闻香识酒：气味的重要性.doc

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1、闻香识酒：气味的重要性Afriendofminewhoworksintheretailwinebusinesssufferedtheworstfateimaginableforsomebodyinhistrade:Helosthissenseofsmell.Onedayhecamedownwithabadcold.Whenitfinallylifted,hecouldnolongerdistinguishbetweenaCabernetSauvignonandaSauvignonBlanc,orevenaCha

2、rdonnayfromaPinotNoir.Thearomasweregone.Morethanayearlater,they'veyettoreturn.一个在葡萄酒零售业工作的朋友遭遇了该行业从业者能想象到的最糟糕的命运：他失去了嗅觉。有一天他得了重感冒。病情最终好转以后，他却再也分不清赤霞珠(CabernetSauvignon)和长相思(SauvignonBlanc)，甚至连霞多丽(Chardonnay)和黑皮诺(PinotNoir)都分不出来。酒的芳香闻不到了。一年多以后也没恢复。Whilemyfrie

3、ndcannowdetectafewstrongsmells—suchasperfume,hair-coloringchemicalsandfish—hestillcan'tmakeoutthescentofawine.It'sanafflictionhe'smanagedtokeepasecretfrombothco-workersandcustomers.Whenmakingapresentationduringthetastingsanddinnersthatarepartofhisjob,heavoid

4、stalkingaboutaromasorflavors,andfocusesinsteadonthewine'shistoryandproduction.Sofar,nooneseemstohavenoticed.WhenheintroducedsomeNapaCabernetsatarecentdinner,hisrecitationdrewraves.现在我的朋友能闻出几种比较重的味道──比如香水、染发剂和鱼──但他仍然闻不到酒香。这是他一直瞒着同事和客户的一个痛苦的秘密。工作中，在品酒会和晚宴上做演示时

5、，他会避免谈到芳香或味道，而是重点介绍酒的历史和生产。目前为止似乎还没有人注意到。最近在某晚宴上介绍纳帕谷赤霞珠(NapaCabernets)时，他准备的台词引起了热议。Whatifthewineshadbeenfaultyorcorked,Iasked.Myfriendsaidthathehadpreparedforthatpossibilitybyhavingsomeonetasteeverywinebeforeitwasserved.Buthewasgrowingincreasinglydesperate

6、.He'dtriedacupuncture,herbsandvariousmedications.He'dconsultedseveraldoctors,includingneurologists.Nothinghadworked.Ithaslefthimunabletoappreciatevirtuallyanythingaboutwine—andquitedepressed.我问他，如果那些酒有问题或者有木塞味儿怎么办。我的朋友说，这点他做好了准备，他请人在每瓶酒上桌前进行了品尝。但他越来越绝望了。他试过针

7、灸、草药和各种不同的药物治疗。他看过很多医生，包括神经科医生，但没有任何效果。这让他无法鉴别葡萄酒的几乎任何东西──也让他相当沮丧。Asaprofessionalwinejournalist,Iviewmyfriend'sstorywithequalpartssadnessanddread.WhatifIweretowakeuponemorninginthesamesituation?Althoughwetalkofthe'flavor'ofwineorfood,almosteverythingthatweta

8、steisactuallywhatwesmell.Aromaisnearlyeverythinginawine.作为专业葡萄酒记者，我在同情我朋友遭遇的同时，也感到害怕。假如我某天早晨醒来也出现同样的状况怎么办？虽然我们总是说葡萄酒或食物的“味道”，但我们尝到的几乎所有东西实际上都是我们闻到的气味。气味几乎是葡萄酒的全部。ItoldmyfriendI'dtrytohelp.SoIdid