnotalwaysforsale.Anymajorchangeininterstatewaterallocationswouldnotonlyconcernthebuyerandseller,butwouldalsobescrutinizedbysevenquarrelsome,liti-gation-pronewesternstatesaswellastheMexicanandUnitedStatesgov-ernments.Tostrikeadeal,LasVegasmayfindthat,inadditiontomoney,itwillneedagoodhelpingofthecity’ssecond-most-prizedcivicvalue:luck.Meanwhile,anestimatedthousandormorenewresidentsmovetoGreaterLasVegaseachweek.Thismetropolitanareaisgrowingfasterthananyotherinthecountry,andwaterofficialsaredeterminednottobetheonestospoilthepartybycallingahalttoexpansion.Still,thebasicquestionremains:whatwillhappenin2025,whenthechildrenofthesetransplantsneedmorewaterthanthecitycansupply?DavidDonnelly,deputygeneralmanageroftheSouthernNevadaWaterAuthority,says(withasmile),“Idon’tcare.Iwon’tbehere.”■ ■ ■Despiteappearancestothecontrary,LasVegaswasnotbuiltinthemiddleofnowhere.Thecityexistswhereitdoesforonesimplereason:water.ThehistoryofwaterinLasVegasisinmanywaysindistinguishablefromthehistoryofthecityitself,andthetensionsbetweenthealternatingavailabil-ityandscarcityofthislife-givingresourceformadiscerniblepattern.“LasVegas”isSpanishforTheMeadows.Onceuponatime,theLasVegasValleywasfilledwithmesquitetrees,willows,cottonwoods,andsaltgrass,allirrigatedbythreeartesiansprings,theBig,theLittle,andtheMiddle.Beforesettlersarrived,PaiuteIndiansspenttheirwintersbythesewarm,clearwaters.Nooneknowswhowasthefirstoutsidertostumbleacrossthevalley,butbythe1830s,ithadbecomeavitalreststoponanoth-erwisewaterlesslegoftheOldSpanishTrailthatledfromSantaFetoLosAngeles.In1855,BrighamYoungsentthirtyMormonmissionariestosettleLasVegas.AlthoughtheearlyMormonsweremastersofirrigationfarming,themissionarieshadtostruggletoekecropsoutofthepoordesertsoil,134b cWaterfortheDesertMiracleandwererecalledtoSaltLakeCitytwoyearslater.Ahandfulofotherset-tlersfollowed;butitwastheSanPedro,LosAngelesandSaltLakeRail-roadthatputLasVegasonthemap.In1905,WilliamClark(asin“ClarkCounty”),arailroadmagnateandU.S.senatorfromMontana,choseLasVegasasadivisionpointontherailroadlinebecauseitofferedwaterforthesteamtrainsandpassengers,andwaslocatedatanidealdistancetochangecrewsandrefuel.Ascruffylittlecompanytownwasformed.Therailroad-ownedLasVegasLandandWaterCompanycontrolledthewaterfromthethreeartesiansprings.Butnewresidentssoondiscov-eredthatiftheydrilleddownabout300feet,theytoocouldstrikewater.Fromitsearliestdays,LasVegaswasacityofwatergluttons.Home-ownersdrilledhundredsofprivatewellsthroughoutthevalley,someofwhich“spewedforththousandsofgallonsofwaterperminute,whichflowedintopondsorgullies,withnousewhateverbeingmadeofthewater,”asFlorenceJonesandJohnCahlanwroteintheirbookWater:AHistoryofLasVegas(1975).Inthedecadestocome,“Itwascommonprac-ticeforfamiliesgoingtoMt.Charlestonforaweekend,toescapetheblazingheatoftheValley,toleavesprinklersrunningintheirfrontandbackyardsuntiltheyreturned.”Noonesawanythingwrongwiththis,theauthorssay:“Itwasthegen-erallyacceptedtheorythatLasVegaswassittingontopofavastlakeofundergroundwaterwhichcouldbetappedwithimpunityforyearswithnodangerofdiminishingthesupply.”Inanindirectway,waterwasresponsiblefortransformingthesleepyrailroadtownintoaworld-famouslocation.In1928,PresidentCalvinCoolidgesignedlegislationauthorizingthebuildingoftheBoulder(nowHoover)Dam,andtheconstructionofthisspectacularstructure,whichspanstheColoradoRiverfortymilesfromLasVegas,captivatedthenationinthemidstoftheGreatDepression.In1935,morethan250,000visitorspassedthroughLasVegasenroutetothedamandLakeMead,thevastreservoircreatedbytheproject.ThetownofBoulderCitywasbuilttohousethedamworkers,andLasVegasjoinedintheboom.Precedingconstructionofthedam,afatefulagreementcalledtheColoradoRiverCompactdivideduptheriver’swateramongsevenstatesandMexico.TheUnitedStates’shareofthewaterwassplitamongfourupper-basinstates,Colorado,Wyoming,NewMexico,andUtah;andthreelower-basinstates,Arizona,Nevada,andCalifornia.Eachbasinisentitledto7.5millionacre-feetofriverwaterannually;anacre-foot,or326,000gallons,isgenerallyregardedasenoughwatertosupplytwofam-iliesforayear.135b cJennaWardNevadawasthefirststatetoapprovethecompact,ratifyingtheagree-mentin1922.Atthetime,itwasthoughtquiteacoupthatthenegotiatorshadsecured300,000acrefeetforthestate,whichthenhadapopulationoflessthan100,000.Bycontrast,California,whichhad3.4millionpeoplein1920,wasallocated4.4millionacrefeet,andArizona2.85million.Thedivisionofwaterwasbasedonagriculturalpotentialratherthanpopulation,andnoteventheMormonscouldfarmNevada.Threehun-dredthousandacrefeetseemedmorethanadequate.Who,in1922,couldhavepredictedair-conditioning,freeways,andgolfcourses,letalonethegamblingandresortempirescreatedbymenlikeHowardHughes,KirkKerkorian,BillBennett,andSteveWynn?Today,thestate’sallocationisanoose,forthenumbersarestillbinding.Foryears,NevadausednoneofitsColoradoRiverallocation;LasVegasreliedonitsspringsandwells.In1944,however,thestateengineerwarnedtheLasVegasChamberofCommercethatthecitywasrunningoutofwater,andthatunlesstheyfoundanewsource,growthwouldhavetostop—awarningthecityishearingagain,morethanhalfacenturylater.■ ■ ■“Thissitewasoriginallythemajorsourceofwaterforthevalley.Thisiswhereitstarted,”saidhydrologistErinCole,gesturingtowardadesolatewellfieldnowborderedbyInterstate15andHighway95.“Therewerethreemajorspringsinthisarea.Someflowedthreetofourthousandgal-lonsaminute.Theyusedtoflow,butwepumpedthemtoomuch.”Nowthegroundispowder-dry,andtheoldcreekbedstilllitteredwithtrunksandbranchesoftreesthatdiedoncethewaterwasgone.Sincethetownwasformed,in1904,theundergroundwatertablehasdroppedatotaloftwohundredfeet.Withsomuchwaterpumpedout,theearthitselfhassubsided,asifdeflated.Neartheformercreekbed,oldwellheadsthatwereonceatgroundlevelnowjutfivefeetintotheair.Onthenorthsideoftown,foundationsofhouseshavecrackedandsplitasthegroundhassunkaroundthem.WaterthattookcenturiestoaccumulatewouldhavedisappearedinahandfulofyearsifLasVegashadnotturnedtoanewsourcejustoverthehorizon:theColoradoRiver.LasVegasfirstbegantogetwaterfromLakeMeadin1955,usingpipelinesthatbelongedtoBMI(BasicMaterialsInc.,originallyBasicMagnesium),amajorWorldWarIIdefensecontractorbasedinHen-derson,elevenmilessouthofLasVegas.Thecity’sownplant,theA.M.SmithWaterTreatmentFacility,begandeliveringwaterfromLake136b cWaterfortheDesertMiracleMeadtothecityinJuneof1971.WaterinLasVegaswasonceagainplentiful.Today,85percentofLasVegas’swatercomesfromtheColoradoRiver.Inthesummermonths,whendemandsoars,thetownusesgroundwatertoaugmentthesupply.Waterisstillbeingpumpedoutoftheaquiferfasterthanitcanbereplenished,buttherateoftheoverdrafthasslowed.Thelocationofthecity’streatmentplantwascontroversialatthetimeitwasbuilt,anditstillis:thecity’sdrinkingwaterisdrawnjustsix-and-a-halfmilesdownstreamfromtheplacewhereitstreatedsewageisdumpedintoLakeMead.Oneoftheplant’sfirstcritics,HowardHughes,thereclusivelandbaronandhotelowner,foundthisarrangementunpalatable,andhebeggedNevadaGovernorPaulLaxalttostoptheproject.InanundatedmemotohisaideRobertMaheu,Hugheswrote,“Thiswatersystemwillcomprisetheonlywatersystemintheworldwheretheoutletofthesewagedisposalplant,plustonsofrawsewage,willflowintoasmall,stag-nantpoolofwaterandthenpourrightbackoutagainwithascreentoremovetheturds.“Itisnotsomuchthetechnicalpurityorimpurity,itistherevoltingvomitus,unattractivenessofthewholething.ItissortoflikeservinganexpensivecutofNewYorkcutsteakinoneofourshowroomsonabeauti-fulplate.Insteadofasliceofparsleyandlemonandtrimmings,insteadofthisthereisasmallpileofshit.Nowmaybetechnicallytheshitdoesn’ttouchthesteak,buthowmuchwillthepatronenjoyeatingthatsteak?”Althoughanotedgermfreak,Hughesdidhaveapoint.Theissuehasbecomemorepressing,forasthecityhasgrown,thevolumeofwastewaterdischargedintothelakehasreachedNiagaraproportions.“Astheflowtothelakeincreases,itgetsharderforthelaketoabsorb,”saidPhilSanders,theseniorwastewatertreatmentplantoperatorattheClarkCountySanitationDistrict.Theplantdischargesanaverageof68to69milliongallonsoftreatedsewageaday—andevenmoreonweekends,whentens,sometimeshundredsofthousandsoftouristsareintownandanextraordinarynumberoftoiletsareflushed.Whenthewastewaterleavestheplant,itis“prettyclear-looking,”saidSanders,withnomorethanfiveorsixpartspermillionofsuspendedsolids,andonlytraceamountsofammonia,phosphates,andnitrates—allwellwithinfederalguidelines.ButinLakeMead,aplumeofpollutionisoftenvisible,spreadingoutfromthepointwheretheLasVegasWash,astheriverofthecity’swasteiscalled,entersLasVegasBay.Theplumeismadeofpotentiallytoxicblue-greenalgae,whichthrivesonnutrientsfoundinsewage,althoughwaterofficialssaynoonehasproventhatthedischargecreatestheplume.137b cJennaWardTodate,theplumehasnotcausedanyscientificallydocumentedprob-lems,saysDr.RichardFrench,ahydrologicengineerwiththeDesertResearchInstituteinLasVegas.“However,”headded,“Therehavebeenrumorsinthecommunity,ofscubadiversgettingearinfectionsandthingslikethatoutofthewater;sothereisaproblem.”Inthewaterbusiness,thereisaslogan:thesolutiontopollutionisdilu-tion.YetdespiteLakeMead’senormoussize,theconceptisnotquiteapplicablehere.“IftherewassomewaytoputthewastewaterbackinBoulderBasin(inthemiddleofthelake),itwouldbeinsignificantcom-paredtothevolume,”saidDr.French.“Therealproblemisthatweputthewaterbackinthislimitedbody,[LasVegasBay].”ThepathofthewastewaterasitflowsdowntowardSaddleIsland,wherethedrinkingwateristakenin,remainsunexamined.“Nobodyhaseverreallywantedtotakealookatit,”saidDr.French.“Ithinktheyareafraidofwhattheanswersmightbe.”DavidDonnellyoftheSouthernNevadaWaterAuthority(SNWA)findssuchconcernsunnecessarilyalarmist.“Peoplearemakingawholelotmoreoftheplumeissuethantheyshouldbe,Ithink,”hesaid.“Theplumeistwo-and-a-halfmilesnorthoftheintake.“Thepeoplewhowanttoputascareintootherpeoplearealwayssay-ingthingslike‘LasVegashasthirtymillionvisitorsayear,andintheirbowelsareeveryparasiteanddiseaseknowntoman,andit’sallgettingflusheddownintothewatersupply.’Butthat’sexactlywhathappensintheOhioRiver,theMississippiRiver,everyriversystemintheUnitedStates.”Byearly1997,naggingconcernsaboutwaterqualityhadbecomestrongenoughfortheEnvironmentalProtectionAgencytoestablishaLakeMeadWaterQualityForum,bringingtogetherforthefirsttimehigh-levelwaterandsewageofficials,theircounterpartsfromParksandRecre-ationandFishandGame,andrepresentativesfromthecity,county,andstategovernments.Theimpetuswasa1996U.S.GeologicalSurveystudyofendocrinedisruptionofcarpinLakeMead:forsomereason,themalecarpwereturningintofemales.Atwo-year-long,federally-funded,half-million-dollarstudybegunin1999istryingtofigureoutwhy.“Ifthewaterisfeminizingthefish,”saidDr.JamesDeacon,aprofessorofenvironmentalstudiesattheUniversityofNevadaatLasVegas,“thereisthepossibilitythatitcouldbefeminizingothercreaturesthatdrinkthewater…includingGuessWho?”TheColoradoisalargeandveryheavilyusedriver,bothupstreamanddownstreamfromLasVegas,sodeterminingtheeffectofthecity’sdis-chargeonthesystemisnotasimpletask.Butthemostdevastatingblow138b cWaterfortheDesertMiracletoLasVegas’swatersupplytodaywouldbetohaltorevenscalebacktheamountofwastewaterthecityisallowedtodischarge.ThereasonisthatLasVegashasfoundasurprisingloopholeintheColoradoRiverCompact,whichallowsthecitytogetmorewaterfromtheriverbyswappingwastewaterforfreshwater.Underanarrangementknownas“return-flowcredits,”foreverygallonoftreatedsewagethecitydumpsbackinthelake,itisallowedtotakeoutanadditionalgallonoffreshwater.In1996,LasVegaspumpedout356,000acre-feetfromtheColorado,saidSusanSelby,aSNWAresourceanalyst;obviously,thisexceededtheirmandatedlimitof300,000.Butthecityalsoreturned131,000acre-feetofwastewatertoLakeMead.Underthereturn-flowarrangement,thisreduceditsofficialdrawofColoradoRiverwaterto225,000acre-feet.BecauseLasVegasisreturningwater(albeitwastewater)backtotheriver,itisnotreducingtheoverallquantityoftheflow;onlythequalityisaffected.ThisarrangementisnotpopularwithdownstreamuserLosAngeles,whichgetsone-thirdofitsfreshwaterfromtheColorado.Return-flowcreditscreateapowerfulincentiveforLasVegastodumpasmuchwastewaterbackintothelakeaspossible.Otherdesertcommu-nities,likePhoenixandTucson,oftenusewastewaterforirrigation,espe-ciallyongolfcourses,butLasVegashasshownonlyminimalinterestinfollowingtheirexample.Inits1997generalplan,theSNWAdecreedthatnomorethan21,800acre-feetofwastewatershouldeverbewithheldforirrigationinthevalley.Intheyear2000,asmallwaste-treatmentplantisslatedtoopenonWestCheyenneBoulevard;theplantisbeingpaidforentirelybylocalgolfcourseowners,whohaveagreedtofinancethe$45millionprojectinreturnfortheonemilliongallonsofwastewateritwillgeneratedaily.Butfornow,almostallthewaterusedinthevalleyispotable,andoffi-cialssaythisisonereasonper-capitauseamongresidentsappearssohigh.In1996,LasVegascitizensusedanaverageof319gallonsperday.InTuc-son,theaveragecitizenused155,inSantaFe,160,andinPhoenix250.Thecity’swell-publicizedgolfcourseboomcannotaloneexplainthedisparity:in1997,GreaterLasVegashadthirty-pluscourses;metropolitanPhoenixhadsixtimesasmany.■ ■ ■PeopleinvolvedwithwaterinLasVegas,whetherasofficialsorconcernedcitizens,displayaremarkablysimilarattitudewhendiscussingthetown’s139b cJennaWardnumber-oneindustry:theyconsistentlyblametouristsforskewingtheper-capitaconsumptionfigureswhilepraisingthecasinosasresponsibleusers.Theapparentcontradictionneverseemstoregister.“Theper-capitauseisslantedbecauseoftherecreationbasewehave,”saysSueBaker,presidentofthecitizens’groupAquaVision,whichpro-motesconservation.But,sheadded,“Peopleblastthecasinoindustryastheonesusingupallthewater,andthey’renotgettingafairshake.”JudyLaws,aClarkCountywater-qualityandnatural-resourceplanner,complainsthattheper-capitanumbersreflectalackof“understandingofourlocalcommunity.Tourismisournumber-oneindustryhere….Wehavetwohundredfiftyorthreehundredthousandpeoplecomingforaweekend.That’snotsomethingthatalotofcommunitiesface.”YetshealsohadnothingbutpraiseforSteveWynn,creatoroftheMirageandTreasureIslandcasino-hotels.“He’sveryproactive.Whatlookslikearealwasteofwateractuallyisnot.”Wynnbuilthisowntreatmentplanttoreclaimhiscasinos’wastewater,andthusdeflectsallcriticismofhislavishwaterdisplays.BoththewatervolcanoattheMirageandthemockpirate-shipbattleontheminiaturelakeatTreasureIslandusegraywater,notpotable.AccordingtotheSNWA’sbreakdownofwaterusage,hotelsaccountforonly8percentofthecity’sconsumption.Furthermore,whentouristsusewater,virtuallyallofitrunsdownthesink,thebathtub,andthetoiletandbackintoLakeMeadasareturn-flowcredit.Fromthewaterdistrict’spointofview,it’salmostasifthiswaterwasneverusedatall.Butwhenresidentsusewatertosprinkletheirlawnsorwashtheircars,itsoaksintothegroundandnevermakesitbacktotheriver.Residentsconsume64percentofthewaterinLasVegas,andintheblazingsum-mers,80percentofthatwaterisusedoutdoors.Fromthedistrict’spointofview,thiswaterisalmostatotalloss;byitsestimate,atleasthalfthewaterusedoutdoorsiswasted.“Theamountofwaterthatgoestowardwateringthousandsoflawns,that’salotmorewaterthanthecasinosuse,”saidenvironmentalconsul-tantKurtGobel.AlthoughLasVegansnolongerleavetheirsprinklersrunningfortheweekend,thepopulaceisstillguiltyofchronicoverwatering.IfthereisblametobelaidforLasVegas’sbloatedwaterconsumption,itbelongsatthefeetofresidents,nottourists.Themostcommonexplanationforthehighresidentialuseisthathomesicknewresidentstransplantedfromother,lessaridregionsaretryingtorecreatethelushsurroundingstheyleftbehind.“We’reattractingpeopleherefromotherplaces,i.e.,theMid-westandtheEast,”saidMaryManning,whowritesaboutwaterforthe140b cWaterfortheDesertMiracleLasVegasSun.“Theywantitgreenhere.”ButTucsonandPhoenixalsoattractpeoplefromtheMidwestandtheEast,andnewcomerstheredonotfeelcompelledtoimposetheaestheticofawetterclime.SomethingisdifferentaboutLasVegas.“Thisisacityofexcess,itreallyis,”saidCarolJansen,whomovedtoLasVegasfromAlbuquerqueandnowteachesaclassonwateratUNLV.“Nothingisdoneinmoderationhere.”SomeresidentsspeakasifthehedonismoftheStriphaspervadedtheentiretown.“LasVegasissuchamaterialplace.It’sallaboutpleasure.Waterconservationdoesn’tseemimportanthere,”saidconsultantGobel,whohaslivedinLasVegasfortwelveyears.“Thementalityisthatthedesertistheabnormal,andatemperate,humid,rainyclimateisthenorm.”Anotherwordforthismentalitymightbedenial,amassreluctancetoacknowledgethattheLasVegasValleyisoneofmostaridspotsontheplanet.“Weliveinadesert,andthedesertisnotgoingtoadapttous,”saidAllieSmith,theUNLVCampusGreencoordinator.“We’regoingtohavetoadapttothedesert.”Still,thereissomethingviscerallysatisfyingabouttryingtoturnthedesertgreen,especiallyadesertasdustyandbarrenastheMojave.Amonochromedirtybeige,itlacksthesubtleeleganceandstrikingplantlifeofthehighSonoranDesertthatsurroundswater-conservationrolemodelTucson.InTucson,alushrainforest-stylefrontyardlookstacky;inLasVegas,itisarelieffromthestarknessoftheMojave.Persuadingresidentstosurroundtheirhouseswith“xeriscapes”—yardscomposedofnativeplantsthatneedlittlewater—hasbeenatoughsellinLasVegas.Notsolongago,therewereevenordinancesonthebooksrequiringpeopletoplantlawnsintheirfrontandbackyards,saysSueBakerofAquaVision.TheSNWAhastheformidabletaskoftryingtochangehabitsthatdatebacktotheveryinceptionofLasVegas,andtheirextensivecampaignpromotingconservationisgraduallyproducingsomeresults:since1990,per-capitawaterconsumptionhasdropped11percent.Thegoalistoreduceitanadditional14percentbytheyear2000.“Wearetryingtoinstillthisconservationethicintoourcustomers,andit’sbeginningtoreallyshow,”saidtheSNWA’sDonnelly.“Wegotintoitlateandweshouldapologizeforthat,butreallydon’thaveawholelottoapologizeforanymorebecausewearedoingeverythingeveryoneelseisdoingandmore.”BetweenMayandOctober,itisillegaltowaterlawnsandgardensbetweennoonand7PM,andresidentscanbefinedupto$1,000forwast-141b cJennaWardingwater.Low-flowshowerheadsareavailablefreeofcharge,andtheSNWAoffersacash-for-grassrebatetohomeownerswhoconvertlawnsintoxeriscapes.ThewaterdistrictalsofundstheDesertDemonstrationGardens,whichfeaturemodelyardsofwater-efficientplantsandastaffoflandscapeexpertstohelpresidentsdesigntheirownxeriscapes.“Tenyearsago,fifteenyearsago,youwouldnothaveboughtahousethathaddesertlandscape,”saidDonnelly.“Nowpeoplearesaying,‘Idon’twantgrass.Ilovethedesertlook.’”Butdespiteallthegoodintentionsandremindersto“BeWaterSmart,”thewaterdistricthasnotimplementedthesinglebiggestincentivetogetpeopletoconserve:cost.WaterratesinLasVegasareamongthelowestintheWest.“Whyisthewaterbillsounconscionablylow?”askedBenethMorrow,whomovedtoLasVegasfromOhioin1996.“We’veneverlivedanywherewhereitwassolow.”InOhio,shesaid,sheandherhusbandpaidfivetimesasmuchforwater.Othertransplantsexpressedsimilarfeelings.“Itseemstomeourcostofwaterisaboutone-tenthofwhatitshouldbe,”saidT.L.Wallace,aretiredairlinepilotfromWisconsinwhomovedtoLasVegasin1988.LasVegashasafour-tierratestructure.Peoplewhousetheleastwaterarerewardedbythelowestrate—98centsper1,000gallons.Thebiggestusersarechargedmore—$2.27per1,000gallons,stillabargaincomparedtomanyothercities.“Frankly,thecommunityiswastefulbecausethewaterischeap,”saidDr.FrenchoftheDesertResearchInstitute.“Thereoughttobeareason-ablepriceonacertainamountofwatersoeverybodycanmeettheirbasicneeds.Butyouknow,Ihaveafifty-foot-longswimmingpooland…Ihavesomegrassinthefront.IfIwantthosethings,Ioughttopayforthem.”Donnellyacknowledgedthathigherrateswouldprobablyreducecon-sumption.But,ashepointedout,“Wecanonlychargeourcostsasapub-licagency.Wecan’tmakemoney.”Inthefuture,rateswillrise,inparttopayforthedistrict’s“secondstraw”nowunderconstruction,asystemofpipesandpumpsdesignedtodrawadditionalwaterfromLakeMead.Muchofthecostofthisandotherwatersupplyimprovements,however,isscheduledtobepaidfromaquarter-centincreaseinthesalestaxdesignedtoraise$2.3billion,approvedbyClarkCountyvotersin1998.ThesecondstrawrepresentsagamblebythewaterdistrictthattheywilleventuallybeabletodrawmorewaterfromtheColoradoRiver.Althoughthewaterdistrictneedstheadditionalstrawtouse100percentofitscurrentriverallocation,thesystemhasbeendesignedwiththecapacitytoprocessmorewaterthanNevadaiscurrentlyallowedtotake142b cWaterfortheDesertMiracleunderthe1922compact.Inbuildingthestraw,“we’rebettingwe’llbeabletorenegotiatetherivercompact,”saidJeffHarris,headoflong-rangeplanningforClarkCounty.ButtheimageofLasVegansaswaterwasterspresentsaconsiderableobstacletosecuringmorewater.“NoneoftheotherstatesisgoingtofeelsorryforNevada,specificallyLasVegas,andourshortageofwater,ifwearen’tshowinganefforttoconservewiththeresourceswehave,”saysBakerofAquaVision.“Untilweshowthatweareasleanandmeanandefficientaswepossiblycan,whoisgoingtowanttohelpustrytosecurenewwaterrights?”Inallfairness,itmustbesaidthat,despiteLasVegans’predilectionforwater-intensivelandscaping,theamountofwatertheywasteisminusculecomparedtowhatCaliforniadoeswithitsvastlylargershareofColoradoRiverwater.“Thisissomethingthathasalwayskindofirritatedmeaboutpeopleandthewaytheyviewwater,”saidDonnelly.“Peoplewilldrivesmilesandmiles,pastthousandsofacresofcottonandSavannahgrassinthefamilycarcomingtoLasVegasforavacation,chit-chatandneverthinkany-thingaboutit.ThentheypullupinfrontoftheMirageHotel,theyseethefountain,andtheysay‘Ohlord,whatahugewasteofwater.’“AllthosecottonfieldsuseamilliontimesmorewaterthantheMirageeveruses…it’sjustanoutrageous,wastefulabuseofwatertogrowcottoninthemiddleofthedesert.It’sjustmind-boggling.”ButCaliforniahasafifty-two-memberCongressionaldelegationandfifty-fourelectoralvotes.Whetherornotfarmersshouldbegrowingriceandcotton,thestatehasnoincentivetotransferwaterfromthemtoLasVegas,andNevadalacksthepoliticalleveragetoforcetheissue.Fordecades,Californiahasconsistentlyexceededits4.4-million-acre-feetallocationofriverwater,mainlybecauseNevadaandArizonahavetraditionallynotusedtheirfullallotments;Californiahasclaimedtheirleftovers.Butthisischanging.Nevadaisnowdeterminedtoholdontoitsentire300,000-acre-feetallocationandstoretheunusedportionunder-ground,inanarrangementknownaswaterbanking.Emptiedbythegroundwaterminingsystemofthepast,waterisinjectedbackintotheaquifertobeextractedasneededinthefuture.“That’swhytheprogramwasstarted,sowecouldtakeadvantageofthewaterandsaveforthefuture,”saidSNWAhydrologistCole.“Otherwiseit’lljustrundownriverandCaliforniawilluseit.”Waterofficialsestimatetheycanstorebetween800,000to1,000,000acre-feetintheLasVegasBasin,andhavealreadyinjected120,000.Theywillstarttappingintothiswaterintheyear2007,atwhichpointtheyexpect143b cJennaWardtheriverwillnolongercovertheirneeds.Inaddition,bothLasVegasandLosAngeleshavemadedealswithArizonatobankwaterundergroundnearPhoenix.InDecember1997,U.S.InteriorSecretaryBruceBabbittapprovedtheprincipleofinterstatewaterbanking;Nevadanowplanstostoreatleast100,000acre-feetofitssurpluseachyearinArizona,todrawon(atanesti-matedcostof$300peracre-foot)intimesofneed—aschemethatshouldseethemthroughtheyear2030.ThenewnationalwaterpoliciesarealsoaimedatforcingCaliforniatolivewithinitsallotment.AslongasArizonadoesnotuseallofits2.8millionacre-feet,LasVegashastherighttoforceCaliforniatosharethelower-basinsurplus.Thebigproblemwillbeginwhenthereisnosurplustoshare.AccordingtoMarcReisner,authorofCadillacDesert,theoriginalsurveyorsbehindthe1922compactoverestimatedthetotalflowoftheColorado:althoughthecompactapportions17.5millionacre-feet,theactualflowisnowherenearthatamount.Asthelowerbasin,ledbyLasVegas,beginstodemanditsfullalloca-tion,thestageisbeingsetforafull-scalewaterwar.Upper-basinstatesarefearfulthatthelowerbasinwillstarttocomeaftertheirwater,andtheantagonismisalreadystartingtoshow.LasVegashasbeentalkingtoUtahaboutleasingsurplus-waterrights,butColoradohasthreatenedtofilesuitoveranyproposedtransfer.Thelasttimetwostates(ArizonaandCalifornia)disputedtherivercompact,thesuittookthirty-yearstosettleandwoundupintheU.S.SupremeCourt.ButnowNevadahasjoinedforceswithfiveotherstates—Arizona,Colorado,NewMexico,Utah,andWyoming—inthehopeofcounterbal-ancingthearrogantpoliticalpowerofCalifornia,themostprofligatewaterwasterofthemall.Inits1997annualplan,theSNWAdescribesanotherschemeforafuturewatersupply,onethatisalsolikelytoendupincourt.Thecityhaswaterrightsto113,000acre-feetoftheVirginRiver,whichoriginatesinUtahandflowsthroughthenorthwesterncornerofArizonaintoNevada,whereitjoinstheColoradoRiver.IfLasVegasweretodamtheriverbeforeitreachestheColoradoandbuilda70-milepipelineacrossthedesert,itcouldusetheVirgin’swater.Theprojectwouldcostaboutabilliondollars,destroypartofabreath-takinglyscenicriver,threatenseveralendangeredspecies,andprovidewatersosaltythatitsvaluewouldbemarginal.“Environmentally,it’sthecraziestthingevertodo,”admittedDonnelly,whodescribedtheVirginRiverpipelineanddamasalow-priorityoption.Instead,theSNWAishopingtoconvincetheotherstatesthatsincetheVirginRiverflowsintotheColoradoRiveranyway,whynotavoidthe144b cWaterfortheDesertMiracledestructionandexpenseofbuildingapipeline,whichwouldonlytakethewaterwhereitgoesnaturally?LasVegaswantstousetheColoradoasasortofpretendpipeline,andisaskingtheotherstatestoletithavethe113,000acre-feetofVirginwaterinadditiontoits300,000-acre-feetallo-cation.Theconceptiscalled“wheeling,”andwhileithasacertainlogic—thewateristheirsiftheytakeitupstream,sowhynotdownstream?—someoftheotherstatesinvolvedwillalmostcertainlychallengetheproposal.ButifLasVegascontinuestogrowatanythinglikeitspresentrate,therearenotmanyotheroptions.Thelastresort,saidDonnelly,wouldbetosuckthegroundwateroutoftheadjacentruralcountiesofLincoln,Nye,andWhitePine.WhentheSNWAfiledpreliminaryclaimstodopreciselythisintheearly1990s,suchashriekofoutragearosefromranch-ersandenvironmentalistsacrossthestatethattheAuthoritybackeddown.AllLasVegasreallywants,saybureaucrats,advocates,andcitizens,istohavewatertreatedasacommodity,somethingthatcanbeboughtandsoldlikeanythingelse.Onthoseterms,LasVegas—whosemajorproduct,afterall,ismoney—wouldbeabletocompetewithanycityorfarmerintheWest,andwouldneverhavetoworryaboutwatersupply.Itseemsalmostinevitablethatsuchashiftwilleventuallyoccur.“Whenyougetanagriculturalenterprisepayingfivetotendollarsanacre-footforwater,whenacityiswillingtopayfifteenhundredtotwothousanddollarsanacre-foot,thereisadisparitytherethatwon’tlast,”saidDeaconofUNLV.Thekeyquestionis,willthecitybeabletosustainitselfonitsexistingresourcesuntilthedaywhenitcanbuyitswayoutofthepredicament?IntrueLasVegasspirit,thedeveloperswhoaredrivingtheeconomyandtheresidentswhohavemadethecitytheirhomearebettingthatsomehow,someway,thewaterwillalwaysbetheretosustaintheirdesertmiracle.145b ForSaleTHIRTYTHOUSANDHOMESAYEARLisaMoskowitz“PovertySucks.”Thesilver-foiladageispastedacrossaframedphoto-graphinBarbaraReed’sreal-estateoffice.ThepictureshowsBarbarastandingbyaswimmingpoolwithherhandsinthepocketsofablackdenimskirt.She’swearingaruffledredblouseandmatchingred-leathercowboyboots,western-style.Thewindripplesherlongblondehair,appar-entlyattwilight.Atthefrontofherwaistisaheart-shapedsterling-silverbeltbuckle.Shesmilesslightlywithoutpartingherlips.Shelooksrich.“Idon’tneedtowork.IdoitbecauseIlikeit.”Sinceshebecameareal-estateagentnineyearsago,Barbarahassoldanaverageofeightyhomeseachyearforanaverageof$3,000incommission.In1995,shewasrankedfourthinsalesandproductionamong45,000agentsaffiliatedwiththenationwideRE/MAXchain;thatyearshesoldmorethanonehundredhomesandnetted$500,000.SheisaMulti-MillionDollarProducer,aPlatinumClubmember,aHallofFamer.Shehasearned$2.3millionofthe$3millionrequiredtomakeheraLifeTimeAchiever.Sheisinthetop1percentofthealmost8,200licensedreal-estateagentsoperatinginsouthernNevada.ThereisnodateonthephotographinherleasedofficeonWestSaharaAvenue.ButwhenBarbara,knownasBarbie,returnsfromlunchwearinganoversizedpinkcottonT-shirtandstretchpants,withagoldpony-tailed147b cLisaMoskowitzBarbieDollheadpendantswingingfromherneckandherred-polishedtoenailsspreadinawidearcacrossherblackpatent-leatherthongs,it’sevidentthatitwassnappedseveralyears(andseveralpounds)ago.Asim-ilarglamourshotgracesBarbara’sbusinesscards,FORSALEsigns,andsta-tionery,aswellasthepagesoflocalreal-estatebooklets,wipeboards,magnets,andothermarketinggiveawaysscatteredaroundtheoffice.Thatpicture,oozingsweetperfume,withBarbara’seyesheavywithblueeye-linerandherglossylipsinaslightpout,hasbeengoodforBarbaraReedandgoodforherbusiness.Sheisintherighttownattherighttime.ForthisisLasVegas,thenever-endingboomtownwheretheAmericanDreamliveslarge:inparticular,thedreamofholdingajobandowningyourownhome.Hundredsofpeoplefloodthisdeserttowndailytoparkcars,scrubtoiletbowls,dealcards,andbuildhousesonfoundationsoffantasy.Mostofthemmaketheirhomeswellbeyondthecentral(yetnon-urban)spanofbright,blinkinghoteltowersthatdefinesLasVegasintheworld’simagination.Whentheycanaffordto,theymigratetostuccohousespaintedseashellpinkanddesertecru,toppedoffwithSpanish-tileroofs,onroadsnamedSweetwaterPlace,ShorecrestDrive,andSnorkelCircle.Huddledaroundnewlypavedcul-de-sacs,thesehomesformmas-ter-plannedcommunities(MPCs)thatseemtoriseandexpandacrossthedesertovernight.Othersliveonhorseranchesoraroundexclusivegolfcoursesandsyntheticlakes,surroundedbyguardedgates.Theyliveinrowafterrowafterrowofidenticalthree-bedroomadobehomes,orinmobile-homeparksforretirees,orinpastelapartmentcomplexesoverlookingblueswimmingpoolsfullofwell-tannedsinglesworkingthenightshift.Thosewhocannotaffordhomesliketheseliveinpublichousing.Thosewhocan’tgetintopublichousingliveonthestreets.Laidbetweenthehousingtractsareretailstripsofgasstationsandmovietheaters,7-11sandCircleKs,SavondrugstoresandAlbertson’sgro-ceries.Inthesesun-bakedmalls,hairsalonsadjoinlawofficesnexttoU.S.Marinerecruitingstationsacrossfromcardealerships.TraditionalMainStreetsdon’texist;thefamiliarcornerstoreandpostoffice,policestationandmiddleschoolofasmalltownarenowhereinsight.Thereisnobusi-ness-districtbustle,andfewofthestreet-frontboutiquesorqualityrestau-rantsoneexpectsinacityofamillionpeople.Thereisnotraditionaldowntown.Eachstripmallisfrontedbyitsownparkinglot,andeachparkinglotisfrontedbyaboulevardthateventuallymeetsthedesert,trail-ingoffintoaclusterofroad-buildingequipmentandtruncatedblacktop.LasVegasmaylooklikeanyothersuburbansprawl;butheretherewasneverevenamemoryofanythingurban.Thecitybeganlifein1905,withthesaleoflotsofrailroad-ownedlandsurroundingwhatisnowcalled148b cForSaleDowntown;butthisareahasnotbeenacitycenterfordecades,andbetraysnosignofitsorigintoday.TransplantedarchitectsimposeonLasVegasValleythesamepatternsoffast-growthsubdivisionstheylearnedinsouthernCaliforniaandArizona.Real-estateinvestorsslotretailcentersintothepocketsofspacebetweenhousingdevelopmentsandscatterpostoffices,banks,grocerystores,drugstores,andchurchesinsidethemalls;theresultisahundredormorenondescriptstreetscapesemergingfromthedesertinthesameunplanned,entrepreneurialwaythattheStriptookshape.Themajordifferenceisthatthepeoplewholiveheredon’tcheckoutoftheirroomswhentheirvacationsareover.WelcometoBarbaraCountry.■ ■ ■ThelatesthousingboominLasVegaswaskickedoffinthelate1980s,fueledbyasteadymigrationofTexans,Arizonans,andmidwesterners,butaboveallsouthernCalifornians.Thepilgrimageacrossstatelinesbeganwithretireesandothersmovingtoescapecrime,pollution,andever-increasingtrafficjams.Whenreal-estatepricesinsouthernCaliforniahitall-timehighs,manypeoplesoldtheirhomesthereformajorcapitalgains,andmovedtoLasVegaswithmoneytospare.RichardLee,presidentofFirstAmericanTitleinLasVegas,saysthatapproximately62percentofallnewhomessoldin1989and1990werepur-chasedbyformerCaliforniaresidents.“Apersonwhoboughtahouseyearsagofor$30,000couldsellitfor$200,000,movetoLasVegas,buyanewhousewithhalfthemoney,andputtherestinthebank,”saysLee.“ThentheCaliforniamarketchanged,andpeoplecouldn’tsell.”Withthebeginningofanationwiderecessionin1991,thefloodofCal-iforniaresidentssloweddowntoasteadystream;but,accordingtoLee,theystillaccountedforabout35percentofnew-homebuyersinLasVegasbetween1991and1996.■ ■ ■SteveandLisaWeisman,bothreal-estateappraisers,movedtoLasVegasfromsouthernCaliforniain1980,beforetherush,toescapethepollutionandovercrowding.Theywerealsopartofthelargegroupofhousingpro-fessionalsattractedtotheapparentlylimitlessresidential-constructionboominLasVegas.Appraisers,architects,builders,real-estatelawyers,149b cLisaMoskowitzinspectors,surveyors:allwerepouringin.Intheseyears,LasVegaswasstillasmallcity(oralargetown)withfewurbanwoes.“Therewasnotraf-ficateightAMorfive-thirtyPM,”saysSteve.“Wecouldgetanewthree-bedroomapartmentforfourhundreddollarsamonth.”Atthetime,acomparableapartmentinLosAngeleswentfortwicethatormore.By1997,themedianmonthlymortgagepaymentinLasVegaswas$926,theaverageapartmentrental,about$647—buttheurbancost-of-livingindexhadmorethandoubledinthoseseventeenyears.Takinginfla-tionintoaccount,rentsinLasVegashaveremainedfairlysteadyevenasthecitycontinuestogrow.Thecurrentvacancyrateisunder3percent.■ ■ ■By1989,homebuilderscouldn’tkeeppacewithdemand.“Peoplelinedupforhourstogetanumberjusttotalktoareal-estateagent,”saysLisaWeisman.Intheearlynineties,resalesweresellingfasterandathigherpricesthannewhomes;buyershadbecometooimpatienttowaitthesixmonthsormoreittookforanewhometobebuilt.Broadswathsofred-tileroofssooncutthroughthevalleyineverydirection.Subdivisionswerelaidoutonsquareslikethoseofapatchworkquiltonanyacreofavailableland.Inbetween,pocketsofprivatelyheldlandandBureauofLandMan-agement(BLM)holdingsremainedclear;now,muchofthatlandisalsodeveloped.By1993,astheeffectsoftherecessionworeoff,constructionsurgedonceagain.Bytheendof1994,gamingrevenuessurpassedthe$5billionmarkandthenumberofresidentialbuildingpermitsissuedhadrisento25,000.Therapidbuildingpacealarmedsomeindustryanalysts,whofearedafall-offingrowthorevenaregionalrecession.Atthispace,theysaid,supplywouldsoonexceeddemand,andasurfeitofunsoldnewhouseswouldstandemptyinthemiddleofthedesert,astheyhadinPhoenixintheeighties.Attheveryleast,thewatersupplywouldrundry,orthelandwouldrunout.TheLasVegasmarketwasgoingtocrash.“NobodygavecredittotheLasVegaseconomy.LasVegashasamys-tiqueaboutitandalotofcontroversysurroundingit,”saysLee.“Institu-tionalinvestorsallsaiditwasaflashinthepananddidn’ttakeitseriouslybecauseitwasLasVegas.”Tosomedegree,theanalystswereright:thenumberofpeoplemovingtoLasVegasdidslackoffin1995,butnotnearlyenoughtocausealarm.Astheyhadforyears,millionsofpeoplecontinuedtovisitLasVegastobetontheslotmachines,marvelatthemagicians,andfeedoncheapbut150b cForSalefillingbuffetmeals.Casino-hotelandresidentialdeveloperscontinuedbuilding,ifataslowerratethanin1989-90;alittlemorethan$4billionayearwasstillbeinginvestedinconstruction,andconstructionandservicejobsmultiplied.Thewaterhasnotyetrunout,andthefederalgovern-ment,whichstillowns85percentofClarkCounty,continuestoswapandselllandtobigdevelopersliketheHowardHughesCorporation,DelWebb,andAmericanNevadaCorporation.■ ■ ■Today,morethanonemillionpeoplecallLasVegasValleyhome.Thatnumberisexpectedtoreachtwomillionby2007,accordingtostatedemographerDeanJudson.Severalhousing-marketresearchersbelievethecitywillreachthetwo-millionmarkevensooner.In1995,StephenBottfieldestimatedthatoneinsixpeopleshoppingforahomeinLasVegasdon’tevenliveintheareayet.In1996,permitswereissuedfor32,381newunitsofresidentialhousing.Thepermitforfigures1997and1998were30,876and32,173respectively;themediansalespriceofsingle-familyhomes,$126,000in1996,hadrisentoabout$135,000in1998—stillconsiderablycheaperthaninCalifornia’smajorurbanandsuburbanareas.Traditionally,single-familyhousinghasaccountedformostnewconstruction,butinrecentyearsthenumberofmultifamilyunits—duplexes,condominiums,andapartments—hasincreasedtoone-thirdofthetotal.ClarkCountyreportedanall-timehighinmultifamilyhousingconstructionin1996,whenbuildingpermitsissuedforapartmentsreachedtheirhighestlevelsince1989.InmetropolitanLasVegasin1996,therewerealmost200licensedbuildingcontractors,450new-homeprojectsorsubdivisionsunderdevel-opment,andmorethan1,500modelhomesonthemarketfromwhichtochoose.Buttodaycompetitionamongbuilders,anincreaseinlandprices,andadditionalbuildingfeesarepushingthemarketup.There’srelativelylittlelandlefttobuy—certainlynotofthescaleneededforanothercity-sizemaster-plannedcommunity.Butthosealreadyunderdevelopment,likeSummerlintothenorthwestandSevenHillsinGreenValleytothesoutheast,haveatleastseventotenyearsofbuildingleftinthem—whichisjustaswell,consideringthetwomillionpeoplewhoareexpectedtoneedhousingsomewhereinthevalleyby2007.■ ■ ■151b cLisaMoskowitzIt’s8:30AMonFridayandBarbaraisalreadyinamildfrenzy.Theprinterwon’tprintfastenoughforher,theMultipleListingSystem(ametropoli-tandatabaseofpropertiesforsale)keepskickingherout,andshe’sduedowntowninfifteenminutes.“Ican’tconnectordisconnect.Ican’tevenwork!”Barbarapressesforce-fullyonthecommandkeysthatshouldletherexittheprogram.Nothinghappens.Shetapsherfreshlypaintedneon-pinknailsonthedesk,thentriesagain.Frozenincyberspace,sheyellsforTomLawson,hersalesasso-ciateandmarketingmanager.“Tommy?Ican’tgetoutofMLS.Tommy?!”Shewalksovertothewhite-wickerloveseatinherofficeandfidgetswiththeedgesofaBarbieDollpillow.Shedoesn’tliketowait.Tomstridesin,hishairstillwetfromhismorningshower,thesmellsofcologneandstalecigarettesmokehoveringaroundhim.Hetakesalookatthestaticscreenandpressesthepowerbutton.Barbararollshereyes.“Icouldhavedonethat,”shesays.“Nowtheprinter.It’swaytooslow.Ineedsomethingthatcanspit‘emoutasfastasIcango.”Hereyelidsdropseductively.Ifsheweren’talreadymarriedforthethirdtime,shemightbeflirting.Tomlooksoutintothemiddledistance,somewherebeyondtheroom’spinkverticalblinds,andscratcheshisnewgoatee.“Well,wejustneedanewprinter.Afaster,newprinter,”hesaysinalispysoutherndrawl.Tom,31,wasborninTennessee.AfterservingintheAirForceatNellis,hedecidedtostayinLasVegasandtryhishandatrealestate.Hisfirstyearout,1990,heearned$125,000.Threeyearslater,hequittodesignandbuildcustomlog-cabinhomes,butafterbarelybreakingeven,hewentbacktorealestate.Hestillsellsanoccasionalcabin,butnowadayshemostlysellsLasVegashomes—andBarbaraReed.Barbarasquintshereyesandwatchesthecomputerreboot,herhandreadyonthemouse.Timeisrunningout.She’sdueatthePalaceStationHotelonEastSaharainafewminutestomeetFayeChi,aweekendgam-blerandLasVegaspropertyownerfromHawaii.FayewantstounloadarentalpropertysheboughtyearsagoinLosPrados,agatedgolfcommunity;Barbarasaysit’stheonlyaffordablegolfcommunityleftinLasVegas,withhomepricesfrom$99,000to$300,000.(PaintedDesert,incontrast,isinthemediumpricerange,withhousesfor$150,000andup;SpanishTrailandCanyonGate,$200,000andup,areconsideredexpensive.)AsBarbaragrabsasheafofprintoutslistingtherecentsellingpricesofLosPradoshomes,thephonerings.It’sLarry,heradvertisingrepatLasVegasHomesIllustrated.Themagazinewassupposedtogototheprinteranhourago.Asusual,Barbaraislatewithherorderinsert,butsheisoneofLarry’sbestcus-tomers,andsheknowshe’llwaitforhertogivehimthelayoutsheneeds.152b cForSale“Larry,backoff!”shescreechesintothereceiver.“Youhavetwoofmylistingsduplicatedinthelastissue….Iwantthelastelevenpagesandthebackcover!Youmakemeverystressedout!”Barbaraslamsdownthephone.Itringsagainrightaway.“BarbaraReed’soffice,”sheanswerssweetly.Thistimeit’saprospectivebuyer.Henoticedhernumberonahouse-shapedmagnetstucktohisrefrigerator.“Ithinkmyex-wifeputitthere.It’sbeenaroundawhile,”hesays.TheysetupanappointmentandBarbaraheadsoutthedoortohercustomblackHummer,anarmy-issuesport-utilityvehiclethatspanstheentirewidthofitsparkingspace.Rivetedtothefront-doorpanelsarepink-scriptedsigns:BarbaraReedSellstheLifestylesofLasVegas.Peo-pleturntostareatthehigh-ridingHummerasitrumblesalongI-15.Fayeiswaitingoutsidethehotelinaprismofreflectedlight.ChunkyChristianDiorsunglassesprotecthereyesfromthedesertsunthatbouncesblindinglyoffbrassandglass.Eventhepavementseemstosparkle.It’squiteastepupintotheHummer’spassengerseat,andFayemakesitwithsomeeffort.Shehasagift:aboxofchocolate-coveredmacadamianuts.Barbara’seyeswideninanticipatoryecstasy.“Ohcool,ohcool,ohcool,”shesays,andopenstheboximmediately.“Thatmeansyougottasellmyhousefastnow,”saysFaye.Shesmiles,butsheisentirelyserious.Fayewearsgoldhoopearrings,adiamond-studdedCartierwatch,andarubyanddiamondring.Thisisallthejew-elrysheeverwearsinLasVegas,shesays;toomuchmoremightattractthieves,andshepreferstopartwithhermoneybettingattheblackjacktablesorshoppinginattheFashionShowMallontheStrip.InHawaii,shelivesinahomeworth$500,000,andsheusedtoownaRolls-Royce.Shestillownsafewrentalpropertiesontheislands,butshe’sthinkingofunloadingthose,too.Thereal-estatemarketinHawaii,inflatedbyJapan-eseinvestorsintheeighties,isnowdepressed,andFayenolongerwantsherinvestmentsscattered,nordoesshewanttopayaproperty-manage-mentcompanyinLasVegas.“Wereallywanttosellasfastaswecan,”Fayesaysagain.Sheknowsthisisabuyers’marketandiswillingtobringdownheraskingprice.“Justpricethehousetomove.Fast.”Asurplusofnewhomesbuiltattheendof1996forcedbothnew-homeandresalepricesdown.OtherLosPradoshomesnearFaye’sarepricedcompetitively,andinordertosellquickly,heraskingpricewillhavetobeonlymarginallymorethantheoriginalsellingprice,sevenyearsago,of$115,760.Abrand-newhouseinasimilarnorthwestLasVegascommunitystartsataround$117,000.Atthatpricetheremightnotbeagolfcourse,butamenitieslikestate-of-the-artkitchens,sunkenbathtubs,andinter-comsystemsarenowstandard.153b cLisaMoskowitzIfFayeweren’tinsuchahurrytosell,shemightseeherpropertyappre-ciateinthenextfewmonths.TimMcKenna,presidentofPrudentialSouthwestRealty,thethird-largestrealestatecompanyinLasVegas,saysresalesareontheupswing.“Ithinkit’sjustthatresellershaven’tstartedaskingformoremoney.Buildingrestrictionsareincreasingnew-homeprices,andbuyerscangetmorefortheirmoneywitharesale,”hesays.AccordingtocityandcountyPlanningandDevelopmentoffices,permit,plan-check,andwaterfeeshaveincreasedinthelastfiveyears,andthere’snowalsoadesert-tortoisefee,chargedtobuilderstohelprelocatetheendangeredspeciestheirdevelopmentsaredisplacing.“Peoplefromoutofstatewilllookatanewhome,thenrealizethatresalesareonlythreeyearsoldandtheupgradesarealreadyin.There’sapool,thelandscape’sdone,andtheycangetitforabetterprice.”MostnewhomesaresoldtoLasVegasresidentsupgradingtobiggerhousesorintoabetterneighborhood,McKennasays.In1996,anestimated52percentofthehomessoldinmet-ropolitanLasVegaswerenew,downfrom84percentin1995and90per-centin1994.AttheentrancetoLosPrados,theguardsrecognizeBarbara’sHummerandwaveitthrough.Weekdaygolfers,manypastretirementage,parktheircartsbytheclubhouse.Astheypushthroughthedoorway,awaveofcoolairrushesoutandisquicklydissipatedbythesun.Inside,too-tanmensettleintodrinkabeertogetherbeforereturningtothecourseandthelastnineholes.Womeninpinkshortsandvisorsplaybridgeonthepatiooutback.Birdschirpandflowersbloom.Ducksflaptheirwingsinthefountainoftheman-madepond.Allissafewithintheguardedgates.Begunin1989,constructionatLosPradosisstillgoingon,despitethemanyFORSALEsignsscatteredaboutthethousand-homedevelopment.Onsomestreets,itlooksasthoughhalfthecommunityisselling.“Peoplearemovingup;there’salotofturnaroundhere.They’rebuildingthreehundredmorehomes,”Barbaraexplains.Faye’shouseisvacant.Shetakesoffhershoesbeforewalkingthroughthelinoleum-flooredentranceway.Thedecorisbland,rental-housebeige:thewalls,thefreshlyvacuumedcarpets,thekitchencountertops.Fakeivyplantstrailalongthewindowsills.YellowingbackcopiesofNorthwestView,stillintheirplasticbags,layinapilebythegaragedoor.Barbaraquicklyinspectsthegroundfloor.Oneoftheslidingdoorsfromthedin-ingroomisoffitstrack,andafewblindsarebrokeninthelivingroom.“Wewantittolookasbigandairyaswecan.Youwantenoughtoshow,butjusttherightstuff.”Thewindowsneedwashinginthelivingroom,sosheclosestheblindsjustenoughtocoverthem.Inthediningroom,shepullstheblindsopentoshowthedistancebetweenhouses.Thenext154b cForSalehouseisaboutfiftyfeetaway,andinLasVegaseveryinchofgreengrassisaluxury.Theupstairsroomsarepaintedthesameinnocuousbeige.Thethreebedroomsaremodestlysized,andthemasterbathroomissmallcomparedtothoseinthehomesbeingbuiltafewstreetsaway:grandiosemasterbedroomsarecurrentlyinvogue.Barbarapeersoutabedroomwindow.Thehousebacksuptothemainstreetandthecinderblockwallthatpro-tectsthedevelopmentfromoutsiders—notasellingpoint.“Younevernoticethesethingswhenyoubuyit,”mumblesFaye.“Itwasstrictlyaninvestment.”Backinthekitchen,Barbaraproducesasix-monthcontractandassuresFayethatshe’llsellthehousesoonerthanthat;thetrickistopriceitalittlelowerthanthoselistedaroundit,andtostayfirmonthatpriceduringnegotiations.Fayeknowsthehousehasnotappreciated,andagreestolistitfor$119,900.“InHawaii,ifyouholdontoapropertyforsevenyears,you’llmakealotofmoney,”shesayspouting.“Youreallyhaven’ttakenaloss,youjusthaven’tmadeanymoney,”saysBarbara.