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1、COUNTRYDRIVING614R_pre.inddi02/12/200909:54ithereArestillemPtyroADsinChinA,esPeCiAllyonthewesternsteppes,wherethehighwaystothehimalayascarrylittletrafficotherthandustandwind.eventheboomtownsofthecoasthavetheirshareofvacantstreets.theyleadtohalf-builtfactorydistrictsan
2、dplannedapartmentcomplexes;theywindthroughterracedfieldsthataredestinedtobecomethesuburbsoftomorrow.theyconnectvillageswhoseresidentstraveledbyfootlessthanagenerationago.itwasthethoughtofallthatfleetingopenspace—thenewroadstooldplaces,thelandscapesonthevergeofchange—t
3、hatfinallyinspiredmetogetaChinesedriver’slicense.Bythesummerof2001,wheniappliedtotheBeijingPublicsafetytrafficBureau,ihadlivedinChinaforfiveyears.Duringthattimeihadtraveledpassivelybybusandplane,boatandtrain;idozedacrossprov-incesandsleptthroughtowns.Butsittingbehindt
4、hewheelwokemeup.thatwashappeningeverywhere:inBeijingalone,almostathousandnewdriversregisteredonaverageeachday,thepioneersofanation-wideautoboom.mostofthemcamefromthegrowingmiddleclass,forwhomacarrepresentedmobility,prosperity,modernity.forme,itmeantadventure.thequesti
5、onsofthewrittendriver’sexamsuggestedaworldwherenothingcouldbetakenforgranted:223.Ifyoucometoaroadthathasbeenflooded,youshoulda)accelerate,sothemotordoesn’tflood.b)stop,examinethewatertomakesureit’sshallow,anddriveacrossslowly.c)findapedestrianandmakehimcrossaheadofyou
6、.CountryDrv_i_xiii_1_440.indd510/23/091:32:40PM6
7、PeterHessler282.Whenapproachingarailroadcrossing,youshoulda)accelerateandcross.b)accelerateonlyifyouseeatrainapproaching.c)slowdownandmakesureit’ssafebeforecrossing.Chineseapplicantsforalicensewererequiredtohaveamedical
8、checkup,takethewrittenexam,enrollinatechnicalcourse,andthencompleteatwo-daydrivingtest;buttheprocesshadbeenpareddownforpeoplewhoalreadyheldoverseascertification.itooktheforeigner’stestonagray,muggymorning,theskydrapedlowoverthecitylikeashroudofwetsilk.theexaminerwasin
9、hisforties,andheworewhitecottondrivinggloves,thefingersstainedbyredPagodamountaincigarettes.helitoneupassoonasienteredtheaut
