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1、珠宝首饰的佩戴与保养主要内容首饰的款式流行趋势首饰的搭配首饰的保养国外DuringthereignofEngland’sQueenVictoria,avarietyofdistinctstyleswaspopular–includingsentimental,romantic,mourning,andornatematchingsetsofgemstonejewelry.Cameoswerecustomary.SomeVictorianjewelryidealizedpastcultures,andwasinspiredbyancientAssyrian,Greek,
2、Etruscan,Roman,Egyptian,Gothic,andRenaissancethemes.Thiswoven-goldsnakebraceletisfromtheVictorianera.(PhotobyTinoHammid.)Victorian,1837-1901ArtNouveau,1890-1914Frenchfor“newart,”ArtNouveauwasaradicaldeparturefromhistoricrevivalstyles.Inspiredbythenaturalworld,itwascharacterizedbyimagina
3、tiveandsinuousartisticexpressions.Flowers,animals,butterflies,andinsectswerecommon,alongwithfantasyfigures,suchasfairiesandmermaids.Themesofwomenbeingtransformedintoexoticcreaturesprevailed,characterizingthebeginningofwomen’sliberation.ActressSarahBernhardtwasapatronofArtNouveau.Here,an
4、ArtNouveaudragonflybroochismadeofplique-a-jourenamel,withopalsandsilver. (PhotobyRobertWeldon.)Edwardian,1900-1915Alsoknownasthe“Garland”style,Edwardianjewelrytypicallyfeaturedgarlandsofflowerstiedwithribbonsandbows.Itwasluxuriouslyflauntedamongtheaffluenttopurposelydisplaywealth.Promin
5、entsocietywomen,suchasPrincessAlexandraofWales,worejewelryinthisdecorativefashion,derivedfrom18thcenturyornamentation.Platinumoftenreplacedsilver.Thegreateravailabilityofdiamondsallowedforimprovementsinfaceting,placingnewemphasisongemquality.Phenomenalgemstones–opals,moonstones,andalexa
6、ndrites–werefavored,alongwithexceptionallyfinesapphires,emeralds,rubiesanddiamonds.RareandexpensivefancycoloreddiamondsinplatinummountingsofexceptionalworkmanshipdistinguishedtheEdwardiantheme.ThisTiffanycorsagebow,madeofplatinum,gold,anddiamonds,waswornduringtheEdwardianera.(PhotobyTin
7、oHammid.)ArtDeco,1920sand30sEmergingafterWorldWarI,ArtDecojewelrydemonstratedastrongreactionagainsttheetherealsensualityofArtNouveauandthedelicateeleganceoftheGarlandstyle.Stronggeometricpatternsinbold,contrastingcolorsreflectedpost-warpragmatism.Abstractfeaturesinsleek,streaml