“You’regoingtomakeupthedifferenceatthetables.”Fayereadsthecontractcarefullyandsignshername.Meanwhile,Barbarahascom-posedacaptionforhernextadvertisingspread:“Motivatedout-of-statesellerwantssoldyesterday!Newpaint,clean.Readyforimmediatepos-session.”Fayegivesasmallsmile,thenasigh.JauntyblurbslikethisonemakeupBarbara’sbimonthlyadvertisingsectioninfreemagazineslikeLasVegasHomesIllustratedandTheRealEstateBook.Thefewsentencesareusuallyprintednexttoapictureofthehomeandincludephraseslike“DropDeadGorgeous!”,“Stop!You’veJustFoundIt!”and“Divorce!Seller’sLossIsYourGain!”Bookletadvertisingmakesuponlyafractionofthe$12,000to$15,000amonththatgoesintomarketingBarbaraReed,but,asTomsays,“Youhavetospendmoneytomakemoney”—aLasVegassloganifthereeverwasone.Barbara’sless-traditionalmarketingtechniquesrequirebigbucks.Inadditiontothe$60,000Hummer,shealsodrivesaroundinafull-size,fullyfurnishedrecreationalvehiclethat’scustom-paintedwithmuralsofwildhorsessplashingthroughcrystal-clearrivers.“Don’tLetWildHorsesKeepYouAwayFromBarbaraCountry,”readsthescriptacrossthesidesoftheBarbieMobile.Forafewmonths,Barbaratriedadvertisingonpostersaroundtown,likehotshotLasVegaslawyers:herbouncyblondemane,hazeleyes,andpink,cotton-candylipsbeckonedlife-sizefrombehindthePlexiglasoftwenty-sevenbussheltersaroundtown.AfterhehadbeenworkinginBarbara’sofficeforthreemonths,Tomhadtheposterstakendown.“Theycostseventeenhundreddollarsamonth.Theyjustweren’teffective.Theywereallaboutego,notbusiness,”hesays.155b cLisaMoskowitzBarbarasaystheposterscamedownbecausepeopleweredefacingthem,drawingmustachesandblackeyesonherface.Oneposterevendepictedherwithadrippingbulletwoundrightbetweentheeyes.“Ithurtsmyfeelingsthatsomeonewoulddothat,”shesays.Barbaraattrib-utesthevandalismtothejealousyofotherreal-estateagents.Meanwhile,TomandBarbarahaveafewothermarketingstrategiestokeepthe8,000-plusotherreal-estateagentsactiveinClarkCountychasingBarbiefromonedreamhousetoanother.Onthewaybackintotown,FayeasksBarbaratodropheroffattheFashionShowMall,acrossthestreetfromCircusCircusontheStrip.She’sgoingtocelebratethelistingwithafewnewpurchases.“Iwanttothankyouforchoosingme,”saysBarbarasolemnly.“Noproblem,”saysFaye,eagertobeginhershopping.“Ilikedyourads.”“IfyougointoMacy’s,askforSue,she’smypersonalshopper.Justmentionmyname.She’llbegladtohelpyou.”AfterFayestepsdownandsayshergoodbyes,BarbarastartsuptheHummer’srumblingengine.“Nowthat’spersonalservice,”shesays.“I’mveryaggressive,butthebot-tomlineiscustomersatisfaction.Ifthecustomerisn’thappy,theremustbesomethingwrongwiththem.”■ ■ ■Asyoudrivewestfromthecitycenter,towardsSpringMountainandRedRockCanyon,thecongestionofI-95quicklygiveswaytowidelanesoffasttraffic.Inlessthantenminutes,thetightknitofdowntownbuildingsdisappears.Lowcinderblockwallslinetheroadway.Anoccasionalaban-donedshoppingcartlaysoverturnedalongtheshoulder.Exitsigns(Rain-bowBoulevard,SummerlinParkway)signalthearrivalofLasVegas’sinstantnewsuburbs.Thehighwayrisesslightlyabovethevalley,buttheascentissogradualitgoesunnoticed.Acresofterra-cottatileunrollbeneathyouastheSpanish-styleroofsofnewlybuilthomesundulateformiles,almosttothebaseofthebarrenbrownmountains.Thefiberboardcoveringsofsoon-to-bestuccoedhousesmakethemlooklikeskinnedanimalsnexttothefinishedandalreadyoccupiedmodels.Eachhouseisaduplicateoftheonenextdoor.Downtheline,thesimplewoodenskele-tonsofhousesatastillearlierstateofconstructionlooklikepencilsketches.Blackplastictarpsflapfromtheroofs.Moundsofchalkydesertsoilpilehighinthebarrenyards.ThisistheLasVegashousingmarketatitsmostbasic:agiantarmycampofsubdivisionsmadeupofmass-builtmodelhomes.156b cForSaleThefirstLasVegassubdivisionwasbuiltin1940-41,southoftownonpartofafour-thousand-acretractonceownedbyLeighHunt,apioneeringLasVegasspeculator.CalledtheHuntridgeAddition,itofferedhomebuy-erslandandhouseinthesamepackage.OtherdevelopersfollowedtheHuntridgemodel,buildinghomesandinstallingtheirownutilityservices.Grid-patternedsubdivisionssprangupovernightasdevelopersscurriedtobuyland,goingasfarasamileoutoftowntofindvacanttracts.Alackofplanning,amultitudeofzoningvariances,andspeculatorswhosimplysatonundevelopedacrescreatedaleapfrogeffectthatisstilltherule.Expen-sivegas-andwater-lineextensionsandinsufficientroadimprovementspushedhousingpricesupward.ButpeoplekeptmovingtoClarkCounty,mostlyforjobsattheBasicMagnesiumplantsoutheastoftownand,inthe1950s,attheNevadaTestSite.Inthemid-1940s,HowardHughespur-chased40,000acresoflandfromtheBureauofLandManagementandbecamethelargestprivatelandownerinClarkCounty.(Hisnever-realizedhopewastoattractmajoraircraftindustrytosouthernNevada.)Althoughhissuccessor,theHowardHughesCorporation,hassoldoffmuchofhisestate,itremainsthecounty’slargestprivatelandownertoday.A22,500-acreportionofHughes’spurchase,named“Summerlin”afterHughes’sgrandmother’smaidenname,hasbecomethebest-sellingmaster-plannedcommunityinAmerica.Buildingtherebeganin1990,aftertheHughesCorporationhadbuilt—atitsownexpense—a3.5-mile,$22.5-millionpark-waytoconnectSummerlinwithLasVegas’sexistingfreewaysystem.■ ■ ■TheexitforSummerlinParkwayisabouteightmilesfromtheLasVegasStrip,butitstillfallswithinthecitylimits,whichwereenlargedtoaccom-modatethenewtown.ThecurvingparkwayisasortofYellowBrickRoadleadingtothecenterofa“totalcommunity,”completewithitsownschools,alibrary,theater,severalhousesofworship,andretailshoppingcenters.Sixsculptedchampionshipgolfcourses,bikingtrails,parks,andplaygroundsareplacedtoblendinartfullywiththenaturalwondersofRedRockCanyon,tothewest.Therecreationfacilitiesclosesttocom-pletedsubdivisionsareopen,butothersexistonlyinthemodelofSum-merlin,locatedintheVisitor’sCenter.Wide,unmarkedstreets,sometimesfourlanesacross,connecttheseparate“villages.”Bulldozersandflatbedtrucksloadedwithconstructionequipmentcruisearoundthelabyrinthofcurvingavenueswithouttheinconvenienceoftrafficsignalstoslowthemdown.157b cLisaMoskowitzAttheendofonecul-de-saclinedwithbright-whitehouses,finisheddwellingsstandnexttofiberboard-sheathedframescrawlingwithcon-structionworkers.Asalsatuneblaresfromaportableradio,reverberatingintheemptystreet.Footstepsecho.Nocarsareparkedoutfront,nochil-drenplayintheyards.Insidethemodelhomes,themusicofMichaelBoltonandCelineDionispipedintoeveryroomthroughceilingspeak-ers.Plasticplantsandsilkflowersreposeincornersandontabletops.Vanilla-,apricot-,androse-scentedpotpourrifloatsintheair,attemptingtomaskthesmellofdrywallandfreshpaint.“Upgrades”(i.e.,added-costextras)likeFormicakitchencounters,walk-inpantries,andtop-of-the-lineappliancesareinstalledtoenticehomemakerswiththeirluxury.Almosteverymodelissetuptosuggestfamilylifeinprogress:apileofgourmetpastaandpickledartichokeheartsrestsbythestove,colorfulPotteryBarnplatesaresetonthetable,alittleboy’sfootballhelmetandshoulderpadsarespreadacrossonebed,andadollhouseinanotherbed-roomwaitsforitsownertocomehomefromschool.Nextdoor,amiddle-agedcouplestandsadmiringtheirnewlylaidlawn.AlthoughpeoplearestartingtorealizethatLasVegasisadesert,lushgreenstripsofgrassarecoveted,sayslandscaperJackZunino.“Peoplearestartingtodothemini-oasisconceptusingwater-thriftymaterialsinthefrontandaroundpatiosandlayingturfinthebackyard,”saysZunino.“Butmostarenotwillingtogiveuptheirpetuniasandpansies”—thirstyannualsthatneedfrequentwateringandreplacing.Indigenousplantslikenativeyucca,bottlebrush,anddesertmarigold,Zunigoadds,aregainingpopularity,asareotherdesertfloraimportedfromTexasandMexico.Butinthesenewerdevelopments,greeneryisrare,andmaturetreesorland-scapingareunheard-of.WithintheboundariesofSummerlinlive24,000people,morethan13,000ofthemresidentsofSunCity,anupscale,age-restrictedretirementcommunity.Approximatelyeighteendifferenthomebuildersconstructhouses,condominiums,andtownhousesranginginpricefrom$50,000to$500,000andup.Youngfamilies,roommates,andretiredcouplesarewel-come.In2005,whenSummerlinisscheduledtobecompleted,anestimated180,000peoplewillcallthismaster-plannedcommunityhome.SummerlincollectsaSpecialImprovementDistrictfeefromallresidentsbasedonthesizeoftheirlot,andusessomeofthemoneytoinstallsewersandsidewalksandtopayfortheSummerlinParkway,Nevada’sfirsttrilevelinterchange.AllofClarkCounty’snineteenmaster-plannedcommunitieslevyimprove-mentfees,althoughtheamountvaries.Anotherfeeistypicallycollectedbythecommunityassociationallhomeownersareobligedtojoin,whichenforcesthe“Covenants,ConditionsandRestrictions”thatbindthemall.158b cForSaleTheseregulations,whichcandictateeverythingfromexteriorpaintcolors,noiselevels,andwhatkindofvehiclescanbeparkedinthedrivewaytothesizeofplants,fences,antennas,andgarbagecans,areostensiblyintendedtopreservereal-estatevaluesbypreventingeyesoresandpenalizingbadneigh-bors.Associationfeesrangefromsevendollarsamonth,intheLegacyCol-lectioncommunity(builtbyAmericaWestHomes),to$255amonth,inTheIslandscommunityatSpanishTrail.NoteveryonewholivesinaplannedcommunityinLasVegasishappywiththeserestrictions,orwiththewaytheyareenforcedbyfussyneighbors.SoutheastofLasVegas,inthecityofHenderson,areSummerlin’smostpowerfulrivals,thelargeGreenValleyandGreenValleyRanchMPCsdevelopedbytheAmericanNevadaCorporation.Morethantwentyyearsold,GreenValleyencompasses8,400acresandishometoapproximately42,000people.HankGreenspun,founderandpublisheroftheLasVegasSun,purchasedthislandin1957,whenitwasinthemiddleofnowhereandgoingcheap.Inthe1960s,Hendersonwasstillablue-collartown,housingworkersfromBasicMagnesiumandneighboringchemical-processingplants.Over50percentofthetown’shousingwaslow-incomeorsubstan-dard,muchofittemporaryhousingbuiltduringWorldWarII.Thecitywasredlinedasalow-incomearea.Noneoftheexecutiveswhoworkedinthecity’schemicalplantslivedthere,andnotuntil1978didtheGreenspunfamilystartbuildingonthelandtheyhadbought.TodayHendersonisbestknownforGreenValleyandGreenValleyRanch,whoseresidentsaccountforalmosthalfofthecity’spopulation;in1997,itwasthefastest-growingcityintheU.S.(Henderson,liketheincorporatedcitiesofNorthLasVegasandBoulderCity,isgenerallycon-sideredapartofGreaterLasVegas.)Inadditiontothesetwopopularandestablishedtracts,AmericanNevadaisalsodevelopingSevenHills,ontheothersideofLakeMeadDrive.ThedifferencebetweenthesetwodominantMPCsisoneofimage.PeoplewholiveinrelativelyconservativeSummerlintendtolookdownonthosewholiveinGreenValley,saysRogerKidneigh,aninstructorattheSouthernNevadaSchoolofRealEstate.LocalluminarieslikeMikeTysonandWayneNewtonliveinornearGreenValley,makingitseemaflashy,new-moneykindofplace.“Ithasareputationforbeingfullofyuppies,snobbyandelitist.”ButKidneighandhiswife,Carol,livethere,andtheyloveit.Intheiropinion,Summerlinistoofarawayfromthecityandtheairport,andlackstheestablishedinfrastructureofGreenValley.Summerlinresidentscitethebenefitsoftheirhigherelevation,whichmeanscoolertemperaturesinthesummerandlesssmogyear-round.But159b cLisaMoskowitzGreenValleyisanolder,moreestablishedneighborhood,withmaturepalmtreesliningthepaseo,apedestrianandbicyclepaththatwindsaroundthecommunity.Severallife-sizebronzestatues(sometimesmis-takenforrealpeople)populatethelandscape;abronzemotherbendstotieherdaughter’sshoelace,andbronzechildrensplashthroughrealwaterinafountain.CarolKidneigh,whomovedtoLasVegasfromDenverin1991,insists,“Wehaveplentyofthingstodohere.WehaveShakespeareinthePark.Wehaveourfleamarketslikeeverybodyelse,andafarmer’smarket.Gamblingissecondary.It’sAnywhere,USA.”■ ■ ■WhatClarkCounty’snineteenmaster-plannedcommunitieshaveincommonisasensethattheysomehowprovideabetter—andsafer—lifestylethantheonesbeyondtheirgatesandwalls.“Buyerslookforneighborhoodsafetyfirst,thenschoolquality,thenthehouseitself,”saysTimMcKenna,whosellshomesinbothGreenValleyandSummerlin.Thewalls,guards,andelaboratesecuritysystemsthatarenowastandardfeatureinmostnewLasVegassubdivisionshelppersuadenewcomersnotonlythattheyaresaferinsideanMPC,butalsothatit’sdangeroustobeontheotherside.Inadditiontotheall-importantsenseofsecurity,MPCsofferready-made,pop-upcommunitiesforthosewhohaveleftoldneighborhoodsbehind.SinceLasVegashasnourbancentertofocusonorbuildoutfrom,placeslikeGreenValleyandSummerlinhavecreatedtheirowntowncen-terswithinexclusiveboundaries.“There’safeelingthatpeoplewanttorecapturefromthefiftiesandsixtiesofbelongingtoaneighborhood,ofhavingblockparties,”saysMcKenna,wholivesinGreenValley.“WithinGreenValleyandSummerlin,thereareawholebunchofsmallcommuni-ties.Theyrangefromeighty-fivetoahundredhomeswithinasubdivision.Thatbecomesasmalllittlecommunitywithinitself.Peoplewholivetherefeelliketheybelongsomewhere.That’ssomethingpeoplearereachingfor.”Creatingthatneighborhoodfeelingmaybeeasyinamaster-plannedcommunity,butforthosewholiveoutsidethewalls,it’smorechallenging.“Togettoknowyourneighborisverydifficult,sowhatwe’lldoisgoinside,closethedoor,andputtheTVon.Wemighthaveafewfriendsoverforabarbecue,andthentheneighborswillwalkbywiththeirnosesstuckintheair,”saysTomLawson.“Ithinkasawhole,everybodyfeelskindofemptybecauseit’skindofnew.”160b cForSaleLasVegasresidentsBruceandKathyPringlehavebeenlookingforanewhouseforthelastsixmonths.Afterseeingalmostfiftyhomes,mostofthemresales,theonethingtheyknowforsureisthattheywanttoliveinGreenValley.“We’reconcernedabouttheneighborhoodandsecu-rity,”saysKathyassheinspectsoneofthethreebathroomsat525LariatLane.“Iwantanewerhousewithafamilyroomandaview.”Thehouseisattheendofastreetthatlooksoutoverabluff.InthedistanceliesSunriseMountainand,beyondthat,LakeMead.Inbetween,bulldozerslevelthegroundinpreparationfornewtractsofhouses.KathyandBrucepokearoundinthekitchenandnoticethatthecabinetsneedsomework;they’llalsoneedanewoven.Builtin1989,thehousecon-tains1,981squarefeetandislistedat$164,900,alittlemorethanthePringleswanttopayforausedfour-bedroom.“We’lljustkeepmulling,”saysBruce,headingforthestationwagonparkedinthedriveway.Theirtwelve-year-oldson,Keith,iswaitingimpatientlyinthebackseat,almostlateforsoccerpractice.TherapidexpansionofMPCslikeGreenValleyandSummerlinisoftencitedasanexampleofwhatailsLasVegasgrowthmanagement.GeoffSchumacher,cityeditoroftheLasVegasSun,haswrittenthatatthesametimecityofficialsarewonderinghowtodealwithtrafficcongestion,pollution,andovercrowdedschools,theyareapprovingadditionalcon-structionatSummerlinwithoutbattinganeye.Butcityandcountyofficialssaytheycannotstopgrowth;thatwouldmeanputtingahalttonewcasino-hotelconstructionandexpansionandtherebyslowingjobcreation,thesinglemostpowerfulattractionfornew-comersmovingtoLasVegas.Howcanacityaskitshearttostopbeating?Rightnow,it’snotevenanoption.Allcityandcountyplannersareallowedtodoistotrytocopewithgrowthasitcomes.“Theplanningismarket-driven.Ithasn’tbeenadvancedplanningforyears,”saysJeffHarris,headoflong-rangeplanningforClarkCounty.“Wehaveadifferentphilosophyandprocesshere.We’retypicallyaskedtofindwaystoaccommodategrowth.”Theeasiestwaytoaccommodateresidentialandcommercialbuildingistorezoneareasformerlydesignatedno-growthandruralzones.Thelackofinfrastructureinthoseareas,however,increasesbuilder’sfeesandisreflectedinthepriceofhomes.EventuallydeveloperswillrunintowhatHarriscallstheUltimateGrowthBoundary:topographicalandgeologicalbarrierslikeNellisAirForceBase,LakeMead,andthesteepslopeslead-inguptothemountains.Butfornow,findinglandisnotaproblem.AccordingtoSchumacher,there’sanestimated121,000acresofundevel-opedlandbetweenprivatelyownedlotsandswappableBureauofLand161b cLisaMoskowitzManagementholdings;at8.5peopleperacre,thecurrentmaximumresi-dentialdensity,that’senoughlandtohouse1.03millionpeople.■ ■ ■Whenshe’snotkeepingtabsonherex-husband,aHollywoodactorwhoplayedTaliaShire’shusbandinTheGodfather,Barbaraistrackingtheactiv-itiesoftheotheragentsintown.WithTom’shelp,Barbarausuallyknowswhatpropertiesarelistedwithwhichagents.Asherownbroker,Barbarabothsellsandlistshomes,whichmeansshegetstokeeptheentire6per-centcommission.Buyersarerelativelyeasytocomeby,eitherbecauseBar-bara’swidespreadmarketingcatchestheireyeorbecausethey’rereferredbyotherRE/MAXagentsacrossthecountry;it’sthelistingsshehastocom-petefor.SowhenTomannouncesthatacertainpropertyinSpanishTrailhasbeenlistedwithanotheragent,Barbaragrimaces.“Thatsellerisigno-rant,unsophisticated,andstupid.Itoldherwheretopricethathousesoshetookouradviceandwentwithsomeoneelse.Thoseagentsaren’tgoingtodowhatIwoulddoasfarasmarketing.Eventuallythey’llcometome.”DrivingthroughLasVegasneighborhoodsfromTheLakestoDesertShores,shecannametheagentahomeislistedwith,hisorherreputation,andinmostcasestheaskingprice.Shewatchesthosepropertiesveryclosely.Iftheyaren’tselling,sheringsthedoorbell.Anypropertyisfairgame,butBarbarafeelstheareashelivesin,southwestofthecitywherehalf-acrehorseranchesandestatesarestillavailableforsale,isherprimefarmingarea.ThisistheheartofBarbaraCountry.AfarmingexpeditionusuallyentailsatripintheBarbieMobile.Bar-baracruisesdifferentsectionsoftown,referringtoherMLSprintout.Whenshefindsanaddressthat’sbeentakenoffthemarket,oris“ForSaleByOwner,”shesendsTomtothedoorwithhislatestmarketinghookinhand:BarbaraReed’sUltimateRealEstateMarketingPlan,athin,spiral-bound,plastic-coveredbooklettoutingthetalentsofhisboss.Inhiswarmsouthernaccent,TomwillexplaintothesellerhowBar-barareceivesreferralsfromagentsacrossthecountrywhoseclientsaremovingtoLasVegas,andhowahomeisenteredintotheMultipleListingSystemandexposedtothousandsofreal-estateprofessionalsintheLasVegasarea.Finally,Barbaralistsapropertyusingacomparativemarketinganalysisofthependingandsoldhomesinthearea.Atanyonetime,Bar-barawillhavebetweentwentyandsixtylistingstohername.ThelatestannexationtoBarbaraCountryistheMountCharlestonmarket.LessthananhourfromtheStrip,MountCharlestonissouthern162b cForSaleNevada’sskiresort,andevenLasVeganswhodon’tskiliketopointtoitasanexampleofthediversityoftheirrecreationoptions.WhenBarbaragetsacallfromapotentialbuyerfromIllinoiswhowantstolookatcabinsonthemountain,shequicklyrearrangesherschedule.Sheiseagertoselloneparticularcabinonhersheetassoonaspossible;it’sapropertyBarbararecently“farmed”fromanotherreal-estateagentafterithadbeenonthemarketforsometime.Barbaraisdeterminedtoturnthis“justlooking”intoa“justsold,”andanchorherreputationasacan-doMountCharlestonagent.AsBarbaraheadsnorthupI-95,thelandscapechangesquicklyfromtiledroofsandcornerquickie-martstodesolatedesertbrushplantedwithoversized“ForSale”signs.Barbaraexitsthehighwaytoatwo-laneroadthatfadesintotheflatsleadingtothebaseofSpringMountain.SnowstillstreaksthehigherpeaksandbluffsinlateMarch.Onthevalleyfloor,thesunbeatsdownonshaggycactithatlooklikesomethingoutofaDr.Seussbook.Hand-paintedsignsindicateP.O.boxesforafewscatteredranchhomes,barelyvisiblefromtheroad.ThereissomuchvacantlandjustafewmilesfromLasVegasthattheideaofalandshortageishardlycredi-ble;but,asTompointsout,therearenohookupstothecity’sfacilitiesouthere.Generatorsandwellsprovidepowerandwater.Inafewmoremiles,abeat-uproadsignwarns,therewillbenogasstations.AstheBarbieMobilebumpsalongtheroad,bottlesofEvianwaterrollbackandforthonthecarpetedfloorboards.Forafewminutes,theonlysoundisthatoftheRV’spowerfulengine.Thenallhellbreakslose.“Oh,shit!”Barbaraslamsthesteeringwheelwithbothhands.“ThekeystothecabinareintheHummer!”Shereachesfranticallyforhercellphone,tuckedawayinthepursebyherfeet,tryingtokeephereyesontheroad.“Thisisbeyondnormalforus.Idon’tbelieveit!Wecouldlosetheclientoverthis.”“That’sabummer,”saysTomcalmlyfromhisperchonthesofa.Shephonestheoffice,butthereisnoanswer,andnowaytogetthekeysuptothemountainintime.“Icouldbreakin,”Tomsuggests.Barbaraissilentforamoment,thenshakesherhead.“Unlessawindow’sopenorsomething,thatprobablyisn’tagoodidea.We’lljusthavetotellhimthetruth.”JackAndersoniswaitinginhisrentedMercuryCougarintheparkinglotoftheMountCharlestonHotel.Hedoesn’thavemuchtime,hetellsBarbara,whoisagoodthirtyminuteslate;hehastocatchaplanebacktoChicagointwohours.Barbaraleansintotheopenpassenger-sidewin-dow,apologizes,thensheepishlyadmitsthatshedoesn’thavethekeystothecabin.163b cLisaMoskowitz“Thetruthofthematteris,wehaveeggalloverourface,”shesays.Jackdoesn’tsayanythingatfirst,hejustchewshisgumandlooksstraightaheadoverthetopofthesteeringwheel.Heseemsaquietmanbynature,acoupleofyearsfromretirement,aburlywhitebeardcurlingaroundhisface.Butrightnow,Jack’ssteadysilencesuggestshe’snotpleased.“Well,it’sallright,”hefinallysays.BarbaragivesTomanervouslook,thengetsintothepassengerseat.Tomhopsinbackandstartsthesell.“There’sanine-holegolfcoursehereatthehotel,andthey’reputtinginaconveniencestorethisyear,”hesays.“I’dsayoftheaboutfourhundredfiftypropertiesuphere,onlyfiveorsixlotsareleft.Foraquarter-acreinRainbowCanyon,it’sgoingtorunahundredtwenty-fivetoahundredthirtythousandwiththepowerandwaterhookups.”Jacklistensquietly.Afterafewminutesofnegotiatingnarrow,twistingroads,Tompullsalongsidethelocked,two-storycabinonthesideofahill.Thetripuptothehouseissteep,andBarbaraissoonoutofbreath.“It’stheelevationuphere,”shesays.Tomlooksforawayintothecabin.Afterfailingtofindanextrakeyinalltheobviousplaces—abovethedoorframes,underwelcomemats—hestartspullingatwindowscreens.Everythingislockedtight.Jackwillhavetobesatisfiedwithsimplypeeringthroughthewindows.Hisjobdone,Tomlightsupacigaretteandwandersofftotakeapissinthewoodsbehindthehouse.Theownersjustreducedtheaskingpriceto$289,000from$295,000,saysBarbara.“Itoldthemtoreducethepricebecausethecarpetingneedsreplacing.”WhenJackisoutofearshot,Barbaraadds,“Itmaybegoodhecouldn’tseetheinside,becauseitreallyneedssomework.”Sinceshecan-notselltheinsideofthecabin,shesellsthescenery.“Thisisprobablythegreatestviewuphere,andthispropertyisuniquebecauseithasafrontlawn.”The“lawn”issomewherebeneathseveralfallentreelimbs,decay-inggardenhoses,andacoupleofplasticmilkcrates.Anolddoghouseandachildren’splaykitchenlieundertheporchonacriss-crossofdiscardedwood.Jackwalksaroundthecabin,askingaboutsewerandwaterfees.“IthinkI’dhavetogetmeahammockuphere,”hesays.TheunfinishedlookofthepropertyactuallyappealstoJack,whosayshe’sinterestedinwork-ingonafixer-upperanyway.BeforeheadingbacktotheBarbieMobile,BarbaratakesJackforaquicktouroftheotherhomesonthemountain.Shespoutsoffthelistingandsellingpricesofmostofthem;herFORSALEsignsareplantedattheedgeofseveralproperties.Jackisimpressed.Attheendofanhour,heassuresBarbarathathe’llbeintouchsoon.“Asfarasmylevelofinterest,IpredictI’llprobablybuysomethinginthenextsixmonths,”hesays.164b cForSale“AllIcansayisbuysooner,”saysBarbara.“Thedemandishigh.Rightnowthere’snotreallyalotofpeoplelookinguphere,butanothermonthfromnowyoumightgetfiftycarsdrivingpastus.”“I’msorryyoudidn’thaveyourkeys.Shameonyou.Butithappens.”“Actually,itneverhappens.That’swhyI’msoupsetatmyselfforlettingithappen.Please,giveusanAforeffort.”“I’llgiveyoumore,butnotmuchmore,”saysJacksmiling.TomandBarbarawaveashepullsoutontothemainroad.Barbaracan’tbelieveherluck.“Talkaboutbackpedalingintoasale!”shesays.“Ifyoucan’tdazzlethemwithbrilliance,youbafflethemwithbullshit.”■ ■ ■Despitedownturnsinthenationalhousingmarket,themetropolitanLasVegasareahasenjoyedstrongconstructionandhomesalesfornearlyadecade.Aslongashotelandcasinoconstructioncontinues,jobswillbeplentiful,andbothjob-seekersandretireeswillkeepmovinghere.R.KeithSchwer,directoroftheCenterforBusinessandEconomicResearchattheUNLV,estimatesthattwoandahalfjobsarecreatedforeveryroomaddedontheStrip.In1996,$1.9billionwaspouredintohotelbuildingandexpansion,addingalmost10,000rooms;in1997,$600millioninnewconstructioncreatedanother4,000rooms.Threemajornewhotelsopenedin1998,thenumberofroomsgrewby17,000,andthenumberofjobsaccordingly.Ofcourse,noteverynewhotelmaidordishwasher—noteveneverynewconstructionworker—isgoingtobeinthemarketforahouse.Butalltheseworkerswillneedsomewheretolive;andtheeco-nomicmultipliereffectofsomuchnewbuilding,somuchmoretouristspendingandservicing,islikelytoincreaseboththejobandthehousingmarketsforpeopleinagreatmanyfieldsunrelatedtogambling.“Idon’treallyseeitslowingdown,”saysRichardLee,ofFirstAmericanTitle.“Includingwhatopenedin1996andwhatwasunderconstructionandwhatwillbeunderconstructionthrough1998,it’saninvestmentofeightbilliondollars.Youfindmeanothercityonplanetearththat’scur-rentlyinvestingeightbilliondollarsinnewjobgrowthandconstruction.”Ifjobgrowthisthenumberonefactorbolsteringthehousingmarket,thendevelopersandbuildershavenothingtoworryabout.ButthisisnottheLasVegasoftwentyoreventenyearsago.Theter-rificinfluxofpeoplehasbroughtnewconsiderationstobearonthehous-ingmarket.Increasedpollutionfromtrafficandconstructionhas165b cLisaMoskowitzdecreasedairquality;peoplewhooncemovedtotheareatoescapesuchproblemsfindthatLasVegasisnotthehavenitoncewas.Althoughlandisstillabundant,rapiddevelopmentkeepspushingpricesup,andtheBureauofLandManagementistalkingofgettingoutofthegame.Essen-tialslikenewschoolsandroadsandnewwaterandsewerlinesneedtobepaidfor,atapricetagnowestimatedinthebillions.Recently,thecountyhasturnedtoprosperoushomebuilderstohelpsupplythosefunds,andthatcostwillbeaddedtothepriceofeachnewhome.Permit,planning-commission,andsewerfeeshavebeensteadilyrisingoverthepastfewyears;water-hookupfeesarenowashighas$3,000perhome.Slowly,thepriceofanewhomeinLasVegashasbeenedgingup,evenasCaliforniapriceshavedeclined;between1995and1998,themedianpriceofahomecreptupmorethan20percent.Tokeeppricesdown,buildershavebecomemorecompetitive,offeringbuyersreducedclosingcosts,specialfinancingpackages,and“free”upgrades.“Oneofthechallengesfacinghomebuildersisthatprofitsaredecreas-ing.It’saverycompetitivemarketplaceandit’sveryprice-sensitive,soprofitmarginsaredifficulttomaintain,”saysDennisSmith,presidentofHomeBuildersResearch.Uptoapoint,builderswillswallowincreasesinfeesandlandprices,sothattheirhomessellasquicklyaspossible.Thelongeranewhomestandsempty,thelongerthebuilderhastopayinterestonhisconstructionloan,decreasingthechanceforaprofit.Sincecasinoandhotelconstructionseemunlikelytoslowdownsoon,theneighborhoodsandhighways,schools,andparksofClarkCountywillbecomemoreandmorecrowded;lotsizeswillshrink,andhomepriceswillclimb.Insomeways,LasVegasisgoingthroughthesamegrowingpainsasanyotherburgeoningmetropolitanarea,likeAlbuquerqueorWestPalmBeach,onlyatamorerapidpace.Butitsrelianceonasingleindustrymakesitsproblemsunique.“Peoplethinkthestreetsinthistownarepavedingoldasfarasrealestategoes,”saysRogerKidneigh.HetellsthethousandsofstudentswhotakehiscourseattheSouthernNevadaSchoolofRealEstateeachyearthatsevenoutoftencurrentreal-estateagentswon’tbeinthebusinessafewyearsfromnow.“Ithinkthemarketwillcontinuelikethisforanotherthreetofiveyears,butnolonger.Nothinglastsforever.“Ofcourse,Isaidthatfiveyearsago.”166b HousesoftheHolyLoriLeibovichIt’sSaturdaynightinLasVegas.Acharismatichostwelcomesonethousandspectatorstoanightofsinging,sharing,andliveentertainment.Literockwaftsfromadimlylitstageasushershandoutprogramsandescortolderwomentotheirseats.Thecrowdsitsonfoldingchairs,eyesgazingatthelargemoviescreenunfurledbeforethem.AcatchyTVtunebeginsplayingoverthesoundsystem;whispershissthroughtheaudienceasitrecognizesthethemesongfromTheAndyGriffithShow.Anxiously,thecrowdwaitsforthemainevent.Thisperformanceisoneofmanyjam-packedextravaganzastakingplacearoundthecitytonight—butthisoneismilesfromthesparkleandspectacleofDowntownandtheStrip.Itwillnotshowcasemastermagi-cians,country-westernsingers,ortheGirlsofGlitterGulch.Tonight’sshowwillbefrontedbyanewbreedofLasVegascelebrity,onewhomakesuseofmanyofthesamegimmicksthathavealwaysdrawnpeopletothiscity—dazzlingsights,captivatingmusic,andthepromiseofgreatenter-tainment.It’sSaturdaynightinLasVegas,andtheheadlinerisworkingforGod.ThecrowdatCentralChristian,oneofahandfulofso-calledmegachurchesthathavesprungupinthelastdecade,tapsitsfeettothewhistleoftheAndyGriffithShowtheme.Alongwithclipsfromthis1960s167b cLoriLeibovichTVshow,tonight’sservicewillincludeatheatricalperformance,liveChristianrock,andasermon,allbasedonthetheme“HowtoMaketheMostofTime.”Lookingmorelikearodeofanthanatraditionalclergyman,GeneAppel,CentralChristian’sboyish-lookingpastor,takescenterstagedressedinbluejeans,adenimshirt,andabolotie.“Friends,”hebegins,inasqueaky,nasalvoice,“oneofthebiggesttime-wastersissin.”Appelticksoffafewprimeexamplesoftime-squandering:drinking,lookingatpornography,committingadultery,gossiping.Hespeaksearnestly,hiseyeshalf-closed,hisheadslightlybowed.“Forme,themostimportantthingistoloveandserveGodwithallmyheart,tolovemywife,Barbara,asChristlovedthechurchandtonurtureanddisciplinemychildren,”Appelsays.Byidentifyingwhatisimportant,heexplains,onecanliveamoreproductive,godlylife.Morethanhalfofthecrowdismadeupofworkingparents,whopresumablyunderstandwhatitisliketojuggleobligationstowork,family,andtheLord.“Theroadtohellispavedwithgoodintentions,friends.”Appelstopsabruptly,hiseyessearchingthefacesbeforehim.“Rememberfriends,Satanlikestostealtime.”Beforetheweekendisthrough,thesamewords,performances,andrit-ualswillberepeatedthreetimes,tonearlyfourthousandpeople.KevinOdor,pastorofCanyonRidge,anotherLasVegasmegachurch,sumsuptheappealofthesemammoth,new-style,nondenominationalchurches:“Thesceneisbetter.”UnliketraditionalProtestantchurches,wheremembersworshiptogetheronSundaysand,savefortheoccasionalbazaarorfuneral,rarelyreturnuntilthefollowingweek,megachurchesencouragefrequentvisitsbyofferingseveralhigh-quality,in-demand“products”underoneroof.“Wearenottryingtostealsheepfromotherflocks,”Odorinsists.“Wearegoingafterthe‘unchurched,’thosewhofoundthechurchtheygrewupinboringorirrelevantordamaging.Wetrytoshowthemsomethingdif-ferent.”IfthebulletinboardinfrontofCentralhadn’tacrossattached,thisdrab,sprawlingone-storybuildingcouldbetakenforanotherLasVegasofficecomplex.TheholycampusofCentralChristianincludesadozenclassrooms,agym,alibrary,aneight-hundred-seatchapel,akitchen,acourtyard(completewithespressocart),theInfantree(astate-of-the-artchild-carefacilityforinfantstotwo-year-olds),andaparkinglotthatcanaccommodatethreethousandcars—morethantheparkinglotsofmostcasino-hotels.Acrossthestreet,theCentralChristianPreschooloccupiesanotherlow,nondescriptbuilding.168b cHousesoftheHoly■ ■ ■Likeitshometown,CentralChristianisexperiencingseriousgrowthpains.InNovember1998,thecongregationmovedtoanew,$23-million,56-acrefacilityinthesouthernsuburbofHenderson,whichofferssanctu-aryseatingfor3,200—morethananyhotelshowroomontheStrip.Thechurchwasfoundedin1962bytwenty-fivefamilies;nowtherearemorethan700families,andtwothousandmembers.IfLasVegas’srapidgrowthpatternscontinue,Centralcouldbeservingclosetotenthousandpeopleeachweekendbytheturnofthecentury.MegachurcheslikeCentralChristianandCanyonRidgearehelpingtousherinanewageofAmericanreligion.Avoidingtraditionalliturgyandmusic,mostmegachurcheshopetoenticeunchurchedBabyBoomersandtheirfamilieswithgoodsandservices,instantcommunity,andaaccessi-ble,techno-saavyGod.“Themegachurchisamixtureofold-timetentrevivalandarockcon-cert,”saidGordonMelton,founderoftheSantaBarbara-basedInstitutefortheStudyofAmericanReligion.“Traditionalchurchesareoffendedbythenotionofchurchasentertainment.”ButinLasVegas,whereentertainmentitselfisasacrament,themegachurchfits.So,surprisingly,domore-traditionalhousesofworship.WhiletheimageofLasVegasasamodern-dayGomorrahmaybecul-turallyindissolubleintherestofthecountry,beyondtheStripandDowntownthecityisaseaofreligiousfaith.In1996,LasVegaswashometo590churches,synagogues,andmosquesrepresenting63denom-inations.ThemoralclimateofthecitywasestablishedbytheMormonsin1855-57,whentheybecamethefirstnon-IndiansettlersofLasVegasValley.Whiletheyrepresentonly6to10percentofthecity’spopulationtoday,theLatter-daySaintscontinuetowieldenormouspoliticalandfinancialinfluence.MormonsownsubstantialtractsofrealestateintheValleyandholdinfluentialpublicoffices.“TheMormonssetthestandardforwhatchurchshouldbeinLasVegas,”saidYvonneJacoby,aLasVegasnativewhonowministerstoteensattheGreaterLasVegasChurchofChrist.“TheMormonsareveryfam-ily-oriented.Withouttheirpowerfulvoicealotofpeoplemightthinkthattoplessdancingwasanacceptableoccupation.”JewishandCatholiccommunitieshavealsoflourishedinLasVegas.Twentyyearsagotherewasonlyonesynagogueintown;todaythereareeleven,representingeverytendencyinJudaismfromtheliberalRecon-structioniststotheultra-orthodoxChabadmovement.Catholics,who169b cLoriLeibovichmakeupthelargestreligiousgroupinthecity(28percent),areoutgrowingtheirparishesandparochialschools.“IfIhadthepriestsIcouldfillthreemoreparishes,easy,”saidBishopDanielWalshoftheCatholicDioceseofLasVegas,aformerauxiliarybishopofSanFrancisco.“ThisisthemostdevotedreligiouscommunityIhaveeverbeenin.”LocalsliketoboastthatwhiletherestoftheworldconsiderstheirhometownSinCity,thereareactuallymorechurchespercapitainLasVegasthananyotherplaceinAmerica.Unfortunately,thisoft-citedsta-tistic—ifitwasevertrue—iscertainlynottruetoday,givenLasVegas’spopulationboom.“IfyoucompareLasVegaswithacityitssize,likeMemphis,youcanseethereisnotruthtothemost-churches-per-capitastatistic,”saidBruceBrown,authorofasourcebookoffactsandfiguresaboutthecity.Asthefastest-growingcityinAmerica—whichittrulyis—ageograph-icalmagnetforthelucklessandforlornaswellastheentrepreneurialandambitious,LasVegasteemswithrootlessmigrantshopingtomakeitbig.Theyarriveinthisdesertboomtownsearchingforcommunityandstrength—andoftenfinditinahouseofGod.“InLasVegas,peoplearehungeringforchurch,notbecausetheyaresearchingforGod,butbecausetheyaredisconnected,”saysMarkWhelchel,thedirectorofadultministriesatCentralChristian.“Thisisaboomtown.Peoplearenewtothearea,theyhavelefttheirfamiliesandtheirroots.Thereisnotraditionhere.Wewanttohelpcreatesome.”Thetraditionheandhiscolleagueshavecreateddoesnotrequiretypi-calreligiousaccoutrementssuchassteeples,pews,hymns,andvestments.LasVegas’snewchurchesareperhapsnotas“mega”asthemovement’smostfamouscongregations;WillowCreekinsuburbanChicagoandtheCrystalCathedralinGardenGrove,California,bothserveupto15,000peopleeachweekend.Theyarenoteven“mega”comparedwithsomeofLasVegas’slargesttraditionalcongregations;Baptist,Lutheran,andCatholicchurchesservethousandsofparishionerseachSundayaswell.Theprefixmega(acommonlyoverusedformofVegashypemeaning,lit-erally,amillion)hascometorefernottonumbersbuttoakindoftheol-ogy.Whateverthesizeoftheircongregations,megachurchesnationwideshareafewbasicingredients:charismaticleaders,anevangelicalmission,vastchildren’sprograms,smalldiscussiongroupsandministries,livelymusic,andacasualatmosphere.YvonneJacobyoftheGreaterLasVegasChurchofChristsaidthathercongregationoffivehundredisconsidered“mega”notbecauseofitssizebutbecauseitisnondenominational,grow-ingrapidly,andequippedwiththeseessentialingredients.170b cHousesoftheHoly■ ■ ■JoeBoydisastocky,corn-fedOhiokid.Hislargeframeistoppedbyafreckledfaceandreddish,straw-straighthair.Tonight,though,JoeBoydlookssmallashestandsaloneonalargestageattheSeventh-DayAdven-tistChurchinnortheastLasVegas.ThisisnotBoyd’schurch.Boyd,atwenty-three-yearoldyouthminis-ter,worksatCanyonRidge,buthecan’tpreachthereyet.(EventhoughtheCanyonRidgecongregationboastsmorethanfivethousandloyalmembers,itsnewquartersonlyopenedinApril1998.Untilthen,high-schoolauditoriumsandborrowedchurcheshadtosuffice.)“SometimesIlookoutoverallthelightsofthiscityandIthinkaboutallthelostpeopleoutthere.Thiscity—itisgrowingsofast—Idrivebybuild-ingafterbuilding,andagain,allIcanthinkaboutisallofthelostpeople,”hetellsthecrowd.Withsomanyrootlesssouls,LasVegasisfertilegroundforconversions—goodnewsforthesenew,evangelicalchurches.“Dopeopleeveraskyou,‘Whyareyousohappy?Whyisyourfamilylifesogood?Whydoyousmile?’Andyouthink,‘Gee,ifItellthemit’sbecauseI’maChristian,they’regoingtothinkI’mnuts!’”Boydsays.TheCanyonRidgecrowdlaughs.Withouttheleastshredofclericalgarb,Boydlooksremarkablysecular.Tonightheiswearingbluejeans,aplaidshirt,andworkboots.“Wemustbeculturallyengaged,”Boydsays.“Ifwecantalkaboutmusic,movies,currentevents,thenwecanstartconversationswithpeoplethatmayleadtofriendship.Andthenwhenweknowapersonbetter,wecantellthemaboutchurch.”Afewdayslater,attheCanyonRidgeadministrativeofficesinaSum-merlinstripmall,BoydreflectsonthechallengesofministeringinLasVegas.“Ifyouhaveanaddiction,whetherit’salcohol,gambling,orpornogra-phy,andyoumovetoLasVegas,you’restupid.Thosepeoplegetchewedup.”Thegoodnews,heexplains,isthatthemegachurchcanhelpputbro-kenlivesbacktogether,notonlybyfillingaspiritualgapthroughSundayservice,butalsothroughsmallrecoverygroupsthatmeetfrequentlyatthechurch.“Somanypeopleweseearesimplyscrewedup,anditisdifficulttoknowwhetherthat’sbecauseofthecitywelivein,orbecauseourchurchencouragespeopletobereal.Weareonthefrontlinesofsininthistown.Thismakesthevictoriessweeterandthedefeatsharder.”Boydrecallsarecentdefeat.Ayoungcoupleinoneofthesmallgroupsheministersdecidedtodivorce.“Thehusbandfreakedout,leftthegroup,171b cLoriLeibovichandstartedgambling,andhewon’treturnmycalls,”Boydsaid,shakinghishead.“Itbreaksmyheart.”Mostmegachurchleaders(likemostcasinoowners)viewgambling,inmoderation,asnothingmorethanaharmlessformofentertainment.“Someofthepastorsheregamblerecreationally,”saidKerryO’BryantofCentralChristian,whopersonallyavoidsthecasinosbecauseofhisownaddictivetendencies.“InLasVegas,it’slikegoingtoamovie.”Butgam-blingisn’tencouraged.“Thereisanabilitytogetintotroublehere,”saysCentral’sMarkWhelchel.“There’salotofalcoholism,drugabuse,suicide.It’soneoftheleasthealthycitiestolivein.”Whelchel,wholeadsasupportgroupcalled“SolidGround”forCentralmembersindirefinancialstraights,sayspeo-pleareluredtoLasVegasbecauseofthemanyrelativelyhigh-payingjobs,likecocktailwaitressingorvaletparking,thatareavailabletoanyonewholooksgoodinaminiskirtorcanparkarentalcar.“WhenpeoplearriveinLasVegastheyoftenfeeloverwhelmed,”Whelchelsaid.Somanyheadfortheroulettewheelorthedollarslots.“Iseesomepeoplewithlargegamblingdebtsinthesmallgroup.But,”headded,“Iseetentimesmorepeoplewithcredit-carddebt.”Theubiquityandpowerofthegamingindustrymakeitimpossibleforreligiousleaderstocondemnitwithoutoffendingsomeoneintheircon-gregation.Moreover,relationshipsbetweenreligiousgroupsandthecasi-nosaremutuallybeneficial.Thecasinosgetgoodpress,andthechurchesandsynagoguesgetthingstheyneed:theCatholicdioceseholdsadminis-trativemeetingsinStrip-hotelfunctionrooms.JewishcongregationsholdRoshHashanaservicesincasinoballrooms.SteveWynn,thecurrentpatronsaintofLasVegas’sgamblingindustry,hasdonatedmoneyandlandtosynagogues,Mormonstakes,andseveralchurches.OnlyoneLasVegasreligiousgroup,infact,theMormons,officiallyforbidsgambling(alongwithalcoholandtobacco).ButthechurchmakesconcessionsforitsLasVegasmembers:Latter-daySaintsinClarkCountyarepermittedtoworkintheadministrative,managerial,orexecutivebranchesofthecasinoindustry,thoughthey’rediscouragedfromworkingatthetablesorinthebars.AshleyHall,aLDSspokesman,admittedthatthereareafewblackjackdealersingoodstandingwithinthechurch,“buttheyaretheexception,nottherule.”LasVegasmaybetheonlyplaceintheworldwhereMormondoctrinehasbeenalteredtoaccommodateacity’seconomicforces.“WhenIfirstcamehere,Iassumedgamblingwastaboo.IassumedthatanyonewhoworkedintheindustryorlikedtogambleandwantedtobecomeaChristianwouldquit,”saidCentral’sO’Bryant.“Butaverysig-172b cHousesoftheHolynificantproportionofourcongregationworksatthecasinos,asblackjackdealers,waitresses,andcashiers.”O’BryantandotherclergyarequicktopointoutthatthereisnoreferencetogamblingintheBible,andthatitisnotofficiallyregardedasasin.“Whensomeonecomestomeandsaysthey’reatwenty-onedealer,thereisnoresponsefromme,”saidBobPerry,PastorofVictoryChristianChurch.(Foundedwithsixpeoplein1991,Victorynowministerstomorethan500.)“Weteachpeoplethattheiridentityisnotderivedfromtheirvocation.”Perry,infact,wasacarsalesmanbeforeheattendedOralRobertsUniversity,inTulsa,wherehewastrainedasapastor.Peopleassumedhewasshifty,hesays,becauseofhisjob.“Itellpeopletheiriden-tityiswhotheyareinJesusChrist.SometimesGodwillspeaktoadealerandtellthemtostayrightwheretheyare,becausetheyaretheonlylightinthewholedarncasino.”■ ■ ■Beardedandhandsome,42-year-oldKevinOdorlookslikeafolksinger.ThepastorofCanyonRidgehasakindlyfaceandwearscasual,woodsyclothing.AnotherOhionative,OdorjoinedthestaffatCanyonRidgeChristianChurchin1993,justasthecongregationwasgettingofftheground.Heknewrightawaythathewasn’tinOhioanymore.“BackintheMidwestpeoplehaveanimage,aveneertheyfeeltheyhavetomaintain.Ittookalongtimeforthemtotrustmeenoughtoairtheirdirtylaundry,”saidOdor.“InthistownIgetitinfiveminutes.Ihadjustarrivedtohelpstartthechurchandpeoplewalkedintomyofficeandsaid‘I’vebeendivorced,I’vebeensexuallymolested,myboyfriendisbeat-ingme,mypregnantkidjustranawayfromhome,’andIwaslike,‘Oh,isthatall?’Thereissuchabrokennesshere.Wedon’thavetoconvincepeo-plethattheyneedhelp.Theycomeinsaying,‘Help.’”KevinOdorlikestheword“authenticity.”It’swhathebelievesseparatesmegachurcheslikeCanyonRidgefromotherhousesoftheholy.“Weseealotofself-doubt,spiritualhurt,festeringwounds,theneedforforgiveness.WetellpeopleheretoberealbecauseauthenticityfreespeopleandhonorsGod.Wearerealpeopleinarealchurchandthepas-torsonstagearerealpeoplewithrealhurt,realmarriages,realproblems.AndweareallpeoplewhoreallyloveGod,”Odorsaid.OdorcitesresearcherswhodiscoveredthatoneofthemainreasonsBabyBoomersweredrivenawayfromtraditionalchurcheswasbecausetheydidn’tmakethemfeelgood.“Peopleareusedtobeingtoldbythe173b cLoriLeibovichchurchthatthey’rewrongorsinfulandguilty,”Odorsaid.“Theyhavebeencondemnedbutneverhelped.That’swherewecomein.It’sallhon-est.It’sfunctionalinsteadofdysfunctional.Youareallowedtospeak,allowedtofeelwhatyou’vealwaysbeentoldyoucan’tsee,talkorfeel.Andwhenthathappens,it’slike,‘Ohmygosh!MaybeIcanbehealed.’”CanyonRidgeisCentralChristian’ssistercongregation.AsCentralgrew,afewhundredWestLasVegascongregantsdecideditwastimetobuildtheirownhouseofworshipclosertohome.In1993,withblessingsandfinancialsupportfromCentral,CanyonRidgewasborn.OnthefirstSundayofitsexistence,CanyonRidgeheldservicesforsixhundredpeo-pleinahigh-schoolauditorium.Sincethen,thenumberofattendeeshasmorethantripled.In1998,thecongregationopenedanew$20-millionchurchonthirtyacresoflandinWestLasVegas.■ ■ ■CentralChristian’smotto,“WhereNeedsareMet,”couldserveasaslo-ganforthemegachurchmovementasawhole.Morethantwodozen“smallgroups”meethereduringtheweek.Somediscussissuessuchassubstanceabuseandmaritalstrife;othersarepurelyrecreational,likeaero-bicsclasseschoreographedtoChristianrockmusic.“WehavespentalotoftimetryingtounderstandtheunchurchedLasVegasBabyBoomers,andwehavestructuredourwholeministryaroundthat,”saidKerryO’Bryant.“Whatwedoisuseobjectsandlessonsandstoriesthatthecommonmancanunderstand.Jesushungoutwiththecommonman,butmanyreligiousleadersofhisdaywereoutoftouch.Wewanttobeintouchwiththeneedsofthecommonmanandwoman.”ScanningalistofweeklyactivitiesatCentral,onelearnsthatwhatthecommonman,woman,andchildinLasVegasneedsishelp.Sunday:SoulInsight:aspiritualitygroupforteensMonday:ToughLoveParentingGroupTuesday:DivorceRecoveryGroupWednesday:LydiaCircle:asupportgroupforseniorwomenThursday:G.L.O.W:GirlsLivingOuttheWord,apreteenministrySaturday:LadiesCo-DependencygroupBrochuresadvertisingCentral’smanysmallgroupsarestuffedinsideplasticenvelopesthatlinethewallsofthechurch’stennis-court-sizelobby.Thereissomethingforalmosteveryone:SoulInvasion,aSeniorHighSchoolSocialMinistry;W.O.W.(WomenOftheWord),aBible-174b cHousesoftheHolystudygroup;WeighDownWorkshop;TooBusyNottoPray,asupportgroupforbusymoms;AlcoholicsAnonymous;Al-Anon;SurvivorsofSuicide;PornographyRecovery;andInHisImage,agroup“intendedtoassistwomenhealingfromdamagedemotionsandtohelpthemformhealthyrelationshipswithGodandothers.”BecausemanyBabyBoomersarefamiliarwithtwelve-stepprograms,theyfeelcomfortableinsmall-groupsettings,saymegachurchleaders.Thegroupsalsokeepexpandingmegachurcheshomeyenoughsothatpeopledon’tgetlostinthecrowd.“BecomingChristlikeisatogetherthing,andthatiswhatourbigworshipservicesareabout,”saidCentral’sWhelchel.“OnSundayyoucouldbesittingtworowsbehindsomeonewhoisgoingthroughadivorceorjustdeclaredbankruptcyandnotevenknowit.That’swhatsmallgroupsarefor.Tobetogetherandshare.Tostayaccountabletothemembersofthegroup.SmallgroupsarenotjustaboutCentral,theyareCentral.”ItisWednesdayevening,andCentral’scongregationhasgatheredforExultation,aweeklyceremonybilledasa“corporateworshipexperience”forbelievers.Thechapelisahugeauditoriumwithbeigewallsandthekindoffold-downseatsfoundatmovietheaters.Theroomisdimlylitbyseveralfive-foot-tallcandlesalongsidethealtar.PastorGeneAppelwel-comes“thefamily”withanopeningprayer,thenasksthecongregationtobearwitnessasbaptismsareperformed.Adoorbehindthedaisopensandsentimentalorganmusicwaftsthroughtheroom.“KristinReynolds,”Appelsays.Agawkyadolescentclumpsdownthestairsinatoo-shortwhiterobethatbarelyreacheshercalves.ShebowsherpermedblondehairbeforePastorGene.“Kristin,doyouacceptJesusChristasyourLordandSavior?”Shenodsyes.PastorGenedunksherheadinthestonebaptismalfont.Waterdrip-pingdownhershoulders,Kristinexitsthestageastheaudiencecheers,likefansatabasketballgame.Thebaptismscontinueforalmostfifteenminutes.MostofthetwentyorsopeoplewhocommittoChristonthiseveningareteenslikeKristin,thoughafewoldermenandwomencomethroughthedoor.Theevening’ssermonisaboutsmallgroups.SeniorPastorSteveThomasonstandsonstageinfrontofagianteasel,clutchingamagicmarker.