20111222——the debonair is in the detail

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1、欧洲男士如何穿礼服？ThedebonairisinthedetailFewthingsmarkthistimeofyearasmuchashordesofblacktie-cladmenhailingcabsatcocktailhour.Oncereservedforaristocraticdinnersandstatebanquets,blacktienowappearsoninvitationseverywhere.Agoodthing,youmightthink,sincethetuxedocanbeagreatleveller,theeasiestwayformentod

2、ressup–buttrytoindividualiseit,andyouruntheriskoflookinglessJamesBond,moreAustinPowers.如今的标志性事件莫过于看到成群结队身系黑领结、衣冠楚楚的男士们在赴宴高峰时段招手打出租车。黑领结过去是参加贵族晚宴与国宴时专用，如今在各种邀请会上已经司空见惯。你或许觉得这是件好事，因为燕尾服(tuxedo)现在人人都能穿，也是男士最不费事的正装——但一旦穿得个性十足，反而会弄巧成拙，看上去不似衣冠楚楚的《007》中詹姆斯•邦德(JamesBond)的形象，而更似《王牌大贱谍》中的邪恶博士奥斯汀•鲍沃斯(Au

3、stinPowers)。“Eventhoughyou’vehadtheinvitationforweeks,ablack-tieeventalwayscatchesyoubysurprisesomehow,”saysCityofLondonanalystRobertShaw.“Iusuallyendupgoingforthesafestoptionatthelastminute.Youdon’twanttostandoutliketheguysinthejazzycummerbundanddickiebowsets–andyouarenevergoingtocompetewith

4、theguyinhisfather’ssecond-handSavileRowtuxandantiqueshirtstuds–sostraightdownthemiddlealwaysseemsbest.”“即便收到邀请函已经有好几周时间，但能系着黑领结出席正式宴会毕竟是件惊喜事，”伦敦金融城(CityofLondon)的分析师罗伯特•肖(RobertShaw)说。“到头来我往往还是采取最稳妥的着装方式，谁都不希望自己系着花哨腰带与蝶形领结(dickiebow)，成为众目睽睽的对象——看到别人穿着老爸在萨维尔街定做的晚礼服（已穿过）与仿古式衬衣饰纽(shirtstuds)，无论怎

5、么比都是落于下风——所以嘛，中规中矩地着装看来最为妥当。”AccordingtoJonathanSwartland,suitbuyeratMarksandSpencer,there’sanewmoodofsmartdressing.Hesays:“Idon’tknowwhethertherearemoreformalfunctionsnowbutmenarecertainlymakingmoreofanefforttodressupwhentheydogotosuchevents.”据玛莎百货(MarksandSpencer)西服部主管乔纳森•斯沃特兰(JonathanSwart

6、land)说，如今身着体面装束又开始盛行。他说：“我不知道如今正式场合是否越来越多，但很明显，男士们参加这种宴会时，肯定千方百计让自己穿得像模像样。”StaceySmith,men’swearbuyeratMatches,agrees:“Wehavedefinitelyhadasurgeintailoringsales,andtheeveningsuithasbeenabigpartofthis,”shenotes.时装精品店Matches男装部主管斯特茜•史密斯(StaceySmith)也赞同这种说法：“我们的成衣销售出现了大幅飚升，其中晚礼服就占了相当部分，”However,

7、aquickpollofexpertsrevealsasurprisinglackofconsensusaboutwhatmodernblacktiereallymeans.她说。但对专家进行的快速问卷调查表明：现代社会系黑领结到底代表什么，却是众说纷纭。“Ithinkthatclassicistheonlywaytowearblacktie,”saysdesignerTomFord.“Ilovewearingblacktieandusuallyendupattendingabl