“Asourchurchgrowslarger,wemustgrowsmaller,”hebegins.TheWednesday-nightcrowdissmallerthantheweekendservice,attractingabout800worshippers.It’smid-Marchandthedesertairisget-175b cLoriLeibovichtingwarmer.Acouplenearthefrontwearshorts,thewomanwithamatchingblouseandherhusbandwithaPromiseKeepersT-shirt.Thomason,likethecrowdbeforehim,isdresseddown,inDockersandabluepoloshirt.“Atourlargeservices,anonymityisintentional,”Thomasonexplains.“Wewantnewcomerstobeabletoslipin,hearourmessageandleavewithoutfeelingliketheyneedtocommit.”Thomasondrawsdozensofdotsonthepaper,onetorepresenteachsmallgroupatCentral,untilcirclesaresplashedalloverthepage.“EveryChristianisunique!”Thomasonremindstheaudience.“Ifthereisnotagroupheretofityourneeds,thenwecanhelpyoustartone.”(Parishionerswhodecidetoleadasmallgroupmusttakeaseven-weektrainingcourseandattendamonthlymeetingwithotherleaders.)Slowly,Thomasonbeginstoconnectthedotsuntilthescrambledmarksmakeasingleword:JESUS.“Yousee,”ThomasonsayswithanI-told-you-so-smile.“Alloftheran-domdotstogetherbecomeHIM.”Aftercommunion,thecrowdfilesoutnoisily,manypickingupkidsatoneofCentral’son-sitechild-carefacilities.Someheadtothebackofthesanctuarytothe“DecisionRoom,”wheretheycanmeetwithpastorsanddiscusstheirreadinesstoacceptJesusChristastheirSavior.■ ■ ■MegachurchesinLasVegasfilloneoftheBabyBoomers’mostimportantneeds:childcare.TheInfantree,aglass-enclosedroomequippedwithautomatedrockingswings,playpens,andthreechild-careworkers,isopenduringeveryCentralservice.Parentschecktheirinfantsinatthestartoftheeveningandreceiveanumber;ifatanytimeachildbeginscryingorneedsparentalattention,theparent’snumberisflashedononeofseveralcolormonitorsaroundthesanctuary.“Parentsdon’thavetoworryandtheycanreallyenjoytheservicebecausetheirbabiesareingoodhands,”O’Bryantsaid.“Iftheyseetheirnumber,theyarefree—andencouraged—toleave.Theycanalwaysgrabatapeofthesermonlateron.”Olderchildrenarescatteredaboutinroomsmarkedaccordingtoage.Asmallgirlwithahelmetofblackcurlswaitsinthefive-year-olds’roomforhermother.Whenshearrives,mommustshowaphotoI.D.beforeshecantakeherdaughterbythehand.Thegirlhasspentthelasthourdoingartsandcrafts.Ahomemademedal,madefromconstructionpaperandshim-meringwithglitter,danglesfromherneck;itreads,“Godforgivesme.”176b cHousesoftheHoly“Kidsarepeople,too,”KevinOdorsays.“IftheycancometochurchandlearnthatchurchisfunandlearnsongsandstoriesaboutGod,thenyou’replantingseedsandinvestingintheirmorality.”Downthehall,ateenprogramcalled“RealityUnplugged”iswindingdown.Someboysshoothoops,whileclustersofgirlsstandgossipingandteasingoneanother.Aspunky,twenty-somethingleaderblowsherwhis-tle,callingthegrouptogatheronthefloor.“Timetopray!”theleadersays.Mostheadsgodownimmediately.“Thankyou,Jesus,forbringingustogethertonightforfunwithourfriends.Nextweekmayweseenewfaceshere,Amen.We’reouttahere!”■ ■ ■Churchleadersstayintunewiththeircongregants’needsbystayingtunedthemselves.TheywatchTV,gotomovies,readpopularmagazines,listentotheradio,andusepop-culturetidbitstomakesenseoftheBible.ArecentseriesofsermonsatCentralwascalled“WhatwouldGodsayto…HowardStern?DennisRodman?BillGates?”(AnswerB:JesuswouldtellDennisRodmantoreconsiderhisviolenttendenciesandthewayheexpresseshissexuality.“Thefreedomyouarelookingforisnotgoingtocomefromcross-dressingorone-nightstands,butthrougharelationshipwithGod,”Appeladvisedhim.)“Jesuswasculturallyrelevant,”KevinOdorsays.“Hewasalwaysamongthepeopleabletorelatetotheculture.Insteadofjustsaying,‘ThisiswhatiswritteninCorinthians11:3,’wesay,‘ThisiswhatwasonNightline.’”CentralChristianattractsnewmembersbyappealingtotheirculturalandtheirreligioustastes.Throughmarketresearch,CentralChristiandeter-minedthatmostofitsmemberslistentoclassic-rockradio,soallreligiousmusicinthechurchisadaptedtothatformat.“Wearepursuingthesamemessageasold-schoolchurches,butwithadifferentmedium—onethatisrelevanttoourcultureandtime,”saysWhelchel.“IfwewereaTexaschurch,we’dusecountrymusic.”Arecentweekendservicewas,infact,designatedacountry-westerncelebration.AppelandtheotherpastorsworeStetsonsandboloties.Fivesmilingperformersburstonstageandbrokeintoacountry-styleChristiansongcalled“TooManyVoices.”Themaleperformersworejeansandcow-boyboots,thewomenlayered,frillyskirts.Withflairandemotion,themusiciansinvokedthenameofJesus.Peopleintheaudienceclapped,swayed,andtappedtheirfeet,singingalongasthelyricswereprojectedontoamoviescreen.177b cLoriLeibovich■ ■ ■“Godcalledmetostartachurchformygeneration,”saysJoeBoyd,referringto“busters,”twenty-somethingslikehimselfwhodon’tquitefitinwiththeBoomer-stylemegachurch.“Iwanttocreateachurchinsideachurch.”Boydlistenstoalternativerock,likestowatchmovies,andisanavidsportsfan.HesayallofthesepastimesmakehimabetterChristian.“ItisespeciallyimportantforsomeoneofmygenerationtoknowthedifferencebetweenSherylCrow,CountingCrows,andtheBlackCrows,”saidBoyd.“Thatmakesbusterstrustmeandmyopinion.Afterwetalkaboutpopculture,thenwecangettoGod.”Boyd,whoismarried,recentlyledaretreatcalled“TheRealWorld:LasVegas,”borrowingthenameofapopularMTVprogram.Itwasthefirst-everoutingofAPEX,agroupofsinglesandcouplesintheirtwentieswhichBoydfoundedtobring“busters”together.ThegroupspenttheweekendcampinginArizona,discussingspiritualissuesfacingyoungpeople,suchaspremaritalsexandhomosexuality.Boydplayedtwopopu-laralternativehitsatthecampground,bothofwhichmakereferencestoGod,andaskedthegrouptodiscussthelyrics.LikehisBabyBoomermentors,Boyd’sgoalistomakeGodrelevant,sobitsofpopculturefindtheirwayintoalmosteveryactivityheleadsandeverysermonhepreaches.“There’sanurgencytoeverythingwedohereinLasVegas,”Boydsaidwithalookofseriousness.“Ifwedon’tgetthemnow,they’llslip.”Boydsuddenlylooksup,hisfacesuddenlyalivewithoptimism.“ButattheretreatIbaptizedeightpeople!Onepersonsaid,‘Ifitwasn’tforthisretreatIneverwouldhavefoundGod.’”■ ■ ■ItisPalmSunday,theSundaybeforeEaster.PastorGeneAppelisplayingprophet,remindinghisflockthattheendoftheworldwillcome;it’sjustamatterofhowandwhen.Insteadoflayeringhissermonwithbiblicalref-erences,Appelbeginswithaculturalreferencesuretoresonatewiththethousandsofmediaphilesinhismidst.“Youknow,IwasthinkingaboutIndependenceDay,”hebegins,refer-ringtothe1996blockbustermovieaboutalienswhowanttotakeovertheworld.“Andyouknow,wearestaringtheendoftheworldintheface,whetheritwillbebecauseofanalieninvasionorsomethingelse.Godiswarningus.”178b cHousesoftheHolyAppelticksoffexamplesofsomecontemporarywarnings:theeruptionofMountSaintHelens,thecontinuingdepletionoftheozonelayer,thenuclearleakatThreeMileIsland,anda1988explosionataplantinnearbyHenderson.“Remember,destructionwillcomebecauseofman’ssinandevil.TheBiblehasitsownXFiles,”Appelchuckles.Appelremindshisflockthatsincedeathanddestructionmayvisitatanymoment,itisimperativethattheyleadgodlylives.“Thereisanobituarycolumnsomewherewithyournameonitandonewithmynameonit,”saysAppel,hisvoicenowcrackling.“Arepowerandpopularityallthatwewant?Whetheryouhavealittlesinoratruckload,atdeathitisrepentancethatmatters.Godispatient,friends.Hewantsyoutohavethechancetocallhisname.”Theauditoriumfallssilent.Appelpacesalongthestageandthenhurlsaquestionathisflock.“RAISEYOURHANDIFYOUARECOMMITTINGYOUR-SELFTOGOD!”Aboutfortyhandsshootup.179b OrganizingLasVegasAndreaLamprosTHECLOUTOF226OnthenorthernendoftheLasVegasStrip,outsidetheFrontierHotelandCasino,fivepicketerssatonabricklandingwithdog-eared“OnStrike”signsproppedbetweentheirknees,listeningtosalsamusiconanoldradio.Halfablockdown,fourmoreworkerslistenedtoseventiessoulonabeat-upboombox.Nearby,atapedmessagefromtheCulinaryUnioncrackledfromakiosk,appealingtotouriststosupportthestrikersbyrefusingtoentertheFrontier.Acrossthewidestreet,awomanimpatientlywaitedforawalksignal.SheheldaStarbucksicedcoffeeinonehandasshegesturedtowardsthestrikerswiththeother.“They’rethelaziestpicketersI’veeverseen,”shesaidtoherfriend.“Wouldn’tyoubeaftersolong?”“Theyshouldgetitoverwithandgetbacktowork.Findanotherjob.”“Gotellthemthat.”“Ican’t.Theydon’tevenspeakEnglish.”MostoftheFrontierstrikersdidspeakEnglish,infact,thoughoftenwithaSpanishaccent.Duringthesixandahalflongyearsoftheirstrike,theyhadheardallkindsofinsultsandseenthewords“UnionScum”181b cAndreaLamprosscratchedintotheirten-foot-tallsignonthecorneroftheStripandFashionShowDrive.QuirinoCampos,47,whowasonthelinethatday,flippedeggsandburgersattheLasVegasHiltonHotelMondaythroughFridayfrom6AMuntil2PM,thenjoinedthepicketlineattheFrontierforfivemorehours.He’saMexicanimmigrantwhocametoLasVegasviaLosAngelesnineyearsagoinsearchofajobtosupporthistwoteenagedaughters.“Iwantedaunionforme,foreveryone,formyfamily,”hesaid,hisfacealeatheryred.“Idon’tquit.I’monehundredpercentunion.”■ ■ ■LasVegasmayseemanunlikelyplacefortherevivalofadormantnationallabormovement,especiallysincethiscityhasanextraordinarynumberofserviceworkers,abranchoftheworkforcethathastraditionallybeenignoredbyAmerica’sunions.TheshowyStripmayseemmoreahavenforambitiousentrepreneursinsleeksuitsandties(orfortheworld’smiddleclass,onvaca-tioninT-shirtsandshorts)thanforactivistmembersoftheworkingclass.ButthisresortcityinthesouthernNevadadesertisemergingasthenationalfocusofunionorganization.Itcombinesalltherequiredingredients:anabundanceofjobs;aprofitableandpermanentbasicindustry(billion-dollarcasino-hotelsaren’tlikelytomovetoMexicoorTaiwan);millionsofdollarsfromtheAFL-CIO;andoneofthemightiestunionlocalsintheUnitedStates—Local226,thelargestlocalaffiliateoftheHotelEmployeesandRestaurantEmployeesInternationalUnion,with10percentofitsmembers.LasVegasmaybetheonlycityinAmericawhereacocktailwaitress,making$11.25anhourplustips,canaffordtosendherchildrentocollege.TheFrontierHotelstrike,whichendedwiththeownerssellingout(inessence,aunionvictory)latein1997,wasthelongest-runningstrikeinthehistoryoftheUnitedStates,andcertainlythemostvisibleandpivotalunionfightLasVegashaseverseen.Inthespringofthatyear,strikeleaderJoeDaughertywaswatchingtouristswalkalongtheFrontier’sgroomedfrontlawnthroughthickeyeglasses.Heleanedhisfootonthelowbrickwallthatedgesthelawn,ascomfortableasakidinhisownbackyard.Hehadbeenhereonthestreetwiththestrikersalmosteverydaysincethebattlebegan.“We’vegottofinishit,”saidDaugherty,look-ingdownathiswornConverseAll-Stars.“We’vegottoseeittoitsend”—anendthatwas,infact,justafewmonthsaway.TheverylongevityoftheFrontierstrikewasevidenceoftheunion’sstrengthandpersistence.Fivehundredfiftybellmen,maids,cocktailwait-182b cOrganizingLasVegasresses,andcookswalkedout,andnotoneofthemwalkedbackin.(Infact,onlyabout350ofthemwerestillaroundwhenthestrikeended;atleastthirtyfiveoftheoriginalstrikershaddied.)Towardstheend,theremainingstrikershadgivenuphopeofeverwin-ningacontractfromtheElardis,theold-time,anti-unionLasVegasfam-ilythatownedtheFrontier.Someworkersinsistedtheywouldnevergobacktoworkforthefamilyinanycase;theirgoalhadchangedtodrivingtheownersaway.InOctober1997,itwasannouncedthatMargaretElardihadsoldtheFrontiertoPhilRuffin,ahotelownerfromWichita,Kansas,for$165million.TheactualtransfertookplaceonFebruary1,1998,whenRuffinwalkedintothehotelhand-in-handwithCulinaryUnionofficials;hehadearliersignedanagreementtoreopentheFrontierasaunionhotel,andtorehireanyofthestrikerswhowantedtoreturn.TheElardislostanestimated40percentoftheirnormalrevenueduringthestrike.A1997decisionoftheNationalLaborRelationsBoard,upheldinMarch1998afterappeal,costthenewownernearly$5millioninbackwagesandben-efitsforemployeestheElardisfiredin1991.FamilyprideandwealthinspiredandenabledtheElardistokeepresistingtheunionwhileimprovingslot-machineoddsanddecreasingbuffetpricesinthehopeofattractingwaryvisitors.Butthe40,000-mem-berCulinaryUnionhaddeeppockets,too.Membersvotedtoincreasetheirduesbysevendollarsamonthinordertosupportthestrikefundandallowthedemonstrationstooperate24hoursaday,sevendaysaweek,justlikethecasino.Towardstheend,theregularpicketers,mostofwhomhadotherjobs,received$200instrikereliefforeachweektheywereonthelineforatotalof24hours.Inimage-consciousLasVegas,theFrontierstrikewasunwelcomenews.FormerFrontiersecurityguardsclaimedthattheElardishadusedabagofdirtytrickstointimidateunionmembers,fromstealingtheirsignsandturninghosesonstrikerstodumpingheapsofmanureneartheireat-ingplace.Theytestifiedthatthefamilykeptwatchonthestrikersfromasecretcamerapostedinaroominthehotel,andthatTomElardi,sonofownerMargaret,illegallytapedconversationswithpicketersusingamini-cassetterecorderconcealedinapackofcigarettesinhispocket.Thestrik-ersthemselvesappearedlessmalevolent,butafewyearsagoseveralofthemwerearrestedandsuedforbeatinguptwotouristsfromCalifornia.TheCulinaryUnionwonattheFrontiernotbecausetheunioniseither“right”orall-powerful,butbecausetheheadsofthecorporationsthatnowownmostofthemajorLasVegashotelsdon’tliketheeyesoreofpicketersontheirexpensivelyremodeled,“family-oriented”Strip.Theyweren’tnecessarilyprayingforaunionvictory,buttheydidnot183b cAndreaLamproswantthisawkwarddistractiondefacingtheirprofitabletouristhaven.Oneneighboringcasino-hotelevenprovidedfoodanddrinkfortheFrontier’spicketers.■ ■ ■AfewblocksnorthoftheFrontieronLasVegasBoulevard,thehigh-pricedglamouroftheStripquicklyrunsdry.Justpastthe1,149-foottowerofthefinanciallytroubledStratosphereHotel,onerunsintosmallliquorstores,pawnshops,low-budgetstripshows,andtheheadquartersofLocal226.Thankstowell-publicizedeventslikeitsvictoryattheMGMGrandin1995,itsdoggedrefusaltogiveupattheFrontier,anditsmorerecentbat-tleswithSheldonAdelsonforacontractatthenewVenetian,theCuli-naryUnionhasbecomethestaroftheLasVegaslabormovement.Local226hasmanagedtounionize80percentofthecasino-hotelsontheStrip,whichinturnemployasubstantialfractionofthecity’spopulation.Theunionnowtakesoneachnewmonsterresortevenbeforethefoundationsarelaid.March1997,9AM:workerspacktheupstairsunionhall,fillingmorethantwohundredbrownplasticchairs.Anotherhundredorsoaremillingaboutintheroom’sunfurnishedemptyspaces.Young,old,andmiddle-aged,black,white,Asian,andmixed-race,theyaredressedinWranglerjeanstoppedwithsilverbeltbuckles,blousesandslacks,ortheuniformsofbellmenandwaitresses.Somehavechildrentryingtosquirmofftheirlaps.Onthewall,aneon-orangebannerreads,“OrganizeforOurShareofGaming’sFuture.”GlenArnodo’svoiceboomsfromthepodiumontheraisedstageatthefront.Anothervoice,thatofhisSpanishinterpreterLaloCacias,comesfromthecenteroftheroom,nearfiverowsofLatinoworkers.Caciaslis-tenstoArnodo’swordsandrepeatstheminSpanishasecondlater,punc-tuatinghismorespiritedversionbyshakinghisfist.Eachspeakertriestomakehimselfheardovertheother.“TheElardisaredrunkdriversinthegamingindustry—that’swhattheyare,drunkdrivers,”shoutsArnodo,theunion’spoliticaldirector.“Andit’stimetotaketheirdriver’slicenseaway.”Thelinegetslaughterandbigapplause.SmoothlydressedinablackT-shirtanddarksportscoat,Arnodoknowshowtodeliverthepassionatepeptalksthatarestock-in-tradeintheunionbusiness.VilifyingtheElardisalwaysworkswellatLocal226.184b cOrganizingLasVegas■ ■ ■Inthissamehallamonthearlier,BruceSpringsteen’s“BornintheU.S.A.”rockedtheroomas650workerswaitedtohearAFL-CIOPresidentJohnSweeneysingtheirpraises.“Who’sgotthepower?”unionleaderschanted.“We’vegotthepower!”respondedthefaithful.SweeneytoldtheLasVegasworkersthattheircitywaspoisedtoreplaceNewYork—hishometown—asthe“heartbeatoftheAmericanlabormovement.”“LasVegasisaunioncity.Nowwewanttomakeitaonehundredper-centunioncity,”saidSweeney,asoft-spokenmanknownmoreforhisorganizingthanhisoratory.“IfAmericaneedsaraise,thenthebuckstartshere.”In1998,only14percentofU.S.non-farmworkersbelongedtounions,downfrom35percentinthe1950s.Justtokeepthatshareofthework-force,theAFL-CIOhastorecruit400,000newworkersayear,everyyear.In1995,theyearSweeneydefeatedLaneKirklandforthepresidencyonaplatformofaggressivelabororganization,theirmembershipdeclinedby338,000,toatotalofabout13million.Another92,000werelostin1996.In1998,theirnumberswereestimatedat16million,buttheiroverallpercentageofthegrowingnationalworkforcecontinuedtodecline.SweeneyandtheAFL-CIOpickedLasVegasasthenation’smostpromisingunioncitymainlybecauseLocal226,alongwithLocal711oftheUnitedFoodandCommercialWorkers(UFCW),hasbeensosuc-cessfulatthekindofrecruitingtheAFL-CIOwouldlikeallitsunionstoundertake.TheUFCWunionizedeverygrocerystoreinLasVegasbydevotingmostofitsbudgettorecruitment.Local226hasputmorethanathirdofitstotalbudgetintogainingnewmembersoverthepasttenyears.(Fewlocals,inLasVegasorelsewhere,spendmorethan5percent.)Sweeney’sideaofa“100percent”uniontownwouldbeanimpossiblegoalalmostanywhereinthecountry,inthelightoflabor’ssteadydeclinesincetheorganizingtriumphsoftheCIOinthe1930sand1940s.ButinLasVegas,a“can-do”cityaccustomedtoachievingtheimpossible,itseemsalmostpossible.Accordingtothe1994census,18.4percentoftheLasVegasworkforcewasunionized;JohnWilhelm,PresidentofthenationalHotelEmployeesandRestaurantEmployeesUnion(HERE)andaformerLasVegasorganizer,claimsmembershipintheareaiscloserto30percent.Sixty-fivethousandworkersinLasVegasbelongedtounionsasofApril1997,andthousandsmorearecoveredbyunioncon-tracts.SinceNevadaisaright-to-workstate,unionscannotrequiremem-bershipevenofanemployeeworkingunderacontractwonbytheunion.Insomesense,thisrestrictionmakestheunionsevenstronger,because185b cAndreaLamprostheirworkershavechosentojoinandpaydues—twenty-sixdollarsamonth,inthecaseoftheCulinaryUnion.Butevenmoreimportantthannumbersmaybethesenseofunionidentity,whichseemsstrongerherethaninotherAmericancities.AskacabdrivertotakeyoutoCulinaryheadquarters,andheknowsexactlywheretogo.MentiontheFrontierstrike,andeverylocalcitizenhasavig-orousopinion.Bigdrugstoresinstripmallslisttheunionhealthplanswhosecardstheyaccept.Thatisnottosaythereisnoskepticismabout,evendisdainfor,unionsinLasVegas,astherewouldbeinanycity.ThedifferenceisthatinLasVegas,unionsbecomeatargetforactiveadmira-tionordisgustbecausetheystillholdgenuinepower.■ ■ ■ElmerAltonBramletdroveaLincolnContinental,woreleisuresuits,smokedlongcigars,andrantheCulinaryUnionfortwenty-fouryears.In1977,onhiswaybackfromabusinesstriptoReno,hephonedhisdaugh-terfromMcCarranAirportandtoldherhewouldbehomeinhalfanhour.Hisbodywaslaterfoundinthedesert,puncturedbyseveralbulletholes.Thesixty-year-oldBramlethadreportedlyresistedsomeChicagogangsterswhoweretryingtotakecontroloftheunion’shealthplan.Hehadotherotherenemiesaswell:hotelownerswereupsetoverasixteen-daystrikein1976thathadcostthemanestimated$26millioninlostbusi-ness.Thefederalgovernmentwasinvestigatingseveralmillion-dollarloanshehadmadetofriendsfromtheunion’spensionfund.NobodyknowswhokilledBramlet.ButthemurderthrewtheCulinaryUnionintoatailspin.Bramlethadalwaysbeenthesoledecisionmaker,andhadnotallowedotherunionleaderstodevelop.Fortenyearsafterhisdeath,Bramlet’ssuccessorskepttheirofficedoorslocked.Appointmentswerehardtoget,andcallerswerethoroughlyscreened.BenSweeneyandJeffMcCall,whofollowedBramletassecre-tary-treasurersofLocal226(secretary-treasurerstendtobemorepowerfulthanpresidentsinmanyU.S.unionlocals)weren’ttakinganychances.JimArnoldwasaroundintheBramletdays,too.Butasamatterofprincipleandgoodpublicrelations,hehasalwayskepthisofficedoorsopen.Arnold,thesecretary-treasurerin1997,isfifty-fouryearsoldandhasspentmostofhisadultlifeintheCulinaryUnion.HeisanativeLasVeganwhosefatherworkedinthelocalbuildingtrades,backwhenthatindustrywassolidlyunion.HisfirstjobafterhighschoolwasattheSandsHotel,wherehepickedupanddeliveredlaundry;later,heservedasashop186b cOrganizingLasVegassteward,andhelpedtonegotiatecontractsatatimewhenshopstewardsplayedatokenroleatbest.In1974,ArnoldbecameoneofBramlet’sunionrepresentatives.LikeotherCulinaryleaders,ArnoldgetsnostalgicforatimebeforethecorporatetakeoverofLasVegas’scasino-hotels,whenfamiliesliketheBoydsandtheBinionsrantheirestablishmentslikeprivateestates.MaybetheMafiawasinvolved,theyconcede;butthatwasbetterthanbeingruledbyout-of-towncorporationswhosepoliciesaredrivenbydistantstock-holders,NewYorkfinancialanalysts,andtheeverlastingneedtomaxi-mizeshort-termprofits.“Thesefamily-runcasinosreallybelievedinmakingaprofit.Buttheybelievedthattheworkersshouldgetapercentageofthat,”saysArnold,hisdiamondpinkyringflashingashelightsacigarette.PoliticalDirectorGlenArnodowasshockedwhenhearrivedinLasVegasin1989andheardworkersglorifyingthegoodolddaysofthemob.“Oldworkerswilltellyouthatitwassomuchbettertoworkforthemob,”saysArnodo.“Theysaythatbecause,totheextentthattheremayhavebeenuniontroubles,atleastthemobwasn’touttobusttheunion.”Culinaryleadersinsistthattherearenounion-mobtiesnowadays.Butin1995,aftertwoyearsofnegotiations,theU.S.DepartmentofJusticetookcontrolofHEREbecauseofpersistingevidenceofmobconnectionsandotherabuses.Bytheendof1997,sixteenHotelandRestaurantEmployeeslocalshadbeenaudited,andtenoftheirofficialswerebannedfromunionmembershipbyFederalCourtJudgeKurtMuellenberg,theappointedmonitor,becauseoftiestoorganizedcrime,embezzlement,andotherabuses.ArnoldsaysthatthefederalinvestigatorshadfullaccesstoLocal226recordsandfoundnoevidenceofanythingshady.Infact,aspartofthedealtheDepartmentofJusticemadetoreleaseHEREfromitscon-trol,theunion’sChicago-basedpresidentwasobligedtoresign,andJohnWilhelmofLocal226wasappointedtotakehisplace.(WilhelmalsoservedonPresidentClinton’sNationalGamblingImpactStudyCommis-sion,oneofthree“Industry-friendly”members,alongwithJ.TerrenceLanniofMGMGrandandWilliamBible,formerheadoftheNevadaGamingControlBoard.)MajorchangesintheCulinaryUnionbeganin1984,whenthenationalHEREleadershipsentseveralofitsbestorganizerstohelpsalvageabadlyrunstrikethatpulled19,000workersoutofthemajorStriphotels.Severalofthehotelssettledaftersixty-sevendays;othersheldoutforaslongasfifteenmonths.Sixhotelshirednewstrikebreakingworkers,whothenvotedtodecertifytheunion.“Basically,everyoneinthistown,fromwork-erstocasinoownersandpoliticians,feltthattheunionwasprettywellfin-187b cAndreaLamprosished,”saysArnodo,whocametoLasVegasin1989forwhatwassup-posedtobeasix-monthcampaign.Ifthe1984strikewasalowpointofCulinary’srecenthistory,theMGMGrandvictoryin1995wasdefinitelythehigh.BeforetheMGMGrandHotel—currentlytheworld’slargest,withmorethanfivethousandrooms—evenbrokegroundinLasVegas,thecompanyeducatedjobapplicants(anestimatedhundredthousandpeopleappliedforeightthou-sandpositions)byshowingananti-unionvideoandwarningthemoftheperilsoforganizing.Itthenoffereditsworkersmorethanthegoingunionrates,andanequivalentbenefitspackage.Local226hadtoworkhardtoconvinceworkersthatwithoutaunion,thesewagesandbenefitscouldbewithdrawnatthewhimofthecorporation,underpressurefromstock-holdersifprofitseverstartedtodip.Local226wonthatfight,intheend,bydevelopinghard-coreunioncommitteesinsidetheMGMGrandandusingprovocativestreettacticsoutsidethegoldlionthatguardsthehotel’smainentranceontheStrip.AttheMGMGrand’sgalaopeninginJanuary1994,settoaWizardofOztheme,unionleadersdressedupastheTinMan,theScarecrow,theCow-ardlyLion,theWickedWitch,andDorothyhandedoutflyersdenounc-ingCEORobertMaxey’sunion-bustingtactics.Morethanfourthousandunionsupportersralliedoutsidethegiganticgreen-glass-walledhotel.Theuniondirecteditseffortsnationwideatstockholders’meetingsandotherinvestorgroups.BoldtacticslikethisdroveMaxeynearlyapoplectic,andthenegativepublicitytheycausedhelpedpersuadeownerKirkKerkoriantoreplacehimasCEOin1995.Inhisplace,KerkorianhiredthemorelevelheadedTerryLanniawayfromCaesarsPalace.Lannideclaredthehotelneutralinthebattle,andletworkersdecidewhethertheywantedaunionornot.Theworkersvotedyes.HighofftheMGMGrandvictory,theCulinaryUnionmovedintotheworldofelectoralpoliticsin1996byputtingtogetheradoorbell-ringing,neighborhood-by-neighborhoodcampaigntodefeatincumbentstateleg-islatorSueLowden,owneroftheoff-StripSantaFeHotelandCasino,whichhadalsoresistedeffortstounionizeitsemployees.LowdenhadbeenexpectedtowinbigbeforetheCulinaryUniondecidedtomakeuseofitspoliticalweightandavailablemanpowertobringherdown.Theyvisitedthousandsofhousesandapartments,andbusedunionmemberstothepolls.Theunion’scontributiontothecampaignofValerieWeiner,Lowden’sDemocraticopponent,wasestimatedat$140,000(almostallindonatedstafftime),whichmorethanequalizedthetwocandidates’warchests.Theirvictory(Lowdenlostby9percentofthevote)gaveLocal226theconfidencetostartitsownpoliticalfund,raisedthroughvoluntary188b cOrganizingLasVegasdollar-a-monthcontributionsfrommembers.Theyplantouseittorunhotelandcasinoemployeesforpublicoffice.In1998,theunion’sdoor-to-doorcampaigninghelpedtodefeatcandidatessupportedbySheldonAdelson,ownerofthenew,non-unionVenetianHotel.Onecurrenttargetoftheunion’sefforts—whichtheyhopetomaketheMGMvictoryofthedecade’send—istheARKCorporation,aNewYork-andWashington-basedcompanywhichemploysninehundrednon-unionworkersatseveralrestaurantsinsidethehippestnewhotelinLasVegas,theNewYorkNewYork.Althoughtheimpressive,$460millionhotel,ownedjointlybyMGMGrandandthePrimadonnaCorporation(thetwocompaniesmergedin1999),openedinJanuary1997withaunioncontract,theownershadsubcontractedmostofitsrestaurantstoARK,leadingtheuniontocryfoul.UnionizingARKCorporationemployeeswouldseemtobeacinchcomparedtoorganizingMGMGrand,becauseofthevastdiscrepancyinwagesandbenefits.In1997,atypicalARKkitchenworkermade$5.50anhour;ifshewantedhealthinsurancebenefits,shepaid,outofthesemini-malwages,$50amonthforherself,$100amonthforherselfandaspouse,$200forafamilyofthree,and$500forafamilyoffour.Underthecon-tractsignedbyLocal226andtheNewYorkNewYork,aunionkitchenworkerwouldhaveearned$9.62anhour,andpaynothingforhealthinsurancethatcoversherwholefamily.WilliamSherlock,CEOoftheNewYorkNewYork,toldtheLasVegasBusinessJournalthatsubcontractingwasnotabidtoundercuttheunion,butsimplyacost-cuttingefforttofreethehotel’sbudgetfromtheburdenofrestaurants.(In-houserestaurantsoftenserveaslossleadersforadjoin-ingcasinos;theyhavetraditionallylostmoneyinLasVegasStriphotels.Butthisisgenerallynotthecasewithupscale,“name”restaurants,whetherhotel-ownedorsubcontracted.)KevinKline,aveteranofseveralCulinaryUnionfightsandtheleadorganizeragainstARK,fearsthatiftheNewYorkNewYorkgetsawaywithsubcontractingitsfoodoperationstonon-unioncompanies,otherresortswillfollowsuit.Industryinsidersdisagree.MGMGrandsubcon-tracteditsStudioCafein1996,butreverseditsdecisionayearlater,whenitrealizedthatitwasgivingupqualitycontrolandsufferingasasresult.KlinesaysthatARKmadelessthanamilliondollarsin1996—asumsmallerthanthebudgetoftheunionitself.Hedoesn’tthinkARKhastheresourcestopayunionwages,andhopesthecompanywillbedrivenawaybylaborpressure,leavingNewYorkNewYorktoassumecontrolofitsownrestaurantsatunionwages.“IamabsolutelyconfidentwewillkickARKoutoftown,”saysKline.189b cAndreaLampros■ ■ ■CherylBunchisageneralintheARKbattle,althoughshewouldn’tdescribeherselfthatway.“Myjobistoteachworkershowtostanduptogethertogetwhattheyneed,”shesays;“nottofightforthem,buttoshowthemhowtheycandoit.”Shewasonceahotelworkerherself,wait-ingtablesatCircusCircusandtheExcalibur.BunchgrewupinWildwood,NewJersey,andbecameawaitressatthirteen.SheworkedatarestaurantontheJerseyshoreintheearly1980s,earningtwodollarsanhourplusaboutfortydollarsanightintips.Atthat(non-union)job,shesays,shehadtowait“forthelastdrunktoleave”beforeendinghershift.Herex-husbandpaidnochildsupportfortheirthreechildren,andthefactthatsheworkedinanEastCoastresorttownmeantthatshewasunemployedfourmonthsayear.ShefinallypackedthekidsintohercarandleftforLasVegastojoinhermother,thenawaitressattheSilverSlipper.(Theoldcasino,torndownin1988,waslocatedinwhatisnowtheparkinglotoftheFrontier.)BuncharrivedinLasVegasjustbeforetheugly,drawn-outCulinarystrikeof1984,andwentstraighttoLocal226tofindajob.“Ialwaysthoughtunionworkerswerelikesteelworkers,”shesays.“Ithoughtawaitresses’unionwaskindofbizarre.”Butshecouldnowaffordmedicalcareforherwholefamily—anunattainableluxuryinNewJersey.Bunchsoonbecamearank-and-fileactivist;shewouldprotest,walkpicketlines,andleadmeetingsfortheunion.WhileworkingattheExcal-ibur,shewasactiveinotherunionfights,andgotarrestedalongsidehermotherforactsofcivildisobedience.Twoyearsago,theCulinaryUnionaskedBunchtobecomeafull-timeunionorganizer.“I’mfortyyearsoldnow,”shesays,“andI’vefinallyfoundwhatI’msupposedtodo.”BunchisinchargeoftheEnglish-speakingcooks,waitresses,host-esses,andbuspeopleattheNewYorkNewYork’sAmericarestaurant—ahuge,buffet-styleplacewhereagiantcartoonmapoftheUnitedStateshangssuspendedoverthetables.Sheandherpartner,Ramón,whoisinchargeoftheSpanish-speakingstaff,haveformedaworkers’committeethatmeetsonceaweek.Theyspendoff-dutyhourstalkinguptheuniontotheircoworkers.AttheNewYorkNewYork,asinmostunioncampaigns,thecommit-teestaysundergroundatfirst,inordertoavoidmanagementrepercus-sions.TheAmericarestaurantcommitteesuddenlywentpublicinMarch1997,pinningonunionbuttonsandsendingalistoftheirnamestothemanagersandexecutivesatthehotelandatARK.Suchapublicdisplay190b cOrganizingLasVegascanhelpprotectworkers,becauseunderthetermsofthe1935WagnerAct,it’sillegaltofireaworkerforunionactivity.Evenso,someofthecommitteemembersclaimtohavebeenharassedbymanagement:theirshiftsweresuddenlychanged,theirdaysofftakenaway.Ifaworkerbelieveshehasbeenintimidatedbymanagementbecauseofhisunionaffiliation,hecanfileagrievancewiththeNLRB.Ifsuccessful,hecouldultimatelywincompensation.Ifhehasbeenfiredbecauseofunionmembershiporactivity,theNLRBcanorderhisemployertogivehimbackhisjob—asitrecentlydidattheFrontier.BunchdrivesoutoftheCulinaryUnionparkinglotinherblue“travel-lingoffice”vantomeetDonnaWilson,oneofhercommitteemembers.Wilson’shome,inoneofLasVegas’smanynewplannedcommunities,isdecoratedwithbaskets,shells,andthree-foot-highclassicalstatues.Out-sideisatinyswimmingpool.Inanyothercity,thismightpassforthehomeofamemberofthesuburbanmiddleclass.Wilson,51,isoneofLasVegas’smorethan300,000serviceworkers.TheappealoftheCulinaryUnionforherhasmoretodowithprotec-tionfromagediscriminationthananeedforhigherwagesorbenefits.SinceLasVegascasino-hotelsprefertheirfemaleservingpersonneltobeyoungandattractive,Wilsonfeelsincreasinglyatriskoflosingherjob.WilsonhandsBunchfivenewcardssignedbyAmericaRestaurantstaffersindicatingthattheywanttobecomeunionmembers.Shehasalreadytalkeddozensofhercoworkersintosupportingtheunion,andshetellsBunchthattherestaurantmanagerscalledanimpromptumeetingthenightbeforetopersuadeworkersthatunionizingwasabadidea.CompanyspokesmentoldworkersthatARKhadatwenty-yearleasewiththeNewYorkNewYork,andthatitwouldbefutiletojoin.“Ihadthreebuttonson,”saysWilson,defiantly.“Iwasintheirface.”■ ■ ■WhiletheARKdrivewastheunion’smajorcampaignof1997,Local226isbigenoughtomountmorethanoneorganizingeffortatatime.InMayofthatyear,theunionwasnegotiatingnewcontracts,andpressuringSheldonAdelson,theowneroftheformerSandsHoteltogounionevenbeforehisproposednewthree-thousand-roomreplacement(nowcalledTheVenetian)wascompleted.TheywerealsoworkingwiththeServiceWorkersInternationalUnion(SEIU)intheirbattletoorganizehospitalworkersatColumbiaSunriseHospitalandMedicalCenter,thelargesthospitalinLasVegas.191b cAndreaLamprosAlthoughtheColumbiaSunriseworkerswereintheirsecondyearoffightingforaunion,thehands-onsupportofLocal226boostedtheirdriveenormouslyin1997.TheCulinaryUnionmobilizeditsownrankandfiletogotoSEIU’sdemonstrations,andwrotelettersinsupportoftheircause.ThousandsofpatientsatColumbiaSunriseareunionmem-bers(orrelativesofunionmembers),whichaddsconsiderableclouttotheircampaign.AttheLocal226hallonaFridayafternooninMarch,aboutfortyCuli-naryorganizersandvolunteersshowedupfora“secretaction.”Atexactly11:02AM,dozensofCulinaryorganizers,ingroupsoffourandfive,startedtoenterColumbiaSunriseHospitalcarryingflowersandballoonsanddeliveringthemessage“Hi,we’remembersoftheCulinaryUnion.We’reyourpatients,andwesupportyouruniondrive.”Thedemonstratorshadstrictinstructionstovisitthenursesondesignatedfloors,butnottodis-ruptpatientsorgetintoarguments.Theyweretotalktoasmanypeopleaspossibleandtobeoutofthebuildingwithineightminutes.Backatunionheadquartersafterthe“secretaction,”SEIUcampaigndirectorAdairDammanngotacallfromapro-unionnurseatthehospitalwhosaidthatthestafftherehadbeenorderedtothrowawaytheflowersandballoons.Atthisnews,theLocal226crowdroaredwithlaughterandapplause:theirmessagehadgottenthrough,andmanagementwasmad.B:CHANGINGTHEFACEOFTHEBUILDINGTRADES TOPThepowerfulCulinaryUnionhashadmoredifficultytryingtoworkwithlocalbuildingtradeunionsthanithashadwithitsownemployersortheServiceWorkersUnion.Themen(andafewwomen)whobelongtothefifteenbuilding-tradelocalshavetroubleget-tingalongwithoneanother,muchlessthemaidsandcocktailwaitressesofLocal226.Oneproblemisthat,whiletheCulinaryUnionpridesitselfonitsracialdiversity(itspresident,HattieCanty,isblack,andmanyoftherankandfilearepeopleofcolor),thebuilding-tradeunionscontinuetobedominatedbywhitemenwithexclusionistattitudes.ThisproblemiscompoundedbythefactthatmostofthenewworkersinLasVegasarepeopleofcolor.Latinomencurrentlyfillmostofthenon-unionjobsinresidentialconstruction.Acoordinateddrivetoorganizeconstructionworkers,fromgenerallaborerstohigh-skilledspecialistslikeelectriciansandpipefitters—adrivethatincludesLatinosandblacksaswellaswhites,womenaswellasmen—hasrarelybeentriedelsewhere,becauseofthetraditionaldivisions192b cOrganizingLasVegas(inrace,payscales,andlevelsofskill)amongconstructionworkers.Forthisreason,theLasVegasBuildingTradesOrganizingProject(B-TOP)isbeingwatchedcloselybyunionsandbuildingcontractorsalloverthecountry.■ ■ ■Theycallitthewarroom.It’stheLasVegasofficeoftheLaborersInter-nationalUnion,wheredetermined,angrymensmokeMarlboroRedsandtalkaboutbeatingthebosses.Theroomisnotmuchbiggerthanaone-cargarage.Whenacellularphonerings,fiveguysreachatthesametimefortheirbackpockets.Thenamesofbuildingcontractorsandworkersarescribbledonpiecesofbutcherpaperandtapedtothewalls.Thewarroomhasnootherdecorations,andnowindowstodistractitsoccupantsfromthemissionathand:ashort-term,high-energyrecruitmentdrivetodrawmoreworkersintotheunion.InnortheastLasVegas,whereBonanzaStreettailsoffintotheunde-velopeddesert,agangofyoungorganizersisspendingmostofitswakinghoursinandoutofthisroom,tryingtodofortheoff-StripconstructionindustrywhattheCulinaryUnionhasdoneforStriphotelandcasinoworkers.Severalnationalunions(likethelaborers)havedispatchedtheirbrightestorganizersfromotherU.S.citiestoLasVegastohelpwhattheybelievetobeoneofthemostimportantunionizingdrivesinthecountry.JimGrogan,theleadorganizerfortheLaborers’International,wasworkinginAlabamawiththeAmalgamatedClothingandTextileWork-ersUnionwhenheheardabouttheexcitementinLasVegas.HeleftACTWU,joinedthelaborers,andheadedwest.“Ireallywantedtobeapartofit,”saysGrogan,26,aNewJerseynative.“Laborhasrealizedthatithasgottogetoffofitsass.”HedefinitelyseesthisfacedownbetweenClarkCountybuildingcontractorsandtheunionsthataretryingtoorga-nizetheirworkersasawarasmortalcombat.B-TOPkickedoffinJanuary1997witha$6-millionwarchest:$2mil-lioncontributedeachbytheCarpentersandJoiners,theLaborers’Inter-national,andtheAFL-CIO.Thegoaloftheprojectwastounionizeatleasttenthousandofthecity’sthirtythousandnon-unionconstructionworkerswithinthenexttwoyears,andtopersuadethehistoricallydividedbuildingtradeunionstoworktogether.Constructionworkersemployedinmajorcasino-hotelbuildingandenlargementalongtheStriphavebeenunionizedformanyyears,soB-TOPfocusedontheotherkindsofconstructionthathavecontributedto193b cAndreaLamprosLasVegas’soverwhelmingexpansionoverthepastdecade:theever-spreadinghousingtracts,apartments,andcondominiums,thestripmallsandotherretailcenters,theschoolsandcivicbuildings,thewarehousesandlightindustry,allofwhicharebuiltalmostentirelybynon-unionworkers.■ ■ ■StefoniAragonisoneofthefewwomentoshowupintheWarRoom.Withherheavyboots,khakishorts,silvernosering,andhairpulledbackinaneatponytail,shelooksmorelikeacasualwesterncollegestudentthanafeistyunionorganizer.Thetwenty-two-year-olddaughterofMexicanimmigrants,AragongrewupinLasVegas.Afterhighschool,sheattendedatwo-yearnurse’s-aidetrainingprograminPhoenix,wherehermotherlives.Butshefoundthatshecouldn’tstandthebedpanroutine,soshereturnedtoLasVegasin1996tobecomeabuilding-sitelaborerlikeherfather.SheimmediatelyfoundworkhaulingdebrisattheMonteCarloHotel(thenanon-unionsite).Afewmonthslater,shesignedupwiththeLaborersLocal872andtookaunionjobattheLuxor,wheresheearnedelevendollarsanhourplussixteendollarsforeveryhourofovertime.Asoneoftherarewomeninthissweatyman’sworld,sheputupwithdailytauntsandcatcallsfromherfellowworkers.(“Shouldn’tyoubehomemakingtortillas?”)Butwhenherbossbeganmakingsexualadvances,sheturnedforhelptoherunionrep.Shedidn’texpectTonyValdeztotakehercomplaintseriously.But“thenextthingIknow,he’sonthejobsiteaweeklater,watchingeverything,askingquestions,talkingtomyboss,tryingtogetitstraightenedout.”Shequicklybecameauniondevotee.“WhenIreachedoutforhelp,someonewasthereforme.Iwasprettywowedbyit.Ifeltlikeangelswerearoundme.IsatthereandIjustfeltsoprotected.Afterheleft,Istayedsmiling—likeIwasimportant.Likewhateverhappenedtomemattered.”ValdezwasquicktoseethatAragon—ayoung,bilingualLatinalaborer—couldbeamajorassettotheunion’smembershipdrive.Heencouragedhertogothroughasix-weekB-TOPtrainingprogram,whereshewaschosenasthegroup’sfirstandonlyfemaleapprenticeorganizer.Nowshe’sworkingfifteen-hourdaysandmaking$700aweekrecruitingconcrete-pourers.Noothercityhasattemptedanorganizingdriveofthismagnitudeamongthebuildingtrades—dirt-haulersandfinecraftsmenunitedbya194b cOrganizingLasVegascommonproductbutrigidlydividedbytheirseparatelinesofwork.Ironworkers,forexample,refusetoregardthemselvesinthesameclassaslaborers.ThecompetitionforcontrolofB-TOPmirrorsthecompetitiononthejobsite.Sometrades,liketheironworkers,claimsuperioritybecauseoftheirskills;others,likethelaborers,becauseoftheirnumbers.(Nationally,laborersoutnumberironworkersfivetoone.Butironworkersdemandlongapprenticeships,andearnconsiderablymore.)WhydidthebignationalunionsandtheAFL-CIOdevotesomuchenergyandmoneytosoriskyaneffort—andinLasVegas,ofallplaces?Themainreasonisthesheernumberofworkersinvolved.Constructionisnowthenumber-twoindustryinClarkCounty.Buildersareputtingupnotonlythegiantnewhotelsandhotelextensions,butalsohouses,stores,andschoolsinrecordnumbers,toaccommodatethemorethan5,000newresidentswhomovehereeachmonth.Theabundanceofnewworkhascalledforanabundanceofnewwork-ers,about25percentofwhommaybeHispanicimmigrants,“legal”or“illegal.”Ifthebuilding-tradeunionspermitthisburgeoningworkforcetoremainalmostentirelynon-union(astheSouthernNevadaHome-buildersAssociationwouldprefer),theymayfindthemselvesswallowedupbytheboom,withtheirrelativeshareoftheworkforcedecreasing,despitetheirlockonthehigher-payingjobsalongtheStrip.■ ■ ■Thebuilding-tradesorganizershaveborrowedtheCulinaryUnion’strainingcenterattheHolidayInnonFremontStreettoholdanopenhousefornon-unionconstructionworkers.Oneortworepresentativesfromeachofthefifteentrades,frombricklayerstoroofers,sitsbehindatablewaitingforthemassestoarrive.StefoniAragon,theonlywomanintheroom,ispostedatthereceptiontable,readytowelcometheworkersastheycomeinforthefreebuffetandachancetotalkaboutunions.Byfouro’clock,almostnoonehasshownup.ItlookslikeareadingroomattheChurchofScientology:plentyofeagerbelievers,fewnewconverts.Anhourlater,theroomishalf-fullofmeninoverallsanddirtyworkpants,mostofthemspeakingSpanish.AsIwalkdownthecenteroftheroom,betweentheU-shapedtables,manyeyesfollowme.Anironworkers’repdartsaglanceatme,thenlooksaway.Iholdoutmyhandandintroducemyself;hecanhardlybringhim-selftoreturnthegesture.WhenIaskhowtheopenhouseisgoing,hegivesmeasuspiciousgrin.195b cAndreaLampros“HowdoIknowthatyou’rereallyawriter?”IpointouttohimthatIhavealreadyintervieweddozensoflabororga-nizersinLasVegas,includinghisboss.IfIwereamanagementspy—whichiswhatheappearstosuspect—I’dhavetobeaprettygoodone.It’sclearthattheseworkersaren’taccustomedtoquestionsfromreporters.Untilnow,thenationalpresshasfocusedontheCulinaryUnion,withitscolorfulhistory,itscutting-edgestrategies,anditsatten-tion-gettingmarchesontheStrip.Thereluctancetotalkmayalsoberelatedtotheveryrealpossibilitythatcontractorsareinfactspyingontheunions,justastheunionsarespyingonthecontractors—by,amongotherthings,rummagingthroughtheirtrash.JimRudisil,thefirstB-TOPdirector,aveteranoftheInternationalBrotherhoodofElectricalWorkers,wasunconcernedaboutspiesandreporters;hisimmediateproblemwasgettinghisownhouseinorder.Withmillionsofdollarsathisdisposal,hehiredeighteenfull-timeorga-nizers,thirteenapprentices,andteninternstoworkallday,everydayrecruitingworkersfromfourofthecounty’slargestbuildingcontractors.Eachofthefifteennationalbuilding-tradesunionsdonatedoneorganizertoLasVegastoworkwithB-TOP—almostallofthemEnglish-speakingwhitemenintheirforties.B-TOPorganizersvisitedjobsiteseverydaytotalkuptheunionsandinviteworkerstosmall-groupmeetings,wheretheycouldairgripesabouttheirbossesandtalkaboutsafetyviolationsonthejob.Thesewereheldintheevening,ateithertheLaborers’warroom,theB-TOPoffice,oroneoftheotherunionlocals’headquarters.Theyofferedfreefoodandachancetotalkstrategy.Laborleaderscallthis“bottom-up”organizing.“Thefirstpartisinternaleducation,”saysRudasil.“We’retryingtogetourmemberstoopenup,whichisn’talwayseasy.”LeslieCurtis,NevadadirectoroftheAFL-CIO,saysit’shardtoper-suadelocalunionleadersandmembersinthehistoricallyexclusivebuild-ingtradestowelcomenewrecruits,especiallyamongthelargenumbersofLatinoimmigrantworkerswhoarriveinLasVegasdaily.Theselocallead-ershaverestrictedtheirnumbersfordecades,partlybecauseofinbredsus-picion,partlytoguardtheirnumbersagainstcompetitionforjobs.ThehistoryofracistexclusionisminthesouthernNevadabuildingtradesdatesbacktotheconstructionoftheHooverDaminthe1930s,whenonlywhitemencouldobtainjobs.Familyorotherconnectionshaveoftenbeencrucialinobtainingbuilding-tradesapprenticeships.“Ifthelabormovementwantstosurvive,thenithastobringinthepeoplewhoaredoingthework,”saysCurtis.“Andthepeoplewhoaredoingtheworkaretheminorities.”Curtisisoneoffiftynewdirectors196b cOrganizingLasVegashiredbyJohnSweeneytosuperviseorganizingdrivesineverystate.“Theyarerealizingthattheycannotcontinuetobeascavalieraboutwhotheytrytoexclude.”Afteryearsofsquabblingamongitsconstituentunionsoverhow—orindeedwhether—torecruitnewworkers,thefirstfewmonthsoftheB-TOPcampaignwerefairlyrocky.RuticellbegantakingheatforpayingB-TOPleadershighwagesandforhiringsevensecretaries.JimGroganoftheLaborersUnionwaskickedoutofaB-TOPmeetingforcriticizingthegroup’stimidstart-up.AtademonstrationatPrecisionConcretedur-ingPresidentSweeney’svisit,GroganclaimsthatB-TOPtriedtostealmediaattentionfromthelaborersanddetractedfromthepurposeoftheevent,whichwasintendedtofocusattentiononafiredconcrete-pourerwhohadbeenbeatenupbynon-unionworkers.“Theydidn’tevenknowthisman,”saysGrogan,blueeyesblazing.“Itwasjustaphotoopforthem!”Asthetradestrytogettheirtroopsinorder,theymustalsoworryaboutoppositionfromtheindustry.AtthefirsthintoftheB-TOPdriveinOctober1996,theSouthernNevadaHomebuildersAssociationsponsoredamulti-pageinsertinLasVegas’slargest-circulation(andpro-business)newspaper,theReview-Journal,comparingunionleaderstoCommunistsandwarningthepublicoftheun-AmericanmenaceoftheAFL-CIO’sorganizingdrive.JoanneJensen,aspokeswomanfortheSouthernNevadaHomebuildersAssociation—anumbrellagroupforcontractors,seenbylaborastheirnumber-oneadversaryinClarkCounty—hasalottosayaboutthepres-enceofunionsatcasinosandhospitals,butlittleabouttheirroleinthebuildingtrades;forthemoment,atleast,shewouldappeartobedown-playingtheirthreat.MarkSmith,formerdirectoroftheLasVegasCham-berofCommerce,wasopenlyskepticalaboutB-TOP.“Iwouldbeinterestedtoknowwhattheyarespendingtheirmoneyon,memberformember,”saysSmith.“Idon’tthinktheirsuccesswillbeanywherenearwhattheythinkitwillbe.”■ ■ ■TonyValdez,thelocalLaborers’representative,isbothawedanddis-turbedbythehordesofout-of-townorganizerswhohavemovedintoLasVegasoverthelastfewmonths.Thethirty-one-year-oldSanJose,Cali-fornianativesaysthatafterB-TOPisgone,LasVegaslaborerswillbeleftwithnomorethanhisownunion,Local872.197b cAndreaLamprosIt’s5:05AM.Valdezisdrowsyashepourscoffeeintotheautomaticurnatunionheadquarters.StefoniAragonisslouchedinachairinthesmallkitchenette,stillangryatValdezformakinghergetupsoearly.Acrescentmoonisstillvisibleinthedarksky.AragonandValdezareonanearly-morningmissiontojoinotherB-TOPorganizersatanon-unionemploy-mentservice,whereworkersshowupatdawninthehopeoffindingjobsfortheday.AlBalloqui,whomanagestheservice(called“LaborReady”),hasagreedtopermitunionorganizerstotalktohislow-skilled,mostlyhome-lessworkers,aslongastheyprovidecoffeeanddonuts.LikeahandfulofsimilaragenciesinLasVegas,LaborReadycanquicklysupplynon-unionworkersforshort-termbuildingjobsofftheStrip.Theworkersarepaidfivedollarsanhourtodobasiccleanupjobsthatwouldearnaunionworker$12.77.Balloquidoesn’tthinktheunionsareathreat,soheopenshisdoors.AtLaborReady,acrowdofworkersistalkingtoahandfulofunionorganizers.“Mostofusneedmoneynowtogetaplacetosleeptonight,”saysthetallestmanintheroom.“Weunderstand.We’renotaskingyounottogotoworktoday,”saysValdez,surroundedbyacrowdofrough-edgedmen.Mostofthesework-erscanbarelyaffordameal,letalonethe$500itcoststojointheLaborerslocal.Butseveralworkersappeareagertohearwhattheorganizershavetosay,andfewseemopposedtounionsonprinciple:whowouldn’twanttoearneightdollarsmoreanhour?Amaninthecornerwearingabeigedownjacketidentifieshimself(aftersomegame-playingwithme)asAnthonyJones.“They’replayingadefectiveslotmachine,”Jonessaysoftheunionorganizers.HeholdsaStyrofoamcupofblackcoffee.“Iworkedforthreeunioncompaniesbackeast,buttheyallshutdownandwenttoMexico.Theproblemisnot,‘WillIjoinaunion?’Iwouldlovetobeinaunion.ButeverytimeIgetinaunion,thecompanygoesbye-bye.”Jonessayshe’sjustwaitingforthesummersun;thenhe’lldrivehismotorhomebacktoJuneau,Alaska,wherehespendsmostoftheyear.InLasVegas,heisa“workingtourist”—hepicksupconstructionjobsinthedaytimeandplaysthecasinosbynight.AsitinerantfarmworkersfollowthecropsaroundCalifornia’sCentralValley,manyconstructionworkers,likeJones,cometoLasVegasforsea-sonalwork,orjusttopickupafewbucksbeforemovingon.ButunliketheCentralValley,hereaworkercancashhispaycheckatacasinoandloseaday’spayormoreontheblackjacktablesorslotsinamatterofhours.Some200peopleadaydriftthroughLaborReady;between100198b cOrganizingLasVegasand150findwork.Balloquiclaimsthat20percentofhisworkersalreadybelongtobuilding-tradesunions.Theycometohimbecausetheunionsdon’thaveenoughworkforeverymember.He’sright.AttheLaborersUnionlocal,forexample,fivehundredworkersarelaidoffatanytime.Mostoftheseworkerscouldtakeshort-term,lessdesirableunionjobs,buttheychoosetokeeptheirnamesontheunion’slist,waitingforalong-termgigonsomecolossalStripproject.Inthemeantime,sometakenon-unionjobsandhopethattheirunionbroth-ersdon’tfindout.Aftertheevent,B-TOPorganizersinsistthattheydidn’tgotoLaborReadyinthehopeofsigningupthrongsofworkers,butrathertoofferasortofunionWelcomeWagon.Ifthereisabuilding-tradeswalkoutorstrike,theunionorganizershopetheseworkerswillthinktwiceaboutcrossingtheirpicketline.TheBuildingTradesOrganizingProjectinLasVegaswasoneofthemostimportantexperimentsintheU.S.labormovement’scurrentattempttorecoverfromitsmoribundstate.Withineightmonths,Rudasilclaimed2,800newunionmembers(and255newunioncontractors)inLasVegasasaresultoftheproject’sefforts,aswellasthirty-sevenNLRBchargesfiledagainstemployers—despitetheentrenchedresistanceofgroupsliketheAssociatedBuildersandContractorsofSouthernNevada,whogavelegaladviceandmoralsupporttomemberstryingtoresisttheunions’tactics.Attheendof1998,B-TOPunionsandnon-unioncon-structioncompanies—notablyLewisHomes(thelargesthomebuilderinLasVegas),twoconcretecompanies,andthegeneralcontractorofa$92millionfreewayinterchangeproject—werestillfilingchargesandcoun-terchargesagainsteachotherwiththeNLRB.IfB-TOPisultimatelysuccessful,itssuccesswillresonatewellbeyondClarkCounty.Itmaymeanthatbuilding-tradesunionsacrossthecountryarefinallyreadytoshedsomeoftheirexclusivity,infighting,andwhitebiastoembraceanewandbroaderkindoftradeunionism.■ ■ ■ManythingsthathappeninLasVegasarehardtoimaginehappeninganywhereelse.Thegrowthandstyleofthisone-of-a-kindcityareascuri-ousasitslocationinthemiddleofaninhospitabledesert.Buttheorga-nizers,pickets,meetings,strategies,andwarroomsthathelptocomposetheLasVegaslabormovementcanbereplicatedincitieselsewhere.The“NewLabor”movementheremayhavebeenmoresuccessfulthanithas199b cAndreaLamprosbeenelsewherebecauseoftheuniquenatureofthegamblingindustry(whichisbothunusuallyrichandunusuallyeagertoconciliatepotentialadversaries)andtheastonishingeconomicandbuildingboomithasfos-tered.ButitwasnotgrowthalonethatspurredthelabormovementinClarkCounty.Infact,growthonthisrecordscalecouldhaveallowedindustrytodrivethelocallabormovementintotheground.LasVegaswasanactivistuniontownlongbeforethenationallabormovementtookanynoticeofit.Backinthe1950s,AlBramletwasabletoassurethetown’scasino-hotelproprietorsthathewouldsupplythemwithgoodworkers,andguaranteelaborpeace,iftheywouldrecognizeLocal226.Theowners,whetherlocalfamiliesortheirmobsterfriendsfromothercities,neededthestabilityofaneagerandtranquilworkforce,and(withafewexceptions)paidthepriceofunionization.Thisabilitytogal-vanizealabormovementintheearlystagesofaneconomy,andtoturnitquicklyintopartofthelocalestablishment,remainspartofthehistoryandlegacyofLasVegas.JohnSweeneypumped$35millionintothe1996U.S.CongressionalelectionsaspartofanAFL-CIO“education”campaign.HisinvestmentmayhavehelpedensureanumberofkeyDemocraticvictories;buttheRepublicanstookoverCongressevenso.Considerableattentiontodayisbeingpaidtoyounger,moreactivistunionleaderswhohavebeenwinninglocalelectionsaroundthecountry.“UnionSummer1996”gave1,200col-legestudentsandotheryoungpeopleathree-weekexperienceofunionorganizationindrivesacrossthecountry.MajorchangesinthestatusofAmericantradeunionism—innumbers,power,andnature—doseemtobetakingplace.ButthereisnoquestionthattheAFL-CIOneedsamajorvictorysoon—avictorybiggerthanisolatedcampaignsamongjanitorsinLosAngeles,health-careworkersinSanDiego,orpolicemeninBaltimore.ItneedstocomeupwithanAmericancity—awholecity—thatisonceagainproudofitsownworking-classandtrade-unionidentity.LasVegasmaybeJohnSweeney’sbestbet.200b PawnshopsLENDERSOFLASTRESORTJoeHeimAnthonyBocktakesanenormousbiteofhiscorned-beef-on-rye,pullshimselfoutofhischair,andbeginsspeaking,uncon-cernedwiththecrumbsfallingfromhismouthandthepieceoflettucehangingfromhischin.“You’reajournalist.Askthequestions.Youeverinterviewalawyerbefore?”“You’realawyer?”Bockstaresbackatmeforseveralsecondsbeforeanswering.Heisofaverageheightandbuild,andhisdoughywhitefaceisalmostexpres-sionless.“Well,nevertookthebar,but,yeah,I’malawyer.Finishedwithlawschool.UNLV.ButIstarteddoingthisfull-timeacoupleofyearsagoandIhappentolikethebusiness.Yougotmorequestions?”Bock’shairisdarkbrown,almostblack,partedinthemiddle.Hiseyesaredarkandnarrow,andhehasahabitoflookingawaywhenheistalk-ing.HeisstandingbehindthecounterofJohn’sLoans,apawnshoponNorthThirdStreetindowntownLasVegas.Hisgrandfather,IrvingStarr,openedthestoreintheearly1960s.Bock,29,hasnowtakenoverasman-agerandpartowner.Itismid-December,and“SeasonsGreetings”isspray-paintedonthestore’swindowinseasonalsnowywhite.AgreenChristmastreehasbeen201b cJoeHeimfreshlypainted.Inside,thestoreitselfisplainanddreary.Itsoff-whitestuccowallsarecrackedandpeeling,andtheonlydecorationsareapor-traitofaseacaptainsmokingapipeandayellowingLasVegasSunarticlewiththeheadline“YouCanBetonIt:PawnshopsAbound.”Thegreycar-petingisthinandworn,andtherearewaterstainsontheceiling.Afluo-rescentbulboverheadcan’tdecidewhetheritisonoroff.Goldchains,electronicequipment,necklaces,rings,andwatchesfilltheglasscasesliningeithersideofthestore—itemsthatcustomershavepawnedandneverreturnedtoclaim.Thestoreisempty,yetBockisreluctanttotalkabouthisclientele.Hewantstopreservetheiranonymity,hesays.Whenhefinallydoestalkaboutthem,healternatesbetweenexpressionsofsympathyandbarelydis-guisedcontempt.“Thereisatendencytolaughatpeoplewhoarenotinthebestpositionintheworld,butifyouworkhereandyouunderstandanythingatallaboutlackoffortune,yourealizethiscanhappentoyou.”Afewminuteslaterhesoundslesscompassionate.“I’veseenpeopletryingtopullstuffoffallthetimehere.Wehavepeo-plecomingintryingtotellusallsortsofstories,tellingushowbadallofourstuffisortryingtogetustotakeallsortsofshit.Yourealizetheydon’tknowwhatthefuckthey’retalkingabout.”WhileBockisdiscussingthepawnbusiness,aslender,youngblackmanentersthestore.Bockundergoesaseeminglyeffortlesstransforma-tionfromtough-talkingbusinessmantostreet-talkingsalesman.“What’sup,bro?”Bockcallsoutwarmly.“NothingTony,howyoudoing,”themanresponds.“Ijustcametopickup.”“Yougotthebracelet,right,?”asksBockashescrollsdownacomputerscreen.“…What’syournameagain?”“Antoine.”“Right,right,Antoine.MymanAntoine.ItellyouwhatI’mgoingtodoAntoine,I’mgonnagiveyouaChristmaspresent.Youseethosecolognesoverthereonthewall?Takeyourpick.”Antoinelooksovertoasmallsectionofoneofthedisplaycaseswhichcontainssevenoreightboxesofcologne.“Yeah?Areyouserious?Hey,that’sallright,Tony.That’sprettycool.MerryChristmas.”“Well,weliketotreatourcustomersright,Antoine.You’regonnacomeback,right?”“I’mnotgoinganywhere,Tony.Youtakeprettygoodcareofmehere.”202b cPawnshopsAntoineredeemshispawnticketandpaysbackhisloanplusthe8per-centmonthlyinterest.Afterhewalksoutoftheshop,Bocksitsdowntofinishhislunch.“Likethatguywhowasjustinhere,IknowIcantrust.Afterawhileyougettoknowifsomeone’sbullshittingyou.Ifthey’reB.S.-ingyou,youdon’tplay.Youcan’ttrusteverybody.”Behindthecounter,ancient-lookingledgerbookscollectdustonashelf.Emptycoffeecupsandpaperwrappersaretossedonthefloor.Afewfeetfromthecashregister,andoutofviewofthecustomers,alargehand-guninaholsterhangsfromapeg.“Asapawnbrokerinthiscityyouseepeopleattheirworst,”continuesBock.“Youseemanathisdarkest,becausetheydon’thaveanythinggoing.Theyareattheirveryend.”AsLasVegasBoulevardcrossesSaharaAvenueheadingnorth,thewinksandhissesofthebrightlightsoftheStripgivewaytoadismalcom-mercialstretch.Cheapmotels,run-downstripjoints,anddilapidatedbarsseparatethecheck-cashingstores,quick-loanoutfits,andpawnshops.Bleary-eyeddrunksstumbleonthesidewalk.Anoccasionalpanhandlerapproachesstrangersaskingforchange.WithsignspromisinginstantcreditandE-Zcash,thestorefrontwindowsofferthelastflickeringhopestocasinocasualties.Thepawnshopsstandoutlikeunwelcomeremindersoftheflipsideofthisgamblers’paradise.Inablock-and-a-halfyoupassBobby’sJewelryandLoan(“TheoldestpawnshopontheStrip”),theHockShop(“Wantmoremoneyinyourpocket?Hockit!”),andtheGoldandSilverPawnShop(“Weneverclose.24hours.7daysaweek”).ClosertodowntownandjustoffLasVegasBoulevardisPawnShopPlaza,hometoStoney’s(“Theprestigestore”)andJohn’sLoans(“WeLoantheMost”).Ablockaway,acrossfromBin-ion’sHorseshoeCasino,isPioneerLoanandJewelry,aVegasinstitutionwhereownerBillDrobkinboasts“LasVegasisbecomingfamousforitspawnshops.”AroundthecornerisAceLoans;twoblocksaway,thepro-saicallynamedPawnPlace.HeadingintothecityofNorthLasVegas,thestringofpawnshopsalongtheboulevardcontinueswithBargainPawn(“TheSmartWaytoShop”),EZPawn,andPoorRichard’s.AmassivebillboardforFirstClassPawnandJewelrytriestobeclever:“NeedCash?GiveUsARing.”Apic-tureofadiamond-solitaireengagementringaidsthosetoodensetogetthejoke.Theslogansmightappeartackyortasteless,butLasVegaspawnbro-kers,likepawnbrokerseverywhere,willtellyouthattheyareprovidinga203b cJoeHeimservice.Pawnshops,theymaintain,havetraditionallybeenthelegallenderoflastresortforcustomerswhosecheckingandsavingsaccountshavefinallyrundry,whosecredit-cardcompanieshavespurnedtheirrequestsforanotheradvance,andwhoserelativeshaverejected“IpromiseI’llgetitrightbacktoyou”pleasforthelasttime.CivicleadersinLasVegasaren’tcrazyaboutthenumberofpawnshopslocatedinpopularareasfrequentedbyhigh-rollingtourists.AskaboutgrowthinLasVegasandyouwillhearstoriesoftheexplodinggamblingindustryandthephenomenalrateofhomeandhotelconstructionithascreated.Youwillhearhowithasbroughtaboutnewschoolsandhospitals,restaurants,freeways,laundromats,golfcourses,gasstations.Youwillhearstoriesofa24-hourcityofamillionpeoplethatisexpandingineverydirection.ButeventhoughthenumberofpawnshopsinClarkCountyhasgonefromlessthanadozentenyearsagotoforty-fivetoday,youareunlikelytofindacityorcountyofficialboastingoftheroleofpawninLasVegas’sboomingeconomy.Nomatterhowmuchpawnbrokersobject,theirbusi-nessisstillseenasseedyandobjectionable.JanJones,themayorofLasVegas,doesn’twanttouristsleavingtownwiththeimageofstreetsfullofpawnshopsfloatingintheirheads.InaJanuary1997articleintheLasVegasReviewJournal,Joneswasquotedassaying,“ItisverypossiblethatLasVegasBoulevard’shighestandbestuseisnotpawnshops.TheCitymayhavetolookforwaystobothassistandrelocatethoseintoadistrictthatmeetstheneedsoftheircustomers.”Inotherwords,getthemoutofhere.Oneofthefirstcasualtiesofthe$70-million“FremontStreetExpe-rience,”a1996exerciseincivicglitzdesignedtodrawmoretouristsawayfromtheStripintoDowntownhotelsandcasinos,werethemanypawn-shopsthatoncelinedFremontandadjacentscruffystreets.ThecasinoownersandcivicofficialswhoputupthemoneyfortheFSEdecidedthatpawnshopsdidn’tfitthenewimagetheywereafter,althoughthenudeGirlsofGlitterGulchwereallowedtostay.LongtimeVegaspawnbrokersseethewhentheyencountersuchatti-tudesfromelectedofficials.“Thecityfathersarecrazy,”saysHenryKron-berg,theseventy-seven-year-oldpawnbrokerwhopurchasedthelegendaryStoney’spawnshopin1964.“Theyarenotbusinesspeople.Itseemslikethecitythinksthepawnbrokersareundesirables.Ourbusinessisconductedinaprofessionalmanner.Wearerunningaverycleanopera-tion.Thisisalegitimatebusiness.”PerhapsnooneinLasVegasbelievesthatmorethanSteveMack.Afifth-generationpawnbrokerwhosefamilymovedfromOaklandtoReno204b cPawnshopswhenhewasayearold,MackhassinglehandedlyintroducedanewfaceofpawntoLasVegasandClarkCounty.MackispresidentandCEOoftheLasVegas-basedSuperPawn,thelargestprivatelyownedpawnchaininthewest.ThefifteennewstoreshehasopenedinClarkCountyinthepastfiveyearsarethelocalsymboloftheindustry’samazinggrowthnationally,andhaveestablishedMackasthereigningkingofpawninthisdesertresort.Casuallyyetstylishlydressed,thisaffablethirty-eight-year-oldwithboyishlooksisattemptingtoredefinetheimageofthepawnbrokerwithsingle-mindedenthusiasmandtheearneststyleofaRotarianentrepre-neur.AtSuperPawnheadquarters,locatedafewblocksfromtheStrip’sshimmeringnewcasinohotels,Macksitsbehindanenormousdeskinaspaciousandplayfullydecoratedoffice:atwelve-footmotorizedsurfboardusedinaJamesBondfilmleansagainstonewall;anoversizegolfbagwithSUPERPAWNprintedonitssideinlargeblockletteringrestsinacorner.Macktalkssincerelyandpassionatelyabouthisvisionforthepawnindus-tryandaboutLasVegas,hisownidealofAmericanopportunity.“There’sanentrepreneurcomingtoLasVegaseverysingleminuteoftheday,andtheyarefiguringouttheycanmakealivinghere,”saysMack.“Thisisacan-doplace.Andthebusinessenvironmentisacan-dothinginthesensethattheimagination,thecreativity,andtheexecutionhappenhere.Thebusinessenvironmenthereissoprogressiveandsostimulatingthatitkeepspeoplelikemyselfinterestedinkeepingtheballrolling.I’vebeendoingthisforalmosttwentyyears.ThisplaceisaDisneylandforvisionaries.”AndwhatisSteveMack’svision?Heiseagertoshare.“We’vebeenabletoredesignandcreateabusinessfortheninetiesthatrecognizesthatourcustomershavebeenunderservicedandmisunder-stood.Ourcompanyphilosophyisthatwe’regoingtotakeadvantageofthatknowledgeandgivethesepeoplewhattheyneedanddeserve.We’rebecomingwhatIcallaspecialtyfinancecompany.Asthebiggerbanksconsolidatetheybecomelesscustomer-orientedandthecostsoftheirser-vicesbecomeprohibitivetosomepeople.Othersjustdon’twanttodealwithadepersonalizedbankingsetup.Soourcompanyhasbeenstrategiz-ingexpansionthroughcheckcashing,WesternUnion,moneywiretrans-fers,foreignexchange,and,ofcourse,pawnservices,whichwe’reverygoodat.Nowwe’realsogettingintosellinglifeinsurance,autoinsurance,andannuities.”Inotherwords,SuperPawnisbecomingaone-stopfinancialcenterforlow-andmoderate-incomecustomers.Butthat’snottheonlyaspectof205b cJoeHeimMack’svision.Whilemostpawnshopsdon’tlikehavingtodealwiththeretailendoftheirbusiness,MackhasmadeitthekeycomponentofSuperPawn’ssuccess.Macksaysthatretailsalesaccountfor70percentofSuperPawn’sprofits,andheseeshisstoreseventuallycompetingwithmajor“newmerchandise”retailers.Sometimesthatmeanshavingtobuynewmerchandisejusttohaveitemsavailabletosell.“Wewantpeopletocomeintoourstorestobuy,”saysMack.“Iftheycomeinandwedon’thavemerchandise,wehaveaninventoryproblem.Sowe’llbuyoverrunsandotheritemsjusttohavethemerchandisethatmakesitpossibleforustocompetewithplaceslikeWalMartandCircuitCity.”MacksaysheisnotreallyinterestedinhavinghisstoresservetheneedsoftouristsandgamblersinLasVegas.Infact,heestimatesthatonly5per-centofhiscustomersareout-of-towners.Increasingly,otherpawnshopsinLasVegasarefollowingMack’sleadandmovingawayfromtheStripandDowntown,turningupinnewlower-andmiddle-classresidentialcommunitiesthathavesprunguptohousethearea’sburgeoningpopula-tion.Pawnbrokersarefocusingontheresortcommunity’spermanentpopulationratherthanongamblingtouristshockingaweddingringforalastgaspbetonthecrapstable.InadditiontotheSuperPawnsthathaveopenedonWestCheyenneandSouthDecatur,NorthNellisandEastCharleston,ThePawnPlacehasaddedstoresonWestCharleston,onTamDrive,andinGreenValley,tothesouth.SaharaPawnhasopenedonSouthJonesBoulevard,andFirstClassPawn(ownedbyMichaelMack,Steve’syoungerbrother)onRanchoDrive.AlthoughthefamousoldpawnshopsstilloperateDowntownandontheStrip,andwell-knownplaceslikeDesertInnPawnandCash-4-Ucarryonelsewhere,SteveMack’sstoresnowdominatethepawnlandscapeinVegas.Hisbrighttealandgoldbuildingswithtealandgoldsignsaredistinctiveeveninacityfamedforitsvisualexcess.Infrontofthestores,yellow,white,andtealballoonsflutterinthebreezeabovesignsannouncinga20-percentsaleondiamonds.Inside,thesalesfloorsaredifferentfromthehaphazard,oftenjunkyarrangementstypicalofmanyold-fashionedshops.Depart-mentstore-typesignsdesignateeachsectionoftheimmaculate,brightlylightedstores.Salespeople,politeandsmartlydressed(allthemenwearwhiteshirtsandties),greetcustomersatthedoor.“AnythingIcandoforyoutoday,sir?Justlooking?Okay,well,letmeknowifyouneedanything.We’rehavingsomegreatsales.”Dividersatthesalescounteroffercustomersprivacyastheynegotiateloanswithsalesclerks,tryingtogetatleasttwentydollarsmorefortheir“almostbrand-newTVset.”206b cPawnshopsWithatotaloftwenty-sevenstoresinNevadaandArizona,300employees,andplansformajorexpansioninthenextthreeyears,Mack’sSuperPawnvisionhasgrownintooneofthetenlargestpawnchainsinthecountry.CashAmerica,with300stores,andEZPawn,with250,bothpubliclytradedcompanies,arethenation’sbiggestchains.IfthegrowthofSuperPawncontinuesonschedule,Mackconcedesthatthepossibilityoftakinghiscompanypublicwillbeactivelyconsidered.Asklocalsandexpertswhathasspurredtherapidincreaseinpawnshopsandyougetseveralanswers.SometellyouthatwhenClarkCountyintroducedlegislationin1991thatrelaxedrestrictionsonnewoutlets,pawnbrokersjumpedattheopportunitytoopennewbranches.Otherscitethecounty’shugepopulationgrowth.AlmosteveryonementionsSteveMack.ButthemajorcausesfortheupsurgeinLasVegasarethesameonesthatliebehindtheremarkablegrowthinthepawnindustrynationwideoverthepastdecade.■ ■ ■Theexistenceofpawnchainsmaycomeasasurprisetopeoplefamiliaronlywithsmall,family-ownedpawnshopsinrun-downpartsoftown,butchainstoreshaveplayedamajorroleintherecentgrowthoftheindustry.ThenumberofnewpawnshopsintheUnitedStatesincreasedbyanaver-ageof10percentayearbetween1988and1995,withmuchofthegrowthoccurringinthesouthern,southwestern,andmountainstates.Thetotalnumberofshopsgrewfromeightthousandin1988tonearlysixteenthousandin1996.Mackrelatesananecdotetoshowjusthowfastpawnshopshavegrownincertainareas.“IhaveastoreinAtlanta,Georgia.Iopeneditfouryearsago.WhenIwentthere,thestateofGeorgiahadahundredandeightpawnshops,whichisquiteafew.IfeltAtlantawasafantasticcity,moreliberal,andhadgreatopportunityforpeopleofallracesandcolors.Itwasahigh-interest-rateenvironment[referringtotheratesthatshopsareallowedtochargecustomers],andIhadtoprovethatmystorescouldworkoutsideofthegamingmarket.IfeltIhadtodothatbecausetherearepeoplewho,whenI’mtryingtotellthestoryofSuper-Pawnandgetfinancing,justsay‘Yeah,it’sagreatideahereinNevada,butwhereelseisapawnshopgoingtoworkanybetter?’Ijustknewmyconceptwouldworksomewhereelse,notjustinagamingstate,soItookittoAtlanta.207b cJoeHeim“Now,fouryearslater,therearesixteenhundredpawnshopsinGeorgia.Thestatelegislaturethereiscommittedtoreducingthenumberofshopsandtryingtoreregulate,butitgivesyouanindicationofhowquicklyeverythingtookoff.Eventhoughhavingsomanystoreserodedouropportunity,westilldidverywellthere.Andwewereabletotellourstorysuccessfully.”Inhis1994bookFringeBanking:CheckCashingOutlets,Pawnshops,andthePoor,SwarthmoreCollegeeconomistJohnCaskeyarguesthattheboominthenumberofpawnshopsandresultantusageisdueinlargeparttotheincreaseinthenumberofAmericanhouseholdswithoutbankaccounts.Amongalllow-andmoderate-incomefamilies,writesCaskey,“thepercentagewithoutbankaccountsofanytyperosefrom9.5percentin1977to13.5percentin1989.However,forfamilieswithlessthan$11,970inincome,about20percentofthepopulation,thepercentageoffamilieswithoutbankaccountsrosefrom30percentin1977to41percentin1989.”Caskeyassertsthatasbankshaveincreasedfeesonsmallaccounts,theyhavebecomelessaccessibleforlow-andmoderate-incomefamilies,sopawnshopsandcheck-cashingoutletshavebecometheprincipallendersfor10percentofAmericanhouseholds.“WhatI’vebecomemoreandmoreconvincedofisthatthebiggestbar-rierformostpeopleisnotphysicalaccesstoabank,butfinancialaccess,”saysCaskeytoday.“Thesearepeoplelivingpaychecktopaycheck,andtheyhavenosavings.Theydon’thavebankaccounts,becauseattheendofthemonththeiraccountwouldbezero,andbankswon’tletyoukeepanaccountlikethat.Peoplelivingfrompaychecktopaycheckhavenofinan-cialmarginofsafety.They’rejugglingbills,andanylittleinterruptionorunexpectedexpensecaninterferewiththeirabilitytopaybillsorrentontime.Asaresult,theyendupwithbadcreditrecords.”Anotherimportantfactorfortheincreaseinpawnshopuse,Caskeybelieves,isthattheincomesofworking-classhouseholdshavestagnatedordeclined.“Therearelotsofreasonswhypeoplehavenosavings.Ifyou’reasinglewomanwithtwokidsandyou’remakingsixteenthousanddollarsayear,it’sjustextremelydifficulttobuildupsavings,”saysCaskey.“It’salsotruethatifyou’resingleandlivinginVegasandmaketwentytwothousanddollarsayear,it’snotdifficulttospendallofthatandnotlivethathigh.Youmighthaveacarandanapartmentandjusthavenosavings.Asacon-sequenceofthat,youmayhaveacreditcardthatmayquicklybeatthemax,andatsomepointyoustartmissingpayments.Yougetabadcreditrecord,youneedtoborrowmoney.Yougotoapawnshop.”208b cPawnshops■ ■ ■Pawnisoneoftheoldestandmostbasicoffinancialtransactions.Acus-tomerpresentsanitemtoapawnbrokerascollateralonaloan.Thecus-tomerthenhasafixedperiodoftimeinwhichtorepaytheloan,plusinterest,orforfeittheitem.Theamountoftheloanisusuallybetween10and50percentofwhatthebrokerbelieveshecansellthemerchandisefor,shouldthecustomernotreturntoclaimit.InNevada,themaximuminterestrateapawnbrokercanchargeis10percentamonth(or120per-centayear).Thecustomerhas120daysinwhichtorepaytheloanbeforethepawneditembecomesthepropertyofthebroker.Mostpawnbrokerswillallowcustomerswhocan’taffordtopayofftheentireloantopaysimplytheaccruedinterestafter120days,andrenewtheloanatthesamerate.Ifacustomerpawnsadiamondringwithavalueof$500,thepawnbrokermightofferher$100.After120days,shewouldhavetopay$140,plusa$5handlingfee,togetherringback.Ifshechoosesonlytopaythe$40interest,thecustomerwouldthenbegivenanotherfourmonthsbeforeshewouldlosepossessionpermanently.Overthecourseofayear,theinterestshewouldhavepaidonthe$100loanwouldbe$120,plusthefive-dollarhandlingfee.Pawnbrokersinsistthattheyneedtochargehighinterestratesiftheyaretosurvive,butcustomersandcriticsoftendecrytheseratesasusurious.Insomestates,suchasFlorida,Georgia,Texas,andHawaii,pawnbrokersareallowedtochargecustomersfrom240to300percentinterestayear.Whilenostatesbanpawnshopsoutright,manystateshaveeffectivelykepttheirnumbersdownbystrictlyregulatingthemandtheinterestratestheycancharge.InNewJersey,forexample,pawnshopsareallowedtochargeonly3percentinterestamonth,or36percentayear;thestatehasonlythirteenpawnshops.“Wedon’treallyknowwhathardshipsthatcreates,”saysCaskey.“Arepeoplebetteroffwhenpawnshopsareabundantbutexpensive,orwhenpawnshopsarescarcebutrelativelycheap?Ican’tanswerthatquestion.”Asthepawnindustrygrowsandgainspower,statelegislaturesarelob-biedtoreconsidertheirrateceilings.In1992,whenthemaximuminterestratepawnbrokerscouldchargeinIndianawas,asinNewJersey,36percentayear,thestatehadthirty-eightpawnshops.ThatsameyearIndianapassedanewlawallowingpawnshopstochargecustomersasmuchas276percentayear.Withinsixmonthsthenumberofpawnshopshaddoubled;in1997thestatehadmorethan100.Withits10-percent-a-monthinterestceiling,Nevadaactuallyranksnearthemiddleofstatesinratesthatpawnbrokersareallowedtocharge.209b cJoeHeimUntil1993,themaximumrateinNevadawas6percent;inthatyear,theNevadaCollateralLoanAssociation,thepawnbroker’slobby,foundedbyMackin1981,successfullypushedalawthroughthestatelegislaturewhichraiseditto8percent.Pressureforasecondincreaseledtothelegislature’sapprovalofa10-percentratein1997.Whateverrationalethepawnbrokersprovidefortheirinterestrates,negativeperceptionsoftheirprofessionpersist.Theimageofpawnbro-kersasShylocks,asgreedymoney-grubberspreyingonthepoor,perme-atesnearlyeveryculturalorhistoricaldepiction.InThePawnbroker,a1965filmdirectedbySidneyLumet,thetitlecharacter,portrayedbyactorRodSteiger,isapitilessbusinessmanwhorevileshiscustomers,treatingthemwithcontemptwhile(asanothercharacterputsit)“suckingawaytheirlife’streasuresinexchangeforadollarortwo.”Shotinblackandwhite,thepawnshopinthefilmisagloomylabyrinthofshelvesandcages,andSteigeraprisonerofitsdarkness.“There’saprettygoodportionofpeoplewithnegativeimagesofpawnshops,andtheRodSteigermoviewasveryeffectiveincreatingthat,”saysSteveMack,whobelievesthatchangingthisimageisoneofthegreatestchallengeshefaces.“I’vebeenquotedmanytimessayingthatwe’rethesecond-oldestpro-fessionintheworld,withthereputationofthefirst,”saysBobStogner,chairmanoftheNationalAssociationofPawnbrokers.“Ofcourse,wegotthatreputationunjustly.Butstillwedohavethereputationofrapingthepublic.”Stogner’sgrouphasmadeimprovingthewayAmericansviewtheirindustryitsnumber-onegoal.LasVegaspawnbrokersagreethattheirimageisinneedofanoverhaul.“IsayIownapawnshopandeverybodygetsquiet.It’slikeI’moncrackorsomething,”saidBillDrobkin,who,withhiswife,Erminia,ownsPioneerLoanandJewelry.AnotherLasVegaspawnshopownerisevenmoredirect:“AlotofpeoplehavegotthatNewYorkJew-mentalityimageofpawnbrokers,andthat’stheimagewe’retryingtogetridof,”hesaid.GeorgeBramlett,ownerofBargainPawn,voicesanothercommonpawnbrokers’refrain.“Peoplechargeathousanddollarsontheircreditcardandtheythinknothingofit,”hesaid.“Heretheycomeintoborrowahundreddollarsandsomehowtheyfeelbadjustbecausethey’reinapawnshop.”Nomatterhowhardtheindustrytriestoimproveitsimage,manypeoplecontinuetoviewpawnshopsaseitherdismallastrefugesforthedownandoutor,worse,semi-criminalfencingdumpsforburglarsandmuggers.■ ■ ■210b cPawnshopsPawnbrokersarguethatthedayswhentheirshopstookstolengoodsarelonggone,andarequickwithstatistics“proving”thatonlyasmallper-centageofstolengoodseverfindsitswayintopawnshops.Mostbrokersparrotanindustrylinethatonly“one-tenthofonepercent”ofthegoodsfoundinapawnshoparestolen.AccordingtoStogner,however,“statisticsshowthatwegetlessthanone-tenthofonepercentofthestolenmerchan-diseinthecountry.”Thewordingisonlyslightlydifferent,butthepoten-tialdifferenceinthequantityofstolengoodshandledisenormous.Pawnbrokerscontendthattheyareoneofthemoststrictlyregulatedindustriesinthecountry,andthushavelittlechancetotrafficinstolengoods.ThepolicedepartmentinalmosteverymajorAmericancityhasapawnunit.MarjorieLove,supervisoroftheten-personpawndetailoftheLasVegasMetropolitanPoliceDepartment,saysthat“pawnshopsareanecessaryevil,”butshehasnothingbutpraiseforthepawnbrokerssheworkswith.“Wegetonehundredpercentcooperationfromourpawnshops,”sheinsists,intracingstolenproperty.■ ■ ■“Idon’tdial911.Idial.357,”readsasignbehindthecounteroftheHockShoponNorthLasVegasBoulevard.Whilepawnbrokersdenythattheyknowinglysellstolenmerchandise,crimeremainsatopicofconversation.Withsomuchcashandjewelryonhand,pawnshopsareanaturaltargetforholdups.Whiletheyhaveinsurancecoverage,manyproprietorshaveadoptedtheirownget-toughapproachtocrimeintheirstores.Itisararepawnshopwhereworkersarenotarmedwithatleastahandgun,usuallyholsteredandstrappedtotheirwaist.NoLasVegaspawnbrokerisaspreparedtodealwithcrimeasGeorgeBramlett,whoseBargainPawnshopwasbrokenintotwicebeforehemovedintohispresentlocation,abuildinghedesignedwithsecurityinmind.Theoutsideofthebuildingisguardedbywaist-high,concrete-filledmetalpolestoprotectBartlettfromthelatestfashioninburglary:thieveswaituntilthestoresareclosedanddrivestolenvehiclesthroughwindowsordoorways.Theythengrabasmanyvaluablesasquicklyaspossibleandmakeoffwiththelootbeforepolicerespond.Havingfoiledwould-besmash-and-grabartists,Bramlettconcentratednextonholdupsthattakeplacewhilethestorewasopen.Onarecentvisit,Bramlettledmeintohissecond-flooroffice,fromwhichhecankeepaneyeonthehisentiresalesfloorbelow,frombehindatwo-waymirrorwin-dow.Arackofmorethanadozenrifles,shotguns,andsemi-automatic211b cJoeHeimweaponsstandsnexttoBramlett’sdesk.Bramlettpulledashotgunoffoftherackandpointedtoa4by6-inchopeninginthewallatfloorlevel.“Ifweeverhaveahostagesituationinsidethestore,Icanjustpickupthisshotgun,whichI’vegotloadedwithasoftleadbulletsoitwon’tsprayallover,liedownonthefloor,takeaimandfire.Thatbulletwillprettymuchblowsomeone’sheadoff.”Whenitcomestosecurityissues,SteveMacktakesadifferentapproachfromthatofmanytraditionalpawnshopowners.Heshakeshisheadsolemnlywhenthesubjectcomesup.“Itreallysickensmetohavetoworryaboutmyemployeesgoingthroughsuchatraumaticexperience.We’resensitivetotheopportunityofthathappeningandwetakeprecau-tions.Whenyouwalkintoourstorewehavetwenty-fourhourcamerasurveillance,butwedon’tallowourpeopletowearfirearmsandwedon’thavearmedguardsinanyofourstores.Ifearformyemployees’safety,butIstillwanttocreateafriendlyenvironmentformycustomers.Idon’twantthemthinkingthattheyarewalkingintoaplacethatisanydifferentthananyretailer.”MackalsorecentlydecidedthatSuperPawnwouldnolongersellgunsinitsstores,eventhoughgunsarestaplesatmostpawnshops.“Ijustdidn’tfeelsellingfirearmswaspartofoursocialnature,”saidMack.ButthemoralvoicewasnottheonlyonethatMackwaslisteningtowhenhedecidedtochangehispolicy.“Thatdecisionisgoingtohelpusdevelopandopenourstoresinwhatwecallnontraditionalpawnshoplocations.”Bynontraditionalpawnshoplocations,Mackmeanspartsoftownthatarenotrun-downoreconomicallydepressed.Peoplelivinginpovertymayoccasionallyusepawnshops,but,accordingtoMack,“therealstoryisthatthosearen’tourcustomers.Youneedtotakeouttheword‘destitute’todescribeacustomercomingintoapawnshop.They’renotdestitute;theyjustdon’thaveanymoneytoday.Maybethey’regettingtheirpaycheckonFridayandtheydon’thaveanymoneyonWednesday.Theyneedtogobuybrand-newtiresfortheircarandtheydon’thaveacreditcard.SotheyusetheirTVorstereoorapocketwatchtoborrowahundredbuckssotheycandothatandcomebackinfortydaysandpayussixteenbucks.[Theratewhenwetalkedwas8percentamonth.]Andninety-twopercentofthemdocomeback,sopawningsimplygetsthemthroughthistoughtime.Ifeveryonewasdestitutetheywouldn’tbeborrowing;they’dbesell-ingtogetmoremoney.”MackcanmakehisvisionforSuperPawnsoundlikepartofasocial-reformmovement.“IreallybelieveinwhatI’mdoingandIthinkthere’sarealphilosophicalcommitmenttodosomethinggoodforourcus-212b cPawnshopstomers,”hesays.“Fortunatelyit’snotallmotivatedbycreatingalotofwealthformyself.Ifyoucouldseesomeofthetestimonials,thecus-tomersaresooverwhelmedbyhowthey’retreatedandtheenvironmenttheygointo.Itmakeseveryonearoundherefeelreallygoodaboutwhatwe’redoing.”■ ■ ■Besidestheoldchargesofusuryandfencing,LasVegaspawnshopshaveanotherimagetheywouldliketodisown:theyareoftenseenasoverpricedbanksforgamblers.Somepawnbrokersinsistthatgamblersmakeuponlyasmallpercentageoftheircustomers.Locationisobvi-ouslyrelevanthere;Kronbergguessesthatupto50percentofhiscus-tomerspawnpossessionsinordertocontinuegambling.Playerscanmakelast-chancebetsbygivingupvaluables,fromawatchoraweddingringtogoldteethandevencars.“NeedMoneyFast?CallAutoPawn.”ParachutesandrodeosaddlesareamongtheitemsLasVegaspawnbro-kersrecallcrossingtheircounters.AtBargainPawn,twohumanskulls(presumablyfromamedicalschool,thoughoneneverknows)areproudlydisplayedbyownerGeorgeBramlettas“trophies”inaglasscaseinhisoffice.Thevalueofitemspawnedbygamblersvarieswidely.AtJohn’sLoans,Bockroutinelymakessmallloansoftenorfifteendollars.Attheotherextreme,BillandErminiaDrobkinrememberofferinga$150,000loanonjewelryworthover$600,000toamanwhowaslosingbadlyonthepokertablesatBinion’sHorseshoe,acrossthestreet.Severalhoursafterreceiv-ingtheloan,themanreturnedtolettheDrobkinsknowthathehadlostthatmoneyaswell.EveryLasVegaspawnbrokercantellriches-to-ragsorrags-to-richesstoriesaboutcasinohabitués.“Asapawnbroker,youhearsomanyhorrorstories,especiallyinthistown—becauseofthegaming,”saidBillDrobkin.“Thisisadifferenttown.ThisisnotMiami,friend.ThisisnotChicago.ThisisVegas.”CaroleO’Hare,executivedirectoroftheNevadaCouncilonProblemGamblingandarecoveringproblemgamblerherself,sayssheisgratefulsheneverreachedthepointwhereshehadtoresorttopawning.“Theideaofpawnshopsisfrightening,”shesays.“It’salmostlikesellingyourselfforthesakeofyourgambling.”ForJohnCaskey,thetremendousgrowthinthenumberofpawnshopsnationwideraisesseriousissuesabouttheAmericaneconomy,particularly213b cJoeHeimasitrelatestoworking-classandlow-incomefamilies.Hetalksaboutpos-siblesolutions—consumer-educationgroups,low-incomecreditunions,moreeffectivewaystohelppeoplesalvagetheircreditrecords,increasesintheminimumwage.Butnoneofthese,heacknowledges,will“helpthepersonwhoistrulypoorandjustcan’tmaintainsavings.”Inthemean-time,heconcedes,“There’snopoliticalpressuretochangethewaypawn-shopsoperate.Thepeoplewhousethemaren’torganized,andtheydon’thaveapoliticalvoice.”Caskey’sattitudetowardpawnshopsreflectsanambivalencesharedbymanywhoarefamiliarwiththeindustry.“Ontheonehand,Ithinkthere’sarealproblem,”hesays.“Youhaveherealotofmoderate-andlow-incomepeoplepayingextremelyhighfeesforbasicfinancialservices.Thatlowersthequalityoflifeforfamiliesinrealneed.Ontheotherhand,Idon’tthinkyoucanjustbanpawnshops.Theyarefillinganeed.”■ ■ ■JohnJonesisn’tdestitute,butheispoor.Inmanyways,heisatypicalcus-tomerofaLasVegaspawnshop.Jones,35,movedtoLasVegasfromSanDiegotwoyearsagoinsearchofajob.Heliveswithhiswifeandsonina$450-a-monthapartmentintheshadowoftheStratosphere,theland-mark(and,incidentally,bankrupt)towerwithanunobstructedviewoftheseeminglyendlessoceanofsandandrockthatsurroundsLasVegas.Withhisdark,tiredeyes,longishmustache,andpale,thinface,Joneslookslikeamanwhohasseenhardtimes.Heisneatlybutsimplydressedinablackbaseballcap,aknitshirttuckedintobluejeans,andhightops.Afurnituredeliverer,Jonesdoesn’thaveabankaccount.“Well,Ijustdon’tmakethatkindofmoneyyet.Don’treallyhavethefinancestoopenanaccount.I’mstilltryingtomovemywayupatwork.”Hesaysthathehasonlypawnedhispersonalpropertyoncebefore:severalmonthsearlier,hepawnedahundred-dollarcameraforaten-dollarloan.Threeweekslaterhepaidnearlytwentydollarstogetitback.(Inadditiontointerest,shopsmaychargea“transaction”fee.)StandinginlineataSuperPawnonSt.LouisAvenueholdinganold,beat-upVCRinhishands,Jonestellsmethatheishopingtogetafifteendollarloanforitbecausehisfamily“hadjustrunshortofgroceriesandmypaycheck’snotcominguntilthefirstofthemonth.”ItisGoodFriday,andJoneswantstobesurethathe’llbeabletoputfoodonthetableforEasterdinner.HehasbroughttheVCRtopawnbecauseitistheonlyrealitem214b cPawnshopsofvalueinhisapartmentand“Anyway,Iguesswedon’trenttoomanymoviesthesedays.”Jonesapproachesthecounterwheresignscheerfullyremindcustomersofpawnandloanoptions.“Askaboutauto-titleloans.Yougetthecash.Andstillkeepyourcar!”Othersignsencouragecustomersnottopayofftheirentireloanbutsimplytheinterestdue.“Don’tPickitUp!KeepYourCash!RenewIt!”Theclerkispolitebutfirm.Shecan’tprovidealoanbecausetheVCRismorethanfiveyearsold.“I’msorry,wejustcan’tofferyouanythingforit.”Outside,Jonesisdiscouragedbutnotbitter.WalkingawaywithhisVCRinhisarms,Jonesstopsmomentarily,turnstome,andsaysquietly,“Youknow,nobodyreallywantstopawnsomething,butsometimesyou’rejustshortoncash.”215b SkinCityMaiaHansenAsyoudriveintoLasVegasfromtheairportortheedgesoftown,it’shardtomissthearmyofbillboardsthatconfrontsyoualongeverymajorroad.Giant,garishimagesandverbalinvitationspromisefreeslotsandcheapbuffets,whilelarger-than-lifelinesofdancersgrinfromstaticposesabovethefreeways.Casinoshowroomsofferbeauti-ful,near-nakedshowgirlsin“SplashII”attheRiviera,“EntertheNight”attheStardust,and“FoliesBergère”attheTropicana.Showingasurplusofcleavageforeandaft,thesedancersperformtosold-outhouseswherecustomershavepaiduptofiftydollarsaticket.Onaslightlysmallerscale,theadvertisementforanotherpopularshowcalled“CrazyGirls”isdis-playedonthesidesandbacksoftaxisandshuttlebuses(inadditiontonumerousbillboards);itsportsarowofbarefemalebottomswiththecap-tion“Noifs,ands,orBUTTS.”ButthemoreseriousskinshowslieofftheStrip,outofviewofmostfamilytourists.Onceyouarriveinthecityitself,anewarrayofsmallersignstoutsthetown’snudeandtoplessclubs.Alongwithitsfameasthecountry’sgamblingcapital,LasVegas’sreputationasasexbazaarhaslongbeenakeypartofthecity’sidentity,howevermuchlocalresidentsandcityofficialsdenyorignoreit.YoucanevenpurchaseaguidetocommercialsexinLasVegas—wheretofindit,whattoexpect,andhowmuchtopay.TheUniversityofNevadaatLasVegasoffersacourseon“TheSociology217b cMaiaHansenoftheSexIndustry.”DekeCastleman,managingeditoroftheLasVegasAdvisor,haswrittenafuturisticnovelinwhichsextakesoverasthecity’smainattractionandeconomicfoundation.Somepeoplehavereckonedthat,intime,thelooselydefined“sexindustry”insouthernNevadamayactuallyovertakethegamblingindustryinrevenue.AlthoughsexandgamblingmaybelinkedinthepublicimageofLasVegasasthetwomostcommonformsofcommercial“sin”availablehere,someindustryinsidersconsiderthetwotobeincompetition.Afterall,timeandmoneyspentinsexclubsandonotherformsof“adultentertain-ment”istimeandmoneythatcouldotherwisebespentongambling.Mostofthecity’ssexuallyorientedbusinesses—nudeandtoplessclubs,adultvideo,bookandnoveltystores—arelocatedofftheStrip,butnearenoughthatinterestedtouristscaneasilyfindthem.SeveraloftheseestablishmentslineLasVegasBoulevardNorth,ontheextensionoftheStripthatliesbetweentheresort-hotelzoneandDowntown.MorearestrungoutalongIndustrialRoadandWesternAvenue,northwestofandparalleltoLasVegasBoulevardSouth.RecenteffortsbyClarkCountyandtheNevadaResortAssociation(thecasino-hotelowners’lobbyinggroup)to“cleanup”theStriphaveledtotheperiodicremovalofvisiblesmut,andpromptedhookerstoadvertisetheirwaresthroughoutcallagenciesratherthaninperson.Untilthecitypassedanordinancein1997forbiddingtheirdistribution,leafletsandfly-ersadvertisingmorethantwohundredlicensed“outcallentertainmentservices”—i.e.,room-service“dancers”—werethrustatpedestrianswalk-ingdowntheStrip,byimmigrantworkersearningfivedollarsanhour.Filledwithfull-colorphotosofnakedwomen(theirnipplesandcrotchescoveredwithcoloredstarsandhearts),thebrochuresarenowavailableinfreedistributionboxesonthesidewalks.Theagenciesthatpublishthebrochuresadvertise“privatedancers”whowillperformnudeinyourhotelroom,orforbachelorpartiesorban-quets.ThumbingthroughtheYellowPagesoftheLasVegasphonebook,youwillfindmorethan100pagesoffull-coloradsforthese“AdultEnter-tainers,”mostofwhomareundercontracttoagenciesrunbyahandfulofowners.Oneoutcallagencywasreportedtohavespent$50,000amonthonitsphone-bookadsalone.Protestingthe1997banonflyerdistributionasaviolationofitsrightstofreespeech,anotheragencyownerwasquotedinaLasVegasnewspaperassayingthathisagencyhadservedover33,000customersinthelastyear.Thetwenty-four-personLasVegasMetroPolicevicesquadcallsthemajorityofoutcallagenciesfrontsforprostitution.Throughaseriesofstingoperations,thepolicehavearrestedoversixhundred“adultenter-218b cSkinCitytainers”connectedtooutcallagenciesforsolicitingprostitutioninthepastsixyears.LieutenantCarlosCordierosaysthatthevicesquadisunabletomakearrestswhengirls(assexworkersuniversallycalloneanother)catchontothefactthattheyaredealingwithcops,andleavetheroombeforeanyactualoffertakesplace.Theagenciesthemselvescannotbeheldliable,sincetheyobligethegirlstoworkasindependentcontractors.Anagencygets$100to$125foreachgirlitsendsout,andinsiststhatwhateverservicesshemightoffer“otherthandancing”areherbusiness,nottheirs.Policehavealsoarrestedhigh-endcallgirls—notlistedinfreeflyersortheYellowPages—whochargetheirclientsasmuchas$3,000-$4,000fortheirservices.Butstingoperationsarecostlyandtime-consuming,andinrecentyearsthevicesquadhasconcentratedonthemoretroublingissuesofundergroundchildpornographyandprostitution.(Sixty-eightjuvenileprostituteswerearrestedinClarkCountyin1996,comparedtotwenty-seventheyearbefore.)Soeventhoughcasinoexecutivesandothercity-proudLasVeganswillremindyouthatprostitutionisillegalinClarkCounty(unlikemostothercountiesinNevada),andwillpointoutthattheonce-ubiquitousstreet-walkershavebeensweptofftheStrip,prostitutionremainsamajorindus-tryinthecity.Thecityiscurrentlytryingtotonedownitsimageasasexhaveninordertoimproveitsstatusasa“familydestination.”Arcadesfullofchil-dren’sgames,mini-themeparks,andwaterridesforkidsaresupposedtobetakingtheplaceofFoliesBergèreshowgirlsandcocktailwaitresseswearingthongedleotards.AsecurityguardatWildJ’s,atoplessclub,shakeshisheadindismay.“Thiscitywasbuiltongreed,sex,andgam-bling.Nowtheywanttotakeawayallthegoodstuff!Theyshouldleaveusalone.”■ ■ ■Onethingyouwon’tseeonLasVegasbillboardsorinstreetbrochuresisanadforanyofNevada’sthirty-fourlegalbrothels,threeofwhichliefiftymileswestofthecityinthetownofPahrump.It’sillegaleventoadvertiseprostitutionwithinClarkCounty,foralthoughthebrothelsareonlyanhour’sdriveorcabrideaway,LasVegaswouldratheritsvisitorsspenttheirtimeandmoneyintown.Yetthenumber-oneindustryinPahrumpdependsforitssurvivalonthenumber-oneindustryinLasVegas,andthemillionsoftouristsitattractstosouthernNevadaeachyear.219b cMaiaHansen■ ■ ■Bill’slimoisablackstretchwithtintedrearwindowsandpersonalizedlicenseplates:“4YRPLSR”inthefront,“ITS4PLSR”intheback.Thesun-roofisbrokenhowever,theresultofarecentbacheloretteparty.SevenwomenhadbeenstandingupthroughthesunroofflashingtheirbreaststopassersbyonTheStrip,hetellsme,whenoneofthemslammedintotheedgeandjammedthewindowopen.Itisnowpermanentlyclosed,butthathasn’tseemedtoaffectbusiness.ThebusinesscardsBillpassesouttopeoplewhojustwantridesaroundtownsimplysay“LimousineService.”Buttheonesheleavesinplasticcard-holdersatthetoplessandnudedanceclubsaroundtownarebor-deredbydrawingsofwomendrapedinloosetogas,eachwithonebreastexposed.Thecardsadvertiseservicebetweentheclubs,andoutingstoPahrumpbrothelsforaround-tripfareof$100.BillalsomaintainsaWebsite(called“CathouseLimo”)ontheInternet.“I’moldandfat,”Billsays.“Idon’twanttodealwithotheraggravationsinlife.Thisisaneasywayformetomakealiving.MymainobjectiveistotakemenfromVegastotheranchestogetlaid.”Butasoftenasheshuttlescustomerstoandfromtheranches,Billchauffeurstheyoungprostituteswhoworktheretoandfromthecity,theairport,theshoppingmall,andtheSTDclinicfortheirmonthlyAIDScheckups.HealsochauffeursmanyofthepornstarswhoflyintoLasVegastodospecialfeaturepromo-tionsatthelocaldanceclubs.Aheavysetmaninhismid-sixties,Billhasasoft,warmsmileandajovialmanner.Withwhiteninghairrecedingfromaruddy,roundfaceandoneeyethatdoesn’tfullyopen,hecouldbeanyone’sfather,evengrandfa-ther.AndformanyofLasVegas’sworkinggirls,Billistheonlyfathertheyknow.“Theyneedsomebodytotakecareofthem,”saysBill.“Alotofthesegirlsnevergotthatsortofattention,eithergrowinguporfromtheirboyfriends.”Leeryofthe“boyfriends”whohangoutinparkinglotswait-ingtopickupthedancerswhentheygetofftheirshifts,Billsaysthatmostoftheoneshe’smetdon’thavejobsthemselves.Hethinksthey’renobetterthanpimps.AresidentoftheLasVegasareaforthirty-sevenyears,Billhasdonehisshareofworkinbothofthecity’smajorindustries.He’sdealtblackjackandpokerandtendedbarinthecasinos;healsousedtotendbaratSheri’sRanch,oneofthebrothelsinPahrump.“Ifyou’regonnalivehere,”hesays,“you’vegottoworkintheIndustry.Itellya,it’shardtohearabouttherecessionwhenthere’ssomuchmoneybeingthrownaroundthistown….”220b cSkinCityHepointstothemultifaceted,$460millionNewYorkNewYorkcasino-hotelasavividexampleofthecity’ssurpluswealth.Billraisedthreechildrenhere,andlosttwoofthemhereaswell.Twoyearsago,histwenty-six-year-olddaughterwasstrangledtodeathbyhersecondhusband,whoisnowinprison.Bill’sthreegrandchildrenarebeingraisedbyhisdaughter’sfirsthusband(theirfather)andhisparents.LastDecemberhisson,whowas“inabitoftroublewiththelaw,”diedofagunshotwound.ThepolicetoldBillthathissonkilledhimselfwhenaSWATteamcorneredhiminahotelroom,buthedoesn’tbelievethat.“I’manoldman.They’retheoneswhoshouldbeburyingme,”hesayssadly.“Ishouldn’tbeburyingthem.”Billisheadingoutononeofhisregularrunstopickupsomegirlsjustendingtheirthree-weekworkshiftandgoinghomeforaweekoff.“Home”foreachoneissomewhereoutsideNevada.Hesaysthegirlspre-fertoridewithhimthaninacabbecausetheyknowhim,andhetreatsthemwithrespect.“Mostofthesegirlshaveaverylowself-esteem.Ialwaystellthemthey’reworthsomething.Isay,‘You’llbeokay,thereisanicheforyousomewhere.Iknowyou’rejustdoingthistemporarily.’”AshortwaydownInterstate15,heleavesthehighwayatExit33,aninconspicuousoff-rampthatleadstowardthehighdesertviaStateRoute160.Afterabouthalfanhour,amileagesigntoPahrumpandDeathVal-leyappears,followedbyanothersignofferingfirewoodforsale.Weencounterlittleoncomingtrafficastheroadwindssteadilythroughthehills,thenstraightensintoalong,arrow-liketrackparalleledbypowerlinesandtelephonepoles.“Thisroadhaskilledalotofpeople,”saysBill.“Theyfallasleepatnight.Theroadissonarrow,whentheywakeupandtrytoovercorrecttheirturn,theyendupflippingthecarrightover.”TheNevadaHighwayPatrolrecorded264accidentsontheroadin1996alone.Billisusedtothejourneysincehedoesitseveraltimesaweek,some-timesseveraltimesinoneday.Hedriveswithacontinuouslyreplenishedsix-packofDietCokewithinreachonthefloorofthepassengerseat.Billsayshislimousineservicegivesclientstheopportunitytosleeponthelong,curvedseatinthebackontheirwaytoabrothel,ortodrinkandpartywiththeirfriends—and,ineithercase,leavetheworryofdrivingtohim.OntheoutskirtsofPahrump,wedrivedownsomedustybackroadspastlitteredlotsfulloftumbleweedsandbroken-down,rusted-outcars.Tattered-lookingmobilehomesandsmallshacksgivewaytohuge,lushgreenfieldsoftheValleySodandTurfFarm.Soonafter,theroaddeadendsatSheri’sRanch.ChickenRanch—thesecondofPahrump’sthreelegalbrothels—isnextdoor.221b cMaiaHansenAccordingtoGeorgeFlint,headoftheNevadaBrothelAssociation,ChickenRanchisthemostprofitablebrothelinthestate,followedbyMustangRanchandMustangII,nearReno.Althoughthenumberofworkinggirlsvariesfromseasontoseason—andownersareuncomfort-ablediscussingincomeandprofits—thePahrumpbrothelsemploybetweentenandtwentygirlseach,andpayquarterlylicensefeesof$7,500.TheircombinedfeessubsidizetheNyeCountyHealthandWel-farebudgets.■ ■ ■“She’llprobablyyellatme‘causeI’mearly,”muttersBill,referringtoSheri’smanager.Theone-story,ranch-stylehouseisinconspicuousexceptforsomeshort,whiteGreekcolumnsplantedhaphazardlyaroundthedri-vewayinfront.Atthedrivewayentrance,asolitarypostsupportsaspin-ningredlight,areminderofthered-lightdistrictsofthepast.Asignreads“ValleyInnCocktails,”andabanneroverthedoorpromises“Girls,Girls,Girls!”Bothannouncementslookoutofplaceinthestarklightofmorningandthesequiet,pastoralsurroundings.BillandIwalkthroughthebackdooranddownawindowless,carpetedhallwaywithseventies-stylewood-paneledwallstothelobby.Alargeroomwithafullbarfacesthefrontdoor,itsfloortintedbyared-neonBudweisersigninoneofthefrontwindowsandaBudLightsignintheother.Shadowedbyabroadfan,apooltableoccupiesonecorneroftheroom.Ontheothersideofthedoor,aglassdisplaycaseholdssouvenirmerchandise—coloredcaps(includingoneinarmy-camouflagegreens),T-shirts,andcoffeemugs,allimprintedwiththeSheri’sRanchlogo—andpalm-size“menus”listingsomeoftheservicesthegirlsoffer,thoughnottheirprices;clientscanselectsuchitemsasa“fantasy”package,an“extendedstay,”ora“halfandhalf”(combinationintercourseandblowjob).Nexttothedisplaycasestandacigarettemachineandajukeboxoffer-ingsongsbyOliviaNewton-John,NeilDiamond,LionelRitchie,Cher,andJulioIglesias.Behindthem,asigninbig,boldlettersinvitescus-tomersto“UseYourATMCard!”TheVisaandMasterCardlogosareimprintedbelow;alternatebusinessnames,Ilearned,showupdiscreetlyoncustomers’credit-cardbills.It’snowalittlepast9:30AM,earlyforSheri’sgirlstobeupandabout,butthethreeonleavearereadytogo.Theirpinkandfloweredluggagecompletelyfillsthelargetrunk,andtheysitintheroomyback.Justdown222b cSkinCitythestreet,Billstopsataconveniencestoresotheycanpickupasix-packofbeerandsomemunchies.Oneofthegirlsreturnswithahandfulofsmall,porcelain-faceddollsclothedincolorful,baggyclownsuitsandgivesonetoeveryoneinthecar,includingme.Havinghadagoodmonth,shewasapparentlyfeelinggenerous.Billleansoverandwhispers,“I’llbetchaeachofthosegirlsiscarryingclosetoeightthousanddollars—cash.”Ontheroadagain,back-seattalkturnstoacoworkerwhohadtestedpositiveforsomethingandhadn’treturnedtoworkthatmonth.Beforestartinganewshift,andonceaweekthereafter,alllegalprostitutesinNevadaarecheckedforchlamydiaandgonorrhea,andthey’recheckedonceamonthforAIDSandsyphilis.Atthebeginningofashift,theymustspendtwodaysinthebrothelwithoutworking,waitingfortheirAIDStestresults.AlllegalprostitutesarerequiredbyNevadalawtouselatexcondoms,andtheydo:theirhealth,aswellastheirjobs,dependsonit.Since1984,whenregularAIDStestingbegan,nocasesofHIVhaveturnedupwithinNevada’slegalbrothelindustry,afactGeorgeFlintcitesindefenseoftheinstitution.Thegirls’conversationshiftstoadiscussionoflastmonth’scustomers,andNickycomplainsthatsomanyguyshadaskedforheras“theonewholookslikeMichelePfeiffer”thatshe’sconsideredchanginghername.Sheisthirty-twoyearsold,married,andhastwochildrenagedfifteenandeighteenwaitingforherathomeinOklahoma.(Herhusbandistheirstepfather.)Shestartedworkinginthesexindustrywhenshewasfour-teen.“Imadesomemistakes,butItookcareofmyresponsibilities,”shesays,referringtoherkids.Shespenttenyearsworkingasadancerforenter-tainmentagenciesinLasVegas,doingconventions,banquets,andprivatepartiesbeforesheandherhusband“gotsickofVegas”andmovedbacktoOklahoma.ShereturnedtoNevadatotakeajobatSheri’s,andnowcom-mutestheeighthourshomebybuseverymonthbecauseshehatestofly.“InLasVegas,youdon’tknowwhatyou’regettinginto.It’slotssaferandbetterworkinginPahrump,”shesays.Sarah,sittingnexttoher,nodsinagreement.Sheisinherearlytwen-ties,andhasstraight,shoulder-lengthbrownhair.Aslightgapbetweenhertwofrontteethgivesheramischievoussmile,andlargebreastspushthebottomofhershortwhiteT-shirtawayfromherslightlyexposedtummy.Billconfidesthatshehasjustgotten“anewset.”Asweenterthecity,westopatalightnexttoanattractiveyoungcou-ple.TheothergirlsteaseSarahthatthemaniseyeingherthroughtheiropenwindow.“Flash‘em,Sarah,flashem!”challengesSammy,ashort,223b cMaiaHansenbleachedblondewithkinkyhair,aslightlyupturnednose,andaloudvoice.“ShouldI?”Sarahasks,hereyebrowsraisedandherhandswaveringatthebottomedgeofhershirt.Giggling,theytrytomakeeyecontactwiththemantoseeifheisstillwatching.“Goon,doit!”theyurge.Butthelightturnsgreenandthecarpullsaway.“Shit,ifIhadboobslikethat,I’dhaveflashed‘em,”saysNicky.AftercoaxingBilltopulloverata7-11sotheycanbuyanothersix-packofbeer,thegirlspranceuptothedoorandallowayoungblackmantoholditopenforthem.Theygetavisiblekickoutofthestaresdrawnbythelimousine,andwhentheygetbackinthecartheyarelaughinguncon-trollably.“Didyouhearwhatthatguysaid?”asksNicky,peeringoutthebackwindow.“Hesaid,‘I’msorryIdon’thavenoredcarpetforyouladies,butyousuredeserveone!’”SammyseemsthemostexcitedtobegettingoutofPahrump.Afriendofhersismeetingherinthecitytonight,andshe’snotcomingbackfortwoweeks.“Twoweeks?!”saysBill.“Butyou’reablonde.Theyneedyou!”“Naw,they’vestillgotacoupleofblondes,”shereplies,unaffected.ButbeforeBilldropsthemoffattheirhotel,sheleansoverthefrontseatwithaseriouslookonherface.“Bill,watchoutformetonight.Justkeepaneyeonme,okay?”sheaskshiminalowvoice,handinghimacardwithsomewritingontheback.“ThisiswhereI’mstaying,andthisismyroomnum-ber.That’stheroomnumberofmyfriend.”Billnods,takesthecardandslipsitintoabreastpocketinsidehisjacket.“Okayhoney,I’llwatchoutforyou,”hesayssoftlywithoutturningaround,keepinghiseyesfocusedontheroadinfrontofhim.■ ■ ■Onherfirstdayoffinsixweeks,ahotandsunnyMonday,Amysitsinamotelroomwiththecurtainsdrawnandthetelevisionon.Afteranxiouslypeekingoutthewindowafewtimesandpacingaroundtheroominbarefeet,shealightsonthearmofthecouchandpicksupthephone.“Whereishe?”sheasks,dialingBill’snumberandreplacingthereceiverwhenhisvoicemailpicksup.Sheisexpectinghislimointheparkinglot,readytotakehershoppingforsomenewclothesatoneofLasVegas’smanymalls.Afterdrivingheraroundtoseveralhotelsinsearchofavacantroom,BillhaddroppedAmyoffatthismotelsoshecouldgeta224b cSkinCityfewhoursofrestfirst.“It’snotsobadforeightydollars,”shesays,lookingaroundatthebeige-tonedunit,withitsqueen-sizebedandkitchenette.Amypays$35anightforroomandboardatthebrothelwheresheworks,butshesaysthisplaceismuchlargerandquieter.Andnoonehasknockedonthedoorsinceshearrived.Mostbrothelschargeworkingprostitutesadailyrentof$25-35,whichincludesacookedbreakfastanddinner,andfoodtomaketheirownlunch.ButatonehousewhereAmyusedtowork,theownerchargedextraforallthefood(“likefourdollarsforabakedpotato!”)andmadethegirlsbuyalloftheirworkoutfitsfromhispre-selectedwardrobe.Healsochargedexorbitantpricesfortheirdailynecessities,fromsoapandcondomstopantyhose.“Hethrivesonthegameofmanipulation,”shesays,andstolemoneyfromsomeofthegirls.“Hedoesn’tcareiftheyusedrugs—helikestokeepthemfuckedupsohecantakeadvantageofthem.”Shesayshisbusinessattractsthetypeofgirlswhoaregenerallyirresponsible,andwhoneedthekindofdisciplineandpowerplaythatheoffers.AmyhasworkedatthreebrothelsinNevadaoverthepasttwoyears,butsaysshe’shappiestwheresheisnowbecausetheownerseemsfairesttothegirls.Attwenty-five,Amyhasaround,deeplytannedfacewithafewfreck-les,large,blueeyes,andlashesheavywithmascara.Shehasabroadsmile,whichrarelylastsmorethanasecond;moreoften,herfullcheeksdipbelowthesidesofhermouth,givingherachildlike,poutylook.Sheisusedtobeingcalled“cute.”ThereasonAmyisstayingheretonightisthatshecan’tgobacktotheplaceshe’sbeensharingwithher“oldman”forthelastfiveyears.Hesplittownacoupleofweeksago,whentheybrokeup,andputallherbelong-ingsinstorage.“Yeah,Ihavethisguy.He’sblack,andIlovehim,”shesays.“ButIknowhe’snogoodforme.I’velostalotofmyselftryingtomakehimhappy.”And,sheadds,alotofmoney.Tomorrowshe’llflytoSeattletovisithersisterandmother,butshehasnothingtowearotherthantheclothesshe’sgoton:abright-whitecottonsportsbrabeneathanunbuttoneddenimshirtwiththesleevesrolledup,andapairofloose,jersey-styleshortstiedbelowherexposedbrownbelly.She’sdyingtogoshopping.Shelooksaroundtheroomuncomfortably,andfidgetswiththephone.“Whenyoucomeoutfromworkingforthreeweeks,youfeellikeanodd-ball,”shesays,gesturingattheclosedcurtains.“IguessIgetkindofpara-noid.”Sheplayswiththeponytailthatspoutscoloredblondehairfromthetopofherhead,andalternatelytightensandloosensthewhitecottonelasticbandholdingitinplace.“Youfeellikeeveryonestaresatyou.Isay225b cMaiaHansentomyself,‘No,they’rejustlookingatyoubecauseyou’repretty.’ButIthinktheyknow.”Duringtheirshifts,prostitutesinPahrumpareconfinedtothebrothelwheretheywork.Theydon’tgetoutmuch,excepttogototheclinicfortheirweeklycheckups.“Wehaveaswimmingpool,”saysAmy.“Wegetdrunksometimes.Wehavefun.Butwhenitcomesdowntoit,we’reallinitforthemoney.Idon’thaveanygirlfriends.Youneverreallyhavefriendsinthisbusiness.Youmighthaveyourdrugfriends,orfriendsonthesur-face.Maybeyouclickwithoneperson.Butthree’sacrowd—everyone’scompetition.”LivinginNevada,Amyhasseenhoweasyitistogetcaughtupineithergamblingordrugs,andfeelsluckythatsheisn’thookedoneither.“Somegirlshavetogethighordrunkinordertowork.Idon’t.”■ ■ ■Amybeganworkinginthesexindustrywhenshewasaseniorinhighschool.“Iwasnevermolested.Ihadafucked-uplife,butIwasn’tmolested,”shesaysindefenseofherfamily.Herfatherkickedheroutofthehousewhenshewasfourteen,andafterlivingwithanauntforthreeyears,shetookajobdancinginatoplessclub.“That’swhyIdidn’tfinishschool.Icouldn’tgohome.IhadtodowhatIhadtodo.”Amydescribeshermotherasapoor,hard-coredruguser,“physicallyandmentallyfuckedup.”Hermotherwasfifteenwhenshehadherfirstchild,Amy’sbrother;Amywasbornslightlyafter.Aftertravelingandworkingintoplessandstripclubsinseveralothercities,Amystartedprostitutinginmassageparlorsandprivateclubs.“Let’sfaceit,”shesays.“Lotsofgirlsareprostitutesinonewayoranother.Thisway,it’srighttothepoint.”Itwaseasyforhertomakethetransitionfromdancingtoprostitution,shesays;sheusesthesametacticswithhertricksthatsheusedwithcustomersattheclubs.“I’mreallygoodatdanc-ing.It’saboutseducing,changingandadaptingtoeachguy.Imaynotbethebest-lookinggirlaround,butIcanadapt,”Amysays,lookingdownatherhandsthatcontinuouslyfoldandunfoldanapkinonherlap.“Youhavetoapproacheachguydifferently.”ManytoplessandnudedancersinLasVegas,ontheotherhand,hatetobeassociatedwithprostitutes,andtakeoffensewhenpeoplerefertothemas“sexworkers.”AmyfirstcametoLasVegasafterafriendflewoutheretoworkthedanceclubsduringComdex,theannualNovemberdisplayofnewcom-putertechnologythathasbecomethelargestconventionintheworld.AmongLasVegascabdrivers,sexclubworkers,andprostitutes,thecon-226b cSkinCityvention’s200,000annualattendees—mostlymen—havebecomenotori-ousfortheirfascinationwiththecity’sadultdiversions.Whenherfriendcamehomewithabundleofmoney,AmywaseasilypersuadedtoleaveherjobinaSeattlemassageparlorandheadforNevada;themoneyinLasVegassoundedtoogoodtobetrue.Havingheardthatthelegalhousesofprostitutionweresafeenvironmentsforworkinggirls,shedecidedtogivethematry.■ ■ ■Atthehousewheresheworks,customersviewalineupoffifteentotwentygirlswhoenteradimlylitlobby,declaretheirworkingnamesinturn,andwaittobeselected.Mosthousesofferasimilarlineup;someallowmentominglewiththegirlsatthebarbeforemakingtheirchoices.Amy’shousehasabar,butshesaysthegirlsaren’tallowedtolingerthere.Somehousesrequiregirlstowearfloor-lengtheveninggownsbetweensixandmidnight;beforeorafterthattheycanwearlingerie.Inothers,thereisnodresscode,andtheycanwearwhattheylike.“IguessIgetpickedbecauseofmysmile,my‘innocentface,’”shesays,lightinguptheone-secondsmilewithexaggeratedcharm.“TheysayIlookfriendly.It’sreallyhowyoulookwhenyoucomearoundthecorner.”Someguys,sheadds,arerepeatcustomersandwillaskforthesamegirleverytime;othermenliketotryavarietyofdifferentgirls.Manyareintimidatedandapprehensive,andwillchoosethefacethatlooksmostinviting.AlotofthemonlycomethroughVegasonce,shesays,whichmakestheirvisittoPahrumpsomethingspecial.Whetherornotsheispicked,orattractsrepeatcustomers,Amyhaslearnednottotakeitpersonally.Aftersheischosen,agirlleadsthecustomertoherroomandnegoti-atesafeefortheserviceshewants.Semi-permanentworkershaveroomsoftheirown,whichtheycandecoratewithwhatevertheylike,fromflow-erythrowpillowsandpuppy-dogposterstoleopard-skinbedspreads,blacklights,andPlayboycalendars.Beforeany“activities”begin,allcash,travelers’checks,orcreditcardsinvolvedaregiventothemanager,wholistenstofeenegotiationsthroughintercomsinthebedrooms.Mosthousesfollowthisprocedure,andman-agerswilloftencheckagirl’spersonandherbelongingsforunreportedcashbeforesheleavesforhertimeoff.Likeothergirlsinthebusiness,Amysaysthereisnosuchthingasatypicalcustomer,althoughoneformerprostitutesuggested“acommondenominatorofcuriosityandloneliness.”Localskeepbusinessgoingdur-227b cMaiaHanseningthehotsummermonths,whentheout-of-towntrafficslowsdown;butit’srare,saysAmy,tomeetatrue“desertcowboy,”amanactuallybornandraisedinNevada.Somemenwanttogetinandoutofthehouseasfastastheycan;otherswanttolinger.Somecustomerstrytopleaseher,butAmytellsthemnottobother;shedoesn’tenjoysex,shesays,althoughshehopesthatsomedayshewilllearnto.Inadditiontousinglatexcon-doms,Amysaysthere’sanothersacredruleofthetrade:absolutelynokissingonthemouth.Toomanygermsarepassedthatway.ThemajorityofinternationalcustomersatNevada’sbrothelsseemtocomefromJapanandGermany.Accordingtooneofthebrothelman-agers,theseclientsdroplargesumsofmoneyinthehouses,afactAmyconfirms.Weekendsarealmostalwaysbusy,andeveryoneinthebusinessknowsthey’llbeswampedwhenabigconventionisintown.Amysaysshehasserviceduptotencustomersonherbusiestnights.“Yougetlotsofguysonvacationwhoarejustupforhavingsomefun,butwegetsickostoo—guyswhoareintodominanceandallthat.Theywanttodrinkyourpee,ortheywantyoutoshitonthem.Oneguybeggedandpleadedwithme.Ortheysaytheywon’tcomeunlessyou’repullingontheirballsashardasyoucan,”shereflectswithdisgust,shakingherhead.“Ican’tdoit—Istartlaughing!Oneguywantedmetowearmyhairinpigtailsandsay,‘Hi,Daddy,canIsuckyourdick?’Imean,comeon!They’resick.”Onegirlsheknewhadaguypayher$5,000towalkhimnakedthroughthedesertwithacollarandleash,likeacamel.“Themostnormal-lookingguys—theywanttheweirdestthings.”■ ■ ■TheunspokenhouseminimumwhereAmyworksnowisaround$150,buttheaveragedatepaysherbetween$400and$800.Allfeesarenegotiated.Amysayssherealizesthattosomepeople$150isalotofmoney,andshewilloccasionallynegotiatealowerfee.Atleastonceortwiceaweek,ontheotherhand,shegetsaclientwhodrops$1,000.“Thenathousanddol-larsstartstoseemlikeit’snotenough,andyouthinkyoucangetmore…”shesays,asaknowinglygreedysmirkcrossesherface.WhileconventionsinLasVegasbringinmorecustomers,AmymakesthemostmoneyovertheChristmasholidays,whenmanyothergirlsaregoneandthereislesscompetition.“Thereareusuallyonlysevenoreightofusaround.Mostlywegetguysthatarelonely,orjustdivorced.”Lastyear,Amycleared$95,000.Consideringthatthehousegetshalfofallthemoneyaprostitutenegotiateswithhercustomer,andthatshehas228b cSkinCitytotipthemanagement,cleaners,andkitchenstaff,sheprobablybroughtinover$200,000fortheyear.Notbadforatwenty-five-year-oldwithoutahigh-schooldiploma—andthisisconsideredanaveragesalaryforaprostituteinPahrump.“Ienjoymymoney.Butmoneyistherootofallevil,right?”sheasksrhetorically,shrugginghershoulderswithanotherfleetingsmile.“Onehundreddollarstomeisnothing.Icanspendonehundreddollarsintwoseconds.ButIfigureI’dbettersavealittle.”Shejustopenedherveryfirstbankaccountthisyear.InPahrump,shesays,girlscanstaywithacustomerforaslongastheywant,onceafeeisnegotiated.“Upnorth[i.e.,inthebrothelsnearReno],theyselltimewiththeactivity.There’smorehustlingfromthebarandmorestressinvolvedingettingadate.Guysfromupnorthhavenoclass,”sheadds,sneering.“Theythinkwe’reallthesame.”Ideally,Amywouldliketoworkinthebrothelsixmonthsayearandindanceclubstheothersixmonths.“I’veprobablygotabouttengoodyearsleftinme.WhenitgetstothepointwhereIcan’tmakecustomershappy,thenit’stimetotakealongbreak.”Industryinsiderssaythatmostgirlsinthebusinesslastbetweenfourandtenyears.Eventually,Amysays,shewantstogetmarriedandhavechildren.Atthatpoint,she’dlookforajoboutsidethesexindustry.Butsofar,theonlymanshe’severbeeninlovewithistheonewhojustlefttown.“What’slove,anyway?”sheasksme.“Ithinkyoucanbecontent.There’snowhitepicketfence.Ifyoucanberelaxedandhappy,that’senough.”■ ■ ■Afteranhourofconversation,Amyisfidgety,andtriesagaintocallBill.Thereisstillnoanswer,sowegoouttogetsomethingtoeat.Asshelocksthedoortohersecond-floorroom,ayoungmanbelowlooksupandpullshissunglassesdownlowonhisnose.Heletsoutaslowwhistleanduttersanadmiring“Je-susChrist.”Aswereachthebottomofthestairwayandturntowalkthroughtheparkinglotheshouts,“Wait!Takemewithyou!”hisarmsoutstretchedandabiggrinonhisface.Shelooksoverhershoulderandsmilescoylyaswewalkaway.“Iliketoflirt,”shesays.“Butthat’sall.”Afewminuteslater,aswe’reapproachingacombination7-11andDelTaco,sheglancesdownathershirt,hershorts,andherspanking-whiteKeds,andasks,“DoIlooklikeaprostitute?”Actually,Ithink,shelooksmorelikeabeachgirlfromsouthernCalifornia.Itellherno.“Icanalways229b cMaiaHansentellothergirlswhoareprostitutes.Somethingaboutthewaytheylook…it’seithertheirclothes,theirmakeup,thewaytheycarrythem-selves.Idunno,Icanjusttell.”Asweenterthestore,severalheadsturntowatchAmywalkby.Marchingdirectlytothetakeoutcounter,sheordersaburrito,aque-sadilla,largefries,andaCoke.Thetall,thin,dark-hairedmanwhotakesherordercontinuestowatchheracrossthestoreassheplaysafewfifty-centslotmachines.Whenhernumberiscalled,shegrabsafistfulofhot-saucepacketsandanotherofketchup,throwsthemintothepaperbag,andsnagsafewfriesbeforeclosingit.“Thankyou,”saysthedark-hairedman,staringdirectlyather.“Thankyou,verymuch.”Hewatchesherintentlyasshewalksawayfromthecounter.“Thatguy’satrick,”shewhispers.“Icantell.”Outside,shelookswithdisgustatacoupleofyoungguyswithshorthaircuts,baseballcaps,andathleticbuildswhoclimbintoatruck.Amysaysshecan’tstand“thosecollegefrat-boytypes.Theythinktheyknoweverything.”Butcabdrivers,shesays,aretheworst.“Theyalwayssay,‘Oh,youdon’thavetopay,justgivemeablowjob.’”Itdriveshercrazy.“Espe-ciallyMiddleEasternones.MiddleEasternersingeneral—they’realltricks,everyoneofthem.”Onourwalkbacktothemotel,Amyisquietandcontemplative.Afterawhile,sheopensthefast-foodbagandbeginspoppingfriesintohermouth,oneatatime.“Menarescum,”shesaysflatly.“Ididn’tusedtothinkso,butIdonow.”■ ■ ■ThedressingroomatCrazyHorse,atoplessclubjustoffParadiseandaboutamilefromtheStrip,isdingyandsmall.Ithasonemirrorsplin-teredintoastarburst,renderingabouthalfofitunusable;thereisadirtymakeupcounter,andawallofrustylockerswheredancersstoretheirclothes.Athreadbarepieceofclothhanginginthedoorwayofferslittleprivacyfromtheinterioroftheclub.Louddancemusicbeatsagainsttheclub’shighwallsandceiling,fillingthespacesbetweenthedozenorsocustomersscatteredamongsmalltablesandseatedatthebar.Theyareallwatchingatoplesswomaninveryshortshortsslidesensuouslyupanddownafirehouse-stylepolemountedonthestage.“Watchthisone,”saysGail,noddingtowardsaheftydancerattheendofarowoftables.Thegirlisfacingawayfromhercustomerandrubbing230b cSkinCityherverylarge,nearlynudebottominafast,circularmotionoverhisgroin.“She’llmakehimcome,justwait.”Technically,lapdancersareonlyallowedtotouchtheircustomersin“nonsexualways,”andcustomersarenotsupposedtotouchthedancersatall.Watchingthesetwo,you’dneverknowsuchrulesexisted,andinanycase,aharmlesshandontheneck,arm,foot,oreventhebehindisusuallypermitted.Iftheythinkthetipswillbeworthit,somedancersletcustomersgetawaywithmore;othersmakethemsitontheirhandsduringadance.Inmostclubs,dancersarescheduledtoperformonstageseveraltimesthroughoutthenight,fromwhichthey’llcollecttipsattheend.Duringtherestoftheirshift,theyroamthefloorinbikinis,lingerie,orskimpydresses,solicitinglapdancesortabledances,wherethecustomerpaysforagirltodanceandstripforhim(or,occasionally,her)personally.Thegoingrateisabout$20-25forthelengthofasong,butsatisfiedcus-tomers—orthosewhohavebeenwellhustled—usuallytipmore.Gail,mycompanionfortheevening,runsasmallcostume-jewelrystore,whichisclosedmoreoftenthanit’sopen.Butbusinesshasneverbeenbetter.Inthiscitythatneversleeps,herbestcustomersarejuststart-ingwork.OnThursday,FridayandSaturdaynights,shesetsupshopinthedressingroomsofthecity’stoplessclubsandsellsherjewelrytothedancers.“Theyweren’tcomingtome,soIdecidedtogotothem.”Twobored-lookingblackwomenaresittingatatableneartheentrancetothedressingroom,complainingabouthowslowthingsare.Nooneispullinginmuchmoneytonight.Afewothergirlsstopbythejewelrycasetoseewhat’snewsincelasttime,butnoonebuys.Gaildecidestomoveontothenextclub,hopingtocatchgirlscomingofftheirshiftwhohavemoremoneytospend.MosttoplessandnudedancersinLasVegasworkeight-hourshiftsasindependentcontractors.Inthebetter-knownestablishments,theycanexpecttobringhomeabout$300onanaverageweeknight;onFridaysandSaturdaysthatjumpsto$500.Somepayapercentageoftheirearnings—about15percent—totheclub,whileotherspayanightlyfee(between$30-70)butgettokeepalltheirtips.In1997,aLasVegasattorneyfiledaclass-actionlawsuitonbehalfofthedancers,withtheaimofforcingclubownerstotreatthemasregularemployees,entitledtokeepalltheirtips.AtCheetah’s,thedressingroomissmaller,andchokedwithcigarettesmoke.AssoonasGailsetsdownhertrays,thegirlsareonthemlikebeestohoney.“Oooh,yougotnewrings!”saysoneofthem,hereyeswideningasanexcitedsmilespreadsacrossherface.Fivegirlscrowdaroundthetraytotryonfakepearl,silver,andrhinestoneearrings,necklaces,tummychains,andtoerings.Wheneveroneleaves,anothertakesherplace.231b cMaiaHansen“Itellthemtheygottaglitter,”saysGail.“You’vegottawearjewelrytomakethemoneyoutthere.”Guyspaymoreforagirlwholooksexpensive,sheexplainstothem,andtheylisten.Afteralongprocessoftryingonsev-eralnecklacesandlookingatherselffromdifferentanglesinthemirror,hairupandhairdown,agirlnamedStormdecidesonafifty-dollarrhine-stonechoker.Gailinstructshertotellhercustomersthatshehastomakeenoughmoneytopayforit.Obediently,thegirlrunsoutoftheroomwiththechokersparklingaroundherneck.Withinhalfanhour,shereturnswiththecashinhandandabigsmileonherface.“Itoldhimitcosteighty,”shesaysslyly,andtuckstheextramoneyintoherstilleto-heeledshoe.(AtCheetah’s,dancersarerequiredtowearthree-inchheels.)Anothergirl,justoffhershift,istootiredtopaymuchattentiontothejewelry.Shesitsdownatthemakeupcounter,rubsherfeetforafewmin-utes,thendisappearsintothelockerarea.Shereappearswithherthongbikiniinhand,andproceedstodryitwithahairdryerjustasagirlfromthenextshiftwalksin,pullsherownthongoutofabag,anddosesitheav-ilywithperfume.■ ■ ■ThedressingroomatCrazyHorseToo,onIndustrialRoad,isinawholedifferentleague.Twolongwallsofmirrors,linedwithrowsofglobularmakeuplightsoverbright-pinkcounterswithmatchingcushionedstools,rundownthemiddleofahuge,multichamberedroom.Ononeside,mul-tipletiersoflockersseparatelowpaddedtableswherechiropractorsworkondancers’backsforafewhourseverynight.Therearetanningbeds,hotshowers,andahairstylist,allofwhichareputtogooduse.Akitchenontheothersideofthemirrorsisfurnishedwithalongcouchforcatnaps,atelevisionsuspendedfromtheceiling,andadiningtableandchairs.ThisiswhereMaria,awomaninhermid-forties,servesthedancersahot,home-cookedmealforfivedollarsaplate.ShealsobringsthemBand-Aids,snacks,nailglue,andperfume,andlistenstotheirdailycomplaints.Onoccasion,whenagirlhashadtoomuchtodrink,Mariawillhelpcleanupthemess.Sheworksthelateshiftuntil5AM,andthenreturnstohersixchildrenathome.It’snotaglamorousjob,buttothedancers,Mariaisindispensable.TheyallcallherMom.Acontinuousparadeofgirlsmarchesinandoutofthedressingroom;atleasttwentyofthemarenapping,eating,dressingandundressinghereatanygiventime.Theynonchalantlyrunaroundinnothingbutapairofhighheelsandathongbikinibottom,tuggingitoutoftheircrackorplay-232b cSkinCityingwiththeirhair.Oneortwowalkaroundfullynude,theirseverelyshavedpubichairbarelyvisible.Smalltattoosonhipsandshouldersarepopular,asareanklets,toerings,andtummychainswornaroundthewaist.Underthebrightdressing-roomlights,onecanseetheirover-bronzedchestsandbehindssheddingsmallflakesofdryskin.Bottlesoflotionlit-terthecountertops;thegirlsdousethemselveswithiteverytimetheypassby.Beforegoingbackouttotheclub,eachonebendsoverandchecksherthongedbehindinthemirror.Someonelaterexplainsthattheblacklightsonstagepickupanythingwhite,“includingthesmallestbitsoftoiletpaper.”“I’vehaditwiththisplace,”snarlsagirlwhocallsherselfChampagne,asshemarchesinandflopsdowninachair.ShecomplainstoMariaaboutacustomerwhostiffedher.“Guysherehavenoclass.Theydon’tknowhowtotreatalady.AndIamalady,I’mnotatramp!”Marianodssympa-theticallyandrubsherback.(Twoweekslater,Champagnequitherjob,andwenttoworkasacocktailwaitressinoneofthecasinos.)■ ■ ■“ThegirlshereinLasVegas,thewaytheyhustleistheytelltheguyswhatthey’regoingtogetfortheirmoney….”saysWendy(a.k.a.Chantel),anattractivebleachedblondewithaslimfigureandaquietvoice.“Butalotofthemlieaboutwhathe’sgoingtoget.”WendyworkedasadanceratCrazyHorseToofortwoyearsbeforequittingthebusinessandgettingajobasacustomer-servicerepresentativeinasupermarket.BeforemovingtoLasVegasfouryearsago“forthemoney,”Wendyworkedbothintoplessclubsandasago-godancerinsouthernCalifornia.Withinthreeweeksofarriving,shehadsignedacontractandwaswork-ingfull-time.“InCalifornia,itwasallstagework.Wemadeourtipsfromthebar.Therewasnohustling,orminglingwiththecustomersonthefloor.Here,it’sallhustling.”Onareallybusynight,suchasduringabigconvention,CrazyHorseToocanhaveuptotwohundredgirlsworkingoneshift,andthingsgetcompetitive.“Lotsofguysarejustafterthefantasyofhavingaprettygirlmakehimfeelspecialforthenight,”saysWendy.TheycometoLasVegasforbusi-nessorpleasure,andcuriositydrawsthemtotheclubs.Sometimestheygojustsotheycantelltheirfriendsthey’vebeen.“Onstage,Iwasgreat.I’maveryintensedancer,veryemotional,andIcouldperformwhateverIwasfeelingatthetime,”shesays,smokingacig-233b cMaiaHansenaretteinthegayandlesbianbarwheresheandhergirlfriendplaypoolonWednesdaynights.(Wendyestimatesthat,likeher,abouthalfofthegirlswhoworkatCrazyHorseTooarebisexual,althoughnoonesheknewconsideredherselfsolelyalesbian.)“IenjoyeddoingwhatIdidonstage,Iwasreal.Icouldberaunchy,downanddirty,andguyswouldthrowmoneyatme.Butstageworkistheeasypart.Gettingdowntothenitty-gritty,whenit’sone-on-one,that’shard.It’ssomucheasiertoknowaguyjustwantstotalktoyouandtobewithyou.Mostguyshere,theybuyadanceandthenit’s,‘Seeya!’”Sheholdsupherhandandwavesitwithashortflickofthewrist.WhenshefirststartedworkinginVegas,Wendyhadnoneoftheprac-ticedskillsoftheotherdancers;shesaysshegotherjobonlooksalone.Shelearnedbywatchingotherswork.“Itwasscary—reallyscary.CrazyHorseTooismorefortourists,andthat’swhythegirlshustlesohard.”5Sheworkedthe9PM-AMshift,andafterherfirstnightshewenthomewith$100.“IguessIdidn’thaveanaggressiveenoughpersonality.”Ifshegotnotakersforlapdancesaftercirclingthethreestagesoftheclub,shewouldchangeheroutfit.Onabadnight,shemightchangeuptotentimes.Onlyonce,shesays,didaguyeverapproachhertoaskforadance.Eventually,shebroughthernightlyaverageupto$200,butshesawothergirlstakinghome$300-$400everyday.LikemanydancersinLasVegas,Wendydecidedtogetbreastimplantsinthehopethattheywouldimproveherappeal.Thecity’sphonebookcontainstenpagesofadsforplasticsurgeons,whosebasepriceforsiliconimplantsrunsabout$4,000,butWendyfoundthatinOgden,Utah,afive-hourdrivenorth,theoperationcostonly$2,400.Unlikemanyofhercoworkers,sheregretsthedecision.“Itjustwasn’tthesameafterward.Alotofmyregularcustomerssaid,‘Don’tdoit!’Theywereallassmen—Iwasblessedwithagoodass.Ishouldhavelistened.”Thingsonlygotworsefromthere.Wendyfinallyquitdancingwhenoneofherfriendsattheclubdied.“Iwenttopickherupforwork,andherroommatesaid,‘I’vegotsomethingawfultotellyou.’”Theroommatehadfoundherfriendhangingfromthecurtainrodoverthebathtub,half-dressedforworkinoneofhercostumes,astars-and-stripesskirtandstars-and-stripesReeboks.Hermakeupwaspartiallyapplied.Wendybelievesthatsomeoneclosetothedancerhadherkilled.“Icouldn’tgobacktoworkafterthat.Ijustcouldn’t,”shesays,slowlyshakingherhead.Afterthreemonthsofunemployment,shelandedthesupermarketjob,whereshesaysshe’shappyenough.Butthemoneydoes-n’tcompare.Shestillthinksaboutgoingbacktodancing,butisafraidshewouldbehauntedbythedeathofherfriend.234b cSkinCity“Theworstthingis,Ican’tevenvisithergrave.Herfatherhadhercre-mated,andhekeepstheurnonhismantel.”■ ■ ■“Ihatetoplessclubs,”saysSuzanne,ashort,spunky,green-eyeddancerwithlong,thick,auburnhairandahugesmilepaintedindark-redlipstick.“I’vehadfewerproblemsworkingatnudeclubsthanI’veeverhadattop-lessclubs.Guysattoplessclubsgetdrunk,theygetirritated,andtheywanttoseemore.Buttheycan’tbecauseit’sagainstthelaw.Inanudeclub,thereitis,allspreadoutlikeaTVdinnerforthemtosee,andtheydon’tgetupset.Toplessclubsareawasteoftime.”InClarkCounty,toplessclubscanservealcoholbutcannotofferfullnudity,whereasthefullynudeclubscannotservealcohol.Theoneexcep-tionisthepopularPalaminoclub,inNorthLasVegas,whichfellunderagrandfatherclausewhenthelawwasestablished.Asoneinsiderremarked,“Youcaneitherhaveboozeorpussy,butyoucan’thaveboth.”Manyotherdancerssaytheyhavenoproblemdancingtopless,butthatacombinationofmodestyandthe“badimage”associatedwithfullynudeclubskeepsthemfromstrippingalltheway.Atthesametime,somepros-titutesinsisttheycouldnotdoeither.Theysayitwouldbemuchmoredifficulttoperformnudeoreventoplessinfrontofanaudiencethantohavesexinprivatewithanunknownindividual.“ThegeneralconceptionofLasVegasisthatit’sSinCity,”saysanothernudedancer,atall,leggyblondewithenormousbreasts,araspysmoker’svoice,andsleepydoeeyessetinalongishface.“Butweworkinasafe,enclosedenvironment,andwehaveasupportgroupofcoworkerswithinourbuilding.It’slikeaterrarium.”Thedancer’snameisMona,andsheisintroducedasa“feature”atLit-tleDarlings,theWesternAvenueclubwheresheandSuzannework.It’soneofachainofaboutadozenDejaVunudedancingclubsinlargercitiesacrossthecountry.“Mostoftheguysheretreatuslikewe’requeensoftheworld,”saysMona.“Theyknowwhywe’rehere—tomakemoney.”Andtheyhadbetterbepreparedtospendit.Afterpayingathirty-dol-larcovercharge,themen(womenarenotallowed)cansipnon-alcoholicdrinksfromplastictornadoglassesattenbucksapop;threedollarsofthedrinkmoneygoestothehouse,andseventothegirlwhogetshimtobuyit.Couchdancescosttwentydollars—moreifyouhaveoneintheVIPor“fantasy”rooms—andtipsarealwaysappreciated.LittleDarlingsisequippedwithaVictorian-stylelivingroomforwatchingpornmovies,235b cMaiaHansenindividualviewingboothswithmorethanonehundredpornchannels,andaseriesoffantasyrooms(actuallyjustpartitionedspaces)madeuplikemoviesets,includingabedroom,aBondageRoom,andanOrientalRoom.OnatypicalWednesdaynight,asmatteringofmeninsuits,boysinT-shirtsandbaseballcaps,andagroupofnicelydressedyoungJapanesemenareseatedatsmalltablessurroundingacentralstage.Nearacorneroftheroomsitsapairofbigboysinblackcowboyhatsandboots,Western-styleshirts,andboloties.Theyareslumpeddownlowintheirchairswiththeirlegsstretchedoutandtheirarmscrossed.Thetwohavebeensilentlywatchingdancersperformcostumedstriproutinesonstageforoverhalfanhour,refusingcouch-dancesolicitationsanddancers’requestsfordrinks.Awomaninaraggedleopard-skinoutfitandahugeteased-hairwigstrip-dancestothethemesongfromTheFlintstones;sheisfollowedbyawomaninanEgyptiancostumewhoswallowsafieryswordwithaflamesobigitsetsoffthefirealarm.Thetwoboysremainunfazed.Butwhenalankyyounggirlcomesoutdoingthetwo-stepinared-and-whitecheckedshirttiedaboveskin-tightjeans,withafive-gallonhatrestingonhermassoffrizzybrownhair,thecowboyscometolife.Sittingupstraightintheirchairs,theystarttappingtheirfeettothecountry-westernbeat.Asthedancerbeginstotakeoffhershirt,theyeachletoutaloud“Yee-haw!”andleanforwardforacloserlook.Afterabitmoredanc-ingandafewmorehollers,thedancergivesherjeansafasttug.TheysplitdownthesideseamswithaVelcro“r-r-r-rip,”andgosailingoffstagebehindher.Bythistime,theclubhasturnedintoaroomfullofhand-clapping,yee-hawingmen.Whenthedancerfinallylosesthebikiniunderneathherclothes,thecowboyshavetheirhatsintheirhandsandareswingingthemaroundintheairabovetheirheads.Sheknowswhoherbigtippersaretonight.Oblivioustotheruckusoutfront,Monasmokesanothercigaretteinherchairinthedressingroom,onefootuponthecounterandonekneepulleduptoherchest.“Heck.We’vegotnothingtohide—we’renakedmostofthetime!”shelaughs.Surroundedbyasmallgroupofwomenwhoarealltalking,smoking,orplayingwiththeirhairinthemirror,shelooksateaseinababy-bluevelourbikinitopthat’sseveralsizestoosmalltoholdwhatappearstobeapairofdouble-Ebreasts.Havingstarredin“adultfilms”(shehatestheterm“pornflicks”)forthreeyears,throughwhichsheacquiredasizeablefanclub,Monabecameafeaturedancerthroughabookingagencythattrainedhertodanceattoplessandnudeclubsaroundthecountry.Whenshegottiredoftravel-ing,sheandherhusbanddecidedtomovetoLasVegas,wheresheretired236b cSkinCityfromfilmsandtookupdancingpermanently.ShenowmaintainsherownWebsite(whichherhusbandhelpedhercreate),whereshesellshervideos,aswellasT-shirtsandvariousotherparaphernaliaimprintedwithherimage.Shesaysitgetsmorethantenthousandhitsaday,andthatherfanclubisbiggerthanever.Butattwenty-eight,sheregardsherselfoneofthe“dinosaurs”ofthebusiness.Mostdancersarebetweeneighteenandtwenty-three,andMonafindsitfunnythatpeoplestillwanttoseeherdanceatherage.Sheisalsoonemonthpregnant.“InLasVegas,mostofthepeoplewedealwithareinandoutofhere.They’retravelingalot,”shesays,shruggingthemofflikeflies.“They’rekindoflikecheapdates—youseethemonenight,andthenyouneverhavetoseethemagain!”Inamonthorso,whenherpregnancybecomesmoreobvious,shewon’tbecomingback.“ThedifferencebetweenworkinginLasVegasandworkinginotherplacesisthis,”chimesinhergreen-eyedfriendSuzanne:“Money,money,money,money,money!”Sheflashesafiendishgrin.“Otherplacesarebogusincomparison.”Standingjustfourfeet,teninchestallinablack,sleeveless,body-huggingdressthataccentuatesherownremarkablebreasts,Suzannehasasurprisinglycommandingpresenceinthesnug,crowdedroom.Inthebusinessforovertenyears,shewasMona’sdancetrainerwhenthetwoworkedforabookingagency,andisnowherroom-mateandbestfriend.ThetwoshareatownhouseinSummerlin,anewresidentialsuburbabouttwentyminutesnorthwestofthecity,withMona’shusband,apetferret,andtwoprairiedogs.“IenjoywhatIdo.Ichoseitasmyprofession,”saysSuzanne.“EversinceIwasalittlegirl,I’vealways,mywholelife,wantedtobeanactressoranentertainer.Itwasmydream.”Standingnexttoher,athin,fair-skinnedtwenty-two-year-oldwithlong,curlyblondehairsaysshespendstendaysatatimeworkinginLasVegasfollowedbytendaysinOhio,wheresheliveswithherboyfriend.“IwillnotworkinOhio.Thedanceclubstherearebasicallywhorehouses.Andthey’reextremelyracist.”SheearnsenoughmoneyatLittleDarlingstomakehercommuteworththetrouble.“Contrarytopopularmyth,theaveragecustomerwhocomesintoaclubhereisnotadirtyoldman,”saysMona.“He’ssomeonewho’snotget-tingattentionfromhiswifeathome.Youknow,he’sgotthreekids,thesexdriveisgone,andhejustwantssomebodytopayalittleattentiontohim.”“Themajorityofthemarejustouttohaveagoodtime,alittleR-and-R.Theywanttoletloose,”saysSuzanne.“Theydon’thaveanyperver-sions,there’snothingwrongwiththem.Theydon’twanttotakeyouhome—theymaytry,butthey’rejustdoingitforlaughs.Theywanttoyuk237b cMaiaHansenitupforthenight.Sowhat?IfIcanmakethemlaughfortwentyminutes,hey,I’minthere.Myjobisdone.”Well,almost.AsineveryLasVegasstripclub,ifadancerwantstogohomewithmorethanhertips,she’sgottogooutandearnithustlingthefloor.Tokeepthemoneyflowing,LittleDarlingshasa“blue-light”breakeveryhalf-hourorso:thestageshowstops,spinningbluelightsflashthroughouttheclub,andallthegirlshavetobeoutonthefloorworkingthecustomersone-on-one.Theyeitherputthemselvesondis-playbystandingonthetablesanddancing,ortheyapproachcustomersindividually.■ ■ ■AnumberofDejaVu’s“littledarlings”havehusbands,fiancés,orsteadyboyfriends,thoughmostofthosewithchildrenseemtoberaisingthemontheirown.Theirpartnersaremoreoftenthannotmanagers,discjock-eys,bartenders,orownersatothernudeandtoplessdanceclubs.Onegirlwhohaddatedaguynotinthebusinesssaiditdidn’tworkoutbecausehewasconstantlyputdownbyhisfriendsforhavingastripperforagirl-friend.“Thisislikeourownlittleclub,”saysMona.“Wedon’tminglemuchwithpeopleontheoutside.”HerownhusbandisadeejayattheotherDejaVuclubintown.“Andit’sveryhardtohavefemalefriendswhoaren’tinthebusiness.”Mostpeopleontheoutside,sheexplains,don’tunder-standorcan’trelatetotheirlifestyles,nottomentiontheirworkinghours.Andthedancersthemselvesfeelsomewhatisolatedfromtherestoftheworld;theyhaveunlistedphonenumbersandaddresses,andtheirdriver’slicensesshowonlyapost-officebox.“Outsideoftheclub,”saysMona,“mostofusaresomodest.Wedon’tgoout,wedon’tparty,wedon’twearmakeup.AndIneverdresstoshowthatIhavelargebreasts.”“Ourstagenamesrepresentatotallydifferentpersonalityfromwhoweareinreallife.WeareTOTALLYnotthesameperson,”addsanotherwoman.“Wewalkdifferently,wetalkdifferently,andobviouslywedressdifferently.”Asinglemotherwiththreeyoungkids,herspecialtyattheclubistheShowerRoom,wherefortwentydollarsasongcustomersgettorinseoffasoaped-upgirlwithahose.Thisactivityisadvertisedonanelectronicsigninside:“AreyoumanenoughtowashoffourLittleDar-lings?”Themessageflashesrepeatedlyacrossthescreen.“DuringComdex,”shesays,“Ihaduptosixtyguysintheshowerroom.Thelinetogetintotheclubwentcleararoundthecorner.”238b cSkinCity“Conventionsarethebomb,”agreesMona.“Butwegetpissedoffandjealousofthegirlswhocomeinjusttoworkconventions.”MostclubsinLasVegashaveasteadystockof“weekendwarriors,”womenwhocom-mutefromallacrossthecountryjusttoworkweekendsandconventionsbecausethemoneyissogood.Manyofthemworkacontinuouscircuit,followingconventionsfromcitytocity.AccordingtoLasVegaspolice,callgirlsandprostitutesdothesame.Whilemostdancersadmittheyworkintoplessandnudeclubsforthemoney,theyoftenclaimtobedoingiteithertoraisechildrenortopayforaneducation.Andwhiletheysaythatmostcustomerstreatthemwithrespect,dancersgettiredofbeingpropositioned.ThereareclubsinLasVegaswhere,accordingtopolice,girlsturntrickseverynight;butthisisobviouslynotthecaseeverywhere.Everydancerhasatleastonestorytoexplainwhyshedeservestomakeasmuchmoneyasshedoes:dancershavebeenbitten,slapped,punched,andcallednamestheywouldn’trepeat.“Oneguyactuallyaskedme,‘Whathappensifmydickaccidentallyendsupinyourpussy?’”saidonegirl.“Itoldhim,‘Thenmyshoelandsinyourdick!’”Monarollshereyes.“Wehavetodealwithstupidquestionsalot.Thisoneguyaskedme,‘IfIgiveyoufivedollarsmore,canIlickyou?’”Shesneers.“Right!Like‘Oh,thatfivedollarsisreallygoingtomakemyday!’”Shethengrabsthefair-skinnedblondeandinsiststhatshetellhertale.Reluctantatfirst,thegirlgivesintohercoworkers’pleasanddescribesanincidentthatoccurredwhenshewasdoingacouchdance.Thesedances(whichdon’tactuallyinvolveacouch)areperformedinsideaphonebooth-sizecubiclewithapaddedbenchforthecustomerononeside(partlyhiddenbyanouterpartition),andametalbarrunningacrossthetopoftheother.Inthisconfinedspace,thegirl—eitherstanding,mountingthebench,orhangingfromthebar—dances,shimmies,slith-ers,wrigglesandshakesherbreastsandbehind,sometimeswrappingherlegsaroundthecustomer’sneckorbrushingherbarefleshoverhisface.Thedancercangetasclosetohercustomerasshewants;butonceagain,heisnotsupposedtotouchherinanysexualway.Justbeforetheendofherdance,whenthedancerwaslookingintheotherdirection,hercustomerpulledoutalollipopandtriedtoshoveitupherrear.Sheyelledforoneofthesecurityworkers,andthemanwasescortedoutthedoor.“Theworstpartwas,hewaslickingitonhiswayout.”■ ■ ■239b cMaiaHansenAnonlychild,SuzannewasraisedmostlybyherfatherandstepmotherinatrailerparkinOhio.“Itwasniceenough,butitwasatrailerpark.Iworegarage-saleclothestoschool,andtheotherkidsmadefunofmebecause,basically,Iwaswearingtheirhand-me-downs.”Shetookice-skatingandgymnasticsasakid,andthendancelessonswhenshegotolder.Inhighschool,whenshethoughtshewantedtobecomeanattorney,shebegantakingcollegecoursesforcreditandgotajobasatoplessdancertopayhertuition.Butafterclubmanagersrepeat-edlyyelledatherforstudyingonthejob,shequitschoolandwentintodancingfull-time.Bothsetsofparentssupportedherambitions.“Myparentslovetowatchmeperform.Mymomevenwentwithmetomyfirstaudition.Sheaskedme,‘Doyouthinkyoucandothat?’andIsaid,‘Idon’tknowifIcangetnaked,Mom.’Mykneesshooksohard,Idon’trememberdancing.”Afterworkingintoplessclubsforafewyears,sheauditionedforCats,KingsIsland,andDisneyWorld.“AtDisneyWorld,alltheycouldoffermewasaSmurfcostume.Fortwohundreddollarsaweek,IcouldwalkaroundasaSmurf!”Shespitsouttheword.“Butgoingtoauditionafterauditionwaskillingme.Itwasalways,‘We’relookingforsomeonetaller,’orthinner,orwiththisorthat.I’dtellthem,‘I’llwearthree-inchheels!’I’ddoanythingtogetajob.’”Eventually,shewashiredasafeaturetrainerwiththebookingagency,whereshespentfiveyearsteachingdance,musictheory,andalittlebitofeverythingelse.“Itaughtthesekidseverythingtheyneededtoknow,fromdoingtheirtaxes,tochildcare,to‘Yougotaguy,he’snotdoingnothing?Getridofhim.’I’dtellthem,‘MakehimworkatMcDonald’s!Butdon’ttakehimontheroadifhe’sexcessbaggage.’”Butevenshehadtolearnthehardway.Herfirsthusbandquithisownjobafewmonthsaftertheyweremarried.Whenshediscoveredhe’dbeenstealingmoneyfromher,sheendedthemarriagethenandthere.Suzanneadmitsthatshefellpreytothepartyatmosphereoftheclubworld,and—likemanydancers,shesays—shebattledalcoholismforsev-eralyears.Aftergoingthroughadetoxificationprogram,shefollowedhernewfriendMonaouttoLasVegas,atfirsthopingtogetapartinoneofthebigcasinoshowsontheStrip.“ThenIrealizedthesepeoplehadbeenstudyingdancesincebirth.Heretheycoulddopirouettesandstuffoneitherfoot.Icouldonlydothemononefoot.Icouldonlykickwithoneleg,onlyspininonedirection.”Althoughshegotapartasachorusdancer,shesaysshefeltoutofherleague.“Butyoulearnhowtoaccommodateyourdreams.WhenIlearnedthatIcouldperformeverynight,andbethewriter,director,producerandstar240b cSkinCityofmyownlittleone-personshow,Isaid,‘Hey,I’mthere!’AndIhadtotalautonomy.”That’swhenshejoinedMonaasadanceratLittleDarlings.Whileshedoesusetraditionaldancemoves,Suzanne’sstriproutinesrelymoreonhumorthananythingelse.Atfourfeet,teninches,shesaysit’shardtocarryoff“sexy.”“Idobetterwith‘funny’or‘powerful.’”Attheclub,whenthediscjockeyplaystheThreeDogNightsong“JoytotheWorld(JeremiahWasaBullfrog),”Suzannecomesboundingonstagefullyoutfittedinabright-greensequinedcostume,completewithafrog’sheadandbugged-outeyes.Bouncingaroundonstage,alternatelysteppingoutwithpointedtoesandsnappingherfingers,shelookslikeacrossbetweenKermittheFrogandanaerobicsinstructor.ToVanHalen’s“Jump,”shestripsdowntoagreensequinedbikini.During“JumpforMyLove,”bythePointerSisters,sheteasesheraudiencebyturningherbackandslowlyinchingdownherbikinibottom.Sheplayspeek-a-boowithherbreasts,peelingbackhertop,thenputtingitbackon.Forherfinale,Suzanneliesdownfullynudeonthestage,throwsherlegsupoverherhead,andthrustsherarms—withfrogpuppetsoneachhand—upbetweenthem.Overherrearend,thepuppetsfaceeachotherandlip-synchtotheSesameStreetfavorite“Ma-nuh-ma-nuh”(sungbytheMuppets).Bythistime,everyoneintheaudienceislaughingoutloud.Meninthebarshaketheirheads,unsurewhattomakeofthewholefroggyscene.ButSuzannereceivesheartyapplauseandsmilesallaround.Theperformanceandcostume,sheexplains,arecopyrighted.Onecustomertoldherhe’denjoyedhershowsomuchhewishedhe’dbroughthiswife.“Thisispartofmydream.Igettobeonstageandentertaineverynight.Yeah,themoney’sgreat,butthethingthatkeepsmegoingonthatstageeverynightisthatapplause,thatsound.There’sthatimmediategratification,makingpeoplesmileandlaugh.That’swhatIdo.”SuzannewasengagedtobemarriedattheendofJune,andwantedtogobacktoschooltogetherhigh-schooldiploma,andthenateachingcre-dential.“Ihaveneverbeeninthisbusinessforthemoney,”shedeclared.“I’vemadefourpointsixmilliondollarsinthepasttwelveyears.Askmewhereitis.Ihavenoclue.Butyouknowwhat?I’vehadablast.”241b LawandDisorderHeatherWorldGordonDickie,directorofsecurityandsurveillanceatHarrah’sHotelandCasino,slidesavideocassetteintoaVCRinhiswin-dowlessbasementoffice.Whenhepresses“Play,”thegrainyblack-and-whitesurveillancefilmofthecasino’sfirstandonlyarmedrobberypopsuponscreen,withthedate(4/24/94)andtime(2:45AM)notedinthecorner.Thesilentstoryoftherobberyunfoldsinaleapfromcameratocamera,eachpanning,tilting,andzoomingtocatchtheaction.Theclipopenswithashotoftheglassdoorsofaground-levelrearentrance,emptybutbrightlylit.Suddenlyadarkminivanpullsuptothecurb.Fouryoungblackmen(lateridentifiedbypoliceasmembersoftheLasVegasCrips)leapfromthevan.Secondsafterthefourmendisappearfromthecamera’seye,thescreenisfilledwithashotofpatronsrunningoutthesamedoors.Thepictureswitchestoinsidethecasino,wherethefourmenrundownaislesofslotmachinesandjumpoverthecounterofthecage,whereeachday’sworkingcashiskept.Inthelowercornerofonecamera’sview,oneofthemenwavesaColt.45pistol,warningpeopleaway.Insidethecage,therobbery(morethan$100,000wastaken)isperformedoverandoveragain,fromeveryconceivableangle.Thecamerapanstothemanwiththegun,whograbsahostage.Theimageisfuzzyanddark,butclearenoughtoshowthehostagebeingdraggedalongtheflooruntilheisfinallyletgo.243b cHeatherWorld“HeprobablyownsapieceofHarrah’snow,”saysDickiewithaslightsmileonhissunburnedface.Zoom,pan,switchtoanothercamera.Thefourmenrunoutofthecasinoandjumpintothewaitingvan,whichspeedsoutoftheparkinglot.Asthevanslipsoffthescreen,anothercamerashowsaDatsunsportscarleisurelyleavingthepremises.LasVegaspolicecaughtthevanafterahighspeedchase,buttheybelievethemoney—whichwasneverrecovered—wentintheDatsuntoLosAngeles,alongwiththemastermindsbehindtherobbery,Melvin“Poppa”FosterandChet“Shortdog”Govan.The1994Harrah’srobberyfitsintothetraditionalhistoryofLasVegas,inwhichurbancriminalscomeintostirupthedustofthisWesterndeserttown.ThemanwhofirstgavetheStripitsnamewasaformerLosAnge-lespolicecaptainandvice-squadcommanderwhohadoperatedillegalgamblingparlorsbackhome.WhenthemayorofLosAngelesdecidedtocrackdownonillegalcasinosin1938,GuyMcAfeemovedtoLasVegasandbeganoperatinglegalcasinosthere.ThedominationofLasVegascasinosandhotelsbythemob,agenerictermfortheorganized-crimesyndicatesbasedincitiesthroughouttheU.S.,beganwiththearrivalin1941ofBenjamin“Bugsy”Siegel,afrontmanfortheChicagogangwhousedmillionsofdollarsoforganized-crimecapitaltocompleteandruntheglamorousnewFlamingoHotel.Siegelwasshottodeath(presumablybyhismobassociates)athishomeinBeverlyHillsin1947.MostofthecrimesforwhichmobstersandtheiragentsinLasVegaswereeventuallyconvicted—mainlyhiddenownershiparrangements,andtheskimmingofcasinoprofits(bothtoavoidpayingtaxesonthem,andtorepayillegalmobinvestors)—wereofinterestmoretofederalthanlocalagencies,anddidnotmakeLasVegasanymoredangeroustomostresidentsandtourists.Buttheout-of-towngangsterswhoownedmostoftheStriphotelsinthe1950sand1960s—oftenwiththebackingofmob-arrangedloansfromtheTeamsters’PensionFundofChicago,andwithmoderatelyrespectablefrontmen—wereresponsibleforthecity’sown“GreenFeltJungle”legend,inwhichcheaterswerebeatenormutilatedbycasinosecurityforces,minorcriminalswereshakendownbymajorones,policewerepaidoff,anddeadbodiesofrivalgangsterswerediscoveredburiedinthedesertsand.Amobcode,supposedly,requiredthatmajoroffendersbeoffedoutsideLasVegas.Soex-FlamingobossGusGreenbaum,whoantagonizedhisChicagoemploy-ersin1958whilemanagingtheRivieraHotel,was,likeSiegel,murderedathisout-of-statehome.HowardHughes’purchaseoftheDesertInnandseveralothercasinosbetween1967and1970beganthebusinessmen’stakeoverofLasVegas’s244b cLawandDisordergamblingindustry,inwhichmoreorlessrespectablehotelandresortcor-porationsgraduallydisplacedthemob.OnemayormaynotadmirethebusinesspracticesoftheHiltonCorporation,MirageResortsInc.,orMGMGrand,buttheyarenotlikelytoinvolvesmashingfingers,plant-ingcarbombs,murderingopponents,ordefiantlycheatingthegovern-ment.Evenso,amajorskimofdoctoredslotscontinuedattheStardustandFremontHotels,largelyforthebenefitofChicagomobsters,until1976;atleastfourmurders(andoneattemptedmurder)havebeenrelatedtothisoperation.Thelasttookplacein1985,whenthebodyofTony“theAnt”Spilotro,aruthlesscareercriminalandLasVegascrimebosswhomayhavebeeninvolvedwiththeothermurders,wasfoundstripped,tor-tured,andburiedinacornfieldinIndianashortlybeforehewastotestifyregardingtheStardustHotelskimandothermoboperations.ManyLasVeganstodayhappilyrecountsuchtalesfromtheircity’spast,althoughwiththeimplicitunderstandingthatsuchthingsnever,ofcourse,happenanymore.Thesedays,ifthepolicefindabodyinthedesert,itismorelikelytobethatofaprostitutethanthevictimofaMafiahit.Robbersaremorelikelytotargetbanksthancasinos.Peoplewholiveherearequicktodefendtheircityagainstoutsiders’persistingsuspicionthatthegambling,drinking,andprostitutionoftheStripandGlitterGulchspilloverintotherestofLasVegas,orinanywayrepresentthemoralityofthecityitself.“It’sreallynodifferentherethaninanyotherbigcity,”saidOfficerJohnLoretto,oftheLasVegasMetropolitanPoliceDepartment,onechillDecembernight,onhiswaytohelpingwithacrackbustinaLatinohous-ingproject.Ioftenhearthisremark,alongwith“It’sreallyverysafehere,”whenIaskedpeopleaboutcrimeinLasVegas.Policeofficialsandresi-dentsalikeblamegangsandgrowthfortheinfluxofdrugsandthehighrateofviolentcrime.ItmaybetruethatmanyresidentsofClarkCountyhaveaconservative,suburbanattitudethatcontrastswiththecareless,hedonisticbehaviorencouragedbythecasinos.ButitisalsotruethattheStripandDowntowncontinuetohaveamajorimpactonthecity’scrimestatistics.Thegamblingindustry’sfree-floatingcasheconomyattractsconartistsandpickpockets;thelureofeasymoneyattractspeoplewhosometimesloseeverythingbuttheirdesperation;andthegamblingboomandresultingpopulationexplo-sionhavecreatedseriousgrowingpainsinthepolicedepartment.Thecity’scasinosalsoaffectthewaycrimeishandled.Toremainthenation’snum-ber-onetouristdestination,LasVegas—liketherollercoasters,medievaltournaments,wild-animalacts,andmockvolcanoesontheStrip—mustseemtobesafe,butwithanexciting,dangerousair.245b cHeatherWorld■ ■ ■Thedaysofmobrulemaybeover,butLasVegasstillhasmorethanitsshareofviolentcrime—thekindofviolentcrimethataffectsresidents,nottourists.NationalstatisticsshowthatClarkCountyhashigherratesofmurder,rape,androbberythandocomparablysizedresortcitieswithoutlegalgambling.In1995ClarkCountyhad14.8murdersper100,000resi-dents,whereasHonoluluandOrlandohad4.3and5.7respectively.Fur-thermore,ClarkCountyhadfewerpeopleintheeighteentotwenty-fouryearoldrange—thosewhotypicallycommitmostviolentcrimes—thanthosecitiesdid.Thelinksbetweencrimeratesandthecounty’smajorindustrycannotbedemonstratedconclusively.Butthepresenceoflargenumbersofgam-blersandimmenseamountsofvisible,tangiblecashredefinetheverynatureandvalueofmoney,toapointwhereplayersbecomeunusuallysus-ceptibletocheaters,thieves,scamartists,andhigh-pricedprostitutes,aswellastheirrationalappealsofgamblingitself.Thefrustrationoftheunemployedandunderpaidinacitysoobviouslyawashwithdollarsdrivessometoseekoutextralegalwaysofsharingthewealth.Duringmajorbox-ingmatchesinLasVegas,whenmanycommoditiesontheStripleapupwardinprice,peoplewellknowntothepoliceandFBIpourintothecityfromotherplaces.Drugdealersfinditeasytomakesalesforlargesumsofcashinacitywherehundred-dollarbillsarestandardsupermarketchange.AsalmosteveryU.S.cityhaslearned,anysubstantialincreaseindrugdealingbringswithitanincreaseinviolentcrime,asdealersandsub-dealerstrytodefendorextendtheirturforpayoffrivalsorwelshers.LasVegas’sgamblingboomisatleastinpartresponsibleforthecity’sownmanic,unstructuredgrowth,whichhascreatedalargepopulationoftran-sientsworkinggraveyardshifts,manyinservicejobsinthebighotels—notthebestrecipeforastablecommunity.Thecounty’spopulationofyoungpeople—white,black,Asian,andHispanic—isunusuallyunsettled,volatile,andviolence-prone.■ ■ ■Tokeeppacewithitsgrowingandchangingpopulation,thecountyhasexpandeditspublicservices,includingtheMetropolitanPoliceDepart-ment.Metro,asitisusuallycalled,wasformedwhenthecityofLasVegasandClarkCountymergedtheirpoliceforcesin1973.Thedepartmenthasjurisdictionoverthecounty’sunincorporatedareas(includingtheStrip)as246b cLawandDisorderwellasLasVegasproper.In1996,residentspassedabondmeasuretopaythecostofaddingeighthundredpoliceofficerstoaforceof1,326overatwo-yearperiod;butsuchrapid,wholesaleincreasescanmakeitdifficulttoscreenoutunsuitableofficers,andtotrainnewonesproperly.Storiesaboutroguepoliceofficersdominatedthenewspapersaroundthesametimethebondmeasurepassed.Onewaschargedwiththreateningtoarrestprostitutesunlesstheyhadsexwithhim.Anotherwaschargedwithforcingacoupletoengageinsexwhilehewatched.AndthentherewasRonMortensen.RonMortensenturnedthirty-oneonDecember28,1996,andhecele-bratedhisbirthdaybydrinkinghimselfsick.MortensenandhispartnerandfriendChristopherBradystartedthenightwithabang,downingtequilaandbeer.Feelingplayfulbetweenbars,Bradyspeddownsidestreets,skiddingandspinninghis1974Dodgepickup.“Ronwaslaughing,”Bradywouldlatertellagrandjury.“Hethoughteverythingwasfunny,especiallythewayIwasdriving.”Thepairpulleduptopeopletheyassumedtobedrugdealersandstaredatthem.“Therewassomanypeopleouttheresellingdope,somanypeo-plethatarelikeyourbangersandyourdopersthatareoutthere,anditwasjusteasytopullupandtalktothemorsitthereandlookatthemandharassthem,”Bradytestified.DanielMendoza,21,washangingwithhisfriendsonasmalldead-endstreetjustnorthofFlamingowhenBradyandMortensendroveup.ThegroupofLatinoboyssignaledthattheyhadnodrugs,butthepickupdidn’tleave.Instead,accordingtoBrady,Mortensenpulledouthispistolandfiredsixshotsintothegroup.Thepickupscreechedoff,leavingMen-doza’sfriendswithhisdeadbody.Bradyspedawayfromthesceneanddrovetothenextbar.HeandMortensenwalkedintoaroomfulloftheirfellowpoliceofficersatPT’sPubonSpringMountainRoad,wherethetwomenjoinedtheircowork-ersformoretequilaandbeer.TheypartieduntilMortensenthrewupsev-eraltimesandwas,inthewordsofonefriend,“fallingdowndrunk.”Mortensen,describedbyhiscaptainas“nothingspectacular,nothingstellar,nothingnegative,nothingpositive,”hadstartedhisjobonlysixteenmonthsbeforetheshooting.Duringhissix-monthpartnershipwithBrady,twoaccusationsofexcessiveforcehadbeenfiledagainstthepair.Inoneincident,theyarrestedeighteen-year-oldRaulLuisMosquedaforpossessionofapairofscissorsandbeingundertheinfluenceofacon-trolledsubstance;Mosquedaendedupinthehospitalbecauseoftheinjurieshesustainedduringthearrest.Hospitalstafftiedhimdownandpumpedhisstomachontheordersofthetwoofficers,whosaidtheysus-247b cHeatherWorldpectedanoverdose.NothingwasfoundinMosqueda’ssystem,andtheDistrictAttorneylaterdroppedallchargesagainsthimforlackofevi-dence.Atfirstglance,MortensenandBradyseemnotunlikemostoftheirfel-lowofficers:white,male,andrelativelyyoung.TheaverageageofaMetrocopin1997wasthirty-four,accordingtodepartmentestimates,butthatnumberdoesn’treflectthelargenumberofyoungrecruitshiredsince1996.AftertheMortensenincident,LasVegasSunpolicereporterCathyScottwroteaseriesofarticlesexposingthedepartment’sinabilitytoper-formadequatebackgroundchecksonnewofficers.ShediscoveredthattheofficerwhoreviewedMortensen’spreviousworkhistoryasadepart-ment-storesecurityguardhadadvisedMetronottohirehimbasedonhisperformancereviews,whichdescribedhimas“aggressiveandcom-bative.”Metro’spersonneldirectoroverruledtheobjectionandhiredMortensenanyway.Furthermore,Scottsays,there’sanewgenerationofcopsontheforce.“Theoldercopsherejoinedtheforcetomakethecommunityabetterplace,”shesays.“Forthenewcops,it’snotacareer,it’sajob.”Inexperienceandinadequatebackgroundcheckshaverepercussionsbeyondbadpublicity.In1994LasVegashadahighrateofviolentcrime,butthelowestrateofviolentcrimesendinginarrest,accordingtoFBIstatisticscomparingmajorU.S.cities.LieutenantDennisCobb,asixteen-yearveteranoftheforce,faultsthedepartmentfornotmakingtrainingapriority.Thepoliceacademyhasonlysixstaffofficersandrunsonlytwoclassesayear,eventhoughLasVegashasoneofthelargestpoliceforcesinthecountry.Whenmoneydoescomein,hesays,itgoestohiremoreoffi-cers,nottotraintheonestheyhave.“Thepoliceforcehasacorruptgenepoolofideas,”saysCobb,whowouldliketostartapublic-justicemagnetschooltocreateaninfluxofnewideas.Cobbalsofaultsthedepartmentforitslackofcommunication.“Whenthereisthismuchgrowth,youspendalotofyourtimefiguringoutyourjob.”Asanexample,hecitiestherelationshipbetweenMetropoliceandthepoliceofNorthLasVegas.AlthoughMetropatrolsthecityofLasVegasandtheunincorporatedareasofClarkCounty,ithasnojurisdictionoverNorthLasVegas,Henderson,orBoulderCity,eachofwhichhasitsownforce.ThesuperiorsoftheNorthLasVegasandMetropoliceforcejealouslyguardtheirseparateautonomy,hesays,tothepointwherethetwoforcesevenusedifferentradiofrequencies.Anytimetheyworktogethertheyhavetotradeanofficeroutofeachcar,sothateachhasoneNorthLasVegasandoneMetroofficer.Onlythencantheycommunicatebyradio.248b cLawandDisorder■ ■ ■LasVegassuffersunderthepressuresofrapid,barelycontrolledgrowthandgambling-relatedsocialproblems;butitalsosuffersfrompressuresimposedbythegamblingindustrytomakethecitylooksafe.Rareamongpolicejurisdictions,ClarkCountydoesn’tissuea“policeblotter”(adailylistingofcrimesusedbypolicereportersinsearchofnewsstories);toomanystoriesaboutcrimeinlocalornationalnewspapersmightmakethecitylookdangerous,andthuskeeptouristsaway.ReporterCathyScottsaysshehastogethercrime-storyleadsfromthepolicescanner,police-issuedpressreleases,orphonetips.CharleneBarrett,ayoungmotherwhomovedherefromsouthernCal-iforniain1995,worriesthatpoliceprioritiesmaybemisplaced.“Every-thinghereiscateredtothetouristtrade,”shesays.Shementionstwoserialrapistswhomolestedanumberoflocalchildreninthesummerof1996,thendisappearedbeforethepolicecouldcatchthem.“Thepolicedidn’tinformthecommunity,”saysCathyScott.“Theydidn’twantthebadpublicity.”WhenScottaskedLieutenantBradSimp-sonaboutthemolestations,hesaidhehadn’tevenheardofaserialrapistinhisprecinct.Scottdidn’tknowwhattomakeofhiscomment.“Idon’tknowifonehanddidn’tknowwhattheotherwasdoing,oriftheyhon-estlydidn’tknowtheyhadaserialrapist.”“There’spressuretokeepcrimestatisticslowtomakeLasVegasseemsafe,”sheadds.ScottcoveredthemurderofrapstarTupacShakur,whowasshotontheStriponSeptember7,1996,aftertheMikeTyson-BruceSheldonfight.Hoursbeforehewaskilled,ShakurandhisfriendshadbeatenupOrlandoAnderson,areputedmemberoftheLosAngelesCrips,attheMGMGrand.Thepolicecame,saysScott,butAndersondidn’twanttopresscharges,sothepoliceneverfiledareport.TheLasVegaspolicefrequentlyblameout-of-town(primarilyLosAngeles)gangsformuchofthecity’sviolentcrime,justasearliercityoffi-cialsblamedmob-relatedcrimeinLasVegasoncriminalsyndicatesfromothercities.LasVegashasawayofmakingitsproblemslookimported—aneasyout,consideringthat30millionpeoplevisitthismetropolitanareaofonemillioneveryyear.Policewhodealwith“imported”crimeblameout-sidersnotjustforcommittingcrimes,butalsoforattractingthem.WhenthenumberofhomicidesinClarkCountyjumped36percent(to163)in1996,homicidechiefWaynePetersonlaidresponsibilityon“averysmallpercentageofthe[tourist]populationthatisinclinedtocriminalactivity.”LieutenantDennisCobbagrees:“Thereisanunnaturalproportionofcriminalsfromoutoftown.”Hesayslocalgangaffiliatesscoutoutthe249b cHeatherWorldstoresfortheirLosAngelescounterpartstorob;orLasVegasgangsrobthestoresthemselves,andselltheloottotheirLosAngelesbrothers;or—themostinvasivescenario—gangsoftouristcriminals(likethe1994Har-rah’sburglars)comeupfromL.A.totakeadvantageofLasVegas’sfloating-casheconomy.“Arobberyhereislikelytonetyoumoremoney,”saysCobb.“Thinkoftherichguywhocomesherewithhismistress.Theguywantstobuyheradiamondnecklace,buthedoesn’twantthewifetoknow,sohebringscashforhispurchases.Thatcashstaysatthestoreuntilevening.”BobLarsen,theassistantpublicdefender,disputestheseclaims.Thesixty-fiveattorneysinhisofficehandle60to70percentofallmajorcrimesinLasVegas—morethanfourteenthousandfeloniesin1996.“Mostofthecrimeoccursthroughthepeoplewholivehere,”hesays.Moreover,hesays,thecityandstateareverytoughoncrime:possessionofmarijuanahereisafelony,notamisdemeanor;usingaweapontocommitacrimedoublesyoursentence,asdoescommittingacrimeagainstsome-oneoversixty-five.■ ■ ■Thereisonekindofcriminaluniquetolegal-gamblingcenterslikeLasVegas,whotroublescasinoownersandmanagersmorethanhedoeseitherresidentsortourists:thecasinocheater,whetherdealerorplayer,cash-roomskimmer,cardsharp,orslot-machinemanipulator.Visitors,infact,oftenfindthemselvessympathizingwithsuchcraftsmen(whoaredoingwhattheyonlydreamofdoing—beatingthehouseodds),tothechagrinofcasinoexecutives.Cheatingacasinoisafelonythatcangetyouuptotwenty-fiveyearsinjailinNevada,butsuchcriminalscannotalwaysbepursuedintonon-gamblingstates.Soitisoftenuptothecasinosthem-selvestoprevent,detect,catch,andevenpunishsuchpeople.ThestateofNevadagoesalongwaytowardmakinggambling-relatedcrimesseemminimal,andtokeep“undesirables”outofitscasinos.TheNevadaGamingControlBoardpublishesalistcalledtheBlackBook,whichincludesthenamesandpicturesofthetwenty-eightmenandonewomanwhoareforeverbarredfromNevada’scasinos.Sinceitbeganpub-lishingthebookin1960,theBoardhassoughtprimarilytobangamblerswithlinkstothemob:hereyoustillseenameslike“TonyRipe”Civellaand“Nappy”Pulawa.Forbiddinginnameonly,theinnocuouspamphlet(whichiscoveredinsilver,notblack)tellslessaboutdecliningmobinfluenceinNevadathanit250b cLawandDisorderdoesabouttheriseofcorporateownershipofthestate’scasinos,andthedesireofthenewmanagerstoappearsqueaky-clean.NevadacreatedtheBlackBooktofendofffederalattacksonlegalgambling,formergovernorandattorneyGrantSawyertoldtheLasVegasReviewJournalin1992.“WefeltthreatenedbyCongress,”Sawyersaid.“Nevadawasbeingblastedinheadlinesalloverthecountry.”UNLVprofessorsCaroleCaseandRonaldFarrellexaminedeachentryfortheirownbook,TheBlackBookandtheMob.“It’susedasasym-bolicgesture,”saysCase.“TheBlackBookallowsthestatetosayithasthegamblingindustryundercontrol.”Forexample,shesays,asslotmachinesbegantoaccountforanincreasingshareofcasinorevenue,theBoardenteredafewtokenslotcheats.(DouglasBarr,Sr.,enteredthebookin1990;fouryearslater,hisson,DouglasBarr,Jr.,joinedhisfather.)“Obviouslythesefewarenotthetotalpopulationofslotcheats,”saysCase.“TheBlackBookonlybarspeoplefromgoingintocasinos.Thesepeoplecanstillgointoroomsthatdon’thavetablegames,like7-11s,theairport,andbars.”Thecasinos’pitbosses,floormanagers,andsurveillancepersonnel,whosejobitistokeepundesirablesout,relyonaguidethatismorehelp-ful(thoughlessregulatedandlegal),putoutbyGriffinInvestigations.ThefourvolumesoftheGriffinBookcontainabouttwothousandentries:thenamesandpicturesofpettythieveswhosnatchpursesorstealcoincupsfromslot-machineplayers,conartistswhoimpersonatecasinoemployees,sophisticatedblackjackcheaterswhousecomputersandhandsignals,evencardcounters.(Cardcounting—asystemoftrackinghigh-pointcardsinblackjackastheyaredealtandplayed—isnotillegalinNevada,butacasinohastherighttobanishplayersskilledenoughtousethetechniquesuccessfully.)Eachentryalsoliststheperson’s“associates,”whichmaybesimplyalistofthepeoplesittingatthesametable,forexample.BobGriffin,aprivatedetectiveandformerpoliceofficer,andhisemployeesvisitcasinos,scoutoutentriesforthebook,andsendmonthlyupdatestotheirclients.OneprofessionalgamblerIspoketo(whodidnotwanthisnameused)saysthatGriffinemployssixtoeightagents.Someofthese,heclaimed,areformerDrugEnforcementAgencyofficersconvictedoffelonies.“Griffinbuysmugshotsfromcopsonthetake,”saysthegambler,whoaddsthatitisillegaltopublishpolicemugshots.AndyAnderson,atall,silver-hairedinvestigatorwhohasbeenwiththeagencyforsixteenyearsandactsasitsunofficialspokesman,won’tsaywhathedidbeforecomingtoGriffin.Norwillhesayhowtheagencygetsitspictures,orhowmanyinvestigatorsGriffinemploys,orevenwhich251b cHeatherWorldcasinosuseGriffinInvestigations.HewillsaythatGriffinhastwohun-dredclientsworldwide,andthatAndersonisanassumedname:“Thelesspeopleknowaboutme,thebetter.”Somepeoplelistedinthebookhavefiledclass-actionlawsuitsagainstGriffin,claimingthatanentryinthebookistheequivalenttobeinglabeledguiltyofacrimewithoutdueprocess.Griffinisfrequentlysued,acknowledgesAndersen,butheinsiststhattheagencyhaswoneverycasethatwenttocourt.Likethepolice,thecasinosdotheirparttokeepcrimestatisticslow.DaveKuhl,asecurityofficerattheMirage,saysthatmosttouristswhohavebeenvictimizedneverreportthecrimetopolice,oftenbecausetheyareembarrassed.“Let’ssaytheyrunintoabigtrickroll[aprostitutewhorobsherjohn].Weaskiftheywanttopresscharges,butwetellthemMetrotakesawhiletocome.”Whenthevisitordeclines,theMiragesim-plykeepsareportinitsownfiles.“Thecasinosdon’treportawholelotofcrimesbecauseitwouldmakethemlookbad,”saysLieutenantCobb.“Alotoftimestheyjustcompen-satesomeone.”■ ■ ■Onthesurface,itissurprisingthattherateoflarcenyismuchlowerhere(3,695per100,000ClarkCountyresidentsin1995)thanitisinHonoluluandOrlando(morethan4,000per100,000ineach).Afterall,30milliontouristsvisitLasVegaseachyear,manyofwhomcarrycashinonehandandadrinkintheother.Millionsofelderlyvisitors(andthousandsoflocalseniorcitizens)arevulnerabletoaquickpurseorcoin-cupsnatchwhentheysitdownforanafternoonattheslotsorvideo-pokermachines.Manyvisitorsfromsmallertownsmaybeunwisetourbandangers,suchaspickpocketing.ButlookaboutyouonevenabriefvisittotheStripandyouwillseeoneexplanationfortherelativelylowrateoflarceny:theubiquitousprivatesecurityforces.CasinosontheStripemployaprivatesecurityforceofatleastfourtimesthesizeoftheMetroPolice.AttheMirageHotelandCasino,about$3millionchangeshandsdaily,andastaffof250securityandsurveillancepersonnelkeepsaneyeonthatmoney.“Wedon’tnecessarilylookforex-copsorex-military,”saysSteveKoenig,thetallformerVillanovafootballplayerwho,asdirectorofsecu-rityandsurveillanceattheMirage,hiressecuritystaff.“Wewantambas-252b cLawandDisordersadorsincustomerservice.”Aboutsixtysuch“ambassadors”patroltheflooroftheMirageduringanyoneshift,mostoftheminuniform.InthisatypicalAmericantown,anyonewhoisnotgamblingisregardedassuspi-cious,andcarefullywatched.“Criminalspreyonpeople’sweaknesses,theirgreedornaiveté,”saysKoenig.Someslotplayers,forexample,becomesoengrossedinfindingawinningmachinethattheymovedazedlyfromslottoslot,leavingbehindajacketorpurse.Otherguests,intentontheirgame,accepttheofferofanyonewhoisdressedlikeahotelemployeetotaketheirbillsandchangethem.Moreoftenthannot,saysDanWilliams,assistantmanagerofthehotel’sslots,thecasinowillreimbursearipped-offclient.“It’speanuts,”hesays.“Cheapadvertising.”Fewersecurityguardscarryweaponsthantheydidtenyearsago(inpartduetoprohibitiveinsurancepremiums),yettheirpresenceisstilldaunting.Acasinosecurityofficerhastherighttodetainandquestionanyoneonhisemployer’spremises,justasagrocery-storeemployeecandetainasuspectedshoplifter.Asaguardianofprivateproperty,asecurityofficercanalsoexpelanyonefromacasino—oranapartmentcomplex.Thepresenceofsomanyuniformedsecurityguardsisintendedtointimidatepotentialcrooks,saydirectorsofsecurityandsurveillance.Butitcanalsocreateanatmospherestrangetomostvisitors;peopleenteringLasVegascasinosmayfeelthattheyarealwaysbeingwatched.Andtheyare.Theeliteofthesecurityindustryaresurveillanceofficers,culledfromtheranksofpitbosses,floormanagers,anddealers.Someareevenformercheaterswhodecidedtoputtheirskillstolegaluse.Theywatchthecasinofloorthroughhundredsofcamerashiddenintheceiling,LasVegas’sfamous“eyeinthesky.”Harrah’salonehasthreehundredcamerasandseventyVCRsinitsnew,upgradedmillion-dollarsurveillancesystem.Morethananythingelse,thesecamerasareusedtoresolvecustomerdisputes,saysPatCipolla,whoheadscasinosurveillanceattheMirage.AssistantslotmanagerDanWilliamssaysthataboutthreetimesadayacasinopatronwillarguethatamachinehasmalfunctioned.Williamsknowsthemachinesarecorrectalmostallofthetime,butthecasinooftenpaysoffevenpatentlyfakeclaims“tokeeptheclienthappy.”(Williamsadmitsheusesacriterionfordecidingwhogetspaidoff:“Youlookatthecaliberoftheshoes,oldornew.Youcantellalotbyshoes.”)Thecamerasarealsousedtowatchemployees.JohnPalumbotrans-ferredtwenty-sixyearsofexperienceonaNewJerseypoliceforcetoajobasasecurityofficeratBally’s,whereheworkedfortwoyears.“Itseemedlikedtheywatchedusmorethentheywatchedthefloor,”hesays.“One253b cHeatherWorldtimeIwastalkingtooneofthegirlsinthecoincage.Italkedtoherforabouttenminutes,butIwaswatchingwhatwasgoingonaroundme.Igotacallontheradiotocalltheoffice.TheychewedmeoutandsaidIwasn’tdoingmyjob.”Palumbogrewtiredofthecasino’srulesandregulationsandquit.Nowhedeliverspizzas,sometimesearningmoremoneythanhispeakwageof$8.40anhouratBally’s.Palumbo’sprofileistypicalofsecurityguards:aretiredpoliceofficerorarmed-forcesveteransupplementinghisincome.Hereceivedlittleformaltrainingforthejob.“Securityworkisnothingmorethancommonsense,justlikepolicing,”hesays.Thecombinationoflowpayandminimaltrainingcancreatecostlyproblems,accordingtoE.LesCombs,apersonal-injurylawyerwhosuescasinoswhensecurityguardsoversteptheboundsoftheirresponsibilities.“We’retalkingaboutrelativelylow-paidemployees,minimalbackgroundcheckstotheircriminalhistoryandexperience,”hesays.Combsalsoprosecutescasesinvolvingbarbouncersandsecurityguardsatapartmentcomplexes.Thenationaltrendtowardprivatesecu-rityforces,infact,mayhavereachedapeakinLasVegas,whereresidentsoftenseemasobsessedaboutguardsandgatesasdocasinosecurityman-agers.Thesejobsdonotpaywell,saysRayEicher,ofHolmanSecurity.Holmanemploysabouteightyguards,whomakebetween$4.75and$5.50anhour.“That’swhywedon’tgetex-military,”hesays.Holmanhiresrecenthigh-schoolgraduates,olderundereducatedpeoplewhoneedjobs,andretiredpeople.“We’relookingforpeoplelookingforanextrasomethingtodo.”Holmanguardsdonotcarryweapons.“Ifyouneedaguardwithagun,thenyoudon’tneedaguard—youneedapoliceofficer,”saysEicher,addingthatweaponsraiseinsurancepremiumsforthecompany.Anarmedguardisadeterrent,hesays,butitcanalsoescalatethelevelofviolence.“Trainingdoesn’tcoverupstairs,”hesays,tappinghishead.“Regardlessofhowmuchtrainingyouhave,there’salwaysthepossibilitythatsomeone’sgoingtoshootsomeoneelse.”Thepurposeofmostsecu-rityguardsissimplytodeter,toobserve,andtoreport.“TheoldLasVegasusedtohavethecowboy-with-the-gun-on-the-hipkindofsecurity,”saysEicher.“Mostcasinosecuritynowwearsuitsorsportsjackets.”AsLasVegaschangesfromafamily-ownedtowntoacor-porate-ownedcity,manycasinoshavetoanswertocorporateshareholderswhodonotliketohearaboutlawsuitsovertheuseofexcessiveforce.EvenBinion’sHorseshoeClub,anotoriouslyroughcasinoopenedbyBennyBinionin1951,mellowedinthenineties.254b cLawandDisorderThemodernHorseshoeisafarcryfromwhatitwasin1979,whenthecasino’ssecuritykickedoutathirty-eight-year-oldNevadaTestSiteworkernamedRanceBlevinwhobecameunrulyafterlosingtwohundreddollars.BlevinrespondedbybreakingtheHorseshoe’swindows.Momentslaterhewasshot,execution-style,outsidethecasino.Bythetimepolicearrived,BennyBinion’ssonTedhadlockedhimselfandthepitbosssuspectedofthemurderinthecasinocageinanefforttoescapearrest.Thepolicehadtokickinthecage.AccordingtotheLasVegasSun,thepitbossservedthreeyears’probation.Sixyearslater,Benny’sgrandsonStevenFechserhelpedtwosecurityofficersbeatuptwomensuspectedofcountingcards.BothBarryFinn,aprofessionalgamblerandretiredairlinepilot,andAllenBrown,anengi-neer,wentfromBinion’sinterrogationroomtothehospital;Brownsuf-feredfivebrokenribsandarupturedspleen.Binion’slatermadeaprivatesettlementreportedlyworth$675,000withthetwomen.Inthecriminalcasethatfollowedthesettlement,Metrodetectivestestifiedthattheycouldnotfindthesurveillancetapeforthenightofthebeatings.LesCombs,whorepresentedFinnandBrownintheircivilcase,sayshesuescasinosforexcessiveforceagooddeallessoftenthesedays.“Fromthelackofbusinessinthatarea,Iassumetheymustbelearning,”saysCombs,whohasprosecutedaboutahundredsuchcasesinhisnine-teen-yearcareer.Hethinkstheflurryoflawsuitsintheeightiesledtomoretrainingforsecurityofficers,whichledtofewerchargesofexces-siveforce.■ ■ ■Murdersandpettythefts—eventheoccasionalarmedrobberyofacasino—arecrimesthatcouldbetransposedtoothergamblingcities.ButgeographysetsLasVegasapartfromplaceslikeAtlanticCityandBiloxi,Mississippi.Itsitsinavalleysurroundedbyunaccommodatingdesert,whichmeansthatvisitorsmuststayinthecity’slodgings.Thiscaptiveaudienceispreynotonlytothecasinos,butalsotocriminalswhohaveadaptedthemselveswelltothepeculiaritiesofthisstrangeterrain.FraudDetectiveLarryDuishasseenmanycrimesthathavean“onlyinLasVegas”ringinhiseighteenyearswithMetro.HisofficeintheMunic-ipalBuilding,oneblockfromFremontStreet,isdecoratedwithpostersofChevroletCorvettes(whichheraces)andanFBI“Wanted”posterofawomanheadmires:sherobbedaBrink’struckandgotaway.255b cHeatherWorldDuisdescribesonecasefromthesummerof1995.Hepullsamugshotfromathickfile:themaninthepicturelookspleasantbutsleepywithcalm,droopyeyes.Hisoriginsarenotobvious:European?Hispanic?MiddleEastern?That’swhatmadehimsogood,saysDuis(whowouldnotrevealtheman’sname).Thismiddle-agedmanwouldhangaroundthebelldeskofthebusier,largercasinos,waitinguntilheheardapairoftouristsspeakingoneofthethreeforeignlanguagesheunderstood:French,German,orSpanish.Whenhefoundhispreyhewouldchatthemup,feignfamiliaritywiththeirhometown,andaskthemtodinner.Laterhewouldgettoknowthembetterandfindoutwheretheirparentslived.“I’llsayhellowhenIreturntoEuropetomorrow,”he’dpromise.Andsayhellohedid,accordingtoDuis.Hewouldcallfromhishotelroom,assumetheroleofpoliceman,districtattorney,orlawyer,andtelltheparentthattheirchildhadrunintotroubleintheStates,advisingthemtosendmoneyimmediately.HeusedthenamesofrealLasVegasattorneys,butaddedhisownpost-officeboxaddress.Duisdoesn’tknowexactlyhowmuchthemanmade,butknowsthatheaskedforalargeramountwitheachnewvictim.“Helivedlikeaking,”saysDuis,thumbingthroughsnapshotsfoundintheman’sbelongingsafterhisarrest.Inonepictureheleansagainsttherailofthebalconyofhissuite,thelightsofLasVegasspreadingbehindhim.Inanother,twoundressedwomenloungeoncouchesinsidethesuite.Apparentlyhemovedfromonehoteltothenext,livinginstyle,gamblingwhenhewasn’tworking.Thedetectivesgotabreakinthecasewhentheyrecognizedoneoftheman’saliasesinacasethattheforgerydivisionhadprosecuted.Duisandhismencopiedthemugshotandsentittobelldesksandcasinosecurityandsurveillancedirectorsthroughoutthecity.Onedirectorcalledback:“Yourmanisstayinghere,”hetoldthedetectives.Themanturnedouttobeawell-traveledAlgerianwhosentmoneytohiswifeandchildinGermany,wherehewasalsowantedonunspecifiedcharges.Thecasewasexpensive:theClarkCountyDistrictAttorneyhadtohireaninterpreter(“AllofasuddenallhecouldspeakwasFrench,”saysDuis),andpaytoflyvictimsfromGermanytoLasVegas.Despitethedif-ficulties,theygotaconviction.McCarranAirportisanothereasyplacetomakequickillegalmoney.Thetouristwhoputsherexpensive-lookingbagontheX-rayconveyorbeltunwittinglyhandsitovertoathiefwhenshegetsinlineforthemetaldetector:aconartist,wearingenoughmetaltocauseadelay,canjumpinlineinfrontofher.Whilethelineisheldup,hispartnerontheotherside256b cLawandDisordercanmakeoffwiththebag.Itcouldhappenanywhere,ofcourse,butMcCarranistheperfectairportforthisscam,becausetouriststheretendtocarryalotofcash.“ThisisLasVegas!”detectivesKevinJohnsonandKeithBlaskoeofMetro’stourist-safetyunitexclaiminunison.“Peoplecomeheretogamble,”saysJohnson,“todoubletheirmoney.They’vealwaysgotacouplethousandU.S.onthem.”■ ■ ■MostpeoplecarryalotofmoneyinLasVegas,butsomepeopleflaunttheirwealth,wearingflashygoldjewelryandsleekdesignerclothes,andcarryingexpensivebags.“LasVegasistheMeccaofthenouveauriche,”saysLieutenantCobb.Peoplewithmoneyflocktobigevents,likethe1991prizefightbetweenRazorRuddockandMikeTysonattheMirage.“Therewerefortythou-sandpeopletryingtogetintothatfight,”hesays.Outside,peopletriedtobuyscalpedtickets.Inside,fansmodeledtheirwealth,thosewith$5,000ringsideseatsproudlydisplayingtheirticketsinbreastpockets.Metroofficerswoveinandoutofthecrowd,lookingforsignsofascam.Whenoneticketholder,anoldergentlemanwithatwenty-nine-year-olddate,paradeddownthecorridor,theofficerssawtheircatch.AgroupofLatinoshadsurroundedtheoldman,talkingtohim,talkingtoeachother,annoyingeveryone.“Theofficerwhosawthissaidtheylookedlikebeesaroundaflower,”saysCobb.Theoldman,distractedbythebuzzofconversationaroundhim,didn’tevennoticewhenoneofthecrewliftedhisticketfromhisjacket’sbreastpocket.Whentheofficersmadethearrest,theyrealizedtheyhadnabbedthreegenerationsofaCentralAmericanfamily:agrandmother,amother,andafewkids.“Thefourteen-year-oldhadtenthousanddollarsinhisshoe,”saysCobb.“Ithinktheyhadatotaloffourteenthousand.”CounterfeitersalsomakeabundleinLasVegas,sinceitisamoneytown,andthemoneymovesfast.In1996agroupofcounterfeitersprintedClarkCountypayrollchecksinLosAngelesusingahigh-resolutionscan-ner.TheybroughttheblankcheckstoLasVegas,embossedtheamount,andwaiteduntilpayday.“Fraudusuallytakesplaceinthesehigh-pressureenvironments,”saysCobb.Casinosencouragepeopletocashtheirpaychecksinside,offeringfreedrinksanddrawingsforcashasincentives.Paydayinthecasinomeanslonglinesandimpatientcheckholders,makingitanidealtimeandplaceforcounterfeiterstocashtheirfakechecks.257b cHeatherWorld■ ■ ■InsidethecasinooftheNewYorkNewYorkHoteleverythingissqueaky-clean.ThereisnosmellofurineinthealleysofLittleItaly,nogumstucktothesidewalksofGreenwichVillage.Theonlytrafficjamsarethosecausedbycrowdsgatheringaroundtheoccasionaljackpot,orwaitinginlineattherestaurantsandbars.ThecasinoindustryhasconstructedthesamekindofsanitizedimageforthestoryofcrimeinLasVegas.“Bugsy’sLounge”isnowjustasecond-stringshowroomattheFlamingo,whichhasinstalledabronzeplaquehonoringitsinfamousfounderinitsrosegarden.ResidentsofLasVegas,playingtheirownpartinmaintainingthecity’simage,havebeeninsistingtooutsidersforyearsthat“It’sjustlikeanywhereelse.”Itisn’t.ThenumberofcrimesandcriminalsinLasVegastodaymaybenohigherthanthatofothermajorcities.Butbecauseoftheuniquesetsofpressuresunderwhichthisremarkablecitylives,thekindsofcrimeandcriminals—andtheforcesdeployedtoarrestthem—arebothdifferentandmorecolorful,astheywereinthedayswhenmobstersandtheiragents,insteadofpublicallytradedcorporations,calledmostoftheshots.258b WhyThey’reMadSOUTHERNNEVADAVERSUSTHEUNITEDSTATESRandolphCourtEDITOR’SINTRODUCTIONFewregionsoftheUnitedStatesareatthesametimesodependenton,sosuspiciousof,andsohostiletothefederalgovernmentastheextensive,largelybarrencountiesofsouthernNevada.ThemoreonetalkstosouthernNevadans—whethernatives,residentsoflongstanding,orrelativenewcomers—themoreonehearsofaproud,defi-antself-image:tobeaNevadanis,eventoday,tobeakindoffreelancehomesteader,adon’t-tread-on-meentrepreneur.Thelonglegacyofliberalcodesunlikethoseofotherstates—relaxedrequirementsformarriageanddivorce,legalizedprostitutionandgambling,freedomfromtaxesandspeedlimits—hasbecomeapartofthestate’sself-definitionandclaimtounique-ness.Bynowcorporate,environmentalist,andotherpressureshavejustaboutkilledtheactualityofthetrulyindependentpioneer.Butthegam-blingmentality,thehostilitytoregulationandtaxation,andtheremainingwide-openspacesofsouthernNevadafosteritsperpetuationasanideal.InthecaseofClarkCounty,itwasthefederalgovernmentthatfirstwidenedandpavedthehighwaytoLosAngeles,makingLasVegasacces-sibletoitsprimarysourceofinvestors,tourists,andnewresidents.Duringthe1930s,thefederalgovernmentspentmorethan$70million(tentimesthatincurrentdollars)inthearea,buildingHooverDamandBoulder259b cRandolphCourtCity,originallyagovernment-ownedcompanytownfordamworkers.DuringWorldWarII,Washingtonpaidforthethree-million-acregun-nerytrainingcenterthatwouldbecomeNellisAirForceBase,andthemagnesium-processingplantthatgrewintothetownofHenderson.TheNevadaTestSite,northofthecity,attractedtourists,contractors,contro-versy,andemployeesintheyearsafter1951.DuringtheDepression,whileitwasstillunderconstruction,theHooverDambecameanationalmagnetfortourists,aswellasunem-ployedmenseekingwork.Itattractedupto300,000peopleayear,mostofwhomstoppedinLasVegas,whichcametoserveastheadministrativeandsupplycenterforthemammothproject.Damworkers,meanwhile—likeairmenandmetalworkerslateron—flockedtoLasVegas’scasinosandbrothels.ThegiantprojecthelpedtoguaranteeClarkCountycheapwaterandelectricityformanyyearstocome.NewDealfunding,chan-neledtoNevadabypowerfulDemocraticsenators,helpedexpandLasVegas’ssewersystem,paveitsstreets,andbuildapublicschool,thefirstcityparkandgolfcourse,andthefirstconventioncenter.AsthebenefitsoftheHooverDamprojectandotherNewDealspend-ingbegantodryupinthelate1930s,WorldWarIIcamealongtogivesouthernNevadaasecondmajorboost.Washington’sdecisiontoconcen-tratenewdefenseplantsandmilitaryinstallationsoninlandSunbeltcitiesprovedanimmenseboontoLasVegasanditsneighbors.NellisAirForceBase—originallyawartimeschoolforpilotsandgunners,laterthenation’sprimarytrainingcenterfortacticalaircombat—expandedthepopulationofNorthLasVegasandenrichedthelocaleconomythroughthreemajorwarsandtheperiodsofanti-Sovietarsenalbuildinginbetween.BasicMagnesium,Inc.,afederallycontrolledprocessingplantsouthofLasVegas,gavebirthduringWorldWarIItoanothercompanytown,nowtheburgeoningsuburbofHenderson.ThevastBMIindustrialcomplexwaslatersoldtothestate,whichinturnhandeditovertoitscorporateten-ants.In1951theNevadaTestSite,itsboundariesbeginningsixtymilesnorthofthecity,becamethelocusforU.S.atom-bombtests—forsomeyearsatouristattractioninthemselves,asgamblersgatheredinStriphotelstowatchthemushroomcloudsrisingacrossthedesert.Afterthetestswerehaltedin1959,theDepartmentofEnergyfoundotherusesfortheNyeCountytract;theDOEremainsoneofthelargestcivilianemployersinsouthernNevada,althoughNyeCountyhaslostgovernmentjobsinrecentyears.Alloftheseprojectsbroughttensofthousandsofnewfederalemploy-eesandtheirfamiliestosouthernNevada,providedmillionsofdollarsof260b cWhyThey’reMadworkforlocalcontractors,andhelpedfillthecasinosandhotelsofLasVegas.Theheavyfederalpresenceintheregion,infact,wasusedasjusti-ficationforseveralWashington-financedprojectsinClarkCountyinthe1950sand1960s.TheInterstateHighwayActof1956paid90percentofthecostofbuildingI-15,withoutwhichitisimpossibletoimagineLasVegastoday.WiththeendofWorldWarII(andthesubsequentboomintheprivatecasino-resorteconomy),thefederalpresenceinsouthernNevada—thoughstilldominantintermsoflandownershipandcontrol—begantoseemlessessentialand,tosomelocalcitizens,lessbenign.CasinoownersandthecivicofficialsdependentontheirprosperityresentedtheintrusionoftheKefauverCommission(and,followinginitswake,theFBI)intotheirwaysofdoingbusiness.TheyresentedevenmoretheTennesseeSen-ator’sproposalfora10-percentfederalgamblingtax,whichSenatorPatMcCarranworkedferociouslytokill.Thecityandcountystronglyresistedfederal(andother)effortsin1968-71tobringracialintegrationtotheirschoolsandhotels.FavoredbyWashingtonformanyyearsbecauseofwhatgovernmentofficialsregardedasitsred-white-and-bluepatriotism(noquestionsaboutthevalueordangerofatomicweaponshere:“fromtheCivilWarthroughWorldWarII,thestateofNevadahasalwaysbeeninthevan-guardinthesupportofsuchwarfare,”editorializedtheLasVegasReviewJournal),Nevadagraduallyemergedasoneoftheleadersofanumberofanti-regulatory,anti-federalmovements.The“SagebrushRebellion,”the“CountySupremacy”movement(whichassertstheprimacyofcounty-basedpoweroverstateorfederalclaims),andthe“WiseUseMovement”(anindustry-supporteddrivetoexpandthecommercialexploitationoffederallands)alltookroot,asweshallsee,inruralsouthernNevadaaswellasinotherWesterndesertstateslikeIdahoandMontana.Atthesametime,Nevada’sgamblinginterestswerechokingonasuggestionoftheClintonadministration’storevivetheideaofanationalgamblingtax(asuggestionthatdiedstillborn),andbitterlyfoughtitsproposal(adoptedin1995)foranationalcommissiontoexaminethesocialandeconomicimpactsofgambling.Thelong-debatedfederalproposaltoturnYuccaMountain,100milesnorthofLasVegas,intothecentralnucleardumpsitefortheentirecountryarouseddivided,butlargelynegative,responses.Whiletheprojectcouldcreateasmanyas20,000jobs,peoplealsoworriedabouttheirsafety(Nevadanshadgrownmoresuspiciousofnuclearweapons,aliveordead,since1951),andtheunwelcomeimageoftheSilverStatebeingusedasthenation’sgarbagecanfordangerouswastes.261b cRandolphCourtInhistoricalfact,LasVegashasneverbeenacowboyorevenaminer’stown,andhaslittleincommonwithlegendaryfrontierboomtownslikeAbilene,Denver,SanFrancisco,orTulsa.ItbeganitsEuropean-Ameri-canlifeasarailroadwateringjunction,survivedasawarehousingandsup-plycenter,grewintoaspoiledwardofthefederalgovernment,andeventuallyprosperedasadestinationresort,thankstoitscasinos.Butthecityissurroundedbymillionsofacresofbothcattle-ranchingandminingcountry,andhaspersistentlydrawnitsownimageandethosfromtheliveslivedinneighboringruralcounties.Theveryfirstcasino-hotels,bothdowntownandontheStrip—theFrontier,theElRancho,theThunderbird,theGoldenNugget,theHorseshoe—adoptedOldWestmotifs,withantlersandIndianblanketsonthewalls.Earlycivicboosterscreated“HelldoradoDays”paradesandanimitationfrontiervillage,whileatthesametimetearingdownalmostallremainingevidenceofthecity’sgenuinepast.Casinodealers,cocktailwaitresses,andshowgirlsstillwearlatter-dayversionsofhistoricWesternattire.In1985,LasVegasboughttheNationalFinalsRodeoawayfromOklahomaCity;fortendayseveryDecember,thecityfillsupwithgenuinecowboysandcowgirlsandtensofthousandsoftheirfansfromallovertheWest.Thisparticularimage(longsymbolizedbythethirty-footneon“VegasVic”signthatwelcomedvisitorstoFremontStreet)isnowsubmergedindozensofothertourist-dazzlingthemes.AnequestrianstatueofBennyBinion—formerprisoner,admittedmurderer,andcasinopioneer—waserectedattheintersectionofFirstandOgdenStreetsafterBiniondiedin1989.Today,CowboyBenissurroundedanddwarfedbyfaceless,loomingparkinggarages,builttoservevisitorstothecomputerized“FremontStreetExperience”andthecasinositconnects.Benandhishorsestandasasymbolofthedoomedbutdefiant“cowboy”spiritofsouthernNevada,anditsresistancetoanyone—particularlytheUnitedStatesgovern-ment—whotriestofencethatin.Toseethearchaicconceptatitspurest,onehastoventureoutofthecity.TwohundredmilesnorthwestofLasVegas(askipandajump,asNevadameasuresdistances)acollectionofangry,hardheadedsouthernNevadaranchersandtownspeoplehasrefusedtoacceptthenotionthatthefederalgovernmentownstheirland;thatagentsofthedespisedBureauofLandManagementcanorderthemhowtoraisetheircattleandlivetheirlives;thattheOldWestoflegendeverdied.DAVIDLITTLEJOHN262b cWhyThey’reMad■ ■ ■RoyCliffordSr.pulledhimselfslowly,stiffly,frombehindthewheelofhisoldredpickuptruckandleaned,halfinhalfout,hisrearendontheseat,hisfeetontheground,asthedusthehadkickeduponhiswayinblewpast.Henoddedatus,theboysandme,butdidn’tsayanything.Helookeddownandspatinthedirt.Theboys,RoyJr.andCougar,bothintheirforties,wereleaningonafenceafewfeetaway,watching,waitingtohearhowthemeetinghadgonewithCharleyWright,theirrangeman-agerfromthefederalBureauofLandManagement.Buttheoldmanjustkeptstaringatthedirt,watchinghisspitfadedry.Therewerenomoreanswerstodaythantherewereyesterday,ortheweekbefore,ortheweekbeforethat.TheCliffords’300,000-acregrazingallotment,StoneCabinValleyincentralNyeCounty,Nevada,sometwohundredmilesnorthwestofLasVegas,wasstillclosed.TheherdwasoverontheRalstonallotment,butitwouldonlybeabletostaythereforafewmoreweeks;afterthat,thereisafairlygoodchancethey’llbeallowedtomovesomeoftheanimalsintotheToiyabeNationalForest,nearHunt’sCanyon,inamountainrangetheForestServicecallstheMonitorCom-plex.Ofcourse,theForestServicewillonlyallow130headupthere,andonlyforJulyandAugust,sothey’llhavetofeedtherestontheirprivateland.“And,ofcourse,hayis$185agoddamnton…andcattlepricesareinthebasement…Hadtosellnearlythewholedamnherdlastyear.Barelygotenoughfor’emtobuythehaytofeedtherest…,”RoySr.says.LifeislikethatthesedaysforranchersinNyeCounty,thethird-largestcountyintheUnitedStates,wherethetraditionaleconomyislargelybasedonthenaturalresourcesofthehighdesert:forageforlivestockandmineralwealth.Nine-tenthsofthecountyisfederallyowned,adminis-teredbytheBLMandtheForestService,whohavethepowertoclosearancher’sgrazingallotmentorcuthisherdsintheinterestsofmanagingthehealthoftherange.Rancherscanthrive,butonlywhenconditionspermit,andthelastsixyearshavebeenhard.“They’relikethatChineseboystandinginfrontofthosetanksinTiananmenSquare,”saidWilliamChampney,aretiredprofessorofagriculturaleconomicsatUniversityofNevadaatReno.“They’reabouttogetsquashed.”ThetotalcattlepopulationinthestateofNevadahoveredaround500,000in1995and1996,afifty-yearlow,andalmosta30-percentdropfromthe1982peakofabout700,000head.InNyeCounty,30,000headhadfallento16,000overthesameperiod.Actually,ranchersrepresentonlyasmallpercentageoftheoverallecon-omyinNyeCounty,whichhasapopulationofonlyabout18,000—aden-263b cRandolphCourtsityofonepersonpersquaremile.(ThedensityofClarkCounty,justtothesouth,isabout125persquaremile,thankstoLasVegas.)AlmosteveryoneisfeelingthepinchinthecentralandnorthernpartsofNye.ButrancherscastalongshadowintheOldWesternculturethatstilldomi-natessomuchofpeople’sthinking.Outhere,theembattledranchershavebecomesymbolsofpersecution—tough,hard-workingfamilies,descen-dantsofalong,nobletradition,beingdrivenintoextinctionbymeddle-somefederalregulatorswithscrewed-uppriorities.Thishandfulofranchershasinspiredanantifederalistrevolution,andmadethecountyfamousintheprocess.NyeCountyCommissionerDickCarver,asmallrancherintheGreatSmokyValley,hasbeendoingbattlewiththeBLMandtheForestServiceateveryturnsincehewaselectedin1988.Heclaimsthatfederalregulationsunfairlyandillegallydisruptthe“customsandculture”ofNye.Hisfieryantifederalistrhetorichasmadehimaherointhenational(andlargelywestern)CountySupremacymovement,whichseekstoelevatethepowerofcountiesrelativetostateandfederalgovernments,andhasbeenwidelyassociatedwithmilitia-typeactivism.AnotherrancherinNye,WayneHage,hasmounteda$28millionsuitagainstUnitedStatesoverprivate-propertyrightsonfederallands,andhasbecomeintheprocessaherointheanti-environmentalist“WiseUse”movement,whichseeksopenpubliclandstomoreprivatemining,logging,andranching.CarverandHagehavebeendepictedintheliberalpressasvillains,playersinabroad,nationwidenetworkofantifederalistandanti-environ-mentalistradicals.Inthemainstreampresstheytendtoappearasrela-tivelyharmlesscranks,extremerepresentativesoftheanti-WashingtonattitudeoftencreditedwiththeRepublicancongressionalsweepof1994.Intheright-leaningpressthey’reportrayedasheroes,freedom-fighters,defendersofliberty.Butoutherethey’rejustDickandWayne,twocom-mon-sensicalOldWesternerswithunusuallyloudvoices.■ ■ ■ThehubofthecowboycultureinNyeisTonopah,thecountyseat,aplacewherepeoplewearplaidshirtsanddrivepickuptruckswithgunracksvisi-blethroughthebackwindow.It’salsoaplacewherethecounty’seconomicdeclineisplaintosee.IhelpedJimWolfeunloadadeliveryonenightathisAceHardwarestoreonMainStreet.Itdidn’ttakelong,maybetwenty-fiveminutes.The131boxesrepresentedthefirstdeliveryJimhadreceivedintwelveweeks;tenyearsago,hegotdeliveriestwotofourtimesthatsizeeveryweek.Butthen,tenyearsagohehadtenfull-timeemployees,several264b cWhyThey’reMadpart-timers,andtwoaccountants.Nowhehasonefull-andonepart-timer,andhegetsdeliveriesaboutthissizeonceeverycoupleofmonths.ThepopulationinTonopahdroppedfrom4,250peoplein1992toabout3,100fouryearslater.Oneofthearea’sbiggestemployers,theAnacondamolybdenummine,closedinthelate1980s,killingsixhundredjobs.TheAirForcemoveditsF117AStealthfightersfromNellisAirForceBasedowntoNewMexicoin1991-92.Tonopahhasthelookandfeelofaspacecolonyinascience-fictionmovie,nestledbetweenabare6,000-footpeakonthewestandlower,rolling,barebrownhillsontheeast.Theplaceisiridescentatsunset,grayatdusk;atnight,theskyislouderthanthetownbelow.Maybeit’sthewind.Maybethestarsarebrighterthanthelights.MainStreetisHighway95,thetwo-lanehighwaythatrunsfromRenotoLasVegas.Travelersstopforsnacksandgas;somestaythenightinoneofthemotels.Otherwise,MainStreetisprettyquiet.Localscrawlalongslowlyintheirpickuptrucks.Afewpullintothepostoffice.Anoldmaninaninsulated,plaidwoolshirtandahuntingcapstopsinattheHockShoptoseeifBobhasanybungeecords.ThesignsinfrontoftheHockShopread“Guns&Jewelry,”“Antiques,”“TouristInformation,”“BuyoSell.”Butno,Bobdoesn’thaveanybungeecords.Mostoftheactionisupatthetopofthehillonthesouthendoftown,attheStationHouseCasino,Restaurant&Mall.That’swhereScolari’sWarehouseMarket,FamilyDrug,OasisApparel&Gifts,KHWKRadio,theBureauofMines,andtheNevadaDepartmentofWelfarearealllocated.Oldwomenandmenwearinghatswithfarmequipmentandmotor-sportslogosmillaboutintheStationHouse,smokingcigarettesandfeedingquartersintothevideo-pokergamesandslots.Otherseatgrilled-cheesesandwichesanddrinkcoffeeintherestaurant.Tonopahstillcallsitself“MiningTown,USA,”atributetoitshistoricalroots.“Thefirstgreatminingcampofthe20thcentury,”itiscalledinaConventionCenterandVisitorsAuthoritybrochure.AprospectornamedJimButlerstruckitrichhereinthespringof1900:anassayshowed395ouncesofsilverand151/2ouncesofgoldtothetonoforeinthefirstTonopahmines.Intwoquickyears,atentcampgrewintoabustlingtownwithchurches,saloons,stagecoachlines,andnewspapers.Theninety-fiveyearssincethenhavebeensomethingofaroller-coasterride.AccordingtoashorthistoricalreviewonthebackoftheStationHouseRestaurant’ssouvenirmenu,“Tonopah’seconomytendstoswingthroughbustandboomtimes.Rightnowthingsareprettyroughintown.”Iftheeconomyiscurrentlyonadownwardslide,accordingtomostlocals,thereasonisclear:theFeds.265b cRandolphCourt■ ■ ■NyeCountyishuge,aboutthesizeofVermontandNewHampshirecombined,andthefederalgovernment—theBLM,theForestService,andthemilitary—ownsapproximately90percentofit,ortenmillionacres.Asfarasthelocalsareconcerned,BLMandForestServiceemploy-ees—rangemanagers,biologists,geologists,archeologists,andalltherest—areanomnipresentnuisance.“Thisplaceisafederalcolony,”saidTrishRippie,aTonopahreal-estateagent.“It’slikeIndiaundertheBritish!”“TheBLMofficeislikeDracula’scastle,”saidconvention-centerdirec-torJimMerlino.“Peopleusedtobeafraidtoevengointherebecausetheywerescaredoflosinganotherpintofblood.”NooneismoreadamantonthesubjectoffederalbureaucratsthanCom-missionerDickCarver:“Governmentisdrivenbybureaucratswhoholdanappointedposition,andthinkthey’reaboveGod,andabovethelaw,andtheycandoanydamnthingtheywant!”Hisvoiceishigh-pitchedandnasal,likeMikeTyson’sbutalittleraspier.Itpeaksatsomethingclosetoasquealwheneverhesaystheword“Constitution,”whichhefrequentlydoes.“TheConstitutionisveryspecificaboutthepowersofthefederalgovern-ment!…Theonlypowertheyhavetomakelawhastoeitherdealwiththedefenseofthenation,commerceamongthestates,communications,orcre-ationofstates.Itdoesn’tgivethemablankchecktomakeanylawtheywant.”(CarvercarriesacopyoftheConstitutioninhisshirtpocket.)ByJuly1994,Carverhadhadenough:theBLMandtheForestServicewereoutofcontrol.Theywereruiningpeople’slivesleftandright,andtheyhadtobestopped.“Theybackedusintoacorner,”hesaid.“Wehadtostanduporburyourheadsinthesand,andwechosetostandup.”Thatspring,runofffrommeltingsnowhadwashedoutanaccessroadinJeffersonCanyon,inthemountainsoutbehindtheCarverranch.ThoseareToiyabeNationalForestlands,andtheForestServicehaddecidedtoclosetheroadpermanently.ButCarverwouldn’tallowit.OntheFourthofJuly,hedrovehisD8Caterpillaroutand,withalarge,well-armedpicnicgatheringcheeringhimon,hebulldozedtheroad.ForestServiceemployeeDaveYoungknewofCarver’sintentionsaheadoftime,andhewasthereholdingasign:“Stop!Unauthorizeddisturbance.DaveYoung,USFS.”Carverdidn’tstop.Atfirst,thestoryofCarver’sbulldozerprotestreceivelittlecoveragebeyondpublicationslikeLivestockMarketDigest,inwhichCarverandhisfriendswerehailedaspatriots.Butthefollowingyear,aftertheOklahomaCitybombingthatkilled638people,journalistswritingaboutantifederal-266b cWhyThey’reMadistactivistsbeganmakingpilgrimagestoNye.PublicationslikeTheNationandTheVillageVoicestartedmakingconnectionsbetweendepressedareaslikeNyeCounty,dependentontheirnaturalresources,andtheanti-environmentalist“WiseUse”movement—whichitssup-portersregardasadefenseofprivate-propertyrights,itsdetractorsasafrontforthelivestock,mining,logging,andoilindustries.Fromthere,connectionsweremadetoarmed,militia-typeresistance,ofthesortthatseemstohaveinspiredtheOklahomaCitydisaster.MorrisDeescitedDickCarverasadangerousexampleinhisbookGatheringStorm:Amer-ica’sMilitiaThreat.InaNationcoverstoryofMay1995,DavidHelvargwrote,“IntheWestthemilitiasareusingtheexistingWiseUsenetworkasoneoftheirprimaryrecruitingbases,arguingformilitaryresistancetothegovernmentandits‘preservationist’backers.”■ ■ ■WhenIvisitedCarverandhiswifeMidgein1997,theyestimatedthatfourhundredjournalistshadbeenouttoseethembeforeme.Onascaleofonetoten,theyratedmostoftheresultingstories“minusnine.”Theonlytreat-mentstheylikedwereadocumentarymadebyDanishfilmmakersandafeaturearticleintheOctober23,1995issueofTime,thecoverofwhichtheyhaveframedandhungintheirlivingroom.Overthelegend“Don’tTreadOnMe,”theCarversandagroupoffriendsandneighborsarepicturedstandingoutinthedesert,gloweringatthecamera.Thearticle,“UnrestintheWest,”recountedthetheplowingoftheJeffersonCanyonroad,andseemedtomakeaconsciouseffortnottomakeCarverlooklikeawacko.“SomeofDickCarver’scriticshavetriedtolinkhimtomilitiasandwhitesupremacists,”wroteErikLarsonintheTimesurvey,“butitisamistaketodismisshimasjustanothercrackpot.TheforcespoweringtheNyeCountyrebellionarethoseresculptingthepoliticalandsociallandscapeofAmericaatlarge.TheyjusthappentohaveconvergedwiththeirgreatestintensityintheWest,whereprivateandpublicinterestsclashdirectlyanddaily,typi-callyoversuchvisceralissuesaslandandwater.”■ ■ ■Inthepast,rancherswerethestewardsoftherangehereinNye,astheywereeverywhereelseintheWest.Itwasintheirinteresttokeeptherangeingoodshapefortheirowncattle,andforthemostparttheydidagood267b cRandolphCourtjob.Ofcourse,therewasneveranyquestionthattheprimarypurposeofwesternrangelandwastoprovidefeedforlivestock.Nowadays,peopleinNyebelievethebureaucratsspendtoomuchtimeworryingaboutunprof-itablecritterslikedeserttortoisesandwildhorses,andnotenoughtimeworryingaboutcattleandtheirowners.ThehistoryofthepeopleofNyeCountyrunsparalleltotheevolutionofconservationisminthepublic-policyarena.Infact,theveryword“con-servation”meantsomethingquitedifferentwhenTonopahwasfoundedthanitdoestomostAmericanstoday.GiffordPinchot,founderoftheU.S.ForestService,arguedin1910,“Thefirstprincipleofconservationisdevelopment,theuseofthenaturalresourcesnowexistingonthisconti-nentforthebenefitofthepeoplewholiveherenow.”Thatideawasagreeabletotheresourcedevelopersoftheday,fromtheminersandranchersinplaceslikeTonopahtotheeasterncapitalistswhounderwrotemanyoftheirfirstventures.Itwasalsoanideathatjibedwellwithnineteenth-centuryfederallandpolicy,whichwasgearedprimarilytowardsthegoalof“disposal”—theconversionofthefederalestateintoprivateproperty,throughmechanismsliketheHomesteadAct.TheHomesteadActof1862hadofferednewsettlers160-acretractsoflandinterritorieswestoftheMissouriRiverfornexttonothing,ontheconditionthattheycultivateandmaintainthem.Manyranchersandmin-ersmovedtothewesternstatesandterritorieshopingtoobtainlandonsimilarterms.TheMiningActof1872offeredameansforminerstoacquiretitletosubsurfaceminerals,andtheTaylorGrazingActof1934allowedrancherstosecuregrazingallotments.Butdeedstosubsurfaceclaimsgaveminersonlytherighttomine,asgrazingallotmentsgaveranchersonlytherighttograzelivestock.Unlikemidwesternhomestead-ers,theywereneverabletoacquirefulltitletothelanditself,whichremainedthepropertyoftheUnitedStates.TherewasmoretoGiffordPinchot’sdefinitionofconservationthanhisfirststatedprinciple.Conservation,hesaid,alsomeantpreventionofwaste.“Thenaturalresourcesmustbedevelopedandpreservedforthebenefitofthemany,andnotmerelyfortheprofitofthefew.”Translatedintopublicpolicy,thisnewProgressiveEraconceptledtoascientific,sys-tematicallyadministeredprocessofresourcemanagement,andtheendoftheold,liberalland-disposalpolicies.Fromnowon(withrareexceptions),thefederalestatewastoremaininfederalownership.(InordertoacquireavailableBLMlandssurroundingLasVegas,whichstillamounttomorethan27,000acres,propertydevelopersmustofferthefederalagencylandofequalvaluesomewhereelse.)Unliketheirluckierfarmer-cousinsfur-thereast,ranchersandminersinplaceslikeNyeweredoomedtolivetheir268b cWhyThey’reMadlivesandruntheirbusinessesunderthewatchfuleyesoffederallandlordsandregulators.Inearlydays,itdidn’tmattermuch.Upthroughthe1940sand’50s,theBLM(counseledbyadvisorypanelsmadeuplargelyofranchers)continuedtochampiontheinterestsoflivestockonInteriorDepartmentlands.Itwas-n’tuntilthe1960sand’70s,whenenvironmentalistsgainedpowerinthepub-lic-policyarena,thattheconceptof“conservation”wastransformedintothatof“preservation.”In1976,thefateofranchersandminersonpubliclandwassealedwhenCongresspassedtheFederalLandsPolicyManagementAct,whichofficiallygavetheBLMauthoritytomanageInteriorDepartmentlandswith“multipleinterests”inmind.InanarealikeNyeCounty,forexam-ple,decisionsregardingthenumberofcattleallowedonaparticulargrazingallotmentmustnowbemadewiththeinterestsofwildhorses(ordeserttor-toises,orundergroundwatersources)takenintoaccountaswell.■ ■ ■“Mostoftheseoperatorsarestilllivingintheeighteen-hundreds,”saysBLMrangemanagerMarkSwinney,ashegazesoffintothefoothillsbelowtheHotCreekRange.“Weknowmoreabouthowtomanagetherangenow.”Swinneyisashort,stoutmaninhisearlyfortieswhotalkswithaharshmidwesterntwang,hisconversationpepperedwithacronymslikeESIs,WSAs,andAUMs(EcologicalSiteInventories,WildernessStudyAreas,andAnimalUnitMonths).WearetenorfifteenmilesnorthofHighway6,onadirtroadinthemiddleoftheCliffords’StoneCabinValleygrazingallotment—which,Swinneysays,wasclosedbecauseithadbeen“beattosnot”bydroughtandovergrazing.Wearelookingforcattleandwildhorses,thestragglersandroamersthatrancherslosetrackof(ona300,000-acreallotment,it’snothardtolosetrackofafewhead),andhorsesthathabituallywanderbacktothewateringholesthey’reusedto.“Therewego,”Swinneysays,focusinghisfieldglasses.Offinthedis-tance,fivecowsstandknee-deepinforage,chompingaway.“Those’dbeTomColvin’s.”Hehandsmethebinoculars.“Seethedewlaps.”Eachoftheanimalshasapendulousfoldofskinhangingunderitsthroat,aflapthatwascutasamarking(insteadofabrand).Swinneymarkstheirloca-tiononhismap.TheColvinsareallowedtwenty-fivestraysouthere;ifSwinneyfindsmorethanthathecangivethemacitation.Weturnandheadbackdowntowardsthehighway,passingaheavilygrazedandbeatenareanearawateringholewhichlookedlikeadirtpark-269b cRandolphCourtinglot.“Thisiswhywehadtoclosethisallotment,”Swinneysays.Oncecattleandwildhorsesgetusedtodrinkingfromawateringhole,theywillkeepcomingbackanddestroythegrassesandbrush.Nearthehighway,fourcowsturntailandrunfromus.Swinneygnasheshisteeth.“Nowthisreallyranklesme,”hegrowls.“You’dhavetobehalf-blindwithdirtyglassesnottoseetheseanimalsnexttothedamnhighway.”Hepausesandmarkstheirlocationonthemap.Awayfromthewaterholes,theforageishealthierandappearstobemakingacomeback.Buttheallotmentisstillnotreadytobereopened.“Idon’tknowwhatthesolutionishere,”Swinneysays.“Ithinkwe’llproba-blyhavetokeepthisallotmentclosed.Thebestthingforus,intermsofavoidingcontroversy,wouldbeadryspringandsummer.”Thatway,itwouldbehardforanyonetoquestionthedecisiontokeeptheallotmentclosed.“Buteventuallywe’llhavetoaddresstheissue.”Modernrangescienceisbunk,asfarasalotoftheranchersaroundhereareconcerned,especiallythosewhosefamilieshavebeenhereforacenturyormore,andgrewsetintheirwaysbeforetheBLMandtheFor-estServicewereevercreated.“Cowmenknowhowtotakecareoftherangebetterthanbureaucrats,”theywilltellyou.“We’vebeendoingitforgenerations,throughgoodtimesandbad.”Somefeelthattheirfamilyhis-tory,inandofitself,givesthemtitletotheland.Othersgototheirsafesandpulloutstacksofdeeds,orrecordsofoftheinheritancetaxestheyhadtopaywhentheirparentsorgrandparentsdied.“Look,”theysay,pointingattheirpapers.“Ifthisdoesn’tprovewehaveprivate-propertyrightsouthere,thenwhatdoes?”■ ■ ■RoyCliffordSr.’sgrandfather,EdSr.,hadalreadybeenintheareaforthirtyyearswhenJimButlerstruckitrichandthetownofTonopahwascreated.EdSr.arrivedinStoneCabinValley,aboutthirtymileseastofTonopah,in1872.Accordingtofamilylegend,hegotofftheboatfromEngland,walkedouttoNevadawithawagontrain,andbuilttheoriginalstonecabinafterwhichthevalleywasnamed.Intime,heandhisdescen-dantsbuiltupasmallranchingoperation.NowtwogenerationsofCliffordsliveoutinthehollowneartheorigi-nalstonecabin.RoySr.livesinathree-roomwood-framebungalowbuiltin1916.RoyJr.andCougarhavetrailerhomesoftheirown.Cougar’smother,whoisRoyJr.’sAuntGladis,livesaloneinacottageofherown;herhusband,Ed,diedofleukemia,whichhernephewblamesonradioac-270b cWhyThey’reMadtivedustfromthenuclearblaststhattookplaceeightymilessouthinthe1950s.“Youusedtobeabletolookdownthatway,”RoyJr.says,pointingdowntowardsthetestsite,“andseehugemushroomcloudsfillthesky.”TheCliffords’closestneighbors,theFallinis,wholiveabouttwentymileseast,havebeenheresincetheearlydays,too.TakeHighway6overthepassbetweentheHotCreekRangeandtheKawichRange,pasttheboarded-upbarandrestaurantatWarmSprings,turnrightonHighway375(nowofficiallylabeledthe“ExtraterrestrialHighway”becauseofthepersistentlegendthatcreaturesfromouterspacelandednearbyin1947),andyou’llseetheFalliniranchhouseontheleft,atthefootofthePancakeRange.Otherthantheranchhouse,thesheds,andthecorralsholdingseveralhundredheadofcattle,there’snothingelseformilesaround.JoeFallini’sgrandfather,Giovanni(a.k.a.Joe)Fallini,arrivedintheareasometimearound1860.GiovanniwasbornneartheSwiss-ItalianborderandworkedhiswayacrosstheAtlanticonashiptoNewYorkCity.Helatertookatrainoutwest(hehadrelativesinEureka,California)andbeganworkinginthemines.HemarriedanItaliangirlandstartedhaulingwoodandfreightforaliving.ThefreightbusinesstookhimdowntoEdenCreek,atthefootoftheKawichMountains,onthesouth-westernpartoftheFallinis’presentrange.GiovanniranastoredownneartheReveillemillsiteforawhile,andbeganbuildinguptheranchnearEdenCreekonecowatatime.Whenthebiggestranchingopera-tioninthearea,theReedfamily’sUnitedCattleandPackingCompany(whichcoveredthreemillionacres),fellapartduetodroughtsandbadcattlemarketsinthe1920s,theFallinis,theCliffords,andseveralothersboughtthegrazingandwaterrightstotherange.Today,theFallinis’grazingallotmentscover600,000acres.TheCliffords’StoneCabinVal-leyallotmentisabouthalfthatsize,andtheyshareitwithanother,biggerrancher,TomColvin.■ ■ ■“Weneverwantedtobeabigoutfit,”RoySr.toldmeoverPepsisinhissmalllivingroom,whosewallsarelinedwithdeerandelkheads.“Wejustwantedtomakeanhonestliving.Weusedtorunahundredfiftyortwohundredheadofcattle—whateverwefiguredwecouldmakealivingon.Itwasjustanicelittleoperation.”RoySr.’sdad,Joe,andJoe’sbrotherEd,survivedthatwayupintothe1970s,neverbuildingupaherdofmorethanaboutfivehundredhead,mininginthewinterstomakeendsmeet.Butascattlepricesdropped271b cRandolphCourtsharplyinthe’60sand’70s,theyneededbiggerherdstosurvive.In1978theyboughtthegrazingrightsfortheHunt’sCanyonallotmentonthewesternslopesoftheMonitorRange,andbuilttheirherduptoabout1,200head.Since1989therehavebeensixyearsofbaddroughts,whicharehardontheforage,sotheBLMhasmaderancherscuttheirherds.Atthispoint,itlooksliketheCliffordsmightnotmakeit.TheFallinisaren’tinanyimmediatedangerofgoingunder.Foronething,theyareabiggeroperation;innormalyears,theyrunabout2,200head.Moreimportant,theycanaffordtofighttheBLMincourt.InJoe’scomfortableupstairsofficeinthesprawlingFalliniranchhousetherearesixteenlargefilecabinets,mostofthemfullofrecordsfromhislawsuits.JoehassuedtheBLMthirty-threetimes,andwonmoreoftenthannot.Hisbiggestvictorycameontheissueofwildhorses,aparticularlyannoy-ingburrunderlocalranchers’saddles.AftertheWildandFree-RoamingHorsesandBurrosActwaspassedin1971,theunownedhorses’numberswereallowedtogrow.(“Iactuallyprefertocallthem‘feral’horses,”MarkSwinneysaid,duringourcruisethroughtheStoneCabinValleyallotment.)Consequently,cattleherdsoftenhadtobecut,becausetherewasonlysomuchforageontherangetogoaround.Thismaderanchersfurious.Afterall,theyremindyou,ranch-ersweretheoneswhoreleasedthesehorses(ortheirancestors)inthefirstplace,aroundthetimeModel-Tsandtractorstooktheirplace.“Hell,”rancherssay,“thedamnthingswouldn’tbeabletoliveoutthereinthedesertifwedidn’tdevelopthewellsandthewaterpipelines.NowtheBLM’slettingthemeatusoutofhouseandhome.”JoeFallinihasproofofthedamagethey’vedone.Heledmedownstairstotheden,whereenlargedcopiesofeighty-year-oldfamilyphotographshangonthewalls.Inacorneroftheroomstandsarefrigerator-sizesafe,likeanold-timebankvault.Joeopensitandbeginsdiggingthroughboxesoffamilyphotosandstacksofolddeeds(signedby,amongothers,WarrenHarding,CalvinCoolidge,andFranklinD.Roosevelt).Hefindswhathewaslookingfor.“Okay,”hesays.“Youwanttoseewhatthosewildhorsesdidouthere?Look.”Hespreadoutfourcolorphotos,allofthesameviewofthesouth-easternpartoftheFallinigrazingallotments.Thefirstpicture,takeninJuly1980,showsthevalleygreenandlush;thesecond,takeninJuly1982,showstheforagesparseandstressed;thethird,July1983,showsthevalleybareanddead-looking.Inthefourth,datedJuly1984,thevalleylooksaboutthesameasitdidthepreviousyear.Thosewereprettydecentrainyearsbyhigh-desertstandards,withanaverageof8.43inchesofprecipitation.(Sixinchesisnormal.Thedrought272b cWhyThey’reMadyearsof1985,’86,’90,and’91eachaveraged3.52inches;theaverageinLasVegasisjustoverfour.)Butbetween1980and1984,theherdsofwildhorseswereallowedtogrowtotheirhighestnumbersinhistory.Backupstairsinhisoffice,Joepullsoutfiguresfromastudyhehadpre-paredforhiswild-horselawsuit.WhentheHorseandBurroActwaspassedin1971,therewere126wildhorsesontheFallinis’Reveillegrazingallot-ment.By1980,whenthefirstofthepictureofRailroadValleywastaken,therewere1,233.By1984,whenthelastpicturewastaken,thenumberhadswelledtoits2,306.Joesuedin1983,andthreeyearslaterajudgeorderedthattheBLMhadtokeepthehorses’numbersdowntotheir1971level.Butthecostofthisandtheothercourtbattlesmadethevictoriesbittersweet.Joe’sfacetenseswithanger.“EversincetheBLMhasbeeninexistence,theyhavedoneeverythingpossibletheycouldtodestroythisoperation.They’recontinuallybadgeringus….ThewildhorsesknockeddownoneofourcorralsdownatCedarPark,andtheBLMgaveusanoticetofixit.Thenwefixeditandtheygaveusanoticeofunauthorizedimprove-ments!…Theytelluswe’renotgoodrangemanagers.That’sbull.Ifweweren’tgoodrangemanagers,theyneverwouldhavebeenabletohavethatmanyhorsesoutthere.”■ ■ ■Lastsummer,RonHuntsinger,thenewBLMfield-stationmanagerfortheTonopahdistrict,sentalloftheranchersintheareaawarningthatthepreviousdrywinterandearlyhotsummerwereaddinguptotrouble.“Theclimacticconditionshavethevegetationinastressedconditionandwatersourcesareinalimitedsupplyinmanyareas,”hewrote.Duetotheseearlydroughtconditions,Iwantedtoasklivestockoperatorstoassesstheeffectsontherange.Wecouldbefacingpossibleallotmentclosure(s),ifthehotanddryweatherconditionspersistastheyhaveearlyinthegrazingseason.Wearelookingtomitigateanyimpactsonoperatorswhoselivestockdependonpubliclandstomeettheirforageneeds.Inordertopreventlongtermdamagetotherange,whichcouldresultinfuturereductions,wesuggestthatoperatorsconsidersuchvoluntarymeasuresaswaterhauling,watercontrolmanagement,herdingwithpastures,earlyremovalsandreductionsinherdsizewhenneeded.Outragedatbeingtoldhowtomanagehisland,JoeFallinifiredback,“TheTwinSpringsRanchhasexistedsincethe1860sanditwasdevel-opedlongbeforethereeverwasaBureauofLandManagement.”273b cRandolphCourtThroughtheyearswehavelearnedmanythingsincludinghowtomanage,onourown,therangeinaproductivemanner.WelearnedhowtodothiswithoutthemoderndayBureaucratthatnowcontrolseverymovewemake.Contrarytowhatyoumaythink,itisnottoourbenefittodestroytherangeweuse.Wehaveknowntherewouldbedroughtsandweknowtherealwayswillbe.InthepastwehavetakenmeasurestoprotectourselvesfromthesedroughtsbymaintainingatleasttwoyearsoffeedonwhatisnowtheReveilleallotment.Wealso,throughtherotationofcattleandthediversificationofwater,maintainedathrivingecologicalbalanceontherangeland.NowtheBureaucratentersandstartsdestroyingthisconceptoftwoyearsofdroughtfeed.Duetothisfactwenolongerholdthepeaceofmindofhavingthisextrafeed.Ironically,iftheBureauofLandManagementwouldhavestayedoutinthefirstplace,wewouldnotbeinthepositionwearetoday….Throughmis-managementtheBLMallowedthehorsestoincreasefrom126headto2,306in1984.ThisdestroyedtheTwinSpringsRanchmanagementpractices….“There’snoquestion,”saysMarkSwinney,asweneartheendofourtourthroughStoneCabinValley,“thehorsesdidalotofdamage.Buttheirnumbershavebeendownforeightyears.”ThereasonsomeofFallini’sallotmentsarestill“beattosnot,”inSwinney’sopinion,isthatJoedoesn’trotatehisherdproperly.In1991Joeputinarequestforpermissiontomakefivenewwaterimprovementsonhisallotments.Hewantedtodigonenewwellandaddpipelinesfromfourothersourcestomakenewwateringholes.Bycreatingasmanydifferentplacesforthelivestocktodrinkaspossible,andspread-ingthosespotsevenlyovertherange,hebelievedthatbothcattleandhorseswouldbeencouragedtomovearound,sotheywouldn’ttrampleanyoneareaexcessively.No.No.No.Swinneyshakeshishead.That’snotthewaytodoit.Youhavetorotatetheherd,likecropsonafarm.Turnofforfenceoffthewatereverywhereexceptforafewareas.Keeptheanimalsinthoseareasforseveralseasonswhiletheforagerecoverseverywhereelse.Thenrotate.RangeconservationistCharleyWrightrecommendedthatmostoftheFallinis’requestsfornewwateringholesandconduitsbedenied.Falliniappealedthedecisionsandwononeofthem,forafour-milepipelineextensionfromasourceknownasCharlie’sWell.Thefamilyhadjustgot-tenthenewswhenIarrived,andtheyweren’tgoingtowasteanytimeget-tingtheworkdone.“Youneverknow.Thebastardsmighttrytochangetheirminds.”SoIsqueezedintooneofthefamily’spickuptruckswithJoeandhisyoungestdaughter,Anna,andweheadedouttoCharlie’sWelltogetstarted.274b cWhyThey’reMadWeturnedsouthofftheExtraterrestrialHighwayandbounceddownadirtroadinthemiddleofReveilleValley,a“fifty-yearfloodplain”—aflat-landwhereafloodcanbeexpectedatmostonceeveryfiftyyears.TheKawichMountains,tothewest,werepurpleintheafternoonlight,thegreasewoodandbuttonsageinthevalleymostlyabrownishgray.Rollingdownhiswindow,Joesawricegrassandgreenishsignsofspring.TherearemorethantwohundredwaterdevelopmentsontheReveilleallotment.TheFallinishaveputmostoftheminoverthelasttwogenera-tions.InadditiontoCharlie’sWell,there’saJoe’sWellandaRay’sWell,allnamedafterthefellowswhodugthem;Witch’sWellgotitsnamewhenoneofJoe’sauntsfoundthesiteusingadowsingrod.“Therewould-n’tbeanygoddamnedanimalsouthereifitweren’tforusdevelopingthewater,”Joeassertedonceagain.Afterabouttwentyminutes(itwouldtaketwo-and-a-halfhourstodrivethefulllengthoftheFallinis’allotment),weturnedoffthedirtroad.Joepaused,resethistripodometerandshiftedintofour-wheeldrive.Webegancrawlingeast,drivingstraightovertherange,ataboutfivemilesanhour.Afteraquarterofamile,westopped.Theforagewasthreefeethighandhadbarelybeentouched.Therewereonlyafewscatteredcowpiesontheground,alloldandasdryasshreddedwheat.Therewasnoincentiveforanimalstocomehereyet.AstakewitharedribbontiedtotheendwaslyingonthegroundrightwhereJoehadplanteditsixyearsago,whenheoriginallyrequestedper-missionforthepipeline.That’swherethenewtwenty-thousand-gallonholdingtankwastogo,fedbythewaterinthenewpipethatwouldcomestraightupfromCharlie’sWell,fourmilesduesouth.JoeturnedthepickupandweheadedforCharlie’sWell,followingthepipeline’sfuturepathtogetafeelfortheground.“Itfeelsprettysoft.Youshouldbeabletoripthewholefourmilesthisafternoon.”Annanods.SheisajunioratCaliforniaStatePolytechnicUniversityinSanLuisObispo,majoringinagriculturaleconomics,andshehopeseventuallytotakeovertheranchfromherparents.She’salreadyprettygoodwiththeCaterpillar;nextshewantstogetherindustrialdriver’slicense,soshecanhaulwaterintheeighteen-wheeler.Thenshe’lllearntoflythechopper.Joe,whohasadegreeinagriculturalmechanics(UN-Reno),islicensedasafixed-wingandhelicopterpilot,aheavy-machineryoperator,andabuildingcontrac-tor.Hehasplentytoteachhisdaughter.Joe’smassiveD8CatisparkedandwaitingnexttoCharlie’sWell.ItstreadscomeuptoJoe’schestandAnna’sshoulders.Thetwoclimbupintothecab.JoepushesbackhisCalPoly“AgEngineering”cap,pullshis275b cRandolphCourtdime-storereadingglasseslowonhisnose,andsquints,tinkeringwiththestarter.Annastuffsplugsintoherears.ApairofAirForceC130spassesslowlyoverhead,afewhundredfeetofftheground,buttheydon’tseemtobotherthethreecowsthathavebeenwatchingusintentlyfromafewhundredyardsaway.Thecowsscat-ter,though,whenthebulldozerroarstolifeandAnnabeginsrippingatrenchinthedirectionofthestakewiththeribbon.Shemusclesalongattwoorthreemilesanhour,draggingalong,four-inchbladethatlookssomethinglikeabuckedtooth,cuttingtwofeetintothegroundbehindherasshegoes.Joewatchesforafewminutes.“She’llripafour-inchtrenchnorthtoday.Tomorrowwe’llripdeepercomingbacksouth.Thenwe’llripnorthagain,layingthepipeinthirty-twoinchesdeepaswego.Thewholethingwilltakethreedays.”Hestandswithhisshort,strongarmscrossedoverhischest,restingontopofhisroundbelly.Thenheshakeshisheadandletsoutadisgustedchortle.“Sixyears’waitforthreedays’work.”ItwasgoingtotakeAnnaatleastanhourtoripthefourmilesouttothestake,soJoeandIdrivedowntotheplaceGiovannibuiltatEdenCreekinthe1890s.Partofthewaythere,Inoticeacow’sskeleton.“Welosethemtocoyotesorvehicles,”Joesays,“orlice—wecallthattheBLMdisease:abunchofsaprophytessuckingthelifeoutofabody.”OtherthantheskeletonandthethreecattlewesawatCharlie’sWell,therewerenoothersinsight.“Yeah,wepulledthecattleinforthebenefitoftherange,andwedidn’tneedthegoddamnedBLMtotellusto,either,”Joesays.“Youknowwhatgetsme?Youcanspendyourwholelifeouthere—fourgenerations—andthegoddamnedbureaucratscomeouthereandsuddenlythey’retheexpertsandwedon’tknowanything.Therewouldn’thavebeenaranchhereforahundredandtwentyyearsifwedidn’tknowhowtomanagetherange.It’sdegradingwhenyou’vebuiltupyourlivelihood,thenthegov-ernmentcomesinandtellsyouyoudon’tknowanything.Bureaucratsworkseventofourorwhatever,andtakevacations.It’snotlikethatforus.Weworktwenty-fourhourssevendaysaweek.Theycomein,chartyourdestinyfortherestofyourlife.Evenifthey’reonlytherefortwoorthreemonths,wehavetolivewithwhattheydo.”ThewallsofGiovanni’scabinatEdenCreekaremadeofstoneandcement.Thewoodenfloorsandthebacksteparefallingapart.Behindthecabin,piñonandjunipertreesgrowontheslopeleadingupintotheKawichMountains.“Granddadisburiedupthere.”OnourwaybacktomeetAnna,westoptocheckonseveralotherpipelines:CedarPipeline,whichGiovanniandtheUnitedCattleCom-276b cWhyThey’reMadpanyputin,whichisindeedmadeofwood(“Thoseold-timersdidwhat-evertheyhadtodotogetthingsgoing”);Five-MilePipeline,whichJoe’sfatherandunclelaidrightafterWorldWarII;andGeorge’sPipeline,whichisonlytwenty-fiveyearsold.“GodIloveprogress,”Joesays.“Ihateitwhenpeopletrytoshutitdown.”Anna’sfaceiscakedwithdirtwhenwemeether;sheistwitchinghernoseandtryingnottosneeze.“Daddy,nexttimeI’mgonnawearoneofthoseventilators,”shesays,takingtheplugsoutofherears.ThesunhadfallenovertheKawichRangeandthewindwasbeginningtoblowcold.Annalooksbackatthefreshtrenchandshivers.“Prettygoodtiming.”In1995CongressdebatedoverhaulingtheTaylorGrazingActof1934andraisinggrazingfees,whicharecurrently$1.34per“AnimalUnitMonth”—thecostofgrazingonecowandonecalfpermonth.Easternpoliticianstalkedof“welfareranchers”gettingafreerideonpublicland;IaskedJoewhathethoughtofthat.“I’dlovetoseethemcomegiveitatry.Anditain’tallthatdamncheapwhenyouaddinthecostsofmaintainingthewaterandthefencesandbuyingthefeedandalltherestofit.Atthispointitwouldbecheaperandlessworryforustogosomewhereelseandleasesomeone’sprivatelandfortendollarsperAUMandhavethemtakecareofeverything.”ButtheFalliniswon’tdothat.They’redugintoodeep.Annaalreadyhasaplacepickedoutwhereshewantstobuildahouse,downbyGio-vanni’soldcabinatEdenCreek.■ ■ ■ThereisasharedsenseamongfolksinNyeCountythattheyhavebeenclosedoutoftheland-managementplanningprocess;thattheyhavehadtodealwithfundamentalinjustices;andthattheireconomyhasbeendestroyedasaresult.Intheiranger,andintheirrebellion,someofthemhavebuiltupasortofmythology,aviewofAmericanhistoryandlawtojustifytheirposition.DickCarverthinkstheframersoftheConstitutionintendedcountygovernmentstotakepriorityoverstateandfederalgovernment.Histhe-oryisbasedinpartonhisunderstandingofthe“equalfooting”doctrinedefinedinthethe1777ArticlesofConfederation—aninterpretationsharedbyfewpoliticiansorconstitutionalscholars.PartofthereasonCarverhasattractedsomuchattentionisthathehastakenhistheoryontheroad,preachingwhathecallstheCountiesMove-menttoradicallyantifederal,ultraconservative,populist,anti-environ-277b cRandolphCourtmentalist,andso-calledPatriotgroupsintwenty-sixstates.HespeaksatsymposiumsorganizedbyWiseUseadvocacygroups,liketheWesternStatesCoalition,PeoplefortheWest!,andtheNationalFederalLandsConference,whichhascomeoutinsupportofprivatemilitias.ButCarverisnobomb-thrower.Heisanearnest,proudAmerican,intenselyloyaltohisfriendsandneighbors,anddeeplyconvincedthatthereissomethingprofoundlywrongwithagovernmentthathasassumedsomuchpowerintheirlives.HisisaloudvoiceinNyeCounty,buthebynomeansspeaksforeveryone.■ ■ ■AsfarasWayneHageisconcerned,Carver’scounty-supremacytheoriesarejustasbadasthecurrentfederalregulatoryapparatus.Theissue,asheseesit,isnotwhetherthefederalgovernment,thestategovernment,orthecountygovernmentshouldcontrolpubliclands;heregardsanyformofgovernmentownershipassocialism,andthusasun-American.WayneHageandIhavespentfourhoursintheStationHouseRestau-rant,drinkingcoffeeandtalkingaboutthelegalhistorythatleduptothe“rangewars”ofthe1980sand’90s.UnlikethefolksyCarver,Hageisstern,intimidating,anddeliberate.Hespeaksinabaritonevoicewithslow,measuredprecision.Therealissue,hesays,isnotwhichlevelofgovern-mentshouldoverseethewesternrangelands,butwhetherprivatecitizenshaverightstomanagethematall.Inhisbook,StormOverRangelands:PrivateRightsOnFederalLands,Hagearguesthattheymostcertainlydo.Heinsiststherearelong-establishedprivaterightstoforage,water,andmineralwealth,andthatHagev.UnitedStatescoulddecidethematteronceandforall.AfterDickCarver,WayneHageisthesecond-most-vocalfigureinNyeCountyonthesubjectoftheemotionalandlegalstateofwarthatexistsbetweenlocalcitizensandthefederalgovernment—”theLandsIssues,”asallofitssubordinatebattleshavecometobecalled.DickCarvermaybetheGeorgeWashingtonoftheCountiesMovement,butWayneHage’sprolongedfightswiththefederalgovernmentoverprivate-propertyrightshavemadehimaherooftheadvocatesofwhathascometobecalled“WiseUse.”Hageandhiswife,Jean,boughtaranchinPineCreek,eastofthemountainsbehindCarver’splace,inthespringof1978.TheyboughtitfromtheArculariusbrothers,whowantedoutafteryearsofstrugglingwithForestServiceregulations.TheForestServicewon’tcommentonthe278b cWhyThey’reMadcase,butbyallaccountsHageandtheForestServicewereliketheHat-fieldsandtheMcCoysfromdayone.TheystartedoutfightingoveraspringinMeadowCanyon.Hagesaidheownedtherightstothewaterthere,andhadtwocourtdecreestoproveit.Theforestrangerdisagreed,pipedwaterfromthespringintoarangerstation,andthenfencedthespringoffcompletelysonolivestockcouldgettoit.ThentheForestServicebeganservingHagewithcitations,declaringthathiscattlewereroamingoffhisallotment.TheclimaxcameinJuly1991,whentheForestServiceconfiscated108headofHage’scattle,soldthematauction,andbilledHagefortheircosts.Twomonthslater,Hage,whohadalreadyfoughtandbeatentheForestServicethreetimesinadministrativeappeals,filedhis$28-million“tak-ings”caseagainsttheUnitedStates.InMarch1996,JudgeLorenSmithdeniedagovernmentmotionforsummaryjudgment,rulingthatHagemightbeabletoprovetheexistenceofrangerights—ifhecouldprovethattherightswereinexistencepriortothewithdrawalofthelandforanationalforest,andthathisrightshavetheiroriginsinNevadastatelaw.Aftersevenyearsofdelays,duringwhichtimeHagespentmorethanamilliondollarsonlitigation,hiscasewasfinallyheardincourtinOctober1998.Hage’shistoricalandlegalargumentgoeslikethis:whiletheHome-steadActcreatedaneatprocessoffederallanddisposalintheMidwestinordertoencourageagricultureandpopulatetheregion,theMiningLawof1872,theTaylorGrazingAct,andotherlawscombinedtocreateamorecomplicatedprocessintheWest.Here,federallandsweredividedintowhatHagecallsthe“splitestate.”Thereisamineralestate—themineralwealthundertheland—andthereisasurfaceestate,whichincludeswaterrightsandforageforlivestock.Minersweretherebyabletomakeminingclaimsinmuchthesamewayhomesteaderswereabletocarvefarmsoutofthepublicdomain,andrancherswereabletoestablishprivaterangesfortheirlivestock.Allofthewesternstateshaveintheirconstitutions“disclaimerclauses,”whichinHage’sanalysisweremeanttoguaranteetheU.S.governmenttherighttofirstdisposalofthefederaldomain.Before1864,whenNevadawasnotyetastate,minersmadetheirclaimsandpaidtheirfeestothefederalgovernment.AfterNevadabecameastate,thedeedtothatclaimwasrecognizedunderstatelawasprivateproperty.Thesameprocess,Hageinsists,appliedtograzingandwaterrights.JudgeSmithhasacknowledgedthatHagemighthaveavalidargument.It’scertainlyapopularviewwiththeranchersinNye.Whentheylookoutovertherange,theydon’tseefederallandsonwhichtheyliveasgov-ernmenttenants:theyseeprivateproperty,cultivatedanddevelopedwith279b cRandolphCourttheirownfamilies’moneyandsweat.JoeFalliniseeshundredsofwellsandwaterpipelinesthathisfather,grandfather,aunts,andunclesdevel-opedattheirownexpense.Heseesvastgrazingallotments,onwhichhehadtopayinheritancetaxeswhenhisparentsdied,atotalofmorethan$830,000.Whenwefinishtalking,thelunchcounterandtablesintheStationHousearefilledwiththelate-afternooncoffeecrowd.Theambientchat-ter,interruptedonlybyabusboy’speriodiccrashingandbanging,keepsreturningtothesamethemes.“What’stheBLMgoodfor?Targetpractice,that’swhat.”“They’redrivingusintoextinction.”“Thebastardsareempirebuilding.”“It’seasternpeoplerunningwesternpeople’slives.”“Thesefederalagenciesarejustadamnjobsprogram.”“Thehospitalisabouttogounderandthere’snonewconstructionintown,butIbetchathey’llstillhavethemoneytobuildanewBLMbuild-ing.”“I’mproudofDickCarver.Atleastheshoveditbackintheirfaces.”“Yeah,butthatisn’ttherightwaytodoit.Youshouldgothroughthecourts,likeHageandFalliniandthem.”“Whatkindofcrapisthat?Youhavetobeabletoaffordgoodlawyerstosurvive?”“Look,wecan’thavenolandmanagement.”“Nobody’ssayingyoushould.Butthecowmenhavebeendoingitforahundredandfiftyyears.Theyknowwhatthey’redoing.”“Well,mostofthemareoverfifty.It’sadyinglifestyle.”280b EpilogueLEARNINGMOREFROMLASVEGASDavidLittlejohnThisisobviouslynotthelastwordonLasVegas.ItisnoteventhelastwordonLasVegastoday—which,forthisteamofreporters,meansLasVegasaswefounditbetweenfall1996andfall1998—letaloneLasVegasyesterdayorLasVegastomorrow.ThoseinterestedinthehistoryofthiscityshouldreadEugeneMoehring’sResortCityintheSunbelt:LasVegas1930-1970(asupdatedin1995),andtheLasVegaschaptersofJohnM.Findlay’sPeopleofChance:GamblinginAmericanSocietyfromColonialTimestoLasVegas(1986).Inadditiontothemillionsofwordsthathavebeenwrit-tenaboutthecasino-hotelsoftheStripandDowntown,aswellastheentre-preneurs,entertainers,gamblers,tourists,athletes,andcriminalsidentifiedwiththem,populararticlesandacademicstudieshaveaddressedthecity’swatershortage,environmentalproblems,racialminorities,laborrelations,newhousingdevelopments,andfeebleeffortsatplanning.Thiscollectionisnotevenascompleteaswewouldhavelikedtomakeit.TherealitiesofbookpublicationobligedustoomitBeckyQuinlan’schapteronthebeleagueredClarkCountySchoolDistrict—nowthenation’sninth-ortenth-largest,growingbytwelvethousandstudentsayear,theequivalentofonenewelementaryschooleverymonth.Inordertoreduceaswollenintroduction,Icutoutsegmentsdealingwithprofessionalandamateursports,thelocalculturalscene,andClarkCounty’seffortstoexpanditseconomicbase.Aftermanymonthsofwork,MichaelStrohfelt281b cDavidLittlejohnobligedtoabandonthemostelusivesubjectofall:anoverallassessmentofthesocialeffectsofagambling-basedeconomy.ThefinalreportonthissubjectbytheNationalGamblingImpactStudyCommission,appointedbyPresidentClintonandcongressionalleadersin1997,wasduetoappearinJune1999,afterthisbookhadgonetopress.Butgiventhesharpideo-logicalsplitinthecommission’smembership—whatonemembersawasmoralandsocialdecayanothersawaslegitimateentertainmentandasourceofeconomicrevival—IampresumingthattheNGISCwasnomoreablethanwasMr.Strohtodrawanyclear-cutandconvincingconclusions.Iregretinparticulartheabsenceoftwoproposedsections:onedealingwiththeUniversityofNevadaatLasVegas,theotherwiththeroleofMormonsandtheMormonchurchinsouthernNevada.Aftertalkingorcorrespondingwithmanymembersoftheuniversity’sfacultyandadminis-tration,andevaluatingasbestasIcouldthequalityofworkbeingdonethere,IconcludedthatUNLVwasafarmoreinterestingandproductiveplacethanitsreputationwouldleadonetobelieve.Thatreputationwasnationallyenlarged(thendarklytarnished)byUNLV’syearsasabasketballpowerundercoachJerryTarkanian(1973-92;NCAAchampions1990).“LasVegasisaneasyplacetoridiculeandahardplacetotakeseriously,”complainedLeonardZane,professorofphysicsandheadofthehonorspro-gramatUNLV,wherehehastaughtsince1973.Evenso,headded,“Wecanbecomeandinsomewayswealreadyareamajoruniversitynotonlyinthesouthwestbutnationally.”Prof.BoydEarlofchemistry,aformerdepart-mentchair,extrapolatingthegrowthandchangehehadseensince1976,insistedthat“UNLVwillbeamajoruniversitywithinafewdecades,despitethegamingindustry.”Infact,hewrote,“WhileinmanyrespectsUNLVhasimprovedsinceI’vebeenhere,forthemostpartLasVegashasnot.Frombeingauniversitythat,inmanypeople’sminds,wasnotgoodenoughforLasVegas,UNLVisgoingtobeauniversitythat’stoogoodforLasVegas.”ManyofusencounteredtheMormonpresenceinthecourseofourinvestigations,whichisnotsurprising.Holdingtodayapowerfarinexcessoftheirnumbers(whichareestimatedatabout7percentofthepopulation),theLatter-daySaintswerethecity’sfirstwhitesettlers,onamissionfromSaltLakeCityin1855.Althoughtheydonot(officially)smoke,drink,orgamble—andcanthusplaynodirectroleintheIndustry(aspecialdispensationpermitsClarkCountyMormonstoworkincasi-nos)—theytendtodominateareassuchasbanking,propertydevelop-ment,education,andseveralbranchesoflocalandstategovernment.Butitisdifficultfornon-Mormonstolearnmuchabouttheoperations,con-nections,andattitudesofthisunusuallysecretivegroup.TheleastonecansayisthatMormonsinpositionsofinfluenceinsouthernNevadaseemto282b cEpiloguebeespeciallycomfortablehiring,promoting,anddealingwithoneanother,whichsometimesgivestotheirinterlinkedoperationstheaspectofapowerfulprivateclub,fraternalorder,oralumninetwork.■ ■ ■MethodistpreacherTomGrey,founderanddirectoroftheNationalCoalitionAgainstLegalizedGambling,constantlycitesLasVegasanditsproblemsasawarningtoothercities,counties,andstatescontemplatingthelegalizationofcasinogambling.AsIwroteattheoutset,however,LasVegasistoospecial,toosingular—itis,afterall,theonlyAmericancitycreatedbycasinogambling—toofferanyclear-cutlessonstootherplacesthinkingofgoingthatroute.ButthatdoesnotmeanthatLasVegasisinnowayparadigmatic,apossiblemodelofwhatmanyotherAmericancitiesareorarebecoming.InaNovember1994TimecoverstoryonLasVegas,KurtAndersonexpressedwhathasnowbecomeacommonplace:ifthiscitynolongershocksorsurprises,itisbecausesomuchoftherestofthecountryhasadopteditsvaluesandstyle.“LasVegashasbecomeAmericanized,”hewrote,“and,evenmore,AmericahasbecomeLasVegasized.”Amongtheevidencehecitedwerenewsexclubsandcasinosacrossthecountry;thegiganticMallofAmerica;Vegas-styleentertainmentatpopconcertsandonBroadway;andtheglobalspreadoftheStripaesthetic.Thereremainurbancriticswhoperceive,intheevermorespectaculartouristprecinctsofLasVegas,amodelfor,oramirrorof,therestoftheUnitedStates.Twenty-fiveyearsafterRobertVenturiandhisassociatesdrewlessonsforarchitectsandplannersfromanearliergenerationofcasino-hotels,thephotomontagesofLearningfromLasVegaslookalmostrusticintheirsimplicity.GridlockedtrafficontheStriphasmadeabsurdtheVenturis’conceptofgiantsignsdesignedtobereadbypeopledrivingbyat“highspeed.”Evenso,Jean-LouisCohenconcludedin1997,“Noneoftheanalyses[they]madein1972wouldbecontradictedbytheastonish-ingaccelerationinthepaceofconstructionandtheinflationinthesizeofthearchitecturalstructuresthatweretofollow.”OneofthemostardentcontemporaryfollowersofVenturietal.isarchi-tectandcriticAlanHess(VivaLasVegas,1993).“TheLasVegasStriphasneverstoppedchanging,”hewroteinareviewoftheNewYorkNewYorkHotelin1997.“Butnow,withsuburbanareasgrowingdenserandmorevar-ied,withentertainmentvenuesgrowinginimportance,withthemesemerg-ingasamultifacetedapproachtoarchitecture,andwithgamblinganational283b cDavidLittlejohninterest,therestofthecountryisfinallycatchinguptoLasVegas….Forbetterorworse,theLasVegasStripprovidesanewmodelforpublicplaces.”ButnonewAmericanentertainmentvenueorgamblingprecinctiseverlikelytocatchuptothoseofLasVegas.MorepertinentmaybecriticsandobserverswhoventurebeyondtheStrip,andseeinthe“real”cityareplicaofdevelopmentstakingplaceelsewhere,andaportentofcitiestocome.FrancesAndertonandJohnChasewrite,WhiletheStripiscelebratedforitsbrazenexhibitionism,thepowerofitsimageryhasalsoactedtomaskthehumanandexperientialaspectsoflivingandworkinginLasVegas,andtheimpoverishmentofurbandesignanddailylifeintheremainderofthecity….LasVegasitself,asidefromtheStrip,isshockinglyordinaryandprosaic,representativeofotherAmericancitiesandofsuburbanarasofAmericancitieswhichhaveexperiencedmostoftheirgrowthrelativelyrecently.Indeed,thenon-Strip,non-FremontStreetLasVegasisnomoremythicorfantasticthanSaltLakeCity,UtahorBoise,Idaho.Becausemuchofitsgrowthissorecent,andtherewassolittlepreviousdevelopmentofinfra-structuretoshapeit,itslow-density,car-orientedurbanfabricdemon-stratesmoreclearlythanotherUScitiesthecurrentAmericanattitudestourbandesign.ThedominantfactordeterminingbuildingandcityplanninginLasVegasisexpedience,whetherthatisbuildingwithblocksinsimplevolumesorlargeslabcasinotowers.Anindividualbuildingissimplytheleastexpensiveenclosureofspacethatwillkeeptheoccasionalrainstormoutandtheever-presentair-conditionedairin.ThecityofLasVegasconsistsofmileuponmileofresidentialneigh-bourhoods.Untilrecently,one-storysingle-familyhomesmadeupmostofthehousingstock.ButeveninasprawlingmetropolitanareasuchasLasVegas,only50percentofcitizensnowliveinsingle-familyhouses,with7percentlivingindetachedmobilehomesand40percentinapartmentsorcondominiumtownhouses.ThenewtownhousecommunitiesofLasVegasarewalledandgatedsubdivisions,manyofthemmaster-plannedaroundgolfcourses,artificiallakes,shopsandschools.Drivingdowntheboulevardsthroughthesecommunitiesonepassesrowafterrowofwalled-offbackyards—nofrontdoors,nofrontporches,nosenseofcommunicationbetweenthemotoristandwhatheorsheisdrivingthrough.Gatedcommunitiesareequallyattractivetowealthyhomeownerswhowanttobephysicallyseparatedfromtherestofthecityastoseniorciti-zenswholikethesecurityandtoyoungworkingfamiliesforwhompropertyisaffordable.ThepopularityofthesefortifiedresidentialneighbourhoodstestifiestothepervasiveurbanparanoiathatcharacterisesLasVegas….284b cEpilogueNoneofthefeaturesofplannedcommunitiessuchastheLakesisuniquetoLasVegas—theycanbefoundinmanyotherAmericanurbanareas,particularlySunbeltcommunitiessuchasSanDiegoandPalmSprings.ButissafetosaythatLasVegasisprobablythelargestAmericancommunitytohavesuchahighproportionofitscitizenslivingbehindgatesandwalls.(LasVegas:TheSuccessofExcess,1997)Inmanyways,the“real,”thelocals’LasVegasrecallsotherrecentlyevolvedcitiesthroughoutthesouthernhalfoftheUnitedStates.LikeLasVegas,thesedependfortheirsurvivalon“unnaturally”importedwater.Auto-dominatedlivingandplanningleadtointolerabletrafficcongestionandairpollutionaspopulationsgrow.Stripmallsalongsix-laneboule-vardspunctuatewalledandgatedhousingtracts.Large,ancillary“third-world”serviceeconomiesgrow,madeupofcorporatedomesticservantsandround-the-clocktelephoneanswerers.Intheend,someofthesecitiesdependonatourismasabsoluteastheCaribbean’sorTahiti’s,inwhichminimum-wagelocalssurvivebywaitingonandcleaningupafterextrav-agant,short-termvisitors.“Postmodern”citieslikethesehavebeenanalyzedbyanewgenerationofurbanologists,takingtheircluesfromFrenchtheoristslikeMichelFou-caultandJeanBaudrillard.Suchpeopleoftenprofessscornforold-fash-ioned,value-laden,“historicist”criticswhofindfaultwiththingslikegiantbillboardsandparkinglots,stripmallsfilledwithchainstores,or“whatusedtobecalled‘urbansprawl.’”ThefocusofpostmodernurbantheoryremainsfixedonLosAngeles,whichisseennotasaplacetobederided,butasapresentandfuturereal-ity,aphenomenontobestudied—oratleastuponwhichtoconstructnewtheories.SeveralurbantheoristsseizeduponJohnPortman’s1986BonaventureHotelin“downtown”LosAngeles—acomplexoffivebronzed-glasscylindersenclosingwedge-shapedrooms,numerousshop-pingandeatingplaces,andahigh,hard-to-readinternalatrium—astheiconicpostmodernplace,a“newhyperspace”(asMichaelJamesonwrotein1991)that“wedonotyetpossesstheperceptualequipmenttomatch.”ButanyoneofadozenhotelsinLasVegas,letalonethecityitself,wouldhavesuitedaswell,meetingastheydotherequirementsforMichelFoucault’s1967conceptofa“heteropia”:atotallyalien,disconnectedspace,inwhich“thejuxtapositionofheterogeneouselementsissoincon-gruousanddisuptivetoournormalsenseoforderthatweareunabletorealizesuchperversitywithinacoherentandfamiliardomain.”EdwardSoja,anAmericanmemberofthisschool,preferstofocusonLosAngelesas“thequintessentialpostmodernmetropolis”becauseonecan285b cDavidLittlejohnstilltraceinittheshiftfromaport-andfactory-based“modern”citytotheprototypicalAmericancityofthefuture:ametropolitanareadependentonleisureandserviceindustries,withtheirlegionsoflow-paid,oftenimmi-grantworkers;acityspreadinglikearunawaycancer,spawningintheprocessinstantnewurban-suburbannodes,withtheirownsocialdisordersandinstantlycongestednewfreeways.SojafocusesonanotherinterestingaspectofthetransformationoftheLosAngelesconurbationfromamodernintoapostmodernmetropolis:theoverwhelmingspreadoftheartificialinplaceofthereal,fromfilmandtelevisionstudiostomammoththemeparks,thentostage-setstreets,malls,andbuildingsalloverthearea.LasVegas,likeanumberofotherborn-yesterdayboomtownsoftheSunbeltwhichareyoungerthanL.A.,neverwentthroughthetraditionalphasesofurbangrowth.Bythetimeitbecameacity—ofhalfamillionin1979,ofamillionin1996—alltheseparadigmswerealreadyinplace.Inmanyways,LasVegasseemstomeaheadofL.A.intheracetobecomethefirstpurelypostmoderncity—antihistoric,uncentered,prisonlike,andpurposelydisorienting.Itwasintosupersurveillanceandguard-gating,letalonetheubiquitousderealizingofthereal,wellbeforeLosAngeleswas.Tome,itmakesbotheconomicandsymbolicsensethatthelargestpri-vateemployerinClarkCountyoutsidethecasino-hotelsisapaternalistic,employee-friendlycredit-cardprocessingfactory,the“serviceindustry”parexcellence.Insideawide-spreading,white,blue,andglassbuildingfulloffakecactusandsouthwesternartninemilesoutonWestSahara,1,400workers(teensandseniorswelcome;nocollegedegreerequired)answer100,000phonecallsand“process”600,000statementsorpaymentseveryday.Undertightsecurity,theycontrolmachinesthatimprintandissue15millionnewpiecesofplasticayear.Credit-cardholdersaroundthecoun-trybelievethatthisclassicheteropiaislocatedinanonexistentcitycalledTheLakes,Nevada.Butthen,nooneeverknowswheretherespondenttoan(800)phonecallmaybesitting.■ ■ ■Icannotpretendthatourteamofreportersandphotographer—mostofusfromolder,moretraditionalcitiesandtowns—foundLasVegas,onthewhole,attractiveorappealing.Butagreatmanypeople,includingnatives,newcomers,andvisitors,seeinthisuniqueplacethemodelofaliberatedAmericancity,freeoftheheavyhandsofthePast,theEast,andtheProper.OneofthemostprovocativenewdefendersofLasVegasisartcriticDaveHickey,whoarrivedherein1990fromFortWorthbywayof286b cEpilogueSanDiego.Inananti-establishment,bad-boystylethatrecallsbothHunterS.ThompsonandTomWolfe(withaTexasbiteandabounceallhisown),HickeymakesapointofdefendingtheLasVegasethicandaes-theticagainsttheimaginedvaluesofstuffyEastCoastcuratorsandcritics(“Bettervulgaritythanentrenchedideasabouttaste”),ortheAmericanheartland,orhisowndiscontentedcolleaguesatUNLV.SinceImustregularlyventureoutofVegasontothebleaksavannasofhighculture,andthere,likeanaginggigolo,generatebodilyresponsestoincreas-inglyabjectobjectsofdesire,thereisnothingquiteasbracingastheprospectofflyinghome,ofswoopingdownintothatardentexplosionoflightsintheheartofthepitch-blackdesert—ofcominghometotheonlyindigenousvisualcultureontheNorthAmericancontinent,atownbereftofdeadwhitewalls,graywoolcarpets,ficusplants,andBarcelonachairs—wherethereiseverythingtoseeandnotasinglepretentiousobjectdemandingtobescruti-nized.(AirGuitar:EssaysonArtandDemocracy,1997)HickeyhaswrittencheekyessaysindefenseoftheineffableSiegfriedandRoyandtheirculturalprogenitor,Liberace.HeinsiststhatheprefershisviewoftheStripbynight(helivesinahigh-riseonDesertInnRoad)totheboringsunsetbehindit.It’sspectacular,orcourse,andeven,occasionally,sublime(ifyoulikesub-lime),buttomyeyesthatsunsetisalwaysfake—asflatandgaudyasaBar-nettNewmanandjustaspretentious….Oneeitherprefersthehonestfakeryoftheneonorthefakehonestyofthesunset—theundisguisedarti-ficeofcultureortheculturalconstructionof“authenticity”—thegenuinerhinestone,finally,ortheimitationpearl.DespiteHickey’sbravado,IknowofnootherU.S.metropolitanareaofLasVegas’ssizeandprosperitysolackinginestablishedculturalinstitu-tions.Theoverweeningpresenceofanindustrythatearns$6billionayearsellingwhatitcallsentertainment—entertainmentthat,unlikemovies,records,sports,theater,ormusic,isbasedexclusivelyonthehandingbackandforthofcash—mayhavesomethingtodowiththelowesteeminwhichmoresubtleandlessprofitableformsofdiversionareheld.ThisisnottosaythatLasVegasshouldaspiretobeMinneapolis(acityMayorJonessometimescitedasherrolemodel),orPhoenix,orSantaFe,oranywhereelse.Althoughtheymaybeimplodedandreplacedfromtimetotime,thecasino-hotelsoftheStriparenotgoingtodisappear.What-everLasVegasbecomeswhenitgrowsup—andthisappliestoitsculturalaswellasitseconomicandeducationalself—itwillhavetocometotermswiththeIndustry,capitalizeonit,takeitintoaccount.Idoubtthatany287b cDavidLittlejohncityaslivelyasLasVegaswillremainunidimensional.ButasProfessorZaneofUNLVremindedus,“IbelievesomepeoplearestilltryingtoevaluateLasVegasbyasetofstandardsthatweredevelopedforadifferentcentury.LasVegasisdifferentandwillremaindifferentaslongasitexists.Tosayitlacksthecultureofthisplaceorthatistomissthepoint.”ManyconditionsrecordedinthisbookwillberecognizedbyAmericansfromotherstatesandcities:vaguelyreligious,feel-goodmegachurches;ThirdWorldimmigrantsdoingmostofthehardwork;arapidaccommo-dationtoanincreasingly“invisible”homelesspopulation;teenageanomie,withitsattendantdruguse,carelesssex,casualcrime,andsuicide;oldpeo-plelivingouttheirlivesinenclaveswhereyoungpeopleneverintrude;andfamilies,orwhatisleftoffamilies,retiringtoisolatedandgatedsuburbs,theirdaysbrokenbylongerandlongerautomobilecommutesandbytripstostripmallsandfast-foodoutletsalongtraffic-cloggedboulevards.Allthisoccurs,inLasVegasasinotherplaces,inapostmodernurbannexussurroundedbygolfinggreensbutdevoidofacenter,witharetaileconomyalmostentirelycreatedbycorporatedecisionsmadeelsewhere.Inmanyways,LasVegas—quiteapartfromitsdominantindustry—doesrepresentthefuture,andincreasinglythepresent,oftheurbanandsuburbanUnitedStates.ThepopulationofthiscountryhastiltedtowardthecitiesoftheSunbelt,nowamajorlocusofbothtourismanddomesticandforeignmigration.This,afterall,iswherethejobsare,aswellasthesunshine,secu-rity,andcreaturecomfortssoughtbyever-increasinglegionsoftheold.Thegeographicisolationism,politicalunconcern,andeconomicselfishnessofLasVegans,theirincreasingwillingnesstoliveingatedcommunitiesofthemind,arehardlyconditionsoffin-de-siècleAmericanlifeuniquetoLasVegas.Aswehaveseen,theheavyhandoftheIndustryaffectsthelives,atti-tudes,andexpectationsofthousandsofLasVegans,whatevermayhavebroughtthemtothecityinthefirstplace.Bingohalls,neighborhoodcasi-nos,theslotandvideo-pokermachinesinhundredsoflocalstorestemptmostofthepopulationtogambleregularly.Thestill-growingjobmarketofthemegahotelsabsorbsvastnumbersofnewresidents,demandingforthemostpartahardworkingbutuneducatedworkforce.Itpersuadesmanyyoungpeopletostoptheireducationearly,and,perhapsmostimportant,hasmademuchofLasVegasathree-shift,24-hour-a-daytown,withalltheimplicationsthatsituationbearsforfamilylife,schoolschedules,andteenagebehavior.Morethan30percentofthecounty’spublicschoolchildrenchangeschoolseveryyear,largelybecauseofhighjobturnoverandtransienceintheadultpopulation.TheoverwhelmingpresenceoftheIndustryhasnotmadeiteasyforClarkCountytoattractotherkindsofbusiness,orforUNLVtoflourish288b cEpilogueasitmightinacitywithadifferenteconomicbase.Becauseofitsroleasthenationalcenterofsportsgambling,LasVegashasneverbeenpermit-tedtohouseamajor-leaguebaseball,football,orbasketballteam.Onereasonoftengivenforthecity’srelativelythinculturalofferings(alongwiththedemographicimbalancecausedbyundereducatedservicework-ersandcocooningretirees,neitherofwhomaremuchintothearts)isthattheycouldnevercompetewiththeshowroomsontheStrip.Tensofthousandsofworkersandtheirfamiliesaredrawnbythenewjobsthatopenupwhennewcasino-hotelsarebuiltandstaffed.ButevenmoretensofthousandsaredrawntoLasVegas,astootherAmericansun-beltcities,becauseitseemstothemcheap,healthy,andwarm,agoodplacetowork,toraisechildren,ortoretire.TheClarkCountySchoolDistricthastohiremorethan1,400newteachersayear,mostofwhomitdrawsfromotherstatesbymeansofgoodsalariesandpromisesofjobsecurityand“instant”seniority:afterall,therewillbeanother1,400teachersbehindthemnextyear.Architects,engineers,andotherprofessionalsareoftenabletofindmorestableandbetter-payingjobsherethantheyareinolder,moretraditionalAmericancities;duringCalifornia’srecessioninthelate’80sandearly’90s,greatnumbersofthemmovedtoNevada.Smallbusinessesblos-som,sproutingateveryintersectionmallasthecityexpandsintothedesert.TheboomthatisLasVegasmayhavehaditsseedintheexpansionofthecasino-hotelsandtheirservantindustries,butithaslongsinceassumedanindependentlifeofitsown,andtodayislittledifferentfromsimilarboomsinPhoenix,FortLauderdale,orHouston.Moreworkersareemployedbuildingnewhousesthanontheswarming,relativelyshort-livedconstructionsitesontheStrip.Asitpassestheone-millionpopulationmark,evenawidespread,essentiallyunplannedagglomerationlikeLasVegasmaybegintofeelandactmorelikeacity.Itscitizensmaybegintocaremoreaboutthingsliketheproperdispersionofpoliticalpower;thepresenceofgenuineandindigenousculturalamenities;thevalueofgoodarchitecture,andtheimportanceofparks;thequalityofpubliceducation;andanhonestcom-ingtotermswiththeenvironment,typifiedbythenewClarkCountyGovernmentCenterandthedesert-friendlyplanninginSummerlin.Tolearnitslessons,wemustlookcloselyatallofLasVegas,awayfromtheStripandDowntown.Unlesssomethingsingularandunpredictablehappenstoalterthebendofhistory,thisiswhattheUnitedStatesmaywelllooklikeforamajorityofitscitizenssometimeinthenextcentury.Butbecauseofitsuniquelygambling-dominatedpast,present,andalmostcertainfuture,LasVegaswillremain,forbetterorworse,oneofakind.289b LISTOFILLUSTRATIONSFirstInsertRoulettedealerCasinoonFremontStreetNightCustomer,PioneerPawnBroncorider,NationalFinalsRodeo,Thomas&MackCenterNightbaseballatCashmanFieldBingoplayers,Sam’sTownBlackjacktable,Sam’sTownShowgirlatMGMGrandSlotmachinesinsupermarketMormonTempleHomesinnewsubdivisionNewconstruction,viewoverLasVegasValleyMexicanworkersatconstructionsiteUnionorganizeratworkConstructionworkersnearLuxorHotelEndofshift,MandalayBayHotelsite,1998SecondInsertLookingwestonBonanzaRoadtowardsDowntownandSpringMountainsTrafficonLasVegasBoulevardNorth291b cListofIllustrationsAdvertising:nudeclub,weddingchapelBillboardsandschoolbus,LasVegasBoulevardNorthArrestatastripmallHomelessonthestreetCellA2,JuvenileDetentionCenterTeenagersatRedRockCanyonTeenagersatstripmallChangegirlsatneighborhoodcasinoInformationcenteratLatinoswapmeetStripmallbarinafternoonsunPoolplayersinMexicanbarPastoratSundayservice,GreaterPhiladelphiaChurchChoiratGreaterPhiladelphiachurchHomelessmaninhisprivateshelter292b NOTESONCONTRIBUTORSDavidLittlejohn(editor),ofSanFrancisco,studiedarchitectureandEng-lishattheUniversityofCaliforniaatBerkeley,andreceivedhisPh.D.inEnglishatHarvardin1963,theyearhejoinedtheBerkeleyfaculty.From1969to1997,hetaughtintheGraduateSchoolofJournalism.Between1965and1975,heservedas“CriticatLarge”forKQED(SanFrancisco)andthePBSnetwork,forwhomhewroteandbroadcastmorethan200programsorreviews.HewasaWestCoastartscorrespondentfortheLondonTimesfrom1975to1989,andhasbeenservingasimilarrolefortheWallStreetJournalsince1990.Hehaspublishedmorethan300articlesandreviewsfornewspapersandmagazinesintheUnitedStates,England,Italy,andFrance.Littlejohnhaswrittenoreditedtwelveearlierbooks:sixonliterarysubjects;twonovels;agenealogical-historicalessay;Architect:TheLifeandWorkofCharlesW.Moore(1984);TheUltimateArt:EssaysaroundandaboutOpera(1992);andTheFateoftheEnglishCountryHouse(1997).(dtl@uclink4.berkeley.edu)EricGran(photographer),ofSanJose,California,receivedhisB.A.andM.J.degreesfromtheUniversityofCaliforniaatBerkeley.Hehastrav-elledandphotographedextensivelyinEasternEurope,Asia,andtheUnitedStatessince1985.AfterbeingawardedtheDorotheaLangeFel-lowshipforDocumentaryPhotographyin1995,hephotographedlifein293b cNotesonContributorstheIndianstateofOrissaforaforthcomingbook,Jagannath.Recentpro-jectsincludeastoryonexplorersattemptingtowalkacrossthefrozenBeringStrait(AlaskaMagazine),thedeclineofthemovieindustryinHongKong(LosAngelesTimes),andtheeffortsofanOregontreatmentcentertouncovertherootsofviolenceinchildren(PBSFrontlineon-line).HereceivedagranttophotographtheWWIIgenerationofship-yardworkersfromtheSouthinOakland,California,andisatworkonadocumentarystudyoftheSiliconValley.HealsoservesaslabassistantandprintertophotographerWayneMiller.(ericgran@excite.com)ThefollowingcontributorshaveallreceivedMasterofJournalismdegreesfromtheUniversityofCaliforniaatBerkeley,wheremostoftheresearchforthisbookwasundertaken.RandolphCourt,ofRichmond,Virginia,hasaB.A.inAmericanstudiesfromtheUniversityofCaliforniaatSantaCruz.HehasbeenawriterandeditoratHyperAgeandWiredNewsinSanFrancisco;aninternatPacificNewsService;astaffwriterfortheSanDiegoDailyTranscript;andaresearcher/writerfortheCenterforInvestigativeReportinginSanFran-cisco.HeisnowatechnicalpolicyanalystattheDemocraticLeadershipCouncilProgressivePolicyInstituteinWashington.BillDauber,ofWhittier,Calif.,hasaB.A.inhistoryfromtheUniversityofCaliforniaatIrvine.AbilingualreporterofMexicanheritage,hehasworkedasanassistanteditorforLaVozMestiza;astaffwriterforTheNewUniversityatIrvine;aninternattheSeattleTimes;andasportswriterfortheOrangeCountyRegister.HeisnowareporterfortheWhittier(Calif.)DailyNews.MalcolmGarcia,ofSantaRosa,Calif,hasaB.A.inEnglishfromCoeCollege,Iowa,andanM.S.W.degreefromSanFranciscoStateUniver-sity.HehasworkedforthirteenyearswithhomelesspeopleandrefugeesinSanFrancisco,wherehefoundedandeditedByNoMeans,amonthlymagazinebyandforhomelesspeople.TheauthorofDivisionPoint(1991),acollectionofshortstories,hehasalsoworkedasareporterfortheS.F.WeeklyandwrittenfortheSanFranciscoChronicle.AfterworkingasareporterforthePhiladelphiaInquirer,heisnowattheKansasCityStar.MaiaHansen,ofSanFrancisco,receivedherB.A.inEnglishfromDart-mouthCollege.ShehasworkedasawriterfortheBerkeleyGuidesseries,SeattleWeekly,andNorthwestPhotoNetwork,andasadesktoppublisher294b cNotesonContributorsandeditoratTheLearningCompany.Anextensivetraveler,sheisnowaneditorfortheLonelyPlanetseriesoftravelbooks.JoeHeim,ofPhiladelphia,hasaB.A.inEnglishfromVillanovaUniversity.HehasworkedasacorrespondentfortheWestCountyTimesandContraCostaTimesinCalifornia;aneditorialassistantforCancerResearch;aseniorprogramadministratorfortheSouthAfricanEducationProgram(InstituteforInternationalEducation,Washington);atenantadvocateinBaltimore;andafreelancemusiccritic.HeworkedasacriticandreporterfortheSeat-tleTimes,andareporterforEducationDailyinWashington,D.C.AndreaLampros,ofPortland,receivedherB.A.inAmericanhistoryfromMillsCollege.ShehasservedasaCongressionalintern;acoordinatorfortheWashington,D.C.,CommitteeinSolidaritywiththePeopleofElSalvador;aproductionassistantforaTime/LifeTelevisiondocumentaryonIncancivilizationsinPeru;anassociatedirectoroftheNationalSanc-tuaryDefenseFundinSanFrancisco;andasareportinginternattheRenoGazetteandtheSacramentoBee.SheisnowtheeducationreporterfortheContraCostaTimesinCalifornia.LoriLeibovich,ofNewton,Mass.,hasaB.A.inAmericanhistoryfromtheUniversityofWisconsinatMadison.Shehasworkedasafact-checkerforU.S.News&WorldReportandareporterfortheMontereyCountyHer-ald.HerwritinghasappearedintheEastBayMonthly,SanFranciscoFocus,MotherJones,andtheSanJoseMercuryNews.AfterservingasassociateeditorattheonlinemagazineSalon,basedinSanFrancisco,shejoinedthestaffofTalkmagazineinNewYork.MichelleLing,ofLosAngeles,hasaB.A.inanthropologyfromtheUniver-sityofCaliforniaatBerkeley.ShehasworkedasamarketingrepresentativeforEMIRecords;alegalassistantataSanFranciscolawfirm;areportinginternatthePointReyesLight(Calif.);andaninternetreporterforthe“StateoftheWorldForum,”heldinSanFranciscoin1996.SheisassistanteditorofCaliforniaMonthly,theUniversityofCaliforniaalumnimagazine.NefretitiMakenta,ofWashington,D.C.,isagraduateinEnglishfromUticaCollegeofSyracuseUniversity.ShehasbeenanEnglishteacherintheUpwardBoundprogramattheUniversityofCaliforniaatBerkeley.InWashington,sheco-producedandhostedatelevisionprogramofvideo-musiccriticism,andworkedasawriterandfundraiserforthecity’sDepartmentofRecreationandParks.Shehasservedasmanagingeditor295b cNotesonContributorsoftheBayAreaBlackStudentJournal;awriterforNonProfitTimesandtheOaklandPost;andareportinginternattheWashingtonCityPaper.In1998-99,sheproducedanindependentvideodocumentaryabouttheblackpoetryrevivalinWashington.LisaMoskowitz,ofSt.Louis,hasaB.A.inpoliticalscienceandhistoryfromDukeUniversity.ShehasworkedasastaffassistanttoRepresenta-tiveJoanKellyHorn(D.-M.),apressinterntoSenator(nowRepresenta-tive)RichardGephardt(D.-M.),andasamarketing-communicationsspecialistfortheFederalNationalMortgageAssociation(FannieMae)inWashington.ShehaswrittenfortheGrantsPassDailyCourier(Ore.),Adweek,andtheonlinemagazineSalon.HavingworkedforayearasaneditorforPCWorldOnlineinSanFrancisco,shenowwritesforanumberofpublications,andworksasaWebcontentconsultant.MarieSanchez,ofStockton,Calif.,anativeSpanishspeaker,receivedherB.S.inBiologicalSciencefromtheUniversityofCaliforniaatDavisandherM.A.inLatinAmericanStudiesfromtheUniversityofCaliforniaatBerkeley.AfteracareerasagrantsadministratorandwriterattheUniver-sityofCaliforniaatSanFranciscoandahuman-resourcesmanageratPacificBell—aswellasavolunteerteacherinmigrant-laborcamps—sheworkedasareporterfortheSalinasCalifornianandtheinternationaldia-betesWebsite.ShenowwritesonhealthandsciencefortheBostonGlobeandotherpublications.Virginia(Jenna)Ward,ofSanFrancisco,receivedherB.A.inhistoryfromtheUniversityofCaliforniaatSantaCruz.ShehasworkedasareportinginternattheSonoraUnionDemocrat(Calif.),astaffwriterfortheSantaRosaPressDemocrat(Calif.),aninternandstringerfortheNewYorkTimes(SanFranciscoBureau),andawriterforTheRecorder,SanFrancisco’slegalnewspaperandtheLegalTimesofWashington,D.C.HeatherWorld,ofSeattle,receivedherB.A.inhistoryfromUCLA.AfterworkingfortheGuardianNewsweeklyandWNYCRadioNewsinNewYork,shewroteforanumberofNewYorkpublications.InSanFrancisco,sheworkedasaproductionassistantatS.F.WeeklyandawriterforCallboardmagazine.SheisareporterfortheSanMateoCountyTimes.296b INDEXAsalloftheessaysinthisbookdealwithLasAmalgamatedClothingandTextileWorkersVegas(GreaterLasVegas,LasVegasValley),Union(ACTWU),193ClarkCounty,orNevada,therearenoindexAmbassadorCityHotel,Thailand,7entriesforthesegeographicalareas.ReferencesAmericanChamberofCommerce,28toareassuchastheStrip(LasVegasBoulevardAmericanNevadaCorp.,151South)andDowntown,individualcitystreets,AmericanWestHomes,159andsuchcommontopicsascasinos,gambling,AnacondaCo.,16,265hotels,andtourism,generally,arealsounin-Anaheim,CA,6dexed.“Anderson,Andy,”251–52Anderson,Jack,163–65Abernathy,Greg,49–51Anderson,Kurt,283abortion,6;teen,76Anderson,Orlando,249ACLU(AmericanCivilLibertiesUnion),43Anderton,Frances,284–85ACTscores,8AndyGriffithShow,The,167Adelson,Sheldon,184,189,191antifederalism,37,38,259–80passimAdvancedTechnologiesAcademy,127–28,129Appel,PastorGene,168,175,177,178–79AFL-CIO,182,185,193,195,196,197,200AquaVision,140,141,143AfricanAmericans.SeeBlacksAragon,Stefoni,194,195,198Ahearn,Thomas,7Arculariusbrothers,278AirGuitar:EssaysonArtandDemocracyArizona,103,135,136,144,149,207(Hickey),287ARKCorp.,189–91Alaska,8Arnodo,Glen,184,187,188Albuquerque,NM,9,27,166Arnold,Jim,186–87alcoholconsumption,alcoholism,6,24,52,84,AssociatedBuildersandContractorsofSouth-85,240ernNevada,199Allen,JamesB.,15–16Atlanta,GA,8,207–208297b cIndexAtlanticCity,NJ,4,6,37,255Brown,Barry,255Aurora,CO,5Brown,Bruce,170automobileaccidents,6BrownDerby,116Bryant,Dorothy,95–96Babbitt,SecretaryBruce,144building.Seeconstruction“babyboomers,”169,174,175,176,178BuildingTradesOrganizingProject,LasVegasBailey,Pearl,130(B-TOP),193–99Baker,Sue,140,141,143Bunch,Cheryl,190–91Balloqui,Al,198–99Bunker,Richard,20–21BankofAmerica,116Burdett,Elena,98–99,100bankruptcy,7,9Burns,George,130banks,117Butler,Jim,265,270Barr,Douglas,Sr.andJr.,251Butte,MO,16Barrett,Charlene,249BasicMagnesium,Inc.SeeBMICorp.Cacias,Lalo,184Baudrillard,Jean,285CadillacDesert,144Belafonte,Harry,116,130Cahlan,John,135Bennett,William,136California,14,107,135,136,143,144,149,166,289Berry,Candy,68CaliforniaStatePolytechnicUniversity,SanBible,William,187LuisObispo,275Biloxi,MS,6,37,255CalloftheWild(London),58bingo,23,69–73Camilo’sBallroom,77BingoNoveltyWorld,73Campos,Quirino,182Binion,Benny,254–55,262;Ted,255;familyof,187Canty,Hattie,192birthrate,6CanyonGate(subdivision),11,152“BlackBook,”250–51CanyonRidgeChristianChurch,168–69,BlackBookandtheMob,The(CaseandFarrell),171–72,173–74251CarpentersandJoinersofAmerica,UnitedBlacks,24,103,109–31Brotherhoodof,193Blascoe,Keith,22,257CarsonCity,NV,20Blevin,Rance,255Carver,Dick,264,266–78,280BLM.SeeU.S.BureauofLandManagementCarver,Midge,267Blue,Richard,110,124CarverPark,115BMICorp.,115,136,157,159,260Case,Carole,251Bock,Anthony,201–203,213casinos,neighborhood,23–24BonanzaVillage(subdivision),115Caskey,John,208–209,213–14BonaventureHotel,LosAngeles,285Castleman,Deke,218Bonnefant,Brian,100CatholicCharities,38,41,42,51Bottfield,Stephen,151CatholicChurch,the,Catholics,31,38–39,81,BoulderCity,NV,2,14,15,115,135,159,248,259106,169–70,172BoulderDam.SeeHooverDamCatholicWorkermovement,52,56Boydfamily,187CenterforDiseaseControlandPrevention,76Boyd,Joe,171–72,178CentralChristianChurch,167–70,172,174–79BoysandGirlsClubs,31,121Champney,William,263Brady,OfficerChristopher,247–78ChaparralHighSchool,78,79–80Bramlet,Elmer(Al),186–87,200Chase,John,284–85Bramlett,George,210,211–12,213Chi,Faye,152–56Brass,Ken,124Chicago,IL,7,244brothels,25–29,219–23;customersof,227–28,churches,9,24,31,167–79.Seealso230;feesandincomeof,228–29;individual:“megachurches”ChickenRanch,221–22;MustangRanch,222;Cimmaron-MemorialHighSchool,89MustangII,222;Sheri’sRanch,220–23Cipolla,Part,253BrowardCounty,FL,5CircusCircusEnterprises,Inc.,3298b cIndexCirqueduSoleil,77CountySupremacyMovement,261,264,277Citibank,33,286Cram,Brian,17,122Civella,“TonyRipe,”250crime,22,243–58;cheatingandtheftincasinos,Clark,SenatorWilliam,135250–53;counterfeiting,257;fraud,255–57;sta-ClarkCountyBoardofCountyCommission-tistics,7–8,246,249,252;theft,256–57.Seealsoers,13,34,120LasVegasMetropolitanPolice;Mob,the;ClarkCountyDepartmentofFamilyandYouthsecurityforces,privateServices,85“CrystalCathedral”(GardenGroveCommu-ClarkCountyDistrictAttorney,256nityChurch),CA,170ClarkCountyGovernmentCenter,120,289CulinaryUnion(HERE,Local226),19,21,25,ClarkCountyPlanningCommission,13181–92,193,195,196,200ClarkCountyDepartmentofParksandRecre-culturallife,36,287–88,289ation,214Curtis,Leslie,196–97ClarkCountyDepartmentofPublicHealth,88ClarkCountySchoolDistrict,88,128,281,289Dammann,Adair,192ClarkCountyDepartmentofSocialServices,126Dauber,Bill,24classconsciousness,36Daugherty,Joe,182Cliffordfamily,263,269,270,272;Cougar,263,Davis,Sammy,Jr.,130270;Ed,Jr.,270–71;Ed,Sr.,270;Gladis,270;Day,Dorothy,56Joe,271;Roy,Jr.,263,270–71;Roy,Sr.,263,DaysInn,98270–71Deacon,James,138,145climate.SeeweatherDees,Morris,267Clinton,PresidentBill,187,282DelWebbCorp.,151Closky,Ruth,65DesertDemonstrationGardens,142Cobb,PoliceLieutenantDennis,248,249–50,DesertResearchInstitute,138,142252,257DesertShores(gatedcommunity),162Cohen,Jean-Louis,283Detroit,MI,17Cole,Erin,136,143Diamond,Jack,84–85Colorado,135,144Dickie,Gordon,243–44Coloradoriver,135,136–67,138–39,142,143,144,DisneyEnterprises,Walt,6145Disneyland,5ColoradoRiverCompact(1922),135–36,139,144DisneyWorld,240ColumbiaSunriseHospital,98,191–92divorceanddivorcerate,8,84Colvin,Tom,269,271Donnelly,David,134,138,141,142,143,144,145Coolidge,PresidentCalvin,272Dowling,Brian,129Combs,E.Les,254,255Drobkin,Bill,203;andErminia,210,213Comdex,7,226–27,238.Seealsoconventionsdrugs,dealinganduseof,24,52,76,78,79,81,community,senseof,30–31,83,122–2383–86,226,246CommunityDevelopmentProgramCenterofDuis,PoliceDetectiveLarry,255–56Nevada,126DurangoHighSchool,82CommunityHealthCenter,43,52CompanyTownintheAmericanWest,TheEarl,Boyd,282(Allen),15–16EastmanKodakCo.,16companytowns,15–17EbonyClub,116conservationmovement,historyof,268–69EconomicOpportunityBoard,44,47construction,5–6,150–51,154,156,161,165,195,Edmond,John,113,117,118,121,131289;workers,100,102–105,192–96Eicher,Ray,254conventions,7,228.SeealsoComdexElMorocco,116Coolidge,PresidentCalvin,135ElMundo,100Cordiero,PoliceLieutenantCarlos,219ElPaso,TX,9Corro,Frank,100ElReyClub,77costofliving,28,29Elardi,Margaret,183;Tom,183;familyof,183–84CottonClub,116elderly,23,63–73299b cIndexEnterpriseBusinessPark,124Granados,Marlyn,77,81“ExtraterrestrialHighway”(StateHighway375),GreaterLasVegasChurchofChrist,169,170271,275Green,Elijah,114,116GreenValley(master-plannedcommunity),31,Fallinifamily,271,272;Anna,274–77;Giovanni,75,91,95,151,159–61271,277;Joe,271,272–77,280GreenValleyRanch(master-plannedcommu-Farrell,John,42nity),159Farrell,Ronald,251Greenbaum,Gus,244FashionShowMall,2,153,156Greenspun,Hank,159FBI.SeeU.S.FederalBureauofInvestigationGrey,ReverandTom,283FederalLandsPolicyManagementAct(1976),Griffin,Bob,251269GriffinInvestigations,251–52Fescher,Steven,255Grogan,Jim,193,197Ficker,Ed,58–59Findlay,JohnM.,281Hage,Jean,278Finn,Barry,255Hage,Wayne,264,278–80FirstAmericanTitleofNevada,149,165Hagev.UnitedStates,264,278–79Flint,MI,16Hall,Ashley,172Flint,George,222,223Harding,PresidentWarren,272Ford,Henry,58Harris,Jeff,13–14,143,161FortLauderdale,FL,289Hawkins,Frank,Jr.,121–27,131ForumShopsatCaesars,The,2,94“HelldoradoDays,”262Foster,Melvin“Poppa,”244Helvarg,David,267Foucault,Michel,285Henderson,NV,2,10,12,15,24,136,159,169,FoxwoodsCasino,CT,4248,260Franz,Volmar,81–82,96HERE(HotelandRestaurantEmployeesFremontStreetExperience,12,25,113,204,262InternationalUnion),182,187French,Richard,138,142Hess,Alan,283–84FringeBanking:CheckCashingOutlets,Pawn-heteropia,285shops,andthePoor(Caskey),208Hickey,Dave,286–87Frye,Leo,130,131Hill,Fred,66Fulton,William,17HiltonCorp.,245HispanicChamberofCommerce,80gangs,76,118,243,249Hispanics,22,24,39,77–81,97–107,182,194;gangsters.SeeMob,theimmigrationandpopulationincreaseof,99,Garcia,Malcolm,24100;incomesof,100Gates,Bill,177HolmanSecurity,254Gates,CommissionerYvonneAtkinson,120–21,HomeBuildersResearch,166126homebuilding.SeeconstructionGatheringStorm:America’sMilitiaThreathomesales,147–66(Dees),267homelesspeople,24,41–62GeneralMotorsCorp.,16HomesteadAct(1862),268,279German,Jeff,17,121Honolulu,HI,246,252GersonPark(subdivision),126HooverDam,32,114,135,196,259–60“GirlsofGlitterGulch”(club),204HorizonHighSchool,89GliddenCo.,49hotelrooms,total,7Gobel,Kurt,140,141hotelsandcasinos,LasVegas:Aladdin,106;Godfather,The,16ArizonaCharlie’s,66,67–73,102;Bally’s,94,golf,65,139,154253–54;Bellagio,106;Binion’sHorseshoe,67,GoodNewsInc.,49203,212–13,254–55,262;BoulderStation,23,Gore,VicePresidentAl,12767;CaesarsPalace,76,99,106;CircusCircus,Govan,Chet“Shortdog,”24410,90,190;Continental,3;DebbieReynolds,Granados,Anabel,76–813;DesertInn,244;Dunes,10;ElCortez,47;300b cIndexElRancho,262;Excalibur,190;Flamingo,Jensen,Joanna,197244,258;Fremont,245;Frontier,98,262;—Jews,169,172battlewithCulinaryUnion,181–84,191;GoldJicinsky,Terry,7Coast,3,26,77;GoldSpike,47,48;GoldenJohnson,Carl,118,120Nugget,262;Hacienda,10;HardRock,3;Johnson,Kevin,22,257Harrah’s,106,121,243–44,250,253;LasVegasJohnson,Magic,219Hilton,3,5,10,11,182;Luxor,3,98,106,194;Jones,Anthony,198MandalayBay,106;Maxim,3;MGMGrand,Jones,Brent,6819,77,94,97,98,106,187,249;—laborprob-Jones,Florence,135lems,184,188;Mirage,77,140,143,252–53;Jones,MayorJanLaverty,21,43,120,121,204,287MonteCarlo,194;MoulinRouge,103,115,Jones,John,214–15130–31;NewYorkNewYork,93,189–91,221,Joyce,Jim,21258,283;—laborproblems,190–91;PalaceJudson,Dean,151Station,23,152;Paris,3,106;RioSuites,3;Riviera,10,217,244;Sahara,106;Sam’sTown,Kefauver,SenatorEstes,26111,23,24,67,78;SanRemo,3;Sands,7,10,20,Kerkorian,Kirk,136,188106,186,188,191;SantaFe,23;SilverSlipper,KeyFoundation,42,51,52,59190;Stardust,10,217,245;Stratosphere,3,184,Kidneigh,Carol,159–60214;SunsetStation,23,24;TexasStation,23,Kidneigh,Roger,159–60,16667;Thunderbird,262;TreasureIsland,19,77,Kiely,Elaine,66–67140;Tropicana,106,217;UnionPlaza,47;King,Don,38Venetian,7,20,106;—labordispute,184,189,King,Rodney,118.Seealsoriots191;WesternCasino,47Kirkland,Lane,185housing,284–85;costsof,150,154,166;master-Kline,George,115,116plannedcommunities,148,158,160,284–85;Kline,Kevin,189subdivisionsof,148,156–57,160,284;—gated,Koenig,Steve,252–53148,152,284,286,288.Seealsoconstruction;Kovitz,Emma,65homesalesKronberg,Henry,204,213Houston,TX,17,289Kuhl,Dave,252HowardHughesCorp.,151,157HuckleberryFinn(Twain),58LaborExpress,58HUD.SeeU.S.DepartmentofHousingandlabormovement.Seeunions,laborUrbanDevelopmentLaborReady,198–99Hughes,Howard,38,136,137,157,244LaborersInternationalUnion,193,197;LocalHunt,Leigh,157872,194,197–99HuntridgeAddition(subdivision),157LakeLasVegas(master-plannedcommunity),Huntsinger,Ron,27313,14LakeMead,3,14,31,56,98,135,136–39,142,161IBMCorp.,16,17LakeMeadWaterQualityForum,138immigration.SeeHispanics;populationgrowthLakes,The(master-plannedcommunity),11,IndependenceDay,178162,285,286Indianreservations,gamblingon,4Lanni,J.Terrence(Terry),187,188Indians,Matachine,76–77;Paiute,134Larsen,Bob,250InstitutefortheStudyofAmericanReligion,169Larson,Erik,267InterstateHighwayAct(1956),260LasVegas:TheSuccessofExcess(AndertonandIronWorkers,InternationalAssociationof,195,Chase),284–85196LasVegasAdvisor,218Izenour,Steven,4LasVegasBay,137–38LasVegasBusinessJournal,189Jackson,Barbara,124LasVegasChamberofCommerce,34,136,197Jackson,Deborah,112–13LasVegasCityCouncil,120,123Jacoby,Yvonne,169,170LasVegasConventionandVisitorsAuthority,Jameson,Michael,2857,12,29,66,120301b cIndexLasVegasConventionCenter,11Martinez,Carlos,102–103LasVegasDivisionofEconomicDevelopment,MASH(MobileAssistanceandShelterforthe110,124Homeless)CrisisCenterandVillage,42,LasVegasEthicsReviewBoard,12543–44,49–51,52,59LasVegasHomesIllustrated,152,155master-plannedcommunities.Seehousing,orbyLasVegasHousingAuthority,123individualnameLasVegasLandandWaterCo.,135Maxey,Robert,188LasVegasMetropolitanPolice,9,19,22,23,42,Maybie,Bart,13146,76,118–20,245–50,252,255,257;vicesquadMcAfee,Guy,244of,218–19McCall,Jeff,186LasVegasMetropolitanStandardArea,3,5McCarran,SenatorPat,261LasVegasRedevelopmentAgency,12McCarranAirport,1,22,256–57LasVegasReview-Journal,17,123,125,197,204,McCormackPlace,Chicago,7251,261McDonald,Mike,126LasVegasSuicidePreventionHotline,95McDonald’s,80LasVegasSun,17,118,119,121,141,159,161,202,McGeorgeLawSchool,Sacramento,99248,255McKenna,Tim,154,160“LasVegas:2000andBeyond”(1989–90),12,123“megachurches,”168–70,172,174,176.SeealsoLasVegasWash,137churchesLatinos.SeeHispanicsMelton,Gordon,169Laughlin,NV,2Mendoza,Daniel,247Laws,Judy,140Merlino,Jim,265Lawson,Tom,152,155,156,160,162,163–65MetroPolice.SeeLasVegasMetropolitanPoliceLaxalt,GovernorPaul,137Mexican-Americans.SeeHispanicsLearningfromLasVegas(Venturietal.),4,283Mexico,135Lee,Richard,149,150,165MGMGrand,Inc.,189,245Leigh,JerryandThomas,111–12Miami,FL,8Leonard,Mike,121Miller,Marjorie,63LeviStrauss&Co.,32–33MiningAct(1872),268,279Lewis,Marzette,128Minneapolis,MN,287LewisHomes,199MirageResorts,Inc.,13,19,20,33,49,245Liberace,38,287Mob,the,37,186,187,244–46,249LiberaceMuseum,36Moehring,Eugene,281LincolnCounty,NV,145MohaveCounty,Arizona,3Ling,Michelle,23MojaveDesert,141Local226.SeeCulinaryUnionMontana,15London,Jack,58Moore,Michael,16Loretto,OfficerJohn,245MormonChurch(ChurchofJesusChristofLosAngeles,1,5,15,18,118,119,144,244,249–50,Latter-daySaints),Mormons,11,18,31,38,259,285–8675–76,79,81,134–36,169,172,282–83LosAngelesRaiders,122Morris,Jan,3LosAngeles-OrangeCounty-RiversideMetro-Morrow,Beneth,142politanStandardArea,5Mortenson,OfficerRon,247–48LosPrados(gatedcommunity),152–54Mosqueda,RaulLuis,247–48Louis,Joe,130,131MostHolyRedeemer,Shrineofthe,39Lowden,Sue,188MotelRegency,47Lumet,Sidney,210MountCharleston,31–32,65,98,135,162–64MountCharlestonHotel,163Mack,Michael,206Moya,Fernando,97,98,100Mack,Steve,204–208,210,212–13MTV,5Maheu,Robert,137Muellenberg,JudgeKurt,187Manning,Mary,140–41Multi-jurisdictionalCommunityEmpower-marriagerate,8mentCommission,121–22,125302b cIndexNAACP(NationalAssociationfortheOcchiogrosso,Gary,56–57AdvancementofColoredPeople),112,114,Occhiogrosso,Julia,52–53,56–57118,121,125,126Odor,PastorKevin,168,173–74,177Naples,FL,6O’Hare,Carole,213Natera,Josephina,101OklahomaCity,8;1995bombingof,266–67NationalAssociationofPawnbrokers,210OralRobertsUniversity,173NationalCoalitionAgainstLegalizedGam-OrangeCounty,CA,5bling,9,283Orlando,FL,6,7,246,252NationalGamblingImpactStudyCommission,“outcallentertainmentservices,”218–19.Seealso187,282prostitutionNationalFinalsRodeo,36,262NationalHeritageIndustries,104PacificSupplyCo.,103,104Neal,SenatorJoe,116,117,122,123,125,126Pahrump,NV,219–23,226–27,229NellisAirForceBase,2,10,14,31,77,119,161,PaintedDesert(gatedcommunity),152260,265Palmer,Jean,88NellisAirForceBombingandGunneryRange,14Palumbo,John,253–54Nelson,Peter,104–105Paradise(unincorporatedarea),3NevadaAssociationofLatinAmericans,Inc.,Pawnbroker,The,210101Pawnshops,201–15;chains:CashAmerica,207;NevadaBrothelAssociation,222EZPawn,203,207;SuperPawn,205–207,NevadaCollateralLoanAssociation,210212–13,214–15;growthof,207–209;individual:NevadaCouncilonProblemGambling,213AceLoans,203;BargainPawn,203,210,211,NevadaDepartmentofTransportation,20213;Bobby’sJewelryandLoan,203;Cash-4-NevadaDevelopmentAuthority,31,32U,206;DesertInnPawn,206;FirstClassNevadaGamingControlBoard,187,250PawnandJewelry,203;GoldandSilverPawnNevadaHighwayPatrol,221Shop,203;TheHockShop,203,211;John’sNevadaStateEthicsCommission,125Loans,201,213;PawnPlace,203,206;PioneerNevadastatelegislature,20,22LoanandJewelry,203,210;PoorRichard’s,NevadaResortAssociation,20–21,22,25,218203,206;SaharaPawn,206;Stoney’s,203,NevadaTestSite,157,260204;imageof,210–11;interestin,209–10;NewMexico,107,135,144securityof,211–12;stolengoodsfrom,210–11NewYork,NY,7PeopleofChance:GamblinginAmericanSocietyNewTownandTavern,114,116fromColonialTimestoLasVegas(Findlay),281Newman,Barnett,287Perry,PastorBob,173Newton,Roxie,116,129Peterson,PoliceChiefWayne,249Newton,Wayne,25,38,91,159Phoenix,AZ,8,9,27,139,141,144,289NLRB.SeeU.S.NationalLaborRelationsPinchot,Gifford,268Boardplanning(orlackof),11–14,33–34,123,157,161,NorthLasVegas,NV,2,12,102,104,106,109,284115,159,203,248,260politics,local,19–20,33,125–26;national,22,nucleartesting,271200;state,20–21,188–89nuclearwaste.SeeYuccaMountainpollution,air,6,34,165–66.Seewater,pollutionofNucleusBusinessPlaza,117,118,119,121populationgrowth,1,5–6,14,24,33–34,106–107,nudeclubs,226,235–41;customersof,236,110,134,148–49,151,165,289237–79,241;feesandincomeof,241;individ-Portland,OR,14,18ual:DejaVu(chain),235,238;LittleDarlings,Portman,John,285235–41;Palomino,235Poughkeepsie,NY,16,17NyeCounty,NV,3,145,222;cattleranchersof,Powlack,Michael,44,47260-80PrecisionConcrete,197Preddy,SarannKnight,115,130,131O.Henry(WilliamSydneyPorter),58pregnancy,teen,6,76,79,83,88–90O’Bryant,Kerry,172–73,174,176Presley,Elvis,38O’Callaghan,GovernorMike,17PrimadonnaCorp.,189303b cIndexPringle,BruceandKathy,161SanDiego,CA,9prostitution,25,83,218–30;AIDStesting,220,SanFrancisco,CA,29,38–39,262225SanPedro,LosAngeles,andSaltLakeRail-PrudentialSouthwestRealty,154road,135Pulsipher,Alan,85Sanchez,José,47,49–51publichousing,123Sanchez,Marie,23Pulawa,“Nappy,”250Sanders,Thomas,119SantaFe,NM,9,139Quinlan,Becky,281SAT(ScholasticAptitudeTest)scores,8,35,92Sawyer,GovernorGrant,251race:integration,129,261;prejudiceandtension,schoolbonds,12878,192,196;segregation,114–15schools,24,35,110,119,127–29,288RainbowCanyon,164Schumacher,Geoff,161Ralston,Jon,17,123Schwer,Keith,165Ramirez,Luis(laborer),97,101–102,104–106Scott,Cathy,248,249Ramirez,Luis(restaurantowner),99,100Scott,ReverandJesse,118RanchoHighSchool,89ScottBrown,Denise,4realestate.SeehomesalesScouts,BoyandGirl,31RealEstateBook,The155SecondBaptistChurch,112RedRockCanyon,14,31,157“secondstraw”(waterpipeline),14,142–43redlining,114,117securityforces,private,22,251–55,256Reedfamily(ranchers),271Selby,Susan,139Reed,Barbara,147–88passimseniors,seniorcitizens.SeeelderlyReisner,Marc,144ServiceWorkersInternationalUnion(SEIU),RE/MAX(realtychain),147,162191–92RescueMission,45,51,56SevenHills(master-plannedcommunity),151,ResortCityintheSunbelt(Moehring),281159retirement,29,65,149sexindustry,25,78,87,217–41.Seealsobrothels;Rey,Lucy,8nudeclubs;“outcallentertainmentservices”;Reyes,Susana,99,100prostitution;toplessclubsReynolds,Frank,117,123,125Shakur,Tupak,27,249Reynolds,Kristin,175ShadeTree(women’sshelter),42,51,53Richardson,Chester,121,124,125,129Sheldon,Bruce,249riots,RodneyKing(1992),LasVegas,117–21,Sherlock,William,189122,123,124;LosAngeles,118,119Shire,Talia,162Rippie,Trish,266shopping,2;stripmalls,2,148–49RiversideCounty,CA,5Siegel,Ben(Bugsy),38,244,258Rochester,NY,16Siegfried[Fischbacker]andRoy[Horn],36,38,Rodman,Dennis,17777,287RogerandMe,16SilverBowl.SeeSamBoydStadiumRoosevelt,PresidentFranklinD.,272Simpson,PoliceLieutenantBrad,249Rose,I.Nelson,66SinaloenseClub,77Ruddock,Razor,257Sinatra,Frank,38Rudicil,Jim,196,197,199SittingBull,58Ruffin,Phil,183SilverSaddle,61Smith,Allie,141“SagebrushRebellion,”261Smith,Dennis,166St.Christopher’sChurch,106Smith,JohnL.,17–18,21St.Vincent’sPlaza,41,42,44–45,46,48,56,Smith,JudgeLoren,27959–60,62Smith,Mark,34,197SaltLakeCity,UT,283Smith,Roger,16SalvationArmy,41–42,45,51,53–56,59,61,62Smith,Sam,125SamBoydStadium,11smoking,6304b cIndexSoja,Edward,285–86trafficcongestion,34Soltelo,JuanandBernice,97–98,100Tucson,AZ,9,27,139,141SonoranDesert(AZ),141Turner,Carol,90–91SouthernNevadaHomebuildersAssociation,Twain,Mark(SamuelClemens),5821,195,19724-hourwayoflife,29,84,288SouthernNevadaSchoolofRealEstate,Tyson,Mike,25,91,159,249,257,266159,166SouthernNevadaWaterDistrict,134,138,139,U.S.Bank,126141–42,143,144U.S.BureauofLandManagement(BLM),18,SpanishTrail(gatedcommunity),152,159,162150,157,161–62,166,262–64,266,268–70,Spilotro,Tony“theAnt,”245272–74,276,280sports,professional,289U.S.CensusBureau,3,107SpringMountain,163U.S.DepartmentofEnergy(DOE),260SpringValley(unincorporatedarea),3U.S.DepartmentofHousingandUrbanDevel-Starr,Irving,201opment(HUD),123,126,131Steiger,Rod,210U.S.DepartmentoftheInterior,269Stern,Howard,177U.S.DepartmentofJustice,187Stogner,Bob,210,211U.S.DrugEnforcementAgency,251StormOverRangelands:PrivateRightsonFed-U.S.EnvironmentalProtectionAgency(EPA),eralLands(Hage),278138Stroh,Michael,281–82U.S.FederalBureauofInvestigation(FBI),7,subdivisions.Seehousing,orbyindividualname246;UniformCrimeReports,7,248suicide,6,83,85,95–96U.S.ForestService,263–64,266,270,278–79Summerlin(master-plannedcommunity),9,11,U.S.GeologicalSurvey(USGS),13813,31,151,157–61,237,289U.S.Government,hostilitytowards.SeeSunCity/MacDonaldRanch,65antifederalismSunCity/Summerlin,32,65,69,158U.S.ImmigrationandNaturalizationServiceSunbelt,6,24,285,286,288(INS),103SunriseManor(unincorporatedarea),3U.S.NationalLaborRelationsBoard(NLRB),SunriseMountain,161183,191,199swapmeets,101,106U.S.VeteransAdministration(VA),124Sweeney,Ben,186unemployment,110Sweeney,John,185,197,200unions,labor,22,23,24,181–200;buildingtradesSwinney,Mark,269–70,272,274of,192–99;membershipin,185.SeealsonamesSwitzer,Steven,42,43ofindividualunionsUnitedCattleandPackingCo.,271,276–77Tarkanian,Jerry,38,282UniversityofNevadaatLasVegas(UNLV),23,TaylorGrazingAct(1934),268,277,27927,31,80,99,138,141,145,201,217,251,282,tax,13,28–29;gambling,federal(proposed),261;287,288–89;CenterforBusinessandEco-gambling,state,28;income,state,28;prop-nomicResearchof,165erty,county,8;sales,county,22,29,142UniversityofNevadaatReno(UNR),122,263,Teamsters’PensionFund,244275teenagers,6,8,22–23,24,75–96,177urbantheory,285–86Texas,107Utah,135,144Thomason,PastorSteve,175–76Thompson,Dennis,119Valdez,Tony,194,197–98Thompson,HunterS.,287Valenzuela,Marta,52ToiyabeNationalForest,266Vaughan,Sarah,116Tonopah,NV,264–65,268,270Venice,Italy,4toplessclubsanddancers,226,230–35;Chee-Venturi,Robert,4,5,9,283tah’s,231–32,CrazyHorse,230–31,CrazyVictoryChristianChurch,173HorseToo,232–34,WildJ’s,219;customersviolence,83,118–19of,234,239;feesandincomeof,231,234VirginRiver,144–45305b cIndexVitalie,Louis,43WildandFree-RoamingHorsesandBurrosVivaLasVegas(Hess),283Act(1971),272,273Von’ssupermarket,121,129Wilhelm,John,185,187Williams,Dan,253WagnerAct(1935),191Williams,CommissionerMyrna,30–31Wallace,T.L.,142Willis,Ray,128Walsh,BishopDaniel,29,38–39,170WillowGroveChurch(IL),170Washington,D.C.,8,15Wilson,Donna,191water,bankingof,143–44;politicsof,143–45;Winchester(unincorporatedarea),3pollutionof,137–39;ratesof,142;supplyof,14,“WiseUse”movement,264,267,27724,35,133–45;undergroundsourcesof,134–35,WizardofOz,The188136,137,145;useandconservationof,8–9,35,Wolfe,Jim,264133,139–42,143,158;wastewater,137–39,140.Wolfe,Tom,287SeealsoColoradoRiver;LakeMeadWorld,Heather,22Water:AHistoryofLasVegas(JonesandWorldWarII,260,261Cahlan),135Wright,Charley,263,274weather,27–28Wynn,Steve,13,18,20,21,25,32–33,38,121,136,Webb,Del,38140,172;andElaineWynn,38Weiner,Valerie,188Wyoming,135,144Weisman,Eric,91–95Weisman,SteveandLisa,149–50xeriscapes,141WestPalmBeach,FL,166WestSide(orWestside),2,109–31Young,Brigham,37,75,134WestsideActionAllianceKorp—UpliftingYoung,Dave,266People(“WAAKUP”),128,129YuccaMountain,NV(proposednuclearwasteWhelchel,Mark,170,177depository),261Whitacker,Terry,43,60WhitePineCounty,NV,145Zane,Leonard,282,288wildhorses,268,269,272,273Zunino,Jack,158306b
